releasedtruth

Hey audio gurus, some advice needed. My new max is a 2K1 GXE so it's got the booty system all the way around. I wanted to do it in stages, but it looks like I may have to drop the whole system in at once. Here's the setup

Alpine CDA-7893 ground down bracket for flush mount
Audiobahn A2801Q and A4601Q amps
Audiobahn Alum10q subs
BA 6.5 components
BA RM6 in the rear doors

I don't want to put in the speakers until I can string the amps up (only one purchased so far)

How hard is it to put in the components with the lack of a hole in the A pillar at the moment?

Will the Alpine deck blow out the stock speakers real easily or should I wait and do it all at once (big monies)?

Where can I pull through the 4gauge and the power cable from the deck to the battery?

I'd really like to not blow everything up if I don't have to. Well, maybe blow it up once I don't need it anymore


Thanks all

Y2KMaxGXE-R

iTrader: (4)

no guru here but will answer anyway. My opinion is that you won't blow stock speakers right away, but only a short time after. It doesn't matter if you install the whole system right away or H/U first.

Unlikely you will be able to sell your stock speakers, but you may want to keep them in case you decide to sell your car and return to stock. Then just hold out and replace everything all together

jmax

1) How hard is it to put in the components with the lack of a hole in the A pillar at the moment?

- It's not hard. Many install the tweet in the triangle piece inside of the mirrors. It's called the sail panel. Another easy install is the tweeter by itself in a kick panel location.

Will the Alpine deck blow out the stock speakers real easily or should I wait and do it all at once (big monies)?

- I don't the alpine will blow the stock speakers easilly, especially if you don't turn it up to distortion levels.

Where can I pull through the 4gauge and the power cable from the deck to the battery?

- I don't have a 5th gen, so can't say. In the 4th gen there is supposed to be a place where it can come throught the fender. But I found it much easier to drill a hole. That way the wire is where it needs to be without unneeded bends, and extra cable length.

Y2KMaxGXE-R

iTrader: (4)

JMAX can I also ask you a question

I am getting either one of those three:
Pioneer DEH-P740MP or DEH-P840MP (22RMSx4) or Alpine CDA-7894 (27RMSx4)

and my choice of speakers are

Infinity Reference (50w RMS) or Kappa (90w RMS)components up front
Infinity Reference (50w RMS) 6.5 2-ways or Kappa (90w RMS) 2-ways in the back

In the back I run 2 10" subs with 500w amp.

which speakers would you recommend going with, considering that my budget is very tight? I do not want to end up buying an amp for speakers as well, as it may require add'l purchase of stronger battery, capacitator? Thanks

releasedtruth

Thanks for the info guys. A new deck would be pretty sweet a start. The Alpine is pretty powerful for a deck, but I'll feed the new speakers the good amped sound. The factories, eh, no big loss really. My T-bird has such a sweet system it hurts to drive the max right now

jmax

Sorry, forgot to mention that I also am not a guru. I haven't met a guru yet. But I keep my eyes open for one.

Headunits are pretty much cosmetics. There are some features on each brand that may or may not make one more attractive than another. But both Pioneer and Alpine are generally high quality, dependable brands.
Speakers, you have to go with what sounds good to you. I know you hate to hear that, but it's the truth. Speakers will have slightly different tone and variations of flat response. What sounds like the real thing to you, might not to me. But they are going to be in your car, that you could put hundreds of thousands of miles on. So get something that sounds good to you.
You won't need a better battery. I have been using my stock battery for probably a year now, plus over a year when I first bought the car. It's a matter of the fact that I havn't gotten around to building a custom mount for my Westco battery. I might build it next week, or maybe not. If I needed the huge battery in my car, it would be there. The fact is that it really isn't needed so long as the engine is running. Since I first started using a capacitor over two years ago, I wouldn't want to not have one. What it does for reducing the load on the rest of the electrical system - battery, wiring and alternator - is worth it's weight in gold. Well, maybe not gold, but you get the point.

releasedtruth

If you run enough power through the system you may want to take the dip and buy a 1 farad cap, but I've found that with a quality battery, the cap is irrelevant as long as you aren't running over 700 watts of power. I have a more grande alternator in the T-bird though, pushes 150 amps so that probably helps. The max isn't a big alternator is it?

I'll be tapping into at least 800 watts once the system goes in. I'm doing a custom trunk install and need some ideas. I have a stealth idea with a motorized panel which I could make, but the amp mounting seems a little bit of a pain in the poorly carpeted trunk.

Y2KMaxGXE-R

iTrader: (4)

custom trunk install is my end of summer-fall project. Do you have a Tweeter store near you? They have catalogs for custom enclosures for 4th gen. Just take a look at that, very clean, and you will retain access to spare and pass-through to seats. I want to mold smtgh that is very clean and store 1 10" or 12" on each side of the trunk and be hidden.

releasedtruth

Anyone know if they make 5th gen stealth boxes or if they will? I'd love to get something custom. A friend of mine does fiberglass work, but a nice stealth box would work nicely