DEK and VQ35-DE injectors are the same IIRC.

Not sure why your car don't rev past 2500 though.

 

my t'stat wasnt working because it wouldnt open all the way, so I think it went into limp because it thought it was overheating. I never really got around to doing anything with the MAF sensor. I since replaced the tstat and it seems to climb up to 3.2k and more, but i'm kinda not pushing the accel since its not broken in yet. It also runs lean with too much timing as indicated by spark plugs, so have to work this out now.

 

VQ30DE injectors 259cc @ 3.0 BAR
VQ30DE-K injectors 290cc @ 3.0 BAR (FBJC100)
VQ35DE (Maxima) injectors 315cc @ 3.5 BAR (FBJC101)
VQ35DE (350Z) injectors 335cc @ 3.5 BAR (FBJC100)

Credit go to SR20DEN

So that means that the Maxima is 20cc lower than 350Z?
And DEk is 25cc below Maxima...All this stuff is makin me wonder If I'll need bigger injectors. I wonder if the HR 350z injectors is the same cc as listed above, maybe fsm can tell me.
Damn, I basically been running my newly built engine lean and too advanced!

 

VQ35DE (Maxima) injectors 315cc @ 3.5 BAR (FBJC101)

are good up to 300whp...or so they say.

no wideband?

 

Its not completely necessary to upgrade the injectors in an stock displacement NA build. MAF and coolant temperature sensor are what would knock down your limiter. What are you tunning on?

 

I am going to try the aem fic. so you guys think that stock DE injectors will be ok even with the HR pistons and cams
I have the wb installed already and it works.

 

If the wideband is working then you would know if you are running lean no?

The stock injectors will be fine until 300whp. I doubt you are even close to the injectors limit unless their are mods we are unaware of...

What are the specs on the HR cam? pretty mild right?

 

I thought it was required to convert to retunless with an apfr, unless there's a way around it besides using a de-k rail.

 

I suppose they are mild compared to real aftermarket cams, I know their lift is 1mm more than DE cams.

Yea, I know. But this particular rail has been modified I think...check this out:

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-question.html
I did away with the ebay fpr. Should I didtch this damper/fpr thing thats on the fuel rail and use an adjustable fpr then?

 

I have white smoke from exhaust, and little bubbles in the radiator. I can't believe the hg blew already. Going back to my 3.0

 

Sucks! What HG did you use?

 

Dont give up on this, hate to say it but you are the reason the HG blew if it did in fact blow. 3/4 of this swap you had no idea what you were doing. You need to do more reading on 3.5 swaps. but you spent the money already just replace the gasket and get the car running the right way. And get the car tuned on something better than a S/VAFC, at the very least an emanage on its gold firmware should have you in business.

 

fastnfurious-Cometic HG at .04"=enough clearance for the HR pistons. Or so I've heard/read.
Crusher-I had heads and block inspected! I read very much on the swap! And to have you say that really hurts! But, I digress. maybe you are right...
This forum is basically my lifeline, and I had many questions that went unanswered. So I improvised much.
I think that the cause might have come from the faulty tstat-I just reused the one that came with the engine-bad idea. But my temp gauge NEVER rose past the halfway mark, so I never thought it was overheating.
I'm going to pull the rear plugs to check for coolant residue.
This engine was shipped to me on its side, it fell during the freight process, so maybe a cylinder is cracked from this. I don't know what I'm gonna do...
I did a complet transmission overhaul during the swap, and it was overwhelming. This time I can be more focused on just the swap.

 

I just did a pressure check on the rad, held at 23psi, very slowly went down to around 20psi after like 10 min. I'm using a cheap Harbor Freight pressure tester, which loses air through the hose if it's bent.
I checked the oil and it looks like oil still. I'm going to try a leakdown later. So far I don't think it's a hg issue. I rally hope not.

 

It hurts but i was given the same talk too but much worse than what i just said. Sometimes its just coming to terms with what is actually happening. The problem is we cannot spoon feed you the whole swap somethings are just obvious if you know the way these motors work.

 

I hear ya, but spoon feeding? c'mon man!
I didnt have real help regarding HR cams and tuning-it was even you who gave me the motivation to go ahead and stick w/the HR cams!! I don't see how I was bein spooned. (fed) Well maybe a BIT, but who doesnt frm time to time?
Anyway. The FSM been my Holy book for this job, althogh it has its share of flaws ( like reversing the pins location 46,47 for the ecu adapter on the Phase pos sensor and the REF cam sensor.) Last thing I want is erryone thinkin that I'm some sorta a$$hole that doesnt know what im doing.

 

FWIW a DE-K injector at 3.5 Bar would be about 313cc/min

 

Most of the stuff is basic, the only real thing you should have need help with is the tuning with a high compression motor. The FSM is the crutch that everybody uses its very helpfully, its impossible to do some of these jobs without it.

Dont give up on this project yet though everything was spot on except for the random port you put in the IM, get the adapters and reinstall your IACV and your motor should have a nice health idle, because....well IACV stands for "Idle Air Control Valve", its kind of its job to help keep the car idling properly.

Also there is no built in FPR on the fuel rail on the VQs out of the 6th gen there is a fuel damper not a regulator. Any regulator will be bolted on to the ends of the fuel rail which can simply and easily be taken off. Sard sells fuel rail adapters and you can pick up and N/A specific Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator from anywhere really, Aeromotive is your best bet, or you can stick with Sard, nismo also makes one but even a cheap ebay one will work flawlessly. Fuel pressure should be in between 30-35PSI at idle and +42PSI at full load.

