Vumax_1

I'm looking for a good place to ground my amp and in searching, I found that if you look in the trunk and where the back seat is, and you peel back the backing, there is a metal bar that runs across the back seat.

Has anyone tried grounding their systems there? Would that be a good spot to do it?

MIXXMAX

iTrader: (1)

Yep, I have both of my amps grounded there. I grounded mine at different locations to avoid noise. Also, another good point in the trunk is underneath the carpet...the trunk floor. Just scrape off the paint to expose bare metal and you'll be fine.

Vumax_1

I'm not sure what you mean by the noise? Could you ground many things in one spot?

MIXXMAX

iTrader: (1)

I always ground my components at different locations if any one of them affects the other. Yes, it's possible to ground many things at one spot, but if one component generates any audible noise, it will affect all the components grounded at that same point. I try to avoid this by choosing different ground points for each component. This way, if you do have noise generated through your system, it's easily pin-pointed to where it's coming from. My system is quiet as a mouse!

Vumax_1

That makes sense.

Thanks MIXXMAX

jmax

But not as much sense as grounding them all at the same point to avoid noise. But I would choose a better grounding point, the trunk floor. Use a drill and a tap. Drill first then tap. Then you can use a machine screw for a very secure and good ground. I am actually useing a dist block. Used the same size tap as the set screw that goes into the block. Drilled through the block and used a longer than stock screw to go through the block and into the trunk floor. That way you have as many grounding points as the distribution block you use. Works good for multiple amps or processors. You can also add ring terminals on top if you have more amps/eq/processors than locations on your block.

victor

iTrader: (1)

use one ground point and a distribution block. i don't know about the bar your talking about. but the best place would be the floor of the car, ie trunk floor. go the way jmax said to ground.

having more than one ground point makes a little bit of sense to me. all grounds, connect together. the car's pretty much just one piece of metal.

Vumax_1

I'm a little concerned about drilling hole in trunk. Does anyone have a pic of this done so I can get an idea?

Thanks much guys

jmax

http://www.installdr.com/TechDocs/999502.pdf

And, finally found a well typed explanation on RF's tech site. The question was: "What causes engine noise through a stereo ystem?
How can I fix noise problems like whining or popping?"

And the answer:

Most engine noise is related to one of three things: Power/ground cabling and connections, RCA cabling and placement, or vehicle charging system problems.

You should be using the correct-sized power wire for the current demands of the equipment you're using. We recommend at least 8-gauge power and ground cable to power each amplifier you use, although we'll recommend running 4-gauge if you have more then two units due to the dynamic power requirements some amplifiers have. Plus, with 4-gauge, you'll have the opportunity to add more amps later without having to re-run power cable. Your ground cable should be less than 18" long, the same exact size as the power cable, bolted directly to a solid, thick steel part of the chassis which is scraped clean of any paint or primer for best possible grounding. Your positive power cable should be attached directly to the vehicle's battery using a high-quality battery post adapter, and must be fused within 18" of the battery itself. To avoid unnecessary noise, you should also add an additional ground cable, at least the same gauge as the power cable, to the negative (-) side of the battery and bolt it directly to the frame within 12" to 18" (this gives the vehicle a better grounding plane). Inside the car, the head unit of the vehicle must NEVER be grounded to the factory wiring - always ground your head unit to the same place your amps and other audio components are grounded. It's best to use a distribution block for this.

Your RCA's need to be run separately and away from any power cabling - like the power cable for the amplifier or any factory wiring harnesses. You shouldn't be running your remote turn-on wire with the RCA's; you should run your remote turn-on with an additional ground wire, so that you can ground your head unit to the exact same place your amplifier is grounded, and all power cables should be run down the opposite side of the vehicle from your RCA's. Your RCA's should be a high-quality type like our Connecting Punch Gamma-geometry or twisted-pair cables, and you need to make sure they're not pinched or there's not a screw run through them accidentally.

The car's alternator or battery may also have a problem. If you've loaded down the alternator for too long, it might be starting to fail, and will cause unwanted noise through the audio system. Additionally, a failing battery can pass noise through to your system too, but this is less common. To be absolutely sure, we suggest taking your vehicle to the dealer or an auto parts store that can load-test your battery and alternator - they can determine if you're having major problems. If you're simply not getting enough power to your system anyway, it would be a good idea to upgrade your alternator to a higher-output model for best performance.

victor

iTrader: (1)

most any rca's will work fine. i'm just letting everyone know that those are rocford fosgate type rca's, and they cost a few more dollars from what i've seen in prices.

jmax

Sorry, I did not intend to let RCA's into this thread. Disregard anything to do with RCA's.

jmax

I shoule be able to take a pic when I reground my trunk in a week or two. Untill then use your imagination. I really expected to get my new distribution blocks, fuseing, etc by now. But it has not shown up yet. If it had shown up it would have rained, so it wouldn't be in the car yet anyway. But I will try to remember to take a pic and email it to you.

Vumax_1

Thanx jmax, I'm having a same sort of problem too. I'm still installing my amp after 3 weeks. I either have to go to school or go to work. I get like a day of free time and if i'm lucky maybe 2.