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Who has a 4" intake on an 02-08 VQ35?

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Old 03-22-2013 | 07:50 AM
  #1  
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Who has a 4" intake on an 02-08 VQ35?

Lots of people post on having one in their build threads., but I don't think I've ever seen an actual thread dedicated to the discussion of it.

So, I decided to start one.

Background/justification:
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/rac...yesterday.html

Some technical discussion, no actual proof though.

Post # 261 and into the next page:
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...duction-7.html

So, let's get to talking/comparing, etc.
Old 03-22-2013 | 01:46 PM
  #2  
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This thread will come in handy for at least 10 people that are ordering from Doug...reference: 3.5/4" Intake & MAF - FS thread
Sub'd

BTW, there are also threads I've seen on my350z referencing larger intakes on VQs...maybe even some dyno proof

Last edited by MrEous; 03-22-2013 at 01:53 PM.
Old 03-22-2013 | 02:07 PM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by MrEous
BTW, there are also threads I've seen on my350z referencing larger intakes on VQs...maybe even some dyno proof
I think we found a volunteer to go get those links!!!
Old 03-24-2013 | 10:43 AM
  #4  
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Gains will be there. Could be more or less on the 02-08 vq. I wont post my comparison dynos in this thread (see my dyno thread) but it was a solid 10whp peak, with gains all over the powerband.
Old 04-02-2013 | 05:41 PM
  #5  
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mine and a local will be tuned with Haltech on the 20th. El Jefe above as well and a couple others


Last edited by Cant_Get_Ryte; 06-03-2013 at 03:07 PM.
Old 04-03-2013 | 09:03 AM
  #6  
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Dynojet

I've got my 4" set-up on hand, but yours is so much cleaner and easier to install that I'm going to send you the $$ today.
Old 04-03-2013 | 02:15 PM
  #7  
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EL OH EL,
Brother im actually driving over an hour to try to get tuned. If that falls through i have to drive over three hours to philly :/. Hills has decided they only work on Z's now. So as it stands whatever they have at the other shop im going to is what ill be tuned on. We do have a possible MDMax dyno day coming up, but still in the planning stages.
Old 04-04-2013 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Cant_Get_Ryte
EL OH EL,
Brother im actually driving over an hour to try to get tuned. If that falls through i have to drive over three hours to philly :/. Hills has decided they only work on Z's now. So as it stands whatever they have at the other shop im going to is what ill be tuned on. We do have a possible MDMax dyno day coming up, but still in the planning stages.
I still wish I wasn't the only Maxima guy in my state. Going strong, 13 years in a row.
Old 04-05-2013 | 01:01 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Cant_Get_Ryte
Hills has decided they only work on Z's now.
That sucks......It's their loss!
Old 04-08-2013 | 08:11 PM
  #10  
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JDS is slacking where in pa are you guys getting tuned?
Old 05-09-2013 | 08:12 AM
  #11  
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Rough install last night.

Cliffs: Needed to add 18-20% fuel for a street tune at about 12.8 or so, so I need check timing to see how that affected it. Had to screw with the Ne points and part throttle %'s, but looks to be all good now during cruising speeds.

Last edited by NmexMAX; 05-15-2013 at 07:54 AM.
Old 05-16-2013 | 02:50 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Rough install last night.

Cliffs: Needed to add 18-20% fuel for a street tune at about 12.8 or so, so I need check timing to see how that affected it. Had to screw with the Ne points and part throttle %'s, but looks to be all good now during cruising speeds.
Are you using the sparks IM? When are you going to dyno this with the 4''?

I never believed the gains of that scammer. It would be nice to see if his gains were lies or not.
Old 05-16-2013 | 07:05 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Rough install last night.

Cliffs: Needed to add 18-20% fuel for a street tune at about 12.8 or so, so I need check timing to see how that affected it. Had to screw with the Ne points and part throttle %'s, but looks to be all good now during cruising speeds.
Installing those larger injectors should fix this issue.
Old 05-16-2013 | 07:53 PM
  #14  
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In for dynos.
Old 05-17-2013 | 07:29 AM
  #15  
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My question is what about the Throttle body and plenum elbow, shouldnt they also see a bump in size, maybe move to an 80mm TB if its possible to find one.

