Hey I have a bit of a problem and Turboxs hasn't gotten back to me with anything.

I'm installing a UTEC that was already previously installed on a maxima, so going by 350Z connector stuff doesn't help me since it's all ripped off & I just have bundles of wires that weren't labeled properly.

All of my wires are labeled by the previous installer......... BUT he didn't label which ones were in vs out! Catch my drift? I've got 2 of each for all the intercept wires like the maf & all the coil/injectors but no way to know which one goes to the ecu side vs part.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the utec that I can use to identify which ones are in & out, I'd also like to double check everything anyways since I don't want to chance someone else's work. I looked pretty good on the web & can't find anything. Thanks

 

hmmm i dont think its one that i done.


Pics??




And far as in and out, you will just have to disassemble it a lil.

The ones going into the black ecu connector are the IN.

The ones coming out the back from 2 parts, the blue and black wires are the outs.

 

I don't beleive it's one you did.

The ones coming out the back from 2 parts, the blue and black wires are the outs.

haha, I almost asked that. That will have me all set then assuming the previous work is correct. I'll snap some pics, but have a question for you in the meantime.

Just read a recent post from sparks about not being able to scale the maf, so does that mean getting a bbmaf up & running won't be as simple as choosing in/out settings like with an safc?

Because my plan was to get this car up & running on the 0 map, but with a bbmaf, and then have someone tune the car on the dyno who is already familiar with utec. I'm doing this for someone else & wouldn't feel it appropriate to charge them money for my time to learn what I'm doing with utec, and I have no desire to learn what I'm doing on that aspect either so I wouldn't really want to do it just to learn. It needs to be done though, turbo 5.5 gen that max's out the maf in 3rd gear, the fmu needs to go

 

oh ok,


its easy to tell what wire is what, ( im talking about the blue and black ones) you will have to open up the utec, and they are soldred on the board in the exact pattern of the connector.


Im not sure on the maf i never changed my maf to a bigger one. But i believe if you make any changes , using map 0 wont use those changes you made, you will need to use map 1.

Why the customer want a utec? Im not sure on the build, but if i had some money in my motor/turbo setup id def run a haltech.

 

haha, after reading everyone's complaints on the utec I'm not really sure. I might just link him to this thread.

We also already have a uego, so from what I've read if he plans to stay with the utec we'll have to get a hold of one of there WB controllers, forget what it's called, kinda sucks hardcore not to be able to use a brand new uego that's already installed & sitting pretty next to the aem tru-boost, but I guess it's a moot point since I think I might tell him to ditch the EBC anyways, DSM guys swear they are nothing but trouble in any form, and we were having trouble, but I assumed it was because I had to cut a 14psi spring on the evolution wastegate because at the time we couldn't get a lower psi spring quick enough & 14psi was to much. I'll probably wait & see how it does with a proper spring in it though, the uego & truboost just look so sexy sitting on the top of the column, maybe we'll just add a second wbo2 into the exhaust, I have a few more from the quest motor now.

 

Hey, you talking about this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Halte...Q5fAccessories

Didn't see anything about overrev there though, another 500 rpm's would be nice since I did just do rodbolts, allthough I kinda only did them since I was taking the pan off anyways and rev-up bolts are like $30 and take 5 minutes with the pan already off, but another 500rpm's would def make a world of difference on this car.

I'm probably thinking to much, there shouldn't be any problems getting past fuel cut with that.

 

Thread Plug........

Let me know if he's interested in a brand new Haltech with the plugs and pins along with dual wideband sensors and controller.

btw, I also have a patch harness for the 5.5 that's brand new as well. Was going to splice in the Haltech into it. Plug, play, and go.

 

So looks like I am selling most of my tuning stuff. lol. SurraTT, I bought this UTEC a little while ago. I believe you and sparks started posting about the issues you were having after I bought it. I read reviews from the 350z guys and for the most part they love it. I had originally planned on going with an Emanage Blue. Plus, has anyone installed a Haltech on a Maxima? That was one of the biggest factors (and the price) of not going with one.
Are you installing Paramy's Haltech on your car?

 

What a shameless plug. lol. JK. How much are you looking to get for it? I am not saying I am definitely switching from the UTEC, just curious.

