Getting rid of the Bose system, need advice.
08-06-2002, 02:36 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 2,208
Getting rid of the Bose system, need advice.
Searching in the audio forum seems a little more difficult than the other forums so I'll just start a new thread.
I have a 92 SE w/ Bose. I want to install a new HU (Pioneer DEH-P6400), new speakers (Infinity Reference 6x9's in the back and Infinity Reference 5.25 components up front), and I also have a 600 watt 4 channel amp just sitting here in my room. When its time to install all of these items what kind of problems may I run into? Since I'm getting a new HU and speakers will I even have to worry about the Bose amp? Any helpful advice is appreciated, thanks guys.
I have a 92 SE w/ Bose. I want to install a new HU (Pioneer DEH-P6400), new speakers (Infinity Reference 6x9's in the back and Infinity Reference 5.25 components up front), and I also have a 600 watt 4 channel amp just sitting here in my room. When its time to install all of these items what kind of problems may I run into? Since I'm getting a new HU and speakers will I even have to worry about the Bose amp? Any helpful advice is appreciated, thanks guys.
08-07-2002, 07:07 AM
#2
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 7
Replacing your bose
Pez,
I did the same thing in my '90 SE 11 years ago. Here's what I remember to be the PITA items:
1.) Running power to the amp direct from the battery. Could not find a convenient place (read: existing hole) in the firewall to run my 2 x 10 AWG leads. Ran them instead through the fender and then through a small opening by the driver's kick panel. Requires removing the wheel and inner plastic fender lining.
2.) Running new speaker leads to the front doors. I installed a component set, so I needed to run two pairs to each door (crossovers mounted by the amp in the trunk). I tried to run the wire inside the rubber casing that all the door wire harness run through, but it was way too tight. Wound up running the wire along this piece, with wireties holding it in place. You will need to poke holes in the boot at the door and at the body to run the wires through. Do not install your crossovers in the door; this environment is too nasty (wet and dirty).
3.) Mounting the amp. I originally mounted my amp to my sub box, but if I ever needed to remove the sub for large cargo, the amp went too, and no tunes. So I made a board to mount inbetween the wheel well and the tailights, tapping into some existing bracketry. I bought an extra trunk carpet to wrap my sub box in, so I used a scrap to cover the board. End result looked rather professional. Since then, I have done several installs in other vehicles, and I recommend mounting the amp under the front passenger seat if it will fit. Makes it a lot easier to run your cables from the head unit, and I just zip tie it to the carpet (small holes in the carpet with a razor knife).
4.) Mounting the door speakers. Because of the queer shape (and shallow depth) of the hole in the doors, I made a wooden ring to mount my 5 1/4's in. Raised the speaker about 1/2 out of door to clear the window. Then I cut 1" holes in the top of the door panel to flush mount the tweeters. Not really that difficult.
General notes: Do not use any of the existing speaker wire. If your Bose is like mine, the whole "amp in the speaker" thing confuses the issue. Purchase a wire harness adapter ahead of time and wire up your head unit. You can also run your heavy gauge amp leads ahead of time too. But make sure to fuse it by the battery and leave the fuse out until your amp is installed.
Feel free to ask me any specific questions.
BTW I am retiring my '90 SE with 380k on her. Is there something you need?
KJ
I did the same thing in my '90 SE 11 years ago. Here's what I remember to be the PITA items:
1.) Running power to the amp direct from the battery. Could not find a convenient place (read: existing hole) in the firewall to run my 2 x 10 AWG leads. Ran them instead through the fender and then through a small opening by the driver's kick panel. Requires removing the wheel and inner plastic fender lining.
2.) Running new speaker leads to the front doors. I installed a component set, so I needed to run two pairs to each door (crossovers mounted by the amp in the trunk). I tried to run the wire inside the rubber casing that all the door wire harness run through, but it was way too tight. Wound up running the wire along this piece, with wireties holding it in place. You will need to poke holes in the boot at the door and at the body to run the wires through. Do not install your crossovers in the door; this environment is too nasty (wet and dirty).
3.) Mounting the amp. I originally mounted my amp to my sub box, but if I ever needed to remove the sub for large cargo, the amp went too, and no tunes. So I made a board to mount inbetween the wheel well and the tailights, tapping into some existing bracketry. I bought an extra trunk carpet to wrap my sub box in, so I used a scrap to cover the board. End result looked rather professional. Since then, I have done several installs in other vehicles, and I recommend mounting the amp under the front passenger seat if it will fit. Makes it a lot easier to run your cables from the head unit, and I just zip tie it to the carpet (small holes in the carpet with a razor knife).
4.) Mounting the door speakers. Because of the queer shape (and shallow depth) of the hole in the doors, I made a wooden ring to mount my 5 1/4's in. Raised the speaker about 1/2 out of door to clear the window. Then I cut 1" holes in the top of the door panel to flush mount the tweeters. Not really that difficult.