Edit: come to think of it, the Titan uses the same throttle body as the VQ35s etc and here is what they have been doing, although 90mm might be overkill:

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tita...y-upgrade.html
Old 05-17-2013 | 08:01 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
My question is what about the Throttle body and plenum elbow, shouldnt they also see a bump in size, maybe move to an 80mm TB if its possible to find one.

Edit: come to think of it, the Titan uses the same throttle body as the VQ35s etc and here is what they have been doing, although 90mm might be overkill:

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tita...y-upgrade.html


I also have a VK56 in the Pathy, might need to play around.

Yeah, everything seems fine now, partial throttle, ect. I have a timing log I need to look at. But just glancing over without catastrophically nailing a pedestrian, I noticed the timing was a bit higher than I thought it would be @ WOT. Low 30's @ 5k, then I quickly turned back to the road. But, if this is the case, that will be FTMFW, since adding all the fuel, I thought would negate that.
Non cal'd *** dyno is ftw too.

The whistle is loud, semi cool. I might reinstall the sparks IM to see if it makes a difference, since it has a fat *** elbow, though the TB is the same. And keeping the TB the same size for now, just because well, the VQ is like that in that logic hardly ever works. If anything, I'll just go with the 09 TB.

Logic hardly ever works in the NA VQ scene, at least that's been my experience.


Since I bought Dougs set-up, that means I have an extra 4" intake set-up probably up for grabs soon, MAF housing and slightly bent pipe from SiliconeIntakes.

.

Originally Posted by nishfish871
Installing those larger injectors should fix this issue.
Yeah, 440's have been in for a grip. Had them with my 3" MAF housing and it was good with 1/1 setting, rich as a pig/sputter when 1/17. Also, MPG reads 33.2, Not in this auto. Looks as if its common to be adding that much fuel to get where it needs to be. I'll have to take a look at that timing log.

It's a 1-2 WOT to 7000. I still may need to do a 2000-4000 to see what's happening there.

33% is all I can get for AFL on the SAFC, when before it was 67% or so.

Originally Posted by FastnFuriousMax
Are you using the sparks IM? When are you going to dyno this with the 4''?

I never believed the gains of that scammer. It would be nice to see if his gains were lies or not.
Sparks mani didn't work so well for me, maybe with this set-up it might. So, I might reinstall FTFOI and see.


Timing looks to be good even with +25-30% fuel being added @ WOT. In the upper 20/low 30's range.

I'm assuming it's from the REALLY low flow with the 4", somewhere in the 30-32% range maximum airflow.

Columns are time (ms), ECT (şC), RPM, IGN Timing, TPS voltage (4.1 is WOT).

Last edited by NmexMAX; 05-21-2013 at 08:31 AM.
Old 05-31-2013 | 10:59 AM
  #17  
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4" Installed - UTEC tuning in process...

^Yup...I tuned with UTEC and am seeing +20s added to fuel in just about every rpm in 10-20% columns.

NOTE: Upgrade the stock injectors if you're bolt-on crazy like me. Just for safety
I'm running Z33 (350z) injectors which flow ~335cc @3.5bar and am currently hitting 92% injector duty cycle in the 6k+ rpm range. ...440cc injectors going in very soon to remedy that issue.

I finally got around to installing my 4" setup and started to do tuning via UTEC. So i'm in the process of doing WOT runs to smoothen everything about. I can definitely FEEL the gains though. I'll get with a professional tuner next month most likely to finish it all off and get some official #s.

If anyone is running a UTEC (chirp chirp) here are my settings below. I got great help from Cant_Get_Ryte and also SurraTT.

