JL amps VS Alpine amps???
08-14-2002, 06:11 PM
#3
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I have never had an alpine amp fail. Even when bridged below warranteed impedance. The alpine has gives total control over the sub. But if they were the same price it would be tough to decide. I would probably resort to installation flexibility, etc. The JL 4 channel will most likly give you 75 watts by 4 channels. I am unsure how powerful the alpine is into 4 channels.
08-14-2002, 07:15 PM
#7
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Originally posted by nismo240sx
im referring more to the fact that they dont really give clear specs on power output, rather than reilability.
eric
im referring more to the fact that they dont really give clear specs on power output, rather than reilability.
eric
http://www.alpine1.com/html/D2_n_1_n_n.html
08-14-2002, 07:35 PM
#8
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Originally posted by jmax
Sorry, I did not realize the black and white text on my screen was not perfectly clear. Is the text on your screen a different shade?
http://www.alpine1.com/html/D2_n_1_n_n.html
Sorry, I did not realize the black and white text on my screen was not perfectly clear. Is the text on your screen a different shade?
http://www.alpine1.com/html/D2_n_1_n_n.html
--Don
08-14-2002, 08:04 PM
#9
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Originally posted by jmax
Sorry, I did not realize the black and white text on my screen was not perfectly clear. Is the text on your screen a different shade?
http://www.alpine1.com/html/D2_n_1_n_n.html
Sorry, I did not realize the black and white text on my screen was not perfectly clear. Is the text on your screen a different shade?
http://www.alpine1.com/html/D2_n_1_n_n.html
okay. i see power ratings, but i see no impedances, and it doesnt tell whether the 500 watts is rms, or what...and it doesnt tell at 4 ohm what the power is, and i see a big "900 watts max"...i dont know of any good amps that are rated in max watts...cuz they dont matter, plus it doesnt give an impedance that the rating is at, though im guessing its 2 ohm. THAT is my reason for not liking the alpine rating system.
i love alpine decks, but i see their amp ratings as shady.
eric
08-14-2002, 08:15 PM
#10
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Originally posted by nismo240sx
okay. i see power ratings, but i see no impedances, and it doesnt tell whether the 500 watts is rms, or what...and it doesnt tell at 4 ohm what the power is, and i see a big "900 watts max"...i dont know of any good amps that are rated in max watts...cuz they dont matter, plus it doesnt give an impedance that the rating is at, though im guessing its 2 ohm. THAT is my reason for not liking the alpine rating system.
i love alpine decks, but i see their amp ratings as shady.
eric
okay. i see power ratings, but i see no impedances, and it doesnt tell whether the 500 watts is rms, or what...and it doesnt tell at 4 ohm what the power is, and i see a big "900 watts max"...i dont know of any good amps that are rated in max watts...cuz they dont matter, plus it doesnt give an impedance that the rating is at, though im guessing its 2 ohm. THAT is my reason for not liking the alpine rating system.
i love alpine decks, but i see their amp ratings as shady.
eric
08-14-2002, 09:23 PM
#12
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Originally posted by jmax
Nismo, have you checked your mail?
Nismo, have you checked your mail?
eric
08-14-2002, 09:37 PM
#13
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Originally posted by nismo240sx
unfortunately, i cant get to my mail b/c our cable modem blewded up...and itll be a few days before i can get to it. if anybody needs to talk to me, im at illusionsnismo@yahoo.com or on aim.
eric
unfortunately, i cant get to my mail b/c our cable modem blewded up...and itll be a few days before i can get to it. if anybody needs to talk to me, im at illusionsnismo@yahoo.com or on aim.
eric
08-16-2002, 05:34 PM
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Re: The alpine is a DIGITAL amp.....
Originally posted by BRIGBOY
It recognizes all impedances. The JL will be outdated in a year when they too sell a digital 500 watt amplifier.
It recognizes all impedances. The JL will be outdated in a year when they too sell a digital 500 watt amplifier.
i dont know why people call them that.
eric
08-16-2002, 05:56 PM
#17
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Re: Re: The alpine is a DIGITAL amp.....