 

I've got it all wired in but have a no-start now, just cranks, no codes present.

I ran all the appropriate inputs per the diagram that floats around here, but since it's not really a diagram & I was using an already modified harness I may have mistakes. I used pin #95 for the crank sensor IIRC, that should be spot on. For all sensors asides from the maf I used the wires coming from the front of the utec. There is a bunch of sensor wires coming from the back of the utec that are 'outs' so those aren't connected, the only one that is is the Maf. Maf wire coming from back of utec goes to ecu, maf wire coming from maf goes to utec.

On the input side I had a wire labeled "ecm+ relay" but I didn't hook it up to the ecm+ relay pin, I jumped it to pin 110 along with the another + wire, I did however hook the wire (again, on in side of utec) for the ignition switch in it's proper location.

I didn't get a chance to verify any lights on on the utec, I know that sounds stupid but had been kneeling down wiring for awhile & decided it would be better to start fresh tommorrow. So I've got a bunch of stuff to check other than just seeing if it had any codes & calling it a day, but figured I would post up everything I could remember off the top of my head & see if anything jumped out. I'll rewire that ecm + relay wire & double check everything else tomorrow.

 

what do you mean their is a bunch of sensor wires coming from the back of the utec, that are the outs, so those aren't connected??


they need to be connected to the stock ECU. Otherwise the stock ecu will throw codes like crazy and probably wont start the motor.

 

The utec has power.

I have the outs connected for injectors, coils, and maf, (and crank, see later) and they connect to the harness (except for the maf), the in's for those items are connected to the ecu (except for the maf). Everything else I connected as a tap on the input side. EXACTLY like I would for an emu install basically. I did try intercepting the crank signal, made no difference.

I've got nothing on the tach, and no codes, let me run out there & see if I can hear the DBW. Still working on getting connected (allthough not sure what to look for) Do need to vent though, how the hell can they make a $1K EM and not include a damn program with a GUI & a hardware wizard. WTF, has me heated.

 

So I got hyperterminal running, still no start though but I might be on to something.

1st things first I can't datalog while cranking, is this normal? It just freezes & I have to hit the escape key to get back to the main menu, the 1st time I actually had to disconnect before it did anything.

TPS reads fine, between 2% to 100% & everywhere in between while stepping on the gas.

Maf reads 1.03v, if I disconnect the maf sensor under the hood it bounces around near 3.5v

IAT reads 10*, it's not connected to the utec.

OK, so I might be on to something, don't know how I missed this- I only have a wire labeled ECT on the OUT harness, it's missing on the IN harness, apparently I had that wired in as a tap on the OUT side. Noticed all this because the reading bounces constantly from "<5" to "115". I disconnected it on the 'out' side and it sits right at "<5"

Would the utec not start on map 0 without an ECT signal? I don't believe I have spark, had no assistant but peering through the windshield it didn't appear to have spark (My shop is lit with HID so I can't shut it off without waiting a bit to refire the lamp, geuss I'll ck that in the morning)

 

Also, are the pins on the UTEC connectors the same as the 350z? Meaning I can use the 350z pin-out to locate what the DPO did with the ect 'in' wire?

 

yessss sir utec is like tuning with a NES, haha seriousl they really have a gameboy to tune some utecs hahah


you probably arent able to datalog while cranking due to ecu/utec power not right, the utec is probably loosing power when you are cranking the motor over. I think thats your problem with it not running also, but i really have no idea how its wired up, sorry. It should crank up without a coolant temp sen but it IS NEEDED. far as on map 0 idk, its been shown that the utec still alters ecu signals on map 0.








is this a 5.5 gen ?




It wont be too much longer on a real tuning system for 5.5's That is PNP haltech. Do it right, do it 1 time. Ive learned that. Ive tried quite a few tuning devices. And wasted a TON TON of time and money.

 

Yup, 5.5 gen.

OK so after you're post I went back out and checked a few things, disregard the ect, it was tapped all along and I got confused. Not sure why it's reading wrong, now it's just sitting @ "<5"

So I thought I had it, but I geuss not. Middle diagram, 350Z pins 1, 115, & 116, they were snipped right up against the utec going nowhere when they should be grounded correct? I grounded them, same deal. I then made sure 350z pin's 109, 119, 120, 121 have 12v even during cranking, I ran them straight to battery, same deal- cranks all day, no start, no codes, no spark.

