My racecar!! lol
This is the best i've gotten N/A
10-30-2012, 06:31 PM
#3
Any pics of the interior. Interested in seeing what was removed in order to get down to 2600 lbs.
Nice nitrous setup... how much was being sprayed?
Nice nitrous setup... how much was being sprayed?
Last edited by ABIGBRAIN; 10-30-2012 at 06:53 PM.
10-30-2012, 08:26 PM
#10
The car is in the tuning shop right now getting the n/a tune touched up and a full nitrous tune im hoping to run 12s consistently and 11s on spray. i also have a shift kit for it not installed
10-30-2012, 08:32 PM
#11
why the heck do you keep that passanger airbag for? Id throw a resistor in there to keep the airbag system fooled and get rid of that thing.
and why keep the heater core if you removed the blower fan and piping?
and why keep the heater core if you removed the blower fan and piping?
10-31-2012, 06:42 AM
#14
Door panels 'have' to stay on?...just curious.
Could glass be changed to plexiglass?
I've heard of the crash bars in the doors being taken out as well.
Also hope that's a manual 4th gen seat.
Good job though on the times.
Could glass be changed to plexiglass?
I've heard of the crash bars in the doors being taken out as well.
Also hope that's a manual 4th gen seat.
Good job though on the times.
10-31-2012, 10:05 AM
#17
You can get some dry ice for a couple of bucks and remove all that interior tar. Just lay the dry ice on the tar and let it sit for a few minutes till it evaporates away. Tap the tar with a hammer and the tar comes off in huge sheets. The tar was around 30~40 pounds removed from my car, possibly more. That hood sensor and bracket in front of the battery can be removed, I also still see bits of the cruise control that can be removed as well. Smaller battery works wonders as well.
I may also go full track car on my '96 as the laws in Mass are getting worse for modded cars every year.
I may also go full track car on my '96 as the laws in Mass are getting worse for modded cars every year.
Last edited by 98SEBlackMax; 10-31-2012 at 10:13 AM.
10-31-2012, 05:31 PM
#20
Also some notes that we've learned through this process.
SSIM is a no go with 3.0 cams. We dyno tested this last weekend and lost 20HP after a retune. It's now off the car and the stock manifold is back on.
SSIM is a no go with 3.0 cams. We dyno tested this last weekend and lost 20HP after a retune. It's now off the car and the stock manifold is back on.
11-01-2012, 06:10 PM
#28
The big purple bottle didn't give it away? 
Depends on how much the heater core weighs and if a bigger radiator would achieve the same effect as the heater core. My 4th gen mishimoto radiator weighed 11lbs dry compared to the stock at 6lbs 98% dry. There is also the weight of the extra coolant the mishimoto holds to account for.
Depends on how much the heater core weighs and if a bigger radiator would achieve the same effect as the heater core. My 4th gen mishimoto radiator weighed 11lbs dry compared to the stock at 6lbs 98% dry. There is also the weight of the extra coolant the mishimoto holds to account for.
11-02-2012, 07:35 AM
#30
11-02-2012, 10:35 AM
#31
Also, if you are going to keep the heater core, you will want to keep the blower motor and climate control unit in order to blow as much air through it as possible. Without, the blower motor, I don't think it's really serving a purpose.
When I am racing, as soon as I pass through the traps, I manually turn on the cooling fans and I blast my heater on full speed with the temperature as hot as it will go and the air recirculating. I will do this, even in the summer time. Within just a few seconds, I can see my coolant temperature dropping.
This gets my engine as cool as possible, as fast as possible, in case I am called back up to the lanes and have to hot lap.
And one thing I have noticed, with my old VE30DE engine, coolant temperature was VERY crucial. My best 1/4 mile times came from launching at a coolant temperature of 150-160 degrees. But the VQ35DE is different. My best times have come while hot lapping with a coolant temperature of around 175-180 degrees as long as my intake manifold is still cool to the touch, which is easy to achieve with the NWP Spacers.
My times are VERY consistent, though, whether I'm hot lapping or cooling down between rounds. And this is mostly due to the Spacers and blasting the heater.
11-05-2012, 12:25 PM
#35
Can you all post this dyno? I want to see if it looks something like mine. From everyone's post in my dyno thread I feel like I am the only one to loose power from the SSIM. If you don't want to post it on the forum can you PM me or email me? Thanks.
11-15-2012, 12:02 AM
#37
UPDATE: Decided to take my car to the track and play around.
i ended up pulling a 12.56@108 this was on a stock 4thgen ecu.
I couldnt get traction threw 1st and 2nd but still managed to pull a 1.96 60ft.
i ended up pulling a 12.56@108 this was on a stock 4thgen ecu.
I couldnt get traction threw 1st and 2nd but still managed to pull a 1.96 60ft.
I'm gonna start building a budget nitrous 3.5 4th gen in 6 months. Going to be fully gutted, cut doors, cut trunk area. It will be very light. Can't wait should be fun.
11-15-2012, 07:18 AM
#38