Need to run mid to low 14's
#1
Need to run mid to low 14's
Hey guys just picked up a 2000 slightly modded, berk intake, custom cat back, not sure if it has a tune or not. I'm trying to run mid to low 14's and wonder what it will take. Going with boost or no2 is not an option... a/c is already stripped, looking into weight reductions as well. It's not my primary daily driver so i can play around . Wondering what makes these cars a little more peppy... throttle bodies off other vehichles etc, trying to do this on a budget. I'm used to the high displacement chevy's and ford's but they're pretty straight forward. ANy cheap mods/ advice are appreciated. Looking into headers and a y pipe just not sure where to buy or what brand is the best bang for the buck.
Cars a vq30dek with the 5spd, coil overs, trunk stripped, radio and speakers stripped, a/c stripped, 18" alloys with 40 series tires
Cars a vq30dek with the 5spd, coil overs, trunk stripped, radio and speakers stripped, a/c stripped, 18" alloys with 40 series tires
#2
dump the 18s and go with stock 16s or 17s...much lighter.
Remove rear seat
Run with 1/4 tank of premium
Ensure all maintenance is up to date.
Figure out if you've got fed or cali spec (search forum on how) and stay away from OBX headers (fitment is terrible apparently). If you've got some $$ CATTMAN is the way to go. Y pipe is the best bang for the buck mod with the 3.0 motor...you can get a Y pipe only if you wish...Warpspeed, Cattman..
Remove rear seat
Run with 1/4 tank of premium
Ensure all maintenance is up to date.
Figure out if you've got fed or cali spec (search forum on how) and stay away from OBX headers (fitment is terrible apparently). If you've got some $$ CATTMAN is the way to go. Y pipe is the best bang for the buck mod with the 3.0 motor...you can get a Y pipe only if you wish...Warpspeed, Cattman..
#5
Hey guys just picked up a 2000 slightly modded, berk intake, custom cat back, not sure if it has a tune or not. I'm trying to run mid to low 14's and wonder what it will take. Going with boost or no2 is not an option... a/c is already stripped, looking into weight reductions as well. It's not my primary daily driver so i can play around . Wondering what makes these cars a little more peppy... throttle bodies off other vehichles etc, trying to do this on a budget. I'm used to the high displacement chevy's and ford's but they're pretty straight forward. ANy cheap mods/ advice are appreciated. Looking into headers and a y pipe just not sure where to buy or what brand is the best bang for the buck.
Cars a vq30dek with the 5spd, coil overs, trunk stripped, radio and speakers stripped, a/c stripped, 18" alloys with 40 series tires
Cars a vq30dek with the 5spd, coil overs, trunk stripped, radio and speakers stripped, a/c stripped, 18" alloys with 40 series tires
Sell the car and buy an 02-03 6 speed, done...
But seriously, I would definitely try to pick up some headers/y-pipe. If your looking into weight reduction then go ahead and go to town on it and that will help you quite a bit. Definitely get some lighter wheels with some good tires and I would think that should get you where you want to be fairly easily.
#6
dump the 18s and go with stock 16s or 17s...much lighter.
Remove rear seat
Run with 1/4 tank of premium
Ensure all maintenance is up to date.
Figure out if you've got fed or cali spec (search forum on how) and stay away from OBX headers (fitment is terrible apparently). If you've got some $$ CATTMAN is the way to go. Y pipe is the best bang for the buck mod with the 3.0 motor...you can get a Y pipe only if you wish...Warpspeed, Cattman..
Remove rear seat
Run with 1/4 tank of premium
Ensure all maintenance is up to date.
Figure out if you've got fed or cali spec (search forum on how) and stay away from OBX headers (fitment is terrible apparently). If you've got some $$ CATTMAN is the way to go. Y pipe is the best bang for the buck mod with the 3.0 motor...you can get a Y pipe only if you wish...Warpspeed, Cattman..
The 95-99 OBX headers require cutting and welding. the 00-03 are the 'good' ones - at most they only need the crossmember and rear motor mount shield trimmed. Some get away with no modifications, the few sets I installed needed only crossmember trimmings.
Y pipe is best bang for buck mod on 4th gens, and only a few 5th gens that don't have the big fat precat on the front exhaust manifold. Otherwise headers are the way to go. 00-03 OBX headers get my vote.
#7
Good to know the 5th gen OBX are better at least.
#9
Just went out for some 0-60 runs to get a baseline and i'm pulling 7.5 to 7.8 terrible, the 40 series tires are spinning off the line and into second... theyre 225/40/18's so i dont know if it's throwing off my speedo too. What came stock on the car? motor trend had these things running just under 7 stock.. i know theyre not always spot on but i should be doing a little better than i am. I have to learn to launch it and doing the shifting and all that while holding the phone to time it is a little tricky lol. I also put regular gas in it i guess i'll try premium.
looks like i have my work cut out for me... i thought it'd do better it pulls pretty damn good from a rolling start in second.
Wheres the best place to pick up the y-pipe? I'm sure im not cali spec
looks like i have my work cut out for me... i thought it'd do better it pulls pretty damn good from a rolling start in second.
Wheres the best place to pick up the y-pipe? I'm sure im not cali spec
#11
If you're at Bandemire or ABQ speedway, kiss that low 14 second goodbye without major mods.
And please, for the love of God, do some research. All the questions you've asked so far have been answered.
Also, this place isn't for the faint of heart, you just asked where to get a y-pipe in the AM forum,
And please, for the love of God, do some research. All the questions you've asked so far have been answered.
Also, this place isn't for the faint of heart, you just asked where to get a y-pipe in the AM forum,
#12
If you're at Bandemire or ABQ speedway, kiss that low 14 second goodbye without major mods.
And please, for the love of God, do some research. All the questions you've asked so far have been answered.
Also, this place isn't for the faint of heart, you just asked where to get a y-pipe in the AM forum,
And please, for the love of God, do some research. All the questions you've asked so far have been answered.
Also, this place isn't for the faint of heart, you just asked where to get a y-pipe in the AM forum,
#13
Figured i could sneak that question in while i was at it . Just trying to get an idea of what it takes to break the low 14 barrier. I've been searching around and read alot of stuff on the 3.5 swap,
not sure i want to toy with that yet. I'll run this 3.0 til it gives up.
not sure i want to toy with that yet. I'll run this 3.0 til it gives up.
Originally Posted by spnkr2000
A y-pipe is on the list and headers.
Originally Posted by spnkr2000
I figure a little weight reduction and higher profile tires up front with the exhaust mods and i'll be closer...
Originally Posted by spnkr2000
so my next question would be what are the cam options for the 3.0? I've seen some talk of 3.5 heads on the 3.0 block and some guys say yay while others say nay... whats the verdict out on that?
Bolt ons will get you where you need if you want low 14's.
After that, then toy around with the heads/cam deal.
A well tuned DEK with bolt ons, weight reduction and lightweight wheels.tires/traction will do high 13's all day, assuming friendly DA's (0-1200').
#14
Get rid of those awful wheels and tires. You will get no traction and they are way too heavy.
Then before you mod, go to the track and get some runs in.
The most important thing you can do is learn how to drive it. To get the best times, you need to slip the clutch from high rpms (5000ish), almost bang redline on every gear (which means don't shift to 4th).
Then I would say add y-pipe and cold air intake. I say that because of cost. headers are expensive.
I could pretty consistently run 14.5s on the stock SE 17s on 225/50s (i.e. heavy), ypipe, cai, stock cat-back.
I would also tell you to look at your crossmember mounts. The rear is probably shot. Changing them out for ES or even replacing will do a lot to keep the motor from rocking back in forth, prevent wheel hop, which will in turn make it easier for you to drive the car.
Then before you mod, go to the track and get some runs in.
The most important thing you can do is learn how to drive it. To get the best times, you need to slip the clutch from high rpms (5000ish), almost bang redline on every gear (which means don't shift to 4th).
Then I would say add y-pipe and cold air intake. I say that because of cost. headers are expensive.
I could pretty consistently run 14.5s on the stock SE 17s on 225/50s (i.e. heavy), ypipe, cai, stock cat-back.
I would also tell you to look at your crossmember mounts. The rear is probably shot. Changing them out for ES or even replacing will do a lot to keep the motor from rocking back in forth, prevent wheel hop, which will in turn make it easier for you to drive the car.
Last edited by Max_Gator; 05-20-2013 at 10:20 AM.
#17
Nothing OEM. For that brake upgrade, you'll need to go aftermarket or stock wheels with decent size spacers. Mazda Millennia wheels used to be a favorite, but your brakes are too big for them.
My Motegi traklites were 14.3 lbs each, saved about 12.5% MPG, and weighed in at 36 pounds per corner, which is 2 pounds lighter than my 15x6's 4th gen GLE's in 205-65's
My Motegi traklites were 14.3 lbs each, saved about 12.5% MPG, and weighed in at 36 pounds per corner, which is 2 pounds lighter than my 15x6's 4th gen GLE's in 205-65's
#18
Did some more 0-60 runs... learning how to launch it lol im used to rwd cars. This thing would be awesome if it was but anyways, pulling mid to high 6's which isn't too bad. Found it better to just keep your foot into the throttle between 1st & 2nd gear. It's just getting it to hook off the line is a *****.. 40 series tires do suck in that respect. Headers will be ordered on the 15th. I'm thinking of the $225 on ebay. I'd go for the obx's but i dont know how low they hang? If it's not below the crossmember in the front i'm game.
As far as what gas to run i can't decide, with the temps different everyday it's hard to tell. I've run 87 and had it feel real torqey but at the same time it seems to run smoother on the higher grades. I know you want to run the lowest octane possible without getting any detonation and retarding timing. Popular thing to do on the chevy's and fords is run a lower temp thermostat and "colder" plugs and they make better power in the hot weather. I've only heard good things about ngk's platinums in this car and haven't seen anything on different temp thermostats?
As far as what gas to run i can't decide, with the temps different everyday it's hard to tell. I've run 87 and had it feel real torqey but at the same time it seems to run smoother on the higher grades. I know you want to run the lowest octane possible without getting any detonation and retarding timing. Popular thing to do on the chevy's and fords is run a lower temp thermostat and "colder" plugs and they make better power in the hot weather. I've only heard good things about ngk's platinums in this car and haven't seen anything on different temp thermostats?
#19
Get rid of those awful wheels and tires. You will get no traction and they are way too heavy.
Then before you mod, go to the track and get some runs in.
The most important thing you can do is learn how to drive it. To get the best times, you need to slip the clutch from high rpms (5000ish), almost bang redline on every gear (which means don't shift to 4th).
Then I would say add y-pipe and cold air intake. I say that because of cost. headers are expensive.
I could pretty consistently run 14.5s on the stock SE 17s on 225/50s (i.e. heavy), ypipe, cai, stock cat-back.
I would also tell you to look at your crossmember mounts. The rear is probably shot. Changing them out for ES or even replacing will do a lot to keep the motor from rocking back in forth, prevent wheel hop, which will in turn make it easier for you to drive the car.
Then before you mod, go to the track and get some runs in.
The most important thing you can do is learn how to drive it. To get the best times, you need to slip the clutch from high rpms (5000ish), almost bang redline on every gear (which means don't shift to 4th).
Then I would say add y-pipe and cold air intake. I say that because of cost. headers are expensive.
I could pretty consistently run 14.5s on the stock SE 17s on 225/50s (i.e. heavy), ypipe, cai, stock cat-back.
I would also tell you to look at your crossmember mounts. The rear is probably shot. Changing them out for ES or even replacing will do a lot to keep the motor from rocking back in forth, prevent wheel hop, which will in turn make it easier for you to drive the car.
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