 

yea i know wgat IACV stands for ...I have been using adaptor plate for a couple weeks now abd my idle is flawless. Im not having any issues-Ecxept for the tuning, andall the white exhaust and the ****load of water out the tailpipe.
a leakdown didnt do anything except push the pistons down from tdc, but when it was holding at tdc, there werent bubbles in the radiator. thats good. Pressure checked out, I held it at 20-21psi for 10min twice. oils not milkshaky, and all sparkplugs are dry. I dont know what else besides hg will do thisto exhaust. during my tries with the aem fic, i was cranking it and cranking it with the fuel not getting spark. I smelled gasoline.
then i just yanked the fic off and connected just the ecu back, and its been doing this white exhaust thing since. Oh and no I havent been driving it, just running it at idle.

 

remember that the rings havent been broken in maybe that could explain the white smoke because you are on new rings,untuned and high compression,i dont know about the water

 

monies tight gonna have to do a jack move...lol
jk
Shrek thanks for the input I hope thats all it is man. I don't wanna spend any more cash on this car atm...I hope it not a bad exhaust valve seal or some crap like that.

 

Also I notice i got a very small leak in one of the hose going to/from the heater. But I think thats unrelated, going to fix it anyway though.

 

OK I pulled the engine lastnight. I will start ripping it apart tomorow. Lat time, I did not have the heads/block decked or even checked for warpage/cracks. This time I'm gonna have them magnafluxed and decked if needed. If they do need to be decked, the height will be reduced. I was using the Cometic 0.04" gaskets to help compensate for the HR pistons on the previous build. If the gaskets are ok will I be able to reuse them or will I probably have to get thicker gaskets to compensate for the deck height reduction? I hope that the heads and block are not cracked.

 

The head bolts seemed easier to remove, I don't think I torqued them proper. Also, I only thus far seen very small warpage on #2, about 0.002", FSM says limit before resurfacing is 0.004", so I'm going to get new head gaskets(some peeps have reused cometics, but I really don't want to do this again) and retorque them down.

While its apart, I might try the pathfinder cooling mod that fastnfurious brought to my attention. I found a pf pipe for cheap.
I might get the heads magnafluxed also. I think the local machine shop can do this without removing the valve assemblies.

 

Pics please! Following with great interest!

 

the pathfinder cooling mod is only for the RWD VQ,for a FWD VQ it would be the DE-K cooling tube with the extra thermostat

 

ok, thanks-dont have any of those lol I won't buy the pf one then.

 

I pulled the heads off a few days ago, and none of the pistons are washed from coolant. Is it possible to have a hg leak and the pistons not look clean/washed?

 

FWIW i was messing with my TPS last week because I couldn't get it to idle right.. was idling at 1100... and while messing with it i unplugged the TPS and ran it a while like that and it was dumping out white smoke and water like crazy... plugged it back in, fixed a vacuum leak and no more problems now...

if it is in limp mode. maybe it's dumping fuel like crazy... when fuel burns it creates co2 and h20. so maybe that's why it was smoking and u didn't have a leak after all.

 

Oh, too late now LOL engine's all apart again. There was slight warpage on cylinder 2, about 0.002" or so.
When I pulled the motor, and I drained the oil, I had chocolate milk...Normally I like chocolate milk..I didn't drink this though.

 

No , you would ve see some **** in there .

 

Well one things for sure-the oil path mod I did definitely primes the secondary timing tensioners so if anyone has doubts I suggest this mod. When I was tearing it apart again they were impossible to squeeze. I ended up having to use channel lock to compress them.
I got the block at the machine shop to get it decked. I also might get the rotating assembly balanced.
I'm going to try the emanage ultimate and see if this can help.

 

Having the block decked is of order as well as head resurfacing too . Was maybe the cause of white smoke , also check your head gaskets .

 

yea I used cometic head gaskets, they're mls gaskets with a rubber coating. I'm no expert and I cant determine if I can reuse the gaskets or not, I've read about peeps reusing them, but I don't know if they reused them after a blown head gasket. They look ok, but I don't want to risk it. Besides, after decking the block, I'll lose some piston clearance so I might need a 0.045" gasket depending on the depth taken off.
The heads are straight.

 

Cometic Gaskets can be reused , but clean them real nice , needs to be perfectly clean , as with the surfaces they go on .

 

OK-I took the block and rotating assembly to the machine shop. The machinest said that the block is ok, and he decked it 0.006". That means the cometic head gasket that I have (0.04") will now be at 0.034", so I might get a new gasket.
He also said that the piston to wall clearance looks good, but i don't know if he referenced the FSM to get this fact or if he is just theorizing it. They mostly do Chevy and other domestic engines there.
He said that the pistons aren't in very good shape. There was a bit of scoring in all cylinders, so they rehoned the block and put a new crosshatch in. Should I reuse the old HR pistons? The pistons' sideskirts are scoring as well, is this OK?
Also, If I get new Head gaskets, can I drill them/have them machined to have the extra colling holes by the exhaust valves like the HR head gaskets?

 

No, no, and no.
Reusing the pistons will score the walls again, you could reuse the gasket but DO NOT drill additional holes in it! If you want an HR looking gasket, get an HR gasket. Have you done the cooling mod on the block to take advantage of the HR gasket?

 

No I havent done the pf cooling mod, still trying to get ahold of the dek crossover pipe.
OK-So I suppose new pistons are in order?

 

Does anyone know if Nissan would sell/make an out of spec HR gasket because I think I need at leats a 0.045"?

 

I have a lil UPDATE:
Machine shop returned my block and it's ok, I had him hone it just because. Looks a lot better than the ball hone. He used a Sunnen.
The crankshaft assembly is still being balanced, its been there for almost three weeks. Ialso had him pressure test the heads. I'll post some pics up shortly for anyone of you guys thats intereested. Hopefull, this time it will work, but he said that the heads have no cracks, so the white smoke I had last time is puzzling.