Emanage Ultimate on a 2002 5.5 Gen Review
09-06-2010, 01:29 AM
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Emanage Ultimate on a 2002 5.5 Gen Review
I purchased a used Emanage Ultimate a couple of weeks ago and I finally got everything installed and set up so I figured I should share my experience, as this is not a commonly used device for the 5.5 gen Maximas.
Install:
I used this guide to match up the pin locations to my ECU (the guide is for the 02-04 3.5 Altima, but it's the exact same ECU. Please remember that the pictures of the plugs are assuming that you are behind the plug, looking at the socket.
http://www.cflriders.com/altima/04AltimaEU.pdf
I used DandyMax's write up for some other useful information, but his guide was for the A32 and 2000-2001 A33, so I had to do certain things differently.
http://www.vqpower.com/images/howto/...xEUWriteup.pdf
My Emanage actually came with a plug and play harness for the 350z/G35 and 04+ Maxima, but this was not compatible with my ECU, so I had to cut and splice every wire individually. I used a combination of heat shrink tubing and silver bearing solder.
Important Notes:
Upon doing my first datalog, I noticed random spikes/dips of my ignition timing and RPM's and other RPM dependent functions. If I switch the RPM Input to "Ignition Coils" instead of "Crank Sensor", the RPM spikes went away, but the ignition timing spikes were still there (this is determined from the crank position sensor). After some research, I came to the conclusion that my crank sensor wire was getting some electromagnetic interference from the engine bay.
I thought that I could fix it by replacing the Crank sensor wire with a shielded audio cable that I had laying around. Well, this did not change anything. This ruled out interference as being the problem.
After some MORE research, I saw a post on here about how someone else was getting random ignition timing spikes and they fixed it by downgrading to FW version 1.14. I did that.
This did reduce/eliminate the random ignition timing spikes, but read on...
Fried Coil Anyone?:
After driving around for an entire day with the Emanage Ultimate hooked up, I pull into a parking lot and shut the car off. Once I get back in, I turn the key to the "ON" position and put my seatbelt on.
I start the car, and I notice that I am only running on five cylinders. I limp home and determine that my center/rear coil melted. Figures that it's one of the coils that you can't get to without taking the entire UIM off.
I replaced the coil with a coil from PepBoys for $70 with a lifetime warrenty.
My theory is that the coil got fried because I was running the older firmware version 1.14. I upgraded back to firmware version 2.20 and I haven't had a problem, and it's been two days.
This surprised me actually, as I figured that I protected myself by installing the diodes, but apparently not.
Just remember to never leave the key on the "ON" position for extended periods of time, as the small current leakage of the Emanage will heat up the coils and eventually kill them.
Timing Advance (Or Not):
Once I got everything situated, I decided to do some logs to see where my timing was at.
I tried adding some timing here and there, to bring my total curve average to around 24 degrees, approaching 28 as it gets closer to redline.
Well, I was able to add about 3 degrees until I noticed that for each extra degree that I added, the timing in that area ACTUALLY WENT DOWN. This was because the ECU was pulling timing because of "knock".
I was running 93 Octane gas and I was only at like 23-24 degrees of timing and I was getting knock. This can't be right because I've seen VQ30's run much higher timing (28-30 degrees) and the VQ35 is supposed to be less prone to knock.
It appears as if the 2002-2003 ECU is much more sensitive to knock input from the knock sensor.
I temporarily bypassed the knock sensor by putting a 470k Ohm resistor in its place and I was successfully able to advance my timing to around 25-26 in the low end (1000-4000rpm), 23-24 in the midrange(4000-5000, torque peak), and 27-28 in the high end (5000-6600).
I did advance it too far at one point and I was able to actually HEAR the knock so I immediately stopped and retarded some timing. It is extremely important if you are going to do this, to do all your pulls with the windows down so you can hear any potential knocking.
At this point, I am researching ways to reduce the sensitivity of the knock sensor. I am thinking about putting some sort of rubber bushing under it to muffle some of the noises that it "hears". I will report back with results. I don't really feel comfortable driving around with no knock sensor. If I can at least get SOME knock protection, that would be great.
AFR Tuning:
I am using an Innovate LC-1 wideband to monitor my air fuel ratio. I did not want to buy the Greddy Option port harness for $20, so I made my own. I used one of the old cables for the audio port of a CD ROM drive in a computer (not the ide cable, the 4 pin little audio cable). I grinded the connector down so it would fit. Remember that the ground is the pin closest to the option 2 port. The positive is the pin on the opposite side.
