I think there is a way to test the injectors. Do you have a multimeter?

 

I got the problem solved. Any news on those sceenshots of EU setup?

 

Updated. See original post.

 

Hey Joe, Thank you for the screen shots. I really messed up on how to wire last time. I figured it out why it wasn't working for me. I had all the wire crossed. I had ecu wire going as OUT from EU and coil & injector wires going as IN in EU. Car started up just fine. I haven't really did any adjustment on it yet but just curious have you tried the 2 step on EU yet?

 

I don't know if I can use the 2-step. I always thought that the 5.5gens don't have a VSS, but apparently they do, according to the ECU schematics. If someone can chime in here, that would be great.

I know the car uses the ABS system to get wheel speed, but maybe the ECU converts it to a VSS pulse?

 

5.5 Gen 2 Step video

 

Hey joe can you send me your EU file so I can look it up and see what else you did with yours?

 

Yeah I can do that. And BTW, 2 STEP WORKS! You were correct about pin 68 on the ECU. It certainly is a VSS pulse. Set the vehicle speed pulse to 8 in the parameter settings and you're good to go.

 

I did the 2 step and yes it worked but... Cruise Control stops working lol

 

Mine still works. Did you tap the VSS wire or splice it. You're supposed to tap it.

 

Nah I didn't tap it I spliced it. See it has IN and OUT. So my smart *** thought you have splice it. But I'll check that out today.

 

Hey joe did you know how to control the close loop?
Here is how my runs. So I'm cruising down the street and my wideband shows I'm doing 14.7-15.2. As soon as I let go of the gas pedal it runs 13.2-13.7. How do you adjust that?

 

What RPM are you hitting 13.2-13.7 at 0% throttle?

 

Yeah at 0% throttle.

 

So if you're at 4000 rpm in 2nd gear, and you just let off the gas, the AFR stays at 13?

That's not right. There's no way to adjust that, and the car is supposed to cut fuel during engine braking.

 

Read the question. If you're below 2000 RPM or so then the ECU will takeover and dip to 13.x AFR or even richer to prevent the engine from stalling. However, anywhere above that the AFR should go all the way lean since the stock ECU is cutting fuel on deceleration.

 

I didn't had problems when I had VAFCII plugged in. And I've been having problem with my TEMP guage and I don't have my Jumper13 set open. It so weird it stays at second line and every time I floor it damn temp guage gets even down. Any help on this??

 

I totally disconnected my water temp gauge from the E-Manage. I explained what I did in the first post of the thread. I was having the same problem; my car would never get to full operating temperature.

 

Is that good or bad?? Does ECU recognize the temperature and act differently? I mean if it matters then I would like it to be where its at LMAO.

 

The E-Manage causes the ECU to think the temperature is lower than it really is. This prevents the fans from turning on when they should, causing the coolant temperature to be higher than it's supposed to be.

Don't change the jumper if you have a 5.5gen, as this caused my E-Manage to blow. Just disconnect the wire from the E-Manage.

 

Hey Joe, Can you tell me how to raise the rev limiter. Yes, I know that without any internal work on the engine it can cause damage. Just trying to raise it till 7200 not much.

 

I was messing with this today.

I noticed that I could not raise the limiter when the injector map was set to "Duty Cycle" but I could when it was set to "Duration".

The problem here is that Auto tune no longer works when you switch the injector map to duration, and the conversion doesnt work properly, so I have to tune everything manually.

I might just say F the extended rev limit...

I don't think I'm making much power up top anyway. If I had cams or a SSIM then it would be another story.

 

Well today I recieve two items that should solves it. I ordered a netbook with car charger and SSIM is getting delivered. I'll have fun tunning this thing. I got AEM UEGO as the wideband and it's not calibrated right with the EU so EU doesn't tune right. I might have to stay away from the auto tune. RLC feature in EU I think that is what I have to use to get pass the stock limit. I'll mess around with it today.

 

I'm pretty sure that the rev limit cut feature won't work. You just need to add fuel exactly when the stock fuel cut hits. It's a PITA and I don't like how it works. I might go with the technosquare L spec to raise the rev limit.

 

Whats the latest guys? You still up and running with no problems/fried coils?

 

no coil fried yet.. just can't seem to figure out how to raise that damn rev limiter

 

thats good new. Im currently working on my PnP harness (my only one, i'm not making more) and would like to get some basemaps from you and UnkleJoe. Just enough to get the car running/driveable. I dont plan on gettin a wideband, i'll jsut use that money towards dyno time/tuning.

 

Mind if I ask why?

 

because once I get tuned...why would I need it again?

but with that said, if I can find a decent price on one (~$100) i'll just get it. I guess it'd be best for the auto-tune function.

 

getting the wideband helps you best because if you decide to put more bolt on's you going to have to go back and dyno again.

 

i already have every bolt-on available, the only thing i lack is a larger MAF which cant go on until a tune.

With that said, I do have a wideband on the way. I guess its go big or go home, its not too easy on the wallet though.

 

list of bolt-ons

 

Cattman gen 3 headers, Fastcat, 3" Cattman exhaust, SSIM (to be installed when i get the emanage hooked up), NWP spacers, NWP blockoff plate, JWT popcharger. Thats all I can think of as far as the motor goes.

 

Good info here. Subscribing.

 

So I see yal got the e-manage to wrk...that's what's up

 

Hey does any one have the pdf from this link? E-mail it to me plz.

http://www.cflriders.com/altima/04AltimaEU.pdf

It doesn't seem to be working anymore. It would be much appreciated. Thanks

 

I can't find it anymore either

That is a very important part of this install too.

I will keep searching to see if I can find it.

 

Wow, this is a really old thread, but I need a few answers if someone can help me out. For reasons I don;t want to get into right now, I swapped out my greddy blue for an ultimate. There are a few questions that I need to ask because some of the details are vague.

It was mentioned that to fool the temperature signal "I connected the AIRFLOW VOLTAGE OUT of the E-Manage to the WATER TEMP IN on the E-Manage."

How was this done?

Secondly, does anyone here know how to get the ZT-2 from zeitronix to send the signal to the ultimate?

Thanks ahead of time for all the help!

 

Anyone know where to get the greddy switch for the two step function? Or can you use a standard 1/8 audio plug?

 

Been a while but for what its worth, He explains it in his earlier posts. Bring the airflow voltage out to the the water temp in wire, both of these are on the EMU. Then you set the parameter to send a constant 1 volt to the water temp sensor and it fools the emu. Im in the process of wiring in my EMU now on my 4th Gen.. almost done.

How did you guys running Aem Uego hook up the A/F harness to it? Its one grey and one white wire. Dandys write up says get the signal and ground from the O2 sensor but not sure from the sensor itself, the ECU, or which O2 sensor. Thanks to anyone that chimes in.