Want.

 

Bulletproof setup. Looks like the weakest link will be the OEM girdle haha.

Do you know how big they opened up the in/ex ports to, like if simply measured from (<--->). Love seeing VQ headwork pics, blending that machined out 'hump' left under the seat is such a biatch.

 

Nice setup man!!! Wish I could afford a setup for the G20 but I have way to many projects and toys!

 

thank you sir haha

i don't have the exact measurements but i told them to go as aggressive as they can lol i'll have those little details once i have the motor in the shop

thanks man ...

 

Nice. About time somebody did this.

 

You do mean "did this again" ? - right ??

 

Gonna be so slow

Errythang looks beautiful.

 

hahaha yupe ... Harolds got the Nitrous build title...Plus he's sleeved im not lol ... im happy with maybe the heaviest built 6thgen motor title lol

lol ... thanks

 

Sorry about the delay. You had asked about the fuel rail setup on VQ35 SC setup. I unfortunately don't have any recent pictures, but did scavenge a picture from one of my old FS threads.



The fuel rails I was using were out of the '03 350z intake manifold. However, I think they are similar as what came with the FWD VQ35, except one of them had a single damper, while the other had a double. I wanted to ensure I had equal pressure across the rails, so I ended doing a dual feed setup as seen above. All my rubber lines were hi-pressure and 3/8" i.d.

I had a single walbro 255 in-tank, and a Boost-A-Pump backing it up. I recall seeing pressures as high as 65psi. Unfortunately, I didn't have injector duty cycle, but I know for a fact that I could run a flat 12.0:1 while producing something like 450whp SAE. I recall dynoing on a really cold day, and the uncorrected value was almost 470whp.

I did run up to 150hp of nitrous when my VQ35 was still NA. You are planning a bigger shot, and honestly, I would recommend a standalone system like Jime and some of the other folks have used.

Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress.

 

hmm i might try to run something similar

another question i have is are the 550cc Injectors gonna be enough to support maybe just a 200 for now ?

and what size injectors should i get if i wanna do a 250 shot ?

 

??? Are you gonna run a dry shot then? Cause if you're looking at a wet shot, then your stock injectors will be fine. Your pump and filter will need to handle the entire flow.

My fuel rail from my last 3.5 engine was very similar to Meximax's setup. I went away from stock on the new engine because I kept coming up with melted plugs on the end cylinders on both rails. I now have flow-thru rails - no bubbles.

 

Shoulda got a DE-K

 

Doh ...

im doing too much at the same time lol im not thinking right ...

Lol..

 

Jime never used standalone, he used UTEC.

 

Good thing for me i can also use Uprev ... which lately has had NOTHING but good results on alot of cars from altima's to all the z's and G's ... so im really considering it

 

Bish you da only maxima that can use it.... So use it.

 

Really dude? Are you even reading the posts on this thread? Who here is talking about electronic piggyback systems?

We are talking fuel systems. I recall (from about 10 years ago) that Jime used a standalone fuel system (small fuel cell, pump, reg, etc.) dedicated purely for his nitrous system.

 

This is definitely the way to go!

 

NX even make a series of them, as a SAFE package. These are pretty clever. They install in your battery space.

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/produc...tegory=261,263

 

oh wow cool ... very nice

so im a little confused... just for verification

this can be triggered in a way that everytime i spray nitrous it'll just take the gas from this standalone and not the factory gas tank or a mix of both ?

this'll save a whole lot of trouble ... i can just have the standalone laoded with racegas for nitrous

 

yeah it looks like you have to run the fuel line from the standalone to the solenoid so everytime you hit the button its gonna get the fuel from the standalone. You wont have to tap into your fuel lines.

 

this'll save me tons of money on racegas ... its almost $10 a gallon ... i won't have to waist a **** load of money on refilling racegas or on our mexico runs lol


just keep a gallon in this tank ...

but god damn my bill just keeps getting bigger and bigger .. thats another $500 damnit LOL ... never ending money pit i swear ... just when you think youre done ...fml

 

I dont think you even need a upgraded fuel pump if you get this standalone... It already has one hmmmm i may get this down the road. Dont even need to tap into your stock fuel lines.

 

forreal ... fail...

i really want this now

 

why dont you just run a fuel surge tank ?

 

My bad.

In for results...

 

You could connect the tank's pump to the arming switch for your nitrous, so everything goes hot at once - including your NX Maximizer 3 controller (which I will sell you for cheap) and fast Lightning solenoids for throttle-controlled spray - and use E85 (or E98 if you can find it) instead of race fuel. You wouldn't have to touch your stock fuel system - just use some of that great Texas 93-proof gas. You could switch from Kruse to Killar mode instantly. Just keep a small container of E85 in your trunk for a refill.

 

one of my buddies just got a 55 gallon tank of E98 for like $200 bucks or so if im not mistaken

which is not bad at all it would probably last me a good little minute

Whats the deal on that maximizer ? i'll grab it from you today ...pm me

 

Wow - a great price for the drum of E98... know where he got it?

