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getting the most out or HR/DE build

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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 11:20 PM
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getting the most out or HR/DE build

Finally got the Emanage up and running and a rough tune worked out for street driving. Now its time to hone everything in before a trip to the dyno.

Some of you may already know, but I am working with a 4th gen 3.5 swap on a32 ecu. HR cams/gasket/pistons/springs, ARP bolts all around, BOP, EMU, stock exhaust minus Y-pipe.....(3inch piping and muffler waiting in the shed and maybe altima headers with taxes).

With the supposed 11.5 to 1 static ratio of the HR/DE build, How much timing is safe to start with and at what air/fuel?

I believe I am somewhere around 34* at 5200+ with just the 2 or 3* bump.

Yes, I know stock timing at ~13:1 afr would be fine, but I didnt buy the EMU for nothing. It seems like the car may pull harder with a richer tune (closer to 12:1), but that's all just butt dyno on 3rd gear highway/interstate pulls.

Oddly enough, Just with the EMU install and no adjustments, aside from the 2-3.5 degree advance I accidently left on from the previous owner, I gained power over the VAFC-2 with a perfect 13.1 tune.


I still feel down power from other 3.5 swappers. I hear alot of horror stories about traction issues up until 3rd gear, but I'm just barely spinning the tires over 1 or 3 times on hard shifts to 2nd. I think exhaust may have a little something to do with it since mine has been repaired with crush bends and small pipe.


I messaged s13hatch to get his thoughts but got no response.


I really just want to have a really close tune before hitting the dyno shop. I really want to keep this all self tuned so at least I can be proud of it no matter the outcome.
Old Nov 29, 2011 | 03:58 PM
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so no one has a timing map I can look at to get an idea of whats working for other people?

Yes I know each build is different, but i just want to see what others are doing before i waste money i dont have at a shop.
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 08:48 AM
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I would say the sticc timing.
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 09:31 PM
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If your cam timing is setup to make power up top, but your exhaust isn't, your whole power band should feel a little limp - not sure how you have it dialed in though. I'd stick with a 12.3-12.7A/F after 4K, run 94 if you can, and use the dyno time to tweak the timing so you know when more advance is even worth it. The slightly faster burn rate brought on by the higher C/R shouldn't need too much advance to make OK power, but it's tricky enough getting a decent A/F balance in 1-2-3 using the EU on the street. If the car is being held back mechanically exhaust-wise, playing w/ timing @ high rpms to try and feel more power is a waste of gas IMO.
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 09:37 PM
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Thank-you. That's what I wanted to hear. Shocks and mounts are next but headers will be after. Could I gain from a 3inch y-back setup with stock headers and a 2.5 ypipe?
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 11:08 PM
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Builder said the cams are drilled like dek's as far as he can remember. I guess that means the high side?

Also I'm safe to 7400 on de springs right?
Old Dec 7, 2011 | 12:21 AM
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I now have a knock listening device. Aux cable cut and wired into the knock sensor on the engine that I am not using. Testing will start tomorrow.
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 04:03 PM
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7400 on DE springs? Long-term safe, I'd say no - but if you can listen for knock... you tell us I didn't know anyone had ever installed HR cams in a DE.

Did you machine the pistons or use a thicker head gasket?
Old Dec 8, 2011 | 04:35 PM
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machined. I think headers are whats really holding the car back now. I get a vtec style power kick at ~4500 rpms when the cams really start working but it levels out around 5800-6000.

As for the springs. I was just thinking about floating the valves at that many rpms. HR head studs and ARP rod bolts have me pretty confident. Without headers or a custom intake I think just 6800 or so will be fine for now.

I'm tempted to sell the entire setup and go back to 3.0ville. much more money and I could have been in ls1 f-body range.
Old Dec 10, 2011 | 07:33 AM
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If you're in this far in, freeing up the exhuast/intake aren't major things. 11.5 CR was proven to find another 20+WHP. Sounds like all the hard work is done, just needs refining.
Old Dec 10, 2011 | 08:50 AM
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It just sucks right now. Broke and obx 3.5 headers are out of stock.

To make it all worse, the cold weather pepped up the g35 and I accidently stepped out in 2nd leaving the gas station Friday. I wish I had vvt now....
Old Dec 11, 2011 | 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by skweaky
It just sucks right now. Broke and obx 3.5 headers are out of stock.

To make it all worse, the cold weather pepped up the g35 and I accidently stepped out in 2nd leaving the gas station Friday. I wish I had vvt now....
put an order in for Cattman headers.....
Old Dec 11, 2011 | 03:21 AM
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That'll never happen. Too much money just for some bent steel. I know its the best but its not worth it on my pos.
Old Jan 20, 2012 | 05:47 PM
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I'm doing the same thing here, or at least attempting to do it! HR cams springs and pistons in a '03 35de block and heads. The HR is 10.6CR, and I don't have any kind of tuning solution no haltech eu or anything yet. I might just not use the cams and springs and just use the pistons. Did you install a hi rev oil pump? I got one of those layin around too.
Old Jan 20, 2012 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by skweaky
Builder said the cams are drilled like dek's as far as he can remember. I guess that means the high side?

Also I'm safe to 7400 on de springs right?
thats dangerous... you will bend the rod bolts... highest listed was 7200 for safety, but i went 7100 as the car wasnt even gaining any with that added 100rpm... better safe than sorry

EDIT: failure to read... im just gonna leave this forum today... this headaches got the best of me smh

Last edited by Grand_hustle17; Jan 20, 2012 at 08:04 PM.
Old Jan 20, 2012 | 07:04 PM
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Exhaust is holding you back. Tune the timing curve on the dyno.
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