Whenever I try to datalog as soon as I crank it brings me to the first menu screen.


Tomorrow afternoon when I have a chance to hop back on it I'm taking it out, making sure it runs sans-utec, and ohming out all my connections. I'm leaning towards a bum connection on my part or a bad utec, we'll see, I would assume a bad connection on something vital would have thrown a code though Sure am glad everything is on bullet connectors though. Thanks again Daren.

 

Weird the coolant temp is reading wrong. You sure you have the right coolant temp wire on the maxima harness?? There is the coolant temp sensor, and then coolant temp sensor output to the gauge cluster.


pins 1 115 116 should be ECU grounds, Corresponding to pins 106 108 57 on 5.5 gen.


pin 109 is ign switch

119 120 are ECU power 110 112 on 5.5

and 121 is ecu backup power ( without looking i think it has 12v when the car is off, i cant remember)


This would be a perfect time to have a 5.5 gen patch harness........ If i didnt work unplug it and check all wiring inside of your house in the WARM. hmmmmmmm

 

If you PM me when it comes time, I can help walk you through getting it running good on map 1. The UTEC is very simple to tune with once you get your parameters right and understand the basic layout and especially when you have UTI and ME (jeffsoftware) to play with for data logging and autotune. In order to use the BBMAF, you will certainly be adding fuel in the 0 load column and all through the powerband otherwise. On map 0, the utec is not supposed to affect the stock ECU tune at all.

Although it can be a pain sometimes... It's a great tuning tool for cheap. It does the job.

 

Using maxima pin 93 for ect

Basically, going by this, MIDDLE PIC, if all those 350z pins (that you also mentioned above) in RED have 12v+, even if it was direct from the battery for testing purposes than I should have been good on that. I really think the utec is fried from not having the grounds (350z pins 1, 115, 116) not connected. I'll be taking it out to ohm out all my connections & triple check wiring so I'll pop the cover off at that point. I popped it apart when I first got it and everything appeared fine, supposedly it was running in someones car like this, but those ground wires couldn't have been snipped without popping off the little cover & replacing it. So if they did that during the uninstall yet labeled everything else that's a total **** move, either then or they never got it to run in the first place, which is still a **** move. I had a big bundle of grounds on the 'out' harness so I figured I was good, never thought there would be hidden ground wires snipped 1/4" from the connector & tucked under its cover.

 

Do you have a picture of it? It could be the UTEC that I had set up for wiring and never installed almost 2 years ago. It's been selling back and forth across the forums ever since.

 

Not sure the patch harness will be much help now lol

 

Yeah thats kinda what i was thinking, but never know, i bet some ppl have cut quite a few up by now.


Haha its never to late!! hahah u gonna make urs PNP ! That what you can unplug at and get something else !! hhahah

 

I don't think it is.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...en-maxima.html

Yeah, it didn't come with the usb cable or 'wiring diagrams' that he mentions in the thread, and those ground wires sure weren't labeled.


I agree a patch harness would be nice and save a bit of time, but everything is hardwired via bullet connectors, even the taps, so it's not that bad to get it back to stock.

When I made the post about not being able to go by the 350z stuff I was unaware that the connector on the utec also emulated the 350z connector, I figured out shortly after that I can verify everything on the IN side. Anyways, all the powers & grounds in the middle pic now have power & ground, so short of a bad connection on the pin 93 crank sensor it should start........... Off to double check a few things & put it back to stock

 

Double checked all powers/grounds, maf, crank sensor, etc, everything is spot on right @ the utec plug. Removed the utec, car fired right up on the stock ecu. I reinspected everything on the board & it all looks perfect. Daren, I sent you a text message, let me know, or if anyone else out there wants to test this utec for me let me know, thanks.

Kevin

 

Dang man, idk what to tell you, its possible the utec is messed up. We talked about it over txt, what do you think your gonna do??

you could wire the utec back to stock, and find a car it will plug into (6th gen, 350z , G) and see how it works.

or you could wire it into a patch harness and test it on a few 5.5 gens.