Here's some info on that(post 10):
http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/f...imate-faq.html
I set the AFR Target settings to activate above 41% throttle. I left the feedback cycle and amount alone.
The target AFR map is 12.9 everywhere.
I plan on leaving this on all the time, which I heard is bad but I don't care, as it gives me perfect 12.6-13.2 AFR's in every gear at every RPM.
Coolant Temp Problem:
I noticed that my car never quite heats all the way up. This causes the idle to remain high. I think this is due to JP13 being set to "1-2". I will switch this to "open" tomorrow and report back.
Blown E-Manage (October 2010 Update):
Well, I did the above (about switching the jumper setting for the coolant problem), and I fried my E-Manage! Within five minutes of the car running, after I switched the jumper, it stalled out and the E-Manage's green power LED would not come on. This is believed to be because when jumper 13 is set to open, it is expecting a knock sensor input, which is a lower voltage than a coolant temp sensor.
DO NOT RUN THE E-MANAGE WITH JP13 SET TO OPEN IF YOU HAVE A 5.5 GEN! In DandyMax's guide, it states to try switching the jumper settings if you are having problems with your coolant temperature reading correctly, which I was, but his guide is for the 4th and 5th gen Maxima, not the 5.5 gen , which has a different coolant temperature sensor.
I had to purchase another E-Manage unit. This time I did something different. Read on...
Tricking the E-Manage:
I needed a way for the E-Manage to think that the car was warmed up so that the Autotune feature would work, but I had no way to properly hook up the coolant temperature sensor from the car. If I hooked it up with JP13 set to 1-2, it interferes with the signal and causes the car to think that it is cooler than it is, and when I switched the jumper to OPEN, I fried the E-Manage.
So, I discovered that when fully warm, the car's temperature sensor sends out ~1.00 volts. I connected the AIRFLOW VOLTAGE OUT of the E-Manage to the WATER TEMP IN on the E-Manage. Then, I configured the E-Manage's airflow correction map to output a constant 1 volt signal at all RPM ranges. This is with JP13 set to 1-2.
I am basically using the E-Manage to send out a constant 1 volt signal to itself, to trick it into thinking that the car is always warm. Now I don't have to have my coolant temperature sensor connected to my E-Manage at all.
Firmware and Software Downloads:
http://www.3000gt.com.au/Files/EMU%20Firmware/
Screen Shots:
Parameter settings.
My ignition adjustment map. (Don't just copy mine, as every car responds differently to ignition advance)
Screen shot showing the airflow adjustment map and my AFR target map.
Install:
I used this guide to match up the pin locations to my ECU (the guide is for the 02-04 3.5 Altima, but it's the exact same ECU. Please remember that the pictures of the plugs are assuming that you are behind the plug, looking at the socket.
http://www.cflriders.com/altima/04AltimaEU.pdf
I used DandyMax's write up for some other useful information, but his guide was for the A32 and 2000-2001 A33, so I had to do certain things differently.
http://www.vqpower.com/images/howto/...xEUWriteup.pdf
My Emanage actually came with a plug and play harness for the 350z/G35 and 04+ Maxima, but this was not compatible with my ECU, so I had to cut and splice every wire individually. I used a combination of heat shrink tubing and silver bearing solder.
Important Notes:
- I added diodes (Radioshack rectifier diodes, the black ones) on the ignition output side of the Emanage, as it is rumored that the ignition drivers inside the Emanage leak small amounts of current, which triggers the ignition coil transistors to partially "turn on" the coils. This can fry the coils due to over heating. The voltage drop of the diodes is supposed to reduce the amount of current seepage from the ignition drivers of the Emanage. This was more common for the Emanage BLUE, but I figured that it wouldn't hurt to do it on the Emanage Ultimate also.
- As stated in DandyMax's guide, you have the choice of running either the coolant temp sensor and the intake temp sensor, or replacing one of the temp sensors with the knock sensor. Please note if you are going to use one of the inputs for a knock sensor, set the appropriate jumper to OPEN. Not doing so will send false knock signals to the ECU. You'll know if you are getting false knock because your car will pull about as hard as a moped.
- Please note, I was not able to get the knock sensor input to show anything, even on the newest firmware (as of September 2010) version 2.20.
- The autotune (AFR Target) feature will NOT work unless you have the coolant temperature sensor hooked up.
- You DO NOT need to have the crank sensor input hooked up in order to advance or retard the ignition timing, it is only there to be able to show you your real time ignition timing.
Upon doing my first datalog, I noticed random spikes/dips of my ignition timing and RPM's and other RPM dependent functions. If I switch the RPM Input to "Ignition Coils" instead of "Crank Sensor", the RPM spikes went away, but the ignition timing spikes were still there (this is determined from the crank position sensor). After some research, I came to the conclusion that my crank sensor wire was getting some electromagnetic interference from the engine bay.
I thought that I could fix it by replacing the Crank sensor wire with a shielded audio cable that I had laying around. Well, this did not change anything. This ruled out interference as being the problem.
After some MORE research, I saw a post on here about how someone else was getting random ignition timing spikes and they fixed it by downgrading to FW version 1.14. I did that.
This did reduce/eliminate the random ignition timing spikes, but read on...
Fried Coil Anyone?:
After driving around for an entire day with the Emanage Ultimate hooked up, I pull into a parking lot and shut the car off. Once I get back in, I turn the key to the "ON" position and put my seatbelt on.
I start the car, and I notice that I am only running on five cylinders. I limp home and determine that my center/rear coil melted. Figures that it's one of the coils that you can't get to without taking the entire UIM off.
I replaced the coil with a coil from PepBoys for $70 with a lifetime warrenty.
My theory is that the coil got fried because I was running the older firmware version 1.14. I upgraded back to firmware version 2.20 and I haven't had a problem, and it's been two days.
This surprised me actually, as I figured that I protected myself by installing the diodes, but apparently not.
Just remember to never leave the key on the "ON" position for extended periods of time, as the small current leakage of the Emanage will heat up the coils and eventually kill them.
Timing Advance (Or Not):
Once I got everything situated, I decided to do some logs to see where my timing was at.
I tried adding some timing here and there, to bring my total curve average to around 24 degrees, approaching 28 as it gets closer to redline.
Well, I was able to add about 3 degrees until I noticed that for each extra degree that I added, the timing in that area ACTUALLY WENT DOWN. This was because the ECU was pulling timing because of "knock".
I was running 93 Octane gas and I was only at like 23-24 degrees of timing and I was getting knock. This can't be right because I've seen VQ30's run much higher timing (28-30 degrees) and the VQ35 is supposed to be less prone to knock.
It appears as if the 2002-2003 ECU is much more sensitive to knock input from the knock sensor.
I temporarily bypassed the knock sensor by putting a 470k Ohm resistor in its place and I was successfully able to advance my timing to around 25-26 in the low end (1000-4000rpm), 23-24 in the midrange(4000-5000, torque peak), and 27-28 in the high end (5000-6600).
I did advance it too far at one point and I was able to actually HEAR the knock so I immediately stopped and retarded some timing. It is extremely important if you are going to do this, to do all your pulls with the windows down so you can hear any potential knocking.
At this point, I am researching ways to reduce the sensitivity of the knock sensor. I am thinking about putting some sort of rubber bushing under it to muffle some of the noises that it "hears". I will report back with results. I don't really feel comfortable driving around with no knock sensor. If I can at least get SOME knock protection, that would be great.
AFR Tuning:
I am using an Innovate LC-1 wideband to monitor my air fuel ratio. I did not want to buy the Greddy Option port harness for $20, so I made my own. I used one of the old cables for the audio port of a CD ROM drive in a computer (not the ide cable, the 4 pin little audio cable). I grinded the connector down so it would fit. Remember that the ground is the pin closest to the option 2 port. The positive is the pin on the opposite side.
Here's some info on that(post 10):
http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/f...imate-faq.html
I set the AFR Target settings to activate above 41% throttle. I left the feedback cycle and amount alone.
The target AFR map is 12.9 everywhere.
I plan on leaving this on all the time, which I heard is bad but I don't care, as it gives me perfect 12.6-13.2 AFR's in every gear at every RPM.
Coolant Temp Problem:
I noticed that my car never quite heats all the way up. This causes the idle to remain high. I think this is due to JP13 being set to "1-2". I will switch this to "open" tomorrow and report back.
Blown E-Manage (October 2010 Update):
Well, I did the above (about switching the jumper setting for the coolant problem), and I fried my E-Manage! Within five minutes of the car running, after I switched the jumper, it stalled out and the E-Manage's green power LED would not come on. This is believed to be because when jumper 13 is set to open, it is expecting a knock sensor input, which is a lower voltage than a coolant temp sensor.
