Ive got all the timing componets off again... Car was getting fuel and spark on all cylinders but would bearly run. So im resteting the timing, but looking at the cam adapters "stephenmaxs ones" it seems the exhaust cam dowles arent long enought to rotate the cam with the adapters on, the dowle sits flush... I thought i wouldnt need to drill the cams if i used these. So im stuck and really running out of time on this. If anyone can shed some light on this it would be a huge help.

 

Take the dowel pins off of the VQ30DE's exhaust cams, I used a micro screwdriver and a mallet to wack them out the back side. Then put them in the VQ35DE's cams. The VQ30DE's dowel pins are longer.

 

^^^ not a bad idea. On further inspection it seem the dowel pin has been pushed in and broke the back side of the cam off... Ive got a spare 3.5 so i guess im gonna have to switch cams. WTF would cause that? This swap has been the biggest nightmare of all my mechanical life.

 

Are you sure you installed the adapters correctly? The only thing I could imagine is the adapter did not fit onto the dowel on cam correctly, and during tightening of cam bolt, pushed dowel through backside. If your interested, I as well have a spare set of 3.5 cams.

 

While on this topic, maybe I can get an answer that nobody has been able to provide in several other threads.

When using these cam adapters, where does cam timing end up? Since the 3.5 cams are originally variable, what would be the timing when they are installed "non-variable"?
Want to have 3.5 cams installed in my 3.0, but would like to know if they would be at full retard, full advance, or somewhere in between in order to choose the cams.

 

Im 100% sure i put them on right. Everything went on smooth, i didnt need to force the adapters or sprokets on. Which is why i cant figure out how this could have happend. Ill try and upload a pic, but all i have is my phone... Is there any way i could check if i bent a valve with removing the head? When it was running it wasnt making any kind of clattering sounds, but id still like to make sure before bolting it together for the 3rd time.

 

Stephen's cam adapters are usually made with a 2 degree advance on the intake cams, and 0-degree change on the exhaust cams. You can have the 3.0 gears machined to any spec you want, but spacers are still required. I had one set of gears made by StephenMax with 0-degree advance for my latest engine - planning on 8K redline.

 

How many times would i have to turn the engine to get the timing marks to realine. Ive turned it over a dozen times and the secondary gears never seem to match when the primaries do. It turns nice and smooth tho.

 

for me it was 7 times. When I say seven times that was the gold link passing the crank 6 times then the 7th time it came around to the crank it would be lined up like when you set it.

 

Makes sence, 6 cylinders 7 turns would put it back at the begining. My secondaries must have skipped a couple teeth. Is there a trick to keep it from skipping? Maybe a cup of oil around the pump pick up to prime the tensioners while turning it by hand.

 

Yeah you would want to prime the tensioners by putting them in a cup of oil and depressing the cylinder, then sticking a pin in. It will be hard to depress the cylinder when it is priming. I also lubricated the chain with assembly grease so the chain would flow over the tensioner guides.