Originally posted by nismo240sx
how will the jl be outdated? amps dont really get outdated...the only reason people have needed to upgrade, was for protection, for more power...and of course crossovers, but almost all amps now come with all 3. plus, THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A DIGITAL AMP!!!
i dont know why people call them that.
eric
how will the jl be outdated? amps dont really get outdated...the only reason people have needed to upgrade, was for protection, for more power...and of course crossovers, but almost all amps now come with all 3. plus, THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A DIGITAL AMP!!!
i dont know why people call them that.
eric
--Don
08-17-2002, 11:39 PM
#22
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Originally posted by nismo240sx
are you guys agreeing, or spamming posts?
eric
are you guys agreeing, or spamming posts?eric
08-18-2002, 05:33 AM
#23
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the JL 500/1 would be better because even if the voltage level in your car drops you will still be pushing 500 watts to the subs.
though having this advantage will csot you a pretty penny.. and please no one respond and say their system is always running at 14.4v
though having this advantage will csot you a pretty penny.. and please no one respond and say their system is always running at 14.4v
08-18-2002, 05:41 AM
#24
To me the voltage regulator is a disadvantage, not an advantage. If I have a good electrical system and I'm running the JL, I still get 500 watts. If I have a different 500 watt amp then obviousdly I'm going to get more power.....
Originally posted by bacid
the JL 500/1 would be better because even if the voltage level in your car drops you will still be pushing 500 watts to the subs.
though having this advantage will csot you a pretty penny.. and please no one respond and say their system is always running at 14.4v
the JL 500/1 would be better because even if the voltage level in your car drops you will still be pushing 500 watts to the subs.
though having this advantage will csot you a pretty penny.. and please no one respond and say their system is always running at 14.4v
08-18-2002, 09:47 AM
#26
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The majority of the time I am listening to music in the car, teh engine speed is close to 3000 RPM. At that engine speed I have between 14.3 and 14.8 volts. After a slight mod that will be made this weekend, it should remain in the 14.7-14.8 range at highway speed. I am not concerned about voltage while crawling around in traffic. The cars ahead, behind, and beside me are what needs 98% of attention so that I will have a car to return home in.
The regulator in the JL amps is a very useful device. But if you can hear a difference, you are wasting your time surfing the net.
The regulator in the JL amps is a very useful device. But if you can hear a difference, you are wasting your time surfing the net.
08-18-2002, 08:05 PM
#28
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all i know is that i have the mrdm-300 in my car and it doesnt draw more than 10 amps of curent and thats why they call it digital i bet the mrdm-500 doesnt draw more than 20 amps on the other hand the jl proboly draws a crap load more than that of course thats because its not digital
08-18-2002, 09:56 PM
#29
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Originally posted by subs1000w
all i know is that i have the mrdm-300 in my car and it doesnt draw more than 10 amps of curent and thats why they call it digital i bet the mrdm-500 doesnt draw more than 20 amps on the other hand the jl proboly draws a crap load more than that of course thats because its not digital
all i know is that i have the mrdm-300 in my car and it doesnt draw more than 10 amps of curent and thats why they call it digital i bet the mrdm-500 doesnt draw more than 20 amps on the other hand the jl proboly draws a crap load more than that of course thats because its not digital
Yea well....I have a ton of LEDs in my car that draw only 10Ma !!!!
--Don
08-18-2002, 10:32 PM
#30
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Originally posted by subs1000w
all i know is that i have the mrdm-300 in my car and it doesnt draw more than 10 amps of curent and thats why they call it digital i bet the mrdm-500 doesnt draw more than 20 amps on the other hand the jl proboly draws a crap load more than that of course thats because its not digital
all i know is that i have the mrdm-300 in my car and it doesnt draw more than 10 amps of curent and thats why they call it digital i bet the mrdm-500 doesnt draw more than 20 amps on the other hand the jl proboly draws a crap load more than that of course thats because its not digital
umm...okay? the 1 channel jl amps ARE class d. they draw power, because they have to in order to put out tons of power. you cant get a 400 watt amp to put out 400 watts, and draw 3.5 amps at 12 volts...it just doesnt work. just look at ohm's law, and youll understand.eric
08-19-2002, 05:59 PM
#31
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well all i know is when i hook my blue piont meter in line with my power cable and the turn the **** up all the way my DMM has never read over 10 amps usualy stays at about 6 to 7 i believe thats why they call the digital amps digital
08-19-2002, 07:25 PM
#32
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Originally posted by subs1000w
well all i know is when i hook my blue piont meter in line with my power cable and the turn the **** up all the way my DMM has never read over 10 amps usualy stays at about 6 to 7 i believe thats why they call the digital amps digital
well all i know is when i hook my blue piont meter in line with my power cable and the turn the **** up all the way my DMM has never read over 10 amps usualy stays at about 6 to 7 i believe thats why they call the digital amps digital
wattage = voltage * amperage
lets assume that your car does 14.4v all the time (it doesnt), and use the 10 amps that it read at maximum, k?
