Just install Stinger cap. HELP!!
10-09-2002, 08:23 PM
#1
Just install Stinger cap. HELP!!
I've just install a Stinger expert series cap with digital monitor and my lights still dims when the bass hits.
What could be wrong?
This is how I have installed it. The main power wire goes in the cap and a another power wire coming out the cap into the distrubution block, and from the block into the amps. I have two amps one JL 500/1 and an alpine 400 watt 4ch amp.
thanks
What could be wrong?
This is how I have installed it. The main power wire goes in the cap and a another power wire coming out the cap into the distrubution block, and from the block into the amps. I have two amps one JL 500/1 and an alpine 400 watt 4ch amp.
thanks
10-10-2002, 08:06 AM
#4
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Originally posted by Pearl96Max
Ummm I know stupid question, but, you did charge the cap correct?
--Don
Ummm I know stupid question, but, you did charge the cap correct?
--Don
Actually I was thinking the same thing. But I don't have a run of the mill cap that needs to be charged prior to or during the install.
10-10-2002, 08:19 AM
#5
I tend to get a bit irritable
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Originally posted by jmax
Oh, come on Don. Don't belittle the guy/gal. Actually I was thinking the same thing. But I don't have a run of the mill cap that needs to be charged prior to or during the install.
Oh, come on Don. Don't belittle the guy/gal.
Actually I was thinking the same thing. But I don't have a run of the mill cap that needs to be charged prior to or during the install.
Me Niether...
Alumapro here too.--Don
BTW I was just making sure..
10-10-2002, 06:46 PM
#7
Originally posted by jmax
What is the gauge and length of the power and ground wires? Honestly, wired properly a cap should be unneeded in a system that small. So the additional capacitance should be overkill. There is a wiring problem somewhere.
What is the gauge and length of the power and ground wires? Honestly, wired properly a cap should be unneeded in a system that small. So the additional capacitance should be overkill. There is a wiring problem somewhere.
10-10-2002, 07:18 PM
#9
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 719
Re: Just install Stinger cap. HELP!!
Originally posted by eaglclon
I've just install a Stinger expert series cap with digital monitor and my lights still dims when the bass hits.
What could be wrong?
Probably a stupid question, but you did hook a ground wire up to the negative terminal of the cap, didn't you?
I've just install a Stinger expert series cap with digital monitor and my lights still dims when the bass hits.
What could be wrong?
This is how I have installed it. The main power wire goes in the cap and a another power wire coming out the cap into the distrubution block, and from the block into the amps. I have two amps one JL 500/1 and an alpine 400 watt 4ch amp.
10-10-2002, 09:01 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,397
That cap isnt even doing anything for ya.
All caps are good for is max power, like when your amp peaks out due to the load of the subwoofer and the volume your playing the music at. Its a reserve tank of voltage sort of.
If you wish to supplement two amps you need two caps IMO. And if the cap is farther than a foot from the (+) terminal on the amp then its too far and the voltage drop is negating the cap.
Here is what I would do:
Remove it from its current location. Place it in line to the JL 500/1 as close to the amp as possible.
If you wish to supplement two amps you need two caps IMO. And if the cap is farther than a foot from the (+) terminal on the amp then its too far and the voltage drop is negating the cap.
Here is what I would do:
Remove it from its current location. Place it in line to the JL 500/1 as close to the amp as possible.
10-10-2002, 10:41 PM
#11
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Originally posted by eaglclon
I'm using 15 feet 4 gauge power wire and 3 feet ground. My car is grounded properly cause there isn't any alternator noise.
I'm using 15 feet 4 gauge power wire and 3 feet ground. My car is grounded properly cause there isn't any alternator noise.
Now let's consider your wire length. 15 feet is the length from the battery to the cap, to the dist block, to the amp? Or just from the battery to the cap? Also think about what gauge and length of wire is running from the alternator to the factory fusebox just medial of the drivers side fender. And from that point where it goes through a 120 amp fuse to the battery terminal.
To achieve a 1/2 volt drop or less with 90 amps of current and a 15 foot cable run we need 2 gauge wire. If we go up to 125 amps of current we need 0 gauge. This is just to keep the voltage from dropping more than a half of a volt.
10-11-2002, 06:22 PM
#12
Originally posted by jmax
I am going to make a crazy guess and say the JL has 60 amps of fuseing. Or that it can achieve max power with about 56 amps of current at 70% efficiencey with 12.5 volts. And I will guess that the alpine has a pair of 25 amp fuses and it's really a 50 watt X 4 channel amp when only receiveing 12.5 volts and running each channel at 4 ohms. I feel relatively safe with this guess as it is a typical alpine 4 channel amp design, typical of their largest 4 channel amps. Now we have 110 amps of fuseing, give or take 10-15 amps.
Now let's consider your wire length. 15 feet is the length from the battery to the cap, to the dist block, to the amp? Or just from the battery to the cap? Also think about what gauge and length of wire is running from the alternator to the factory fusebox just medial of the drivers side fender. And from that point where it goes through a 120 amp fuse to the battery terminal.
To achieve a 1/2 volt drop or less with 90 amps of current and a 15 foot cable run we need 2 gauge wire. If we go up to 125 amps of current we need 0 gauge. This is just to keep the voltage from dropping more than a half of a volt.