General notes: Do not use any of the existing speaker wire. If your Bose is like mine, the whole "amp in the speaker" thing confuses the issue. Purchase a wire harness adapter ahead of time and wire up your head unit. You can also run your heavy gauge amp leads ahead of time too. But make sure to fuse it by the battery and leave the fuse out until your amp is installed.
Feel free to ask me any specific questions.
BTW I am retiring my '90 SE with 380k on her. Is there something you need?
KJ
08-07-2002, 10:07 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 2,208
Re: Replacing your bose
Originally posted by kejace
Pez,
I did the same thing in my '90 SE 11 years ago. Here's what I remember to be the PITA items:
1.) Running power to the amp direct from the battery. Could not find a convenient place (read: existing hole) in the firewall to run my 2 x 10 AWG leads. Ran them instead through the fender and then through a small opening by the driver's kick panel. Requires removing the wheel and inner plastic fender lining.
2.) Running new speaker leads to the front doors. I installed a component set, so I needed to run two pairs to each door (crossovers mounted by the amp in the trunk). I tried to run the wire inside the rubber casing that all the door wire harness run through, but it was way too tight. Wound up running the wire along this piece, with wireties holding it in place. You will need to poke holes in the boot at the door and at the body to run the wires through. Do not install your crossovers in the door; this environment is too nasty (wet and dirty).
3.) Mounting the amp. I originally mounted my amp to my sub box, but if I ever needed to remove the sub for large cargo, the amp went too, and no tunes. So I made a board to mount inbetween the wheel well and the tailights, tapping into some existing bracketry. I bought an extra trunk carpet to wrap my sub box in, so I used a scrap to cover the board. End result looked rather professional. Since then, I have done several installs in other vehicles, and I recommend mounting the amp under the front passenger seat if it will fit. Makes it a lot easier to run your cables from the head unit, and I just zip tie it to the carpet (small holes in the carpet with a razor knife).
4.) Mounting the door speakers. Because of the queer shape (and shallow depth) of the hole in the doors, I made a wooden ring to mount my 5 1/4's in. Raised the speaker about 1/2 out of door to clear the window. Then I cut 1" holes in the top of the door panel to flush mount the tweeters. Not really that difficult.
General notes: Do not use any of the existing speaker wire. If your Bose is like mine, the whole "amp in the speaker" thing confuses the issue. Purchase a wire harness adapter ahead of time and wire up your head unit. You can also run your heavy gauge amp leads ahead of time too. But make sure to fuse it by the battery and leave the fuse out until your amp is installed.
Feel free to ask me any specific questions.
BTW I am retiring my '90 SE with 380k on her. Is there something you need?
KJ
Pez,
I did the same thing in my '90 SE 11 years ago. Here's what I remember to be the PITA items:
1.) Running power to the amp direct from the battery. Could not find a convenient place (read: existing hole) in the firewall to run my 2 x 10 AWG leads. Ran them instead through the fender and then through a small opening by the driver's kick panel. Requires removing the wheel and inner plastic fender lining.
2.) Running new speaker leads to the front doors. I installed a component set, so I needed to run two pairs to each door (crossovers mounted by the amp in the trunk). I tried to run the wire inside the rubber casing that all the door wire harness run through, but it was way too tight. Wound up running the wire along this piece, with wireties holding it in place. You will need to poke holes in the boot at the door and at the body to run the wires through. Do not install your crossovers in the door; this environment is too nasty (wet and dirty).
3.) Mounting the amp. I originally mounted my amp to my sub box, but if I ever needed to remove the sub for large cargo, the amp went too, and no tunes. So I made a board to mount inbetween the wheel well and the tailights, tapping into some existing bracketry. I bought an extra trunk carpet to wrap my sub box in, so I used a scrap to cover the board. End result looked rather professional. Since then, I have done several installs in other vehicles, and I recommend mounting the amp under the front passenger seat if it will fit. Makes it a lot easier to run your cables from the head unit, and I just zip tie it to the carpet (small holes in the carpet with a razor knife).
4.) Mounting the door speakers. Because of the queer shape (and shallow depth) of the hole in the doors, I made a wooden ring to mount my 5 1/4's in. Raised the speaker about 1/2 out of door to clear the window. Then I cut 1" holes in the top of the door panel to flush mount the tweeters. Not really that difficult.
General notes: Do not use any of the existing speaker wire. If your Bose is like mine, the whole "amp in the speaker" thing confuses the issue. Purchase a wire harness adapter ahead of time and wire up your head unit. You can also run your heavy gauge amp leads ahead of time too. But make sure to fuse it by the battery and leave the fuse out until your amp is installed.
Feel free to ask me any specific questions.
BTW I am retiring my '90 SE with 380k on her. Is there something you need?
KJ
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