thebigsadler

iTrader: (4)

We spent about 4 hours driving around and gathering more supplies and ended up spending another 5 or 6 hours wrapping and wiring.. we are going to try to finish up the amp racks today and get it all setup to work on the strobes and HIDs this weekend.. maybe start some painting after the weekend.. we'll see.

thebigsadler

iTrader: (4)

We wrapped the false floor and the subwoofer box face and bolted them to the car.. Wired up the one amp for the interiors so frenchie could have tunes on the way home. This was all last nights work and we are working on the rest and finishing today I hope.

GundamWZero

Are those free air speakers? I am curious cause I hear that you can setup free airs that way.................

victor

iTrader: (1)

i believe that those subs are not free-air. he has them setup in a sealed box, just inverted.

thebigsadler

iTrader: (4)

They are just mounted inverted into a sealed box. These bad boys kick too.. we barely turned the gain up, left the htz low and didn't touch the boost and we were shaking things up.. amp racks possibly tomorrow, we'll see.

thebigsadler

iTrader: (4)

A couple more with both amps installed and everything completely wired up.

MaximaRider

iTrader: (3)

Jay gimme a call later 2nite(around 10pm?/don't wanna interrupt anything)or i'll see u online, i have a problemo and its driving me when i drive the car.

gtr_rider

iTrader: (50)

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

Is that carpet or vinyl? Good work guys.

thebigsadler

iTrader: (4)

black vinyl aka "pleather"

arnaud was telling me that you had mentioned to him that we should ground the farad directly to the farad and not through the amp??

another thing we experienced was when the car had the volume at 0 the subs would make a "thud" and then periodically (couple minutes) make a similar "thud" sound.. as if they were still pumping out sound, would this mean that the gain is up to high (it's not even at halfway i don't think)..?

and my last question is, the audiobahn subs have 4 ports for wiring on them, we only used 1, should we have used 2 on each one and just routed the wires together, or will one be sufficient?? it sounded pretty good as it was, but i am not too familiar with the subs themselves.

thank tony

Conrad283

iTrader: (2)

wow, that looks awesome jason ... good job, those subs look bad a$$

ny96max

run the ground cable through the cap and out to your amps. Ill be installing a 5farad cap soon and im doin the same thing, in and then out to my amp, 1000bd

Ant

KiLLeR2002se

iTrader: (4)

use both "ports"
otherwire, youd be using a SVC, single voice coil and not both.

looks awesom dude!!
how many DB do u lose by turning the subs that way?

GundamWZero

Too bad I have to setup my trunk so I can transport groceries, I gotta make all the room I can!

victor

iTrader: (1)

are those subs single voice coil or dual?? if it's dual you might be ruining them by running them on a single coil.

MaximaRider

iTrader: (3)

No idea how many DB i lose but from the breif amount of time i used them its more than enough power and it looks insane...i am used to my one 12inch mtx thunder 6000 pushin 300watts, this is more bass than i could dream of

MaximaRider

iTrader: (3)

Pretty sure they are dual voice coil, i haven't ran them for more than a few minutes but thanks for the notice...guess its back to the stereo shop for LOTS more wire.

victor

iTrader: (1)

if you need help with the wiring or anything else, post the specs for your amp and subs and i'm sure we can figure out the best way.

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

This how you suppose to wire a cap.

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/st...tech_brief.asp

As for the ports, I assume you are talking about the sub speaker terminals. What type of sub are they? Dual voice coil 4 ohms (two postive and two negative per sub)? Then you should wire each sub's voice coils in series first. This way you will get 8 ohm per sub. Then you parallel wire the two subs to a total of 4 ohm into the bridged one channel of the amp. This way you are getting the most out of the amp. The subs should come with installation manual. If not, check the amp's installation manual.

I have no idea what's causing the thump.

MaximaRider

iTrader: (3)

Subwoofer Specs:
280oz Double Stacked Strontium Magnets
Power Handling: 1500 watts R.M.S.
Frequency Response: 20Hz - 500Hz
Efficiency: 91dB
PHAT 2" Multi-layer Foam Surround
Stamped and Balanced Aluminum Cone
3" 4-Layer AVS Voice Coil
Dual 2 Ohm Voice Coils
1 Ohm or 4 Ohm Operation
Mounting Dimensions: Depth; 6 3/4" Hole; 10 7/8"
Diameter; 12 1/2"
Multi-connect Lug Lock Terminals
Amp For Sub Specs:
1- Channel High Output Class D Amplifier
400 watts x 1 @ 4 OHMS Mono
750 watts x 1 @ 2 OHMS Mono
1200 watts x 1 @ OHMS Mono
Voltmeter With Blue Illumination
Phase Control: 0°-180°
Class D Mosfet Cicuitry
Multi Stranded Power Supply Toroids
Double Sided Glass Epoxy Cicuit Board
THD: 0.05%
S/N Ratio: <100dB
Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40Hz (+/- 1dB)
Variable 18dB Hi-pass Crossover: 50Hz - 750 Hz
Variable 18dB Low-pass Crossover: 30Hz - 120 Hz
Variable Bassboost 0 - 18dB
Subsonic Filter: 20Hz to 50Hz
RCA Throughput Connections
4-Way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit and Overload & DC Offset
Cobalt Blue Illumination
High Gloss Chrome Plated Finish
Chrome Flame Fan Grilles
Dimensions: 2.5"(H) x 15" (W) x 12"(D)

