OK for those who were reading following original article can be found here: http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...hr-hybrid.html

After a break I attempted to get her going again. I keep having sealing issues even after going back to the HR head gaskets. Now it spits white smoke out the fron and rear banks on the exhaust side, could be from the way that the cooling paths in HR gaskets are designed. I was pretty paranoid from first two attempts when I was using Cometic head gaskets, so this time I sprayed the HR gaskets with this stuff called hylomar universal blue, because I read around and seemed like a solution. On this last go, with the HR pistons and HR cams it was hitting 215-225 psi on a compression test. I know stock is 180 psi with 14 psi max differential allowed between cylinders. I will try this one more time without hylomar and see what happens.
Here is a list of things done so far:
Head/block decked total 0.012"
HR pistons shaved on quench pad areas about 0.01"
HR head gaskets
HR head bolts
HR cams redrilled to 3.0 timing
This will be my last attempt at doing this. If I fail again, I will just put the 3.0 back in. Hey at least i was able to get a 00vi for cheap at the junkyard.

 

This is going to be fun.

 

I think you're the one who commented on my YouTube video. Your compression #s are higher than normal, I'm not sure why that is. But I'm confident that your clearances are still fine.

 

Yea that was me
Got both motors out now, just cleaning up the old one.
I'm thinking about putting the old one back in much less headaches. Shame that 3.5 was kinda nice. Had the HR valevtrain and all. I did get oil on the headgasket from last rebuild when I was oiling the head bolts but I don't think that would have caused the latest failure but then again who knows. I was using HR headbolts and they are supposedly 3mm longer than regular de bolts but I don't think they bottomed out.

 

Do DE head gaskets, ARP VQ35DE headstuds, HR valvetrain.

 

Any info on this anywhere???? Last time I checked you went against drilling them.

 

Why DE head gaskets and not HR again? And don't ARP need to be retorqued or not for our application?

I got them redrilled on the under. I didnt post about it on the last thread sorry!

 

hr gaskets work on a de,now the hr bolts maybe not remeber hr block is a little longer maybe the reason for longer studs and only arp LP19 have to be retorqued.

 

Why? What? And how?

 

You have to mod the block for HR headgaskets to work. Dont just toss them on there it could cause issues. But unless you are a frequent vistor to the road course, NOT DRAG STRIP then the HR headgasket is overkill. The benefit of running it is it runs cooler when RPMs are higher than when they are lower.

Personally if i were just building a street car unless its a high tolerance car on boost i wouldn't bother I would just use a DE Headgasket w/350Z thermostat and keep it moving.

 

^ this

 

Wait isn't there a simple how to on JWT's website?

Wait nvm, I don't even care about this current motor build.

But for future reference, am I right? Cause I am a guy who frequents the road course.

 

ON the JWT site it states that HR headbolts are an upgrade due to tensile strength. I already modded the block for more coolant flow. I like the added preloader ring on the chambers.
I'm just putting in the 3.0 with 00vi for now, i don't have the time for another rebuild-my parents want their garage back. Oh yea, one more thing is that i accidentaly contaminated the HR Head gaskets with oil before tightening the heads down, because of the headbolts being coated with oil and where the oil was so was the leak, so maybe that contributed.

 

I dont name names but a pretty reputable .Org member redrilled them for me perhaps that's what made the compression numbers so high..

 

Look up StreetzLegend build, he did the block mod and is running an HR headgasket. A few other people have done it i cant remember how off the top of my head except Greymax he has also done it.

 

Strange.

In my experience HR cams do not need to be drilled/modified to be used on 3.0 timing.

Car this information was based on did 180-190 (except the bad cylinder we found after the fact due to a spun bearing... Unless undrilled HR cams = spun bearings) across the board on compression.

 

Maybe I'm nit understanding. Why not just do a 09 Maxima motor swap?

 

^ People don't have $$$ for dat 'ish!

 

Thanks aackshun for the advise. Oh and reason I didnt just buy the HR motor is because I already bought a 3.0 prepped 3.5 for $1200, and the freight company dropped my motor. I did a leakdown and it seemed kinda leaky. so I figured I rebuild it and around that time I got the HR cams, pistons, and HR valvetrain (springs and shims) for like $160 for it all. So I think I saved a crapload of cash right there... figured what the hell I'd at least attempt it.
My parents said they'll let me ripper apart again But I have the 3.0 installed and doing the 00vi intake tomorrow.
Oh, If I got OIL on the headgaskes where the newer HR coolant paths are on the exhaust sides, will this cause the head not to seal properly? I figured all the torque would sqweeze out all the oil out but apparently it might have been hydroplanuing on the block. That's gotta be it. Im gonna also measure the depth to make sure the HR bolts didnt bottom out its doubtfull but Im doing it anyway.