DO NOT RUN THE E-MANAGE WITH JP13 SET TO OPEN IF YOU HAVE A 5.5 GEN! In DandyMax's guide, it states to try switching the jumper settings if you are having problems with your coolant temperature reading correctly, which I was, but his guide is for the 4th and 5th gen Maxima, not the 5.5 gen , which has a different coolant temperature sensor.
I had to purchase another E-Manage unit. This time I did something different. Read on...
Tricking the E-Manage:
I needed a way for the E-Manage to think that the car was warmed up so that the Autotune feature would work, but I had no way to properly hook up the coolant temperature sensor from the car. If I hooked it up with JP13 set to 1-2, it interferes with the signal and causes the car to think that it is cooler than it is, and when I switched the jumper to OPEN, I fried the E-Manage.
So, I discovered that when fully warm, the car's temperature sensor sends out ~1.00 volts. I connected the AIRFLOW VOLTAGE OUT of the E-Manage to the WATER TEMP IN on the E-Manage. Then, I configured the E-Manage's airflow correction map to output a constant 1 volt signal at all RPM ranges. This is with JP13 set to 1-2.
I am basically using the E-Manage to send out a constant 1 volt signal to itself, to trick it into thinking that the car is always warm. Now I don't have to have my coolant temperature sensor connected to my E-Manage at all.
Firmware and Software Downloads:
http://www.3000gt.com.au/Files/EMU%20Firmware/
Screen Shots:
Parameter settings.
My ignition adjustment map. (Don't just copy mine, as every car responds differently to ignition advance)
Screen shot showing the airflow adjustment map and my AFR target map.
Last edited by Unklejoe; 10-07-2010 at 11:58 PM.
09-06-2010, 10:02 AM
#6
09-06-2010, 10:44 AM
#7
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Thanks guys. I can finally relax and focus on school now that this is done.
It's really not that hard to wire it yourself. And also, you may want to wire some things differently than how they are on the harness.
It's really not that hard to wire it yourself. And also, you may want to wire some things differently than how they are on the harness.
09-06-2010, 12:01 PM
#10
Thats what greddy says. For 95-01 maximas, the resistors are only used to prevent a CEL from popping up but is not needed for normal operation.
09-09-2010, 03:11 PM
#13
To the OP. Can you check this for me and make sure I got the pinout right. I'm going to install it tomorrow.
I am kind of curious about the Injector Ground wire. I think I have it wrong.
I am kind of curious about the Injector Ground wire. I think I have it wrong.
Last edited by tedo007; 10-09-2010 at 04:34 AM.
09-10-2010, 12:09 AM
#14
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A few corrections have to be made. (ASSUMING YOU HAVE A 5.5 GEN)
Pins 13 and 14 on the Emanage "B" harness do not connect to anything. The MAF is actually connected to pin 15 and the connection is a TAP, as you won't be using the MAF to tune like you would be with a VAFC. You will tune by altering the injector pulse width.
Pin 21 doesn't connect to anything. Pin 23 doesn't need to be connected either because the Emanage can get the RPM signal from either the crank position or the actual ignition timing (this can be set with the software).
I would also wait before connecting pin 32. I have more experimenting to do and I don't want you to fry your Emanage like I did.
Pin 38 should be tapped of pin 66 on the ECU.
Pins 39,40, and 41 should all be disconnected.
There also seems to be some confusion on the wiring of the ignition/injector siring methods. These wires are all going to be spliced. The injector and ignition INPUTS on the Emanage should be connected to the ECU. The outputs on the Emanage get connected to the coils/injectors.
Follow the following order:
ECU---------Injector/Coil INPUT on Emanage ------EMANAGE UNIT-------
Injector/Coil OUTPUT on Emanage--------Coils/Injectors
I used this guide for mine.
http://www.cflriders.com/altima/04AltimaEU.pdf
If you don't have a 2002-2003 Maxima, the wiring may be different so do take the time to double check everything.
And 5.5 gen Maximas do not have a vehicle speed sensor.
Pins 13 and 14 on the Emanage "B" harness do not connect to anything. The MAF is actually connected to pin 15 and the connection is a TAP, as you won't be using the MAF to tune like you would be with a VAFC. You will tune by altering the injector pulse width.
Pin 21 doesn't connect to anything. Pin 23 doesn't need to be connected either because the Emanage can get the RPM signal from either the crank position or the actual ignition timing (this can be set with the software).