victor

iTrader: (1)

what is that?? 1 ohm??

are you running one amp for each sub (i hope you are)? but if you are, then you need to run each sub at 1 ohm, meaning wire the coils in parallel. (that is if the 1200 watts is at 1 ohm mono)

victor

iTrader: (1)

and regarding the thunp, in my experience crappy amps just do that when they turn on. (remember that just what i think)

MaximaRider

iTrader: (3)

hell no i can't afford 2 amps for 2 subs, the one mono amp is for the 2 12's. The thud happens when the stereo isn't even on? No offense but i am pretty sure the amp is not crappy(yes its 1200watts x 1 @ 1 ohm). Can you explain to me wiring the coils in parallel because i have heard of this before but i am no stereo genius. Thanx in advance.
-Arnaud

MaximaRider

iTrader: (3)

is this what you mean?

http://pub51.ezboard.com/fcaraudiokn...picID=37.topic

For dual voice coils:
http://www.geocities.com/rfkicker1/Installation2.html

Now if i wire them like the diagrams above is my amp going to be able to take it considering its specs? I can tell you straight off the batt its not a cheap amp so i am in no rush to kill it but if its gonna sound better and function better i would prefer to do it this way, there are 2 ports on each sub with 2 + and 2 - on each port.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1946553695

TL@altimas.net

I would make sure you know what you're doing as far as wiring before you hook the power up.. Hate to see ya fry something, or not get full output..

good news is you won't lose any SPL by inverting the subs.. you might be able to hear a few extra noises (lead slap, vent noise) outta the sub, but it should only be noticeable with the trunk open.. and make sure the box size is correct, since you aren't displacing any volume when you invert..

p.s. inverted kicks ***.
old setup/sig pic.. only one I could find..

MaximaRider

iTrader: (3)

Ish loox hot, Ant just helped me with all the wiring and whatnot, we'll figure that out tomorrow, i really don't wanna fry anything either so i am just leavin the stereo off for now.

victor

iTrader: (1)

i didn't mean to offend you regarding the amp, i'm sorry if i did. that's just been my experience, which obviously is different than yours if yours happens with the system off.

regarding the wiring, your going to end up running the subs in a 2 ohm mono load. therefore splitting the spec 750 watts between the two subs. be careful not to blow the subs running that much power to them, do not turn the gains up too high.



go ahead and wire them like this. on the amp you will connect the positive wires together and the negative wires together.

hope this helps, if not just ask away.

MaximaRider

iTrader: (3)

Yea Ant just explained to me i would be getting 375watts to each sub...but the sub can take wattage of 1500rms so i am not pushin anywhere close to that? Definitley not gonna turn the gains up to high. thanx for all ur help guys we'll let you know how it turns out in a day or 2.

thebigsadler

iTrader: (4)

I am pretty sure we can hand that wiring, we just need to get some more of that thick **** wire.. stuff isn't cheap, too bad the connectors suck on the sub, wish we had an alternative then just jamming the wire in there.

we'll figure it out.. if not tomorrow, then on the weekend.. damn snow.

thanks for all the help victor, tony, ant and everyone else...

Shugarhi

iTrader: (1)

nice those are some sick lookin subs... keep it up

Nathan

iTrader: (28)

The thumping from the subs when the volume is at zero would mean the gain is too high. That was happening to my buddies system, we turned the gain down and everything was fine. The setup looks really hot

Nathan

Tanman

How are you isolating the different wires to keep the power wires from interfering with the signal wires? You seem to have a lot of wires all over the place.

Synki

Looks like I might have to make a detour to your house Jay. Arnaud, i hope you are fully loaded.

Inverting the subs doesn't mean you will lose dB. Design plays too huge of a factor.

Get some good RCA cables and you should be fine. They sell shielded RCAs as well. I use to run Monster Cable and then coverted over to using Kimber Cable.

KiLLeR2002se

iTