Finally have time to post up some of my 2014 projects.

95-01 5spd VLSD rebuild (open diff part numbers too)

I've rebuilt 8+ or so 5spd open/VLSDs
Converted plenty of 6spds to HLSD/spec-V 6spd swaps..
so it's not a big deal for me to undertake something like this in a week.

I usually work thru and don't stop to take pictures, so here's some pics I was able to snap in between working/breaks.

This is not a guide by any means, just familiarizes you with what is involved.


This is not a job for someone who doesn't have intermediate/advanced wrenching skills - so you've been warned..

it took me a week to disassemble my first 5spd back in 2005, now ~3 hours.

if you are not familiar with how a manual transmission works internally, or are not confident in your abilities or can't deal with issues when issues arise - leave this job for someone who knows it well.

I did not show the disassembly of shift forks/pins/how to set the check ball system/reverse gear/proper way to re-shim new bearings
and other complex parts of rebuild, so once again this is NOT a how-to guide in any form or shape - I'm just posting pics of my progress.


BEARINGS SEALS PART NUMBERS

All ordered from Nissan = NACHI/NSK/NTN high quality Japanese bearings.
I've seen cheap kits with unknown bearing brands (made in china) and would not recommend using them due to the questionable quality of bearings

Input shaft bearing 1 - 32203-03E13
Input shaft bearing 2 - 32203-03E00
Main shaft bearing 1 - 32273-79E00
Main shaft bearing 2 - 32223-79E62
Pass side diff bearing (open diff - 2X) - 38440-96E00
VLSD driver side diff bearing (EXPENSIVE) - 38440-79E01
Input shaft seal - 32113-03E00
Shifter yoke seal - 32858-03E00
pass side axle seal - 38342-81X01
VLSD driver axle seal - 38342-51E00
open diff driver axle seal - 38342-81X00


how do you know if you have open diff or VLSD (the dumb way - look at the transmission)

if axle seal is small = open diff (left)
if axle seal is large = VLSD (right)



now that you know what transmission you have you can get the proper seals/bearings.. not gonna be cheap (VLSD bearings are ~$450)


onto the pictures:

starting disassembly


cover is Off


Shift forks, main/input shafts and diff is out


OLD bearings off


OLD bearing leftovers


Shift yoke out


Cases cleaned


Yoke with new seal and boot in


New bearings pressed on


assembled and sealed (need to swap speed sensor)


old tranny out


VLSD tranny going in


NEW axles, NEW throw out bearing


and that's all.. fun times y0!!

If anyone remembers MAXUS09
I broke a shift fork on my 5spd during the last pass at MIR (shifting into 4th).
Drove back to hotel in 4th gear only, pulled my trans out in hotel parking lot to find what broke inside
I got a blown tranny brought by ghostmax/i2vicious for parts (BIG Thanks again MD guys, and to NWP Aaron for the mat and jack I borrowed!!!)
I took that blown tranny apart for the part I needed, fixed my trans with it, put it back into the max, and drove all the way back to NYC.
..fun times y0..

 

Awesome thanks! I can't believe the hotel was cool with u pulling the tranny in their lot LOL that's mad skills. Or maybe they didnt know...

 

hey how did you get those bearings off, it looks like you mangled them badly did you have to grind them off?? I have to change my input shaft bearing and am prepping to do this soon.. any input would be awesome..

 

Would this OEM 5speed be stronger than say a regular 5speed w/ a Quaife diff?

 

^lol no. 3rd gear is just weak on 5spd. So unless you are changing the gears to stronger gear or cryo treat them its are going to be weak VLSD or not. In terms of Diffs the VLSD is said to be stronger than the Open diff but that is just the diff not the actual gears but i have never heard of a a broken Diff on a 5spd so that would be the least of my worries.

If your getting a Quaife diff, your diff will be much stronger but the gears will still be weak. unless you rebuild it with lets say a PPG gearset, IIRC check the B14/B13 forums for part numbers since there transmissions are essentially identical.

In the end unless you plan to go over 400whp where you need to build a transmission regardless, just get a HLSD 6spd.

 

Nice to see I'm not the only one working on one of these in 2015!

Can you please tell me if you found an easy way (or any way) to remove the R-pin from the case at the beginning of dis-assembly?