DISCLAIMER: The settings below are for my car and for my mods. By running someone else's maps you have the chance of ruining your engine or sensors. -kthx
My current mod list is further below.
Code:
[25;80f[22;23r[23;01f[START][MAPGROUP1][MAPGROUP]
Map Name:-[Big Ole Four]
Map Comments:-[Big maf & intake]
Fuel Map
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Timing Map
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Boost Map
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4" CGR Intake/MAF - SSIM - NWP Spacers - Z33 Injectors - Cattman Headers - 3" Test Pipe - 3" custom exhaust - Fidanza LWF...and UTEC
Attached Files
File Type: txt
BigFour MAP.txt (24.4 KB, 199 views)
Old 05-31-2013 | 11:12 AM
  #18  
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:hides
Old 06-02-2013 | 10:41 PM
  #19  
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Subbed for education purposes...

one day I will do this!
Old 06-03-2013 | 03:44 PM
  #20  
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updated with dyno sheet. Between this and my last dyno i am down 7peak, but there have been 8 million changes lolbut more down low than the last dyno and up top. smh. Back on the fence if i should 6speed swap or just buy another edge convertor...smh...Too much play in the level ten, engagement is nowhere near as...aggressive lol
260/248 with a best of 298/308 on a 35shot.
New Level Ten Convertor instead of my beloved Edge Racing Convertor
Haltech instead of my utec
4 inch maf Housing
440 CC Injectors

I cant wait to get my boys 6spd up and running on his utec/vmanage and see how it runs against one of our haltech tuned 4 inch cars we just finished....

JEFF, your the **** sir.
Old 06-03-2013 | 05:51 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Cant_Get_Ryte


updated with dyno sheet. Between this and my last dyno i am down 7peak, but there have been 8 million changes lolbut more down low than the last dyno and up top. smh. Back on the fence if i should 6speed swap or just buy another edge convertor...smh...Too much play in the level ten, engagement is nowhere near as...aggressive lol
260/248 with a best of 298/308 on a 35shot.
New Level Ten Convertor instead of my beloved Edge Racing Convertor
Haltech instead of my utec
4 inch maf Housing
440 CC Injectors

I cant wait to get my boys 6spd up and running on his utec/vmanage and see how it runs against one of our haltech tuned 4 inch cars we just finished....

JEFF, your the **** sir.
You need cams man, and that auto is holding you back big time imo. If you can swap for under 1k I say do it. God I hate autos...especially this 4 speed in the maxima it is junk imo.
Old 06-03-2013 | 06:35 PM
  #22  
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with the right mods the 4AT will dominate in the 1/4m so I disagree 100%. Even with just a VB upgrade and a high stall TC it is win.
Old 06-03-2013 | 08:50 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ShocknAwe
with the right mods the 4AT will dominate in the 1/4m so I disagree 100%. Even with just a VB upgrade and a high stall TC it is win.
This RE4F04B 4AT works very well for me. Closest thing to bullet-proof that I could find, along with a twice-modded Edge torque converter that hard-stalls at 3000.

http://www.importperformancetrans.co...sion-4435.html

Old 06-04-2013 | 05:51 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ShocknAwe
with the right mods the 4AT will dominate in the 1/4m so I disagree 100%. Even with just a VB upgrade and a high stall TC it is win.
I thought the fastest NA and FI maximas were still manuals and the fastest maxima on spray was an auto. Did things change? Very likely as I don't keep up with it anymore...E

ither way a manual is way more fun to drive and he will dyno higher with one.
Old 06-04-2013 | 07:18 AM
  #25  
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He will always dyno higher with a 6MT but with the 4A there's a good chance his car would be faster with the right stall.
Old 06-05-2013 | 11:04 PM
  #26  
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No its a give and take. Easy to drive in the city but can still be performance from a stop
Old 06-06-2013 | 07:16 AM
  #27  
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And here I though this thread was about 4" intakes. Not primitive medieval times AT vs MT.
Old 06-08-2013 | 02:56 PM
  #28  
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Right hurrrr *raises hand*
Old 06-10-2013 | 11:03 PM
  #29  
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UPDATE**As I previously stated, the Z33 (350z) injectors I had were hitting 92% duty cycle...leaning out is a bad thing, so I upgraded to some RC 440cc injectors. After install, now only hitting 70s on duty cycle. Not bad! Some pics...

Out with the old...


Injector comparison: 350z purples on left, RC fat pig 440cc on the right. Notice the height difference.


RC 440s now installed:


Going to do some runs once I have this TXS Tuner wired in and finally even out my fuel. Tuning at a dyno this month or July, for sure.
Old 06-10-2013 | 11:50 PM
  #30  
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me likey! Ready to see the dyno runs!
Old 06-11-2013 | 08:00 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by MrEous

Going to do some runs once I have this TXS Tuner wired in and finally even out my fuel. Tuning at a dyno this month or July, for sure.
Stupid little fuse.


So, after some time with this thing, and after WOT runs, I think it's fair to say, my corrections are a little lower that I thought. I was just being semi conservative.

Looks to be about 22-24% via SAFCII. Idles fine, part throttle driving is also fine. I needed to sacrifice one more Ne point from 3800 down to 2400, so 800, 2400, 4200, 4400, 4800, 5400, 5800, 6000, 6200, 6600, 6800, 7000. That 2400 was needed to balance out part throttle since it was in the high 15's around there. I also use a bit higher resolution in the low-mid 4k's because that's where I like more control for MAF timing values, but I'm not sure I need it since I last posted my timing #'s and they looked real good. And the reason for the high RPM resolutions is for safety/paranoia.


The more and more I DD this, the more I'm thinking of doing what I used to have. Basically adding the CMax resonator, fast cat, stock airbox, with 4" intake of course. Jekyll/Hyde mode.

Last edited by NmexMAX; 06-19-2013 at 11:11 AM.
Old 07-25-2013 | 04:19 PM
  #32  
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Not sure if i buy it since I'm the one that disputed it years ago. But, my AFR's have been creeping towards the rich side lately, meaning, is the ECU actually beginning to compensate .. or .

During full WOT I am now @ 11.9-12.2 with +25%. With those numbers, in my experience, I need to remove between 8-10% fuel to get back to where my particular vehicle likes it.

This is more in line to what I expected with my elementary calculations prior to putting on the 4” MAF.
Old 07-26-2013 | 03:42 PM
  #33  
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Are you sure you don't just need to compensate for temperature/DA changes?
(i.e. less fuel during summer due to less dense air)

--------------------------
Here's a good one for y'all. Using UTEC I get an AFR variance between A/C on and A/C off.
A/C on my idle is a normal 14.xx AFR...A/C off my idle is 12.xx
And if I go WOT it's the same AFR either way. Blah

I blame UTEC unless others have this issue that don't use UTEC.

Last edited by MrEous; 07-26-2013 at 03:46 PM.
Old 07-27-2013 | 06:07 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX


I also have a VK56 in the Pathy, might need to play around.

Yeah, everything seems fine now, partial throttle, ect. I have a timing log I need to look at. But just glancing over without catastrophically nailing a pedestrian, I noticed the timing was a bit higher than I thought it would be @ WOT. Low 30's @ 5k, then I quickly turned back to the road. But, if this is the case, that will be FTMFW, since adding all the fuel, I thought would negate that.
Non cal'd *** dyno is ftw too.

The whistle is loud, semi cool. I might reinstall the sparks IM to see if it makes a difference, since it has a fat *** elbow, though the TB is the same. And keeping the TB the same size for now, just because well, the VQ is like that in that logic hardly ever works. If anything, I'll just go with the 09 TB.

Logic hardly ever works in the NA VQ scene, at least that's been my experience.


Since I bought Dougs set-up, that means I have an extra 4" intake set-up probably up for grabs soon, MAF housing and slightly bent pipe from SiliconeIntakes.

.


Yeah, 440's have been in for a grip. Had them with my 3" MAF housing and it was good with 1/1 setting, rich as a pig/sputter when 1/17. Also, MPG reads 33.2, Not in this auto. Looks as if its common to be adding that much fuel to get where it needs to be. I'll have to take a look at that timing log.

It's a 1-2 WOT to 7000. I still may need to do a 2000-4000 to see what's happening there.

33% is all I can get for AFL on the SAFC, when before it was 67% or so.


Sparks mani didn't work so well for me, maybe with this set-up it might. So, I might reinstall FTFOI and see.


Timing looks to be good even with +25-30% fuel being added @ WOT. In the upper 20/low 30's range.

I'm assuming it's from the REALLY low flow with the 4", somewhere in the 30-32% range maximum airflow.

Columns are time (ms), ECT (şC), RPM, IGN Timing, TPS voltage (4.1 is WOT).
I was blown away when I first read this. Adding 30% fuel but still having a full timing curve.

Then I re-read what you posted in my dyno thread last year about how when you added fuel via the afc, the ecu pulled timing, and of course, the explanation from Nismology. Well, those 440cc injectors you have in there now keep the pulse width low, so you'll have full timing no matter how much fuel you have to add via afc. After all, the afc just sits in between the maf and ecu, and it's not going to send a signal to the ecu that is out of the normal parameters. It just adjusts the maf signal (within the normal voltage range) so the ecu knows how much air is coming in.

post #11
http://forums.maxima.org/dyno-discus...-bolt-ons.html

This little revelation is really making me want to get some larger injectors and go back to the dyno. If my car is making 40-50 or so more whp than stock, then I'm sure my injectors are approaching full duty cycle, causing the ecu to hold back timing. I gotta start logging with my cipher to find out where I'm at.

Yeah, I know I'm a little late to the party, but the light bulb finally went off in my head.

Thanks for all of your field testing and experimentation. Very informative.

Last edited by mikehawk; 07-27-2013 at 11:33 AM.
Old 11-24-2015 | 07:36 PM
  #35  
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Im about to install my 4 inch intake from Douglas (CGR) and he mentionned me to set my in/setting for the maf translation to 4in/4out!?!...Arent we suppose to be 1in and another value to "out" to translate the maf voltage correctly. Ive read that some use 17out and 26out on their SAFC but it seems that the vafc2 maf values are not the same as safc's...Someone (specially Nmexmax) can light me up on this??
Old 11-24-2015 | 07:38 PM
  #36  
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by the way, I also plan on installing 440's but I want to have a baseline startup maf value to drive up to my tuner's dyno before installing the bigger injectors.
Old 11-25-2015 | 09:34 AM
  #37  
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1/17 (in/out) settings for SAFC II i what I use, and I would get 560's over the 440's, just recently changed mine to that. Also, your stock injectors wont be able to handle that much correction since it's nill above say +30% or so using the SAFCII.

If you have a WB w/ live readout, you should be fine installing the injectors prior to dynoing. IMO, it's pointless to dyno with stock injectors since you will end up changing the, and ultimately changing everything along with them like timing and corr%.

Last edited by NmexMAX; 11-25-2015 at 09:37 AM.
Old 03-24-2016 | 07:43 PM
  #38  
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I settled for OEM R35 injectors that I got for a great deal. Along with 4inch intake, I've spoken to Moncef about that and he told the correction factors are more or less 5% from what a good baseline map would resemble. Time for the snow to melt and get that wideband plugged. UR crank pulley, new belts, coilovers and tires are the next step
Old 03-25-2016 | 06:37 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by VQ'ed
I settled for OEM R35 injectors that I got for a great deal. Along with 4inch intake, I've spoken to Moncef about that and he told the correction factors are more or less 5% from what a good baseline map would resemble. Time for the snow to melt and get that wideband plugged. UR crank pulley, new belts, coilovers and tires are the next step
Sounds like you're about to start really enjoying your Max. :-D
Old 03-28-2016 | 08:01 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by VQ'ed
I settled for OEM R35 injectors that I got for a great deal. Along with 4inch intake, I've spoken to Moncef about that and he told the correction factors are more or less 5% from what a good baseline map would resemble. Time for the snow to melt and get that wideband plugged. UR crank pulley, new belts, coilovers and tires are the next step
Using a SAFC maybe for part throttle yes, but WOT, mine still needed more than that (10-12%) for 13.0 - 13.5.

That's also considering I'm @ 7000' elevation so less air up here, so you might need even more.



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