I am going to make a crazy guess and say the JL has 60 amps of fuseing. Or that it can achieve max power with about 56 amps of current at 70% efficiencey with 12.5 volts. And I will guess that the alpine has a pair of 25 amp fuses and it's really a 50 watt X 4 channel amp when only receiveing 12.5 volts and running each channel at 4 ohms. I feel relatively safe with this guess as it is a typical alpine 4 channel amp design, typical of their largest 4 channel amps. Now we have 110 amps of fuseing, give or take 10-15 amps.
Now let's consider your wire length. 15 feet is the length from the battery to the cap, to the dist block, to the amp? Or just from the battery to the cap? Also think about what gauge and length of wire is running from the alternator to the factory fusebox just medial of the drivers side fender. And from that point where it goes through a 120 amp fuse to the battery terminal.
To achieve a 1/2 volt drop or less with 90 amps of current and a 15 foot cable run we need 2 gauge wire. If we go up to 125 amps of current we need 0 gauge. This is just to keep the voltage from dropping more than a half of a volt.
Ok my JL amp pulls 50 amps of current and my Alpine Pulls 40 amps. So are you suggesting that I try a 2 gauge wire?
Thanks again
10-11-2002, 11:28 PM
#13
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 719
Hey, before plunking down some more money on some wire why don't you do a bit of troubleshooting. Try taking the Alpine out of the equation. Either disconnect the RCA connections to it or turn down the gain. Then run your system normally (read thumpin') and see if the light still dim. You don't sound severely underwired (i.e. running 8 gauge), 4 Gauge can easily handle 50-60 amps. You should probably upgrade to 2 Gauge, but it might not be your real problem. You might need a new battey, alternator, or it may still be a ground problem.
My point is, don't just shotgun parts at it.
My point is, don't just shotgun parts at it.
10-12-2002, 12:10 AM
#14
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Originally posted by Maxima Dan
Hey, before plunking down some more money on some wire why don't you do a bit of troubleshooting. Try taking the Alpine out of the equation. Either disconnect the RCA connections to it or turn down the gain. Then run your system normally (read thumpin') and see if the light still dim. You don't sound severely underwired (i.e. running 8 gauge), 4 Gauge can easily handle 50-60 amps. You should probably upgrade to 2 Gauge, but it might not be your real problem. You might need a new battey, alternator, or it may still be a ground problem.
My point is, don't just shotgun parts at it.
Hey, before plunking down some more money on some wire why don't you do a bit of troubleshooting. Try taking the Alpine out of the equation. Either disconnect the RCA connections to it or turn down the gain. Then run your system normally (read thumpin') and see if the light still dim. You don't sound severely underwired (i.e. running 8 gauge), 4 Gauge can easily handle 50-60 amps. You should probably upgrade to 2 Gauge, but it might not be your real problem. You might need a new battey, alternator, or it may still be a ground problem.
My point is, don't just shotgun parts at it.
10-12-2002, 12:30 AM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 482
using that alpine for the highs, it shouldnt draw more than 10-15 amps in reality. did you upgrade your battery to chassis ground, your alternator to battery wire, and your engine to ground wire? also, how is your cap wired up? there are 2 PROPER ways of doing it. run the power wire from the + terminal on the battery to the + on the cap, then to the + on the amp. here is the difference between the 2...either wire the cap - to the chassis, and the amp - to the chassis, OR go from the amp - to the cap -, and then upgrade the size of the cap - to ground (if using 4 gauge power, use 2 gauge between the cap - and ground).
eric
eric
10-12-2002, 07:54 AM
#16
Originally posted by nismo240sx
using that alpine for the highs, it shouldnt draw more than 10-15 amps in reality. did you upgrade your battery to chassis ground, your alternator to battery wire, and your engine to ground wire? also, how is your cap wired up? there are 2 PROPER ways of doing it. run the power wire from the + terminal on the battery to the + on the cap, then to the + on the amp. here is the difference between the 2...either wire the cap - to the chassis, and the amp - to the chassis, OR go from the amp - to the cap -, and then upgrade the size of the cap - to ground (if using 4 gauge power, use 2 gauge between the cap - and ground).
eric
using that alpine for the highs, it shouldnt draw more than 10-15 amps in reality. did you upgrade your battery to chassis ground, your alternator to battery wire, and your engine to ground wire? also, how is your cap wired up? there are 2 PROPER ways of doing it. run the power wire from the + terminal on the battery to the + on the cap, then to the + on the amp. here is the difference between the 2...either wire the cap - to the chassis, and the amp - to the chassis, OR go from the amp - to the cap -, and then upgrade the size of the cap - to ground (if using 4 gauge power, use 2 gauge between the cap - and ground).
eric
10-12-2002, 08:55 AM
#17
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Posts: n/a
Originally posted by eaglclon
I just put in the a new optima red top battery a month ago. The guy I bought my JL 500/1 amp form told to upgrade the fuse holder and put a 150 amp fuse near the battery would there be a problem haveing such a large fuse?
I just put in the a new optima red top battery a month ago. The guy I bought my JL 500/1 amp form told to upgrade the fuse holder and put a 150 amp fuse near the battery would there be a problem haveing such a large fuse?
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