Nismo

iTrader: (18)

Im just thinking of ways to do a new install. I want a lightweight system that can still pound but keeping the weight to a minimum. My current setup is 2 tens in a big heavy bandpass box and thats a little hevy for me so I was thinking about just getting 1 LIGHT sub either 12 or a 15 and have it custom installed inside the spare tire place. Im not looking for anything specal, just flush mounted in there. anyone here have pics? There was a 5th gen I saw at Stillen day and he had 2 eclipse subs flush mounted in there, anyone know what shops would charge for something like that?

ny96max

15's are very sloppy.

Ant

Conrad283

iTrader: (2)

12's are nice

max'n out

Why not just go with a single 12 in a ported box with gobs of power say maybe with a 9.0 on it. Light yet gonna be very loud with less subs.

WizzaMax

iTrader: (9)

Where you will pay big on that type of install is sealing the spare well with fiberglass and pressure fitting a mounting board...no undoable but very expensive and not likely easy to remove if need be.

max'n out

No more than building any fiberglass enclosure and no more envoloved than building it into the area behind the seat and making it look nice. It's not that difficult just time consuming while you wait for it to dry.

nismo240sx

im sorry, but this is just misinformation. it has more to do with the box you put it in than the sub itself. ive heard 10's sound sloppy, and ive heard some 15's sound VERY articulate, even in a ported box, cuz it was built/designed right.

eric

InfamousOrange

12's, 15's....i say take the average: get a 13.5. the new w7 comes in a 13.5 clarity and kaboom all in one nice package

victor

iTrader: (1)

that'll defeat his purpose of going light. those things weight a lot.

15's can sound very nice. i'm pretty nismo240sx's system sounds killer. if i had the money and amps i'd go with a brahma 15". i don't have the money or the power so i went with a adire tempest 15" in the trunk floor.

loudmaxima

its not really deep enough to mount a 15 flush

victor

iTrader: (1)

very true. well depends on the sub. i have mine about 3.5 inches above the trunk floor. i then raised the rest of the floor 4 inches, so i could put the amps and distribution blocks in the stealth too.

Nismo

iTrader: (18)

How much material was used for the enclosure? wood? fiber? I just want something light yet still powerful

victor

iTrader: (1)

i think i used about half a 4x8 sheet of plywood and mdf combined. i used a little less than 2 gallons of fiberglass resin. and then i used some old sheets to get the mold, and then i finished it off with some fiberglass cloth. and a few pieces of rope for strength.

spend about 100 bucks on material. didn't think i'd end up spending so much, but that's what it came out to. really sturdy enclosure.

jmax

If you use more fabric and less resin it will be lighter, and stronger. I think the average mix is 50/50. Varies by fabric style and material. 2 gallons of resin seems to be a huge amount for a tire well. I was thinking more like 1.5 - 2 qts. But that's if a good quality wood is used for the frame and majority of the baffle. Of course it does depend on the total volume you need to surround in glass and resin. A 15 might take a gallon of resin if it needs a big box.

Also a 12 inch sub can do everything a ten can do with about another 1/2 octave of extension. Except that the 12 can do it with 2/3 as much effort / amp power. A 15 can do everything a 12 can do with another half octave or more extension. But the 15 will move almost twice as much air with the same amp. The idea that large subs are slow or inaccurate is an old wives tale. If you believe that you need to spend less time in the beauty parlor and more time listening to music.

releasedtruth

I've got the double 10 in the wheel well setup, damn fine, but the extension isn't as good due to the distance from the trunk roof, still kicks a ear shattering ton, but I think I lose a lot more than other setups with the same subs and amps. Even with 1000 watts on the 2 subs, it's about as powerful as the same subs in my T-bird at 400 total watts. Sometimes you just have to take the chance and go with it, I may change subs, but I think I'll keep the glassed box intact.

jmax

Not all subs have a good enough suspension for horizontal placement. But most do. but in the spare well they should be close enough to the rear trunk wall to get a good reflection and reinforced output. If the box size is less than in the other vehicle it's the likely culprit of decreased spl and low end output. Not to mention other differences in the interiors and frames of the two vehicles.

cwally

It should be about 500 I think... for the box and cover installation of the amps. everything.

releasedtruth

Mine aren't as close to the rear wall as Carlos' subs, but it works all the same. The box is smaller than the old one, but not by much. I'm looking for a new sub sound anyway, something a little different for a change. Specialists here in town quoted me 1200 for the setup and I got it for less than half that elsewhere for everything.

max'n out

Lets not forget tuning plays a large role too.

jmax

Yes, a little bit of eq'ing and the low end changes dramatically.

A glass / BB box in the spare well will be less than $150 for materials. And that's with the best materials available for this sort of thing. Epoxy resin, kevlar and satin weave glass fabric, baltic birch, stainless screws and t-nuts. You could upgrade to carbon fabric for a little more money.

victor

iTrader: (1)

my enclosure was about 4.0 cubic feet without displacement, but you should be able to get away using a gallon if your going to do a flush mount. i had to raise my floor a bit. i'm still kinda new with fiberglass, also.

jmax

4 cubic feet more than large enough for 3 brahma 12's! What do you have in your spare well?

victor

iTrader: (1)

a ported tempest.

max'n out

Even more important, the x over frequency. Most of these guys drop um in and let um play around 100hz and down...YOu know the lower (in most situations) the better...Major diff between 100hz 70 hz and 50hz and down...Can realy change a system and bring the stage way out front.

jmax

Oh yeah, she's a bigg'un. But I think she'll look like a little girl next to what I am going to br trying to do over the winter.

victor

iTrader: (1)

lol. i guess what your going to be doing over the winter is going to make my next 10 or 8 look ridiculously girly.

you care to share?

jmax

I don't wish to share untill I take a few of the needed steps to make it happen. Otherwise I may be lieing and not even know it.

victor

iTrader: (1)

lol. that's straight.

jmax

Seriously though. It's entirely possible that what I plan to do will be unmountable without a lot of work. Depending on how much work I may alter the plans. Actually regardless of what happens it will be a lot of work. But that is sort of irrelevant because I probably would not do it if it were easy. It will also take a lot more money than what I have already spent. To give a hint I have already spent well over $300 for upgraded wireing, connections, fuse blocks, etc. This is for a car that already has over $1000 in wireing - alt, battery, cap. I have to hope for sunny weather to do more cutting and measureing in teh trunk this weekend and every weekend this fall and winter. i also have to hope for lots of OT or a second job because I would like to get a few more amps. I can build home sub enclosures in the garage when it is 20 below zero, but I won't be working in the car much below 50. It's just not practical or possible for a lot of what needs to be done, ie. - my fiberglass resin has a 50 degree minimum cure temp.

victor

iTrader: (1)

damn, your hardcore. if i had the money and time to work on the car's system, it'd be so much fun, like doing kicks and stuff.

jmax

Money is the hardest part. I don't make a lot and my mortgage company is unforgiveing. So all my audio stuff is OT or a second job. Luckilly I don't have many hobbies so most of my money goes into this.