I would also wait before connecting pin 32. I have more experimenting to do and I don't want you to fry your Emanage like I did.
Pin 38 should be tapped of pin 66 on the ECU.
Pins 39,40, and 41 should all be disconnected.
There also seems to be some confusion on the wiring of the ignition/injector siring methods. These wires are all going to be spliced. The injector and ignition INPUTS on the Emanage should be connected to the ECU. The outputs on the Emanage get connected to the coils/injectors.
Follow the following order:
ECU---------Injector/Coil INPUT on Emanage ------EMANAGE UNIT-------
Injector/Coil OUTPUT on Emanage--------Coils/Injectors
I used this guide for mine.
http://www.cflriders.com/altima/04AltimaEU.pdf
If you don't have a 2002-2003 Maxima, the wiring may be different so do take the time to double check everything.
And 5.5 gen Maximas do not have a vehicle speed sensor.
09-13-2010, 10:15 AM
#16
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I've worked out most, if not all of my issues and I will be updating this thread.
And yes, the 2002-2004 Altima ECU is the same as the 2002-2003 Maxima.
09-15-2010, 08:38 PM
#19
09-27-2010, 09:21 AM
#20
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Posts: 14
i installed the emanage ultimate last night and my car also will not start.. y??? i do have a code that keeps coming up (check engine light) p0221 which is a throttle pos sensor. my laptop also logs thats my throttle position is above 4 when u press the gas like dandy max says it goes no where cureent low and high boxes are all above 4
09-27-2010, 09:35 AM
#21
i installed the emanage ultimate last night and my car also will not start.. y??? i do have a code that keeps coming up (check engine light) p0221 which is a throttle pos sensor. my laptop also logs thats my throttle position is above 4 when u press the gas like dandy max says it goes no where cureent low and high boxes are all above 4
09-27-2010, 10:56 AM
#23
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Sorry I haven't been around here much. Is the green light lit on the E-Manage when the key is on the ON position?
And for the most part, I followed DandyMax's jumper settings. They are mostly the same. I will tell you exactly which ones are set to what once I get home from school.
And for the most part, I followed DandyMax's jumper settings. They are mostly the same. I will tell you exactly which ones are set to what once I get home from school.
09-27-2010, 10:58 AM
#24
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I have my Innovate LC-1 feeding the signal right into the E-Manage's option 1 port. Autotune works great.
Does your car still not start?
09-29-2010, 02:37 AM
#28
I don't know about anybody but after I installed my EU couldn't get it started. Fried my crankshaft sensor and smoke started coming out of my engine. Took the EU out and put it back together factory setting and now my car is like all jerking. I'm not going to install EU going to look for some other tunning device.
09-29-2010, 08:25 AM
#29
your TPS may also be dead if you're getting erratic readings but the wiring is correct.
09-29-2010, 09:59 AM
#31
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and how do i get my 2step to work with out a vss also how do i make it so i can rev up to like 7800 instead of the stock like 6800. my car is turbo automatic(for now) and trying to get the best out of it
09-29-2010, 07:10 PM
#32
PLEASE DO NOT REV TO THAT RPM unless you motor is built for said RPM
09-30-2010, 11:57 PM
#33
Well not only did not start. Smoke started coming out of my engine so I unplug the battery wire and unplug all the wire and put it back to factory setting. Now I have a huge problem that I can't figure out. Car starts up but its like rumbling noise. Shakes and got a code for P0335 CRANKSHAFT SENSOR CERCUIT. I thought I blew my sensor so I replaced it another one and still no fix. I'm thinking it fried my ECU or something. I'm like really really really lost here.
10-01-2010, 11:59 PM
#36
10-02-2010, 02:04 AM
#37
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He is bull****ting to get his post count up. Your ECU is fine if the car runs. You probably miswired something involving the Crank Position Sensor. Check all your wiring and make sure it follows the guides posted.
10-03-2010, 12:36 AM
#39
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It could be an injector or a coil. Most likely a coil. There is nothing in the software settings that could cause this to happen, so it either has to be a wiring problem or you may have left the key on the ON position for too long. You still want me to upload the screen shots of my parameter settings?
10-04-2010, 11:15 PM
#40
It could be an injector or a coil. Most likely a coil. There is nothing in the software settings that could cause this to happen, so it either has to be a wiring problem or you may have left the key on the ON position for too long. You still want me to upload the screen shots of my parameter settings?