The Maximizer 4 is ordered and paid for - but NX hasn't shipped any yet - so when I get mine, the Maximizer 3 will be available. I'll PM you when I take it out. Look up the NX 15201L and 15300L 500HP solenoids - those are the ones you want for a big-shot nitrous controller. They are very fast to open and close so they regulate much better - and the fuel solenoid is guaranteed to work w/E85-E98.

 

alot of the domestic and supra guys are getting in on E98 here in texas ..quite a few EVO's too ... i'll try to get some more info on where he got it from ... but i remember it was local cause he borrowed my other buddies truck to go get it

whats so special about the maximizer 4 compared to the 3 ?

i took time to read the whole manual on the 3 and i love it .. don't really think there can be anything better on the 4 unless they got a 3rd stage option lol

 

Hah - no, it's still got two independent stages. The biggie is that the -4 has A/F monitoring and control options. You set A/F limits and if the limits are exceeded, the whole nitrous controller is shut down, There is also supposed to be a function where the A/F is automatically adjusted as you spray down the highway. Of course you'll need a wideband output for the Maximizer to use.

The tech manuals aren't released yet, so I don't have any details - but I will.

 

nice ... new and new stuff coming out everyday

so if you lean/rich out it'll shut everything off autoimatically ?

 

I'm guessing that's what it means - again, no Tech manual available yet. The way the description reads makes me think that you can set a target A/F for spraying, and a lower and upper limit to A/F, so that if everything is working the A/F will stay adjusted to your target A/F event if the fuel pressure or nitrous pressure drops some. The total shot level would decrease but the A/F would stay within your defined limits. If something goes very wrong (fuel pump dies) then the nitrous is shut off completely.

If you use another fuel (E85) then the wideband sensor must be able to report either the A/F directly or the Lamda reading to the Maximizer. Again, no manual yet, so who knows.

 

Hmmm sounds interesting


oh.... im gonna go ahead and buy the Safe fuel standalone too

Im gonna go ahead and get the external pump/adjustable one over the non adjustable internal pump one ...

 

I read that you want to always have racefuel in the Nitrous Standalone unit, and it all great and everything, BUT, you better keep you A/F in check. Most race fuels have a different stoichiometric ratios. While it may be 14.5 for pump gas, its 13.4 for MS109. In other words, a 13:1 is great for pump gas, but freakishly lean if you are on MS109.

The fuel jets that are sent by nitrous system manufacturers are sized for pump gas and aiming at 12.0:1 or so. If you run race fuel, you WILL need to adjust your jets accordingly.

What I am really saying is, do your homework and it will keep your engine living longer. Its in my best interest to help you keep your engine alive so that we actually get to race

 

i did a little bit of reading up on everything race fuel wise

and my conclusion is C23 sounds nice Lol ... but expensive and only Baytown track keeps some in stock now the other option ive came up with is Q16 which i know i need to raise fuel on because even compared to c16 it needs 5% fuel increase compared to c16 thus also makes more power ... but ive made up my mind i will run Q16 cause its easy access for me ... and its wider range of AFR acceptability

still reading up on everything ... i know once i get everything up and running im gonna have one hell of a long dynotune session lol

 

Well said - but it's even more complicated than that. Your wideband sees the result of all combustion, so that reading will vary based on the shot level you spray, as well as the fuels you are using. For the MS109 and 91 octane, I aimed for 12:1 at 175 shot. According to N2O experts, lean is better than rich, with less possibility of preignition (the real engine killer) and I've made a run with a dead primary fuel solenoid (two stages) but spraying 175 shot with A/F of ~ 17:1 and no problems. Learning to read your plugs after every pass is the only reliable way to know what's going on inside. For big shots, don't use plugs with extended tips - NGK and others have recessed iridium tips with a flat ground strap perfect for nitrous and too much turbo boost. Learn to read the ground strap. Use flow-through fuel rails so you don't collect bubbles at the ends. Be very sure that your fuel system can deliver enough flow at WOT - which also requires a larger fuel filter. Etc. etc. etc.....

I'm still trying to figure it out, but switching to E85 is the insurance I think I need.

 

A reminder - stay away from leaded fuels or get a bulk price on O2 sensors....

 

wouldn't running that lean possibly damage the head ? i leaned out at the track and cracked a valve .. and blew the tips off 2 of my rear Spark plugs lol ? and i was at like 13's AFR

guess i'll be getting bulk 02 sensors lol

with danny and aaron at Nissan unlimited and Aaron living 1-2 mins away from me that shouldn't be a problem lol

edit: another question

Im debating between the 2 Fuel stand alones ... which one should i get in your opinion ? the adjustable external pump or the non adjustable internal pump ? would you happen to know the specs on the fuel delivery on the non adjustable one ?

 

That's not a Lean problem - that's preignition. Projected tips and ground straps sticking out and glowing in the dark causes that. See previous reference to recessed plugs...

According to NX - the non-adjustable tank can supply up to 300 nitrous horsepower on gasoline. The adjustable tank can handle up to 800 nitrous horsepower and is compatible with gas and methanol. If you're going with a SAFE tank, then look at the Methanol version. It can supply up to 300 nitrous horsepower on methanol (and external regulator) read these specs closely - this might be your best choice.

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/produc...ls.php?id=1484