14.4 volts * 10 amps = 144 watts @ 100% efficiency (class d's run about 60% efficiency)
144 watts * 60% efficiency = 86.4 watts...so you are dealing with no more than about 90 watts. my thinking tells me thats probably not the case.
i would be willing to believe if you could show me some data to back you up...but until then, im VERY skeptical.
eric
08-19-2002, 09:08 PM
#33
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Originally posted by nismo240sx
okay...lets see here:
wattage = voltage * amperage
lets assume that your car does 14.4v all the time (it doesnt), and use the 10 amps that it read at maximum, k?
14.4 volts * 10 amps = 144 watts @ 100% efficiency (class d's run about 60% efficiency)
144 watts * 60% efficiency = 86.4 watts...so you are dealing with no more than about 90 watts. my thinking tells me thats probably not the case.
i would be willing to believe if you could show me some data to back you up...but until then, im VERY skeptical.
eric
okay...lets see here:
wattage = voltage * amperage
lets assume that your car does 14.4v all the time (it doesnt), and use the 10 amps that it read at maximum, k?
14.4 volts * 10 amps = 144 watts @ 100% efficiency (class d's run about 60% efficiency)
144 watts * 60% efficiency = 86.4 watts...so you are dealing with no more than about 90 watts. my thinking tells me thats probably not the case.
i would be willing to believe if you could show me some data to back you up...but until then, im VERY skeptical.
eric
08-19-2002, 10:44 PM
#34
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Originally posted by jmax
The fact that amps draw max current very rarely and for very short bursts is the primary reason I never recommend an alternator upgrade.
The fact that amps draw max current very rarely and for very short bursts is the primary reason I never recommend an alternator upgrade.
usamps 2000 - 3000 watts rms @ 2 ohm (rated
)usamps tu4360 - 75 x 4 @ 4 ohm (rated)
eric
08-19-2002, 11:48 PM
#38
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hehe...i hate that.
well, the usamps were reccomended to me by a canadian friend who is going to be running them. he's got TONS of dough invested in audio...home, car, and pro. he owns an audio company too.
the amps i listed are gonna run me a little over 1250 bux...but normally, that pair would run me close to 2k or more.
if it werent for getting a good deal, and coming from somebody who has such an extensive background, i wouldnt have considered them.
eric
well, the usamps were reccomended to me by a canadian friend who is going to be running them. he's got TONS of dough invested in audio...home, car, and pro. he owns an audio company too.
the amps i listed are gonna run me a little over 1250 bux...but normally, that pair would run me close to 2k or more.
if it werent for getting a good deal, and coming from somebody who has such an extensive background, i wouldnt have considered them.
eric
08-19-2002, 11:52 PM
#39
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Originally posted by nismo240sx
hehe...i hate that.
well, the usamps were reccomended to me by a canadian friend who is going to be running them. he's got TONS of dough invested in audio...home, car, and pro. he owns an audio company too.
the amps i listed are gonna run me a little over 1250 bux...but normally, that pair would run me close to 2k or more.
if it werent for getting a good deal, and coming from somebody who has such an extensive background, i wouldnt have considered them.
eric
hehe...i hate that.
well, the usamps were reccomended to me by a canadian friend who is going to be running them. he's got TONS of dough invested in audio...home, car, and pro. he owns an audio company too.
the amps i listed are gonna run me a little over 1250 bux...but normally, that pair would run me close to 2k or more.
if it werent for getting a good deal, and coming from somebody who has such an extensive background, i wouldnt have considered them.
eric
08-20-2002, 08:49 AM
#40
I tend to get a bit irritable
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Just my $.02 here on the USAMPS...I have dealt with them before, quite a while back. They were actually Excelent amps. I believe I had a USA250HC,500, a few others. They were all the high current models. Plexiglass floor, different colors available? We are talking about the same company correct?
BTW I had to pay extra for the ones that I got, as I wanted them in purple. ( Ugh dont ask
)
--Don
BTW I had to pay extra for the ones that I got, as I wanted them in purple. ( Ugh dont ask
)--Don