 

Sorry for jacking your thread but I went to send you a pm and got the following. KRRZ350 has exceeded their stored private messages quota and cannot accept further messages until they clear some space.

I was going to see if you can answer the following for me.

What did you use on your compressor to gut the inside of the intake manifold? Did you use a mini (pen style) air die grinder, a regular mini air die grinder, or a reciprocating saw?

Also, did you sand by hand, what grit did you start off with?

Thanks

 

Just a regular die-grinder

Not that model, actually wouldn't recommend a CH, but it was that style. Reciprocating saw to gut the shelf (Which I still do for $50 + shipping, can't do all the cleanup work anymore though) Then the die grinder, then the final was with a dremel & the sanding drums. You have to put the tool (dremel/die grinder) in first then stick as much of your hand in to get the deep parts, it's kind of a ***** with the die grinder because you need to squeeze the trigger, I disabled the safety on mine made it much easier. With the dremel you can't rach the switch so when you accidentally 'catch' the drum (which you will) it's not good for it, a dremel would seriously last me only 3-4 manifolds if it was a full portmatch & everything, unreliable POS' these days.

Oh and I keep my PM's full because I don't always log on that much anymore, Maximaparts@hotmail.com

 

Thank you

 

So back to the original problem, since I had the ground problems while doing all the flashing I decided to re-install it yesterday, reflashed both processors and still got no start & HT freezes up during cranking

 

Anyone feel like opening up there utec & verifying this stuff for me, it's been monkeyed with, not sure if the pin that was swapped was done by turboxs, but the r/y wire in the top left corner of the first pic has definitely been resoldered to the board by the previous owner. It is a power supply wire & also has continuity to the wire directly to it's right, allthough it may just be an 'out' wire that wasn't needed, I can't find anywhere else on the board that it goes to on it's way there. Thanks

 

Oooops. Injector & coil outputs from the utec are not the same as injector & coil outputs for an emu.

Once I switch those around & reinstall I should be up & running, thanks for everyone's help.

 

^^ WHOA

Whats up with the one pin moved ?????


That pin is not a power supply wire, it looks like pin 24 (o2 sensor) has been moved to a injector pin, cant tell if its 41 or not.



Def dont understand that man!

 

Sorry, the one that I said was a power supply was the one in picture #1 that's just a wired snipped off @ the board. Not sure what's up with the switched pin, I'm going to double check what # it is now

 

You were pretty much spot on, I'm impressed. It looks like they moved the injector #4 wire from (350Z pin) #41 to the previously unoccupied #24 slot, my best guess is a damaged terminal.

 

Woohooo! starts & rev's perfect, no immediate cel or misfires. Now I just need to get rid of the 2 computers & mess of wires on the passenger floor.........

 

Hmm long as it works i guess!! haha





NICEEEEEEEE


Glad you got it working man!

 

Tomorrow I have to plug in the laptop and see if the utec still displays an erroneous ects, but I have a suspicion it's giving me a problem as a tap (on the connector side only) vs connecting both in & out. I hope I'm right on this, otherwise I'm totally lost. Daren didn't you have problems running both the a33 & a34 ecu's off the same sensor?

Everything is great except it's like 11:1 @ idle, closed loop & Map 0, fully warmed up or cold start. Drives fine & ranges between 13-15:1 during cruise, fuel cut still functions normal but I do have a popping out the exhaust after revving that is also new. I hope it's the ects, but I did plug into obdII & itread like 187. No misfires anymore, except for a second ago when I moved it around the driveway but I'm pretty sure it's from the cold.

 

I did have coolant temp sensor issues with 2 ecus. But with utec it worked fine. How do you have the sensor hooked up??? Going through the utec? or Just going into the main connector and not spliced in the ecu harness?

 

I have it as a tap on the utec connector side.

Meaning, ects wire comes from sensor to stock ecu just as on a stock car, and the utec's in wire is also connected to it.

If it reads bad on the utec like it was the other day I'll intercept it, meaning sensor will only connect to in side of utec, and the out from utec will connect to ecu.

My iat & ckps are also connected in the same way, as a tap on the utec in connector only, ie I didn't use the wires coming out of the back for ects, iat, or ckps. The stock ecu has been happy about all this so far.

 

^ it should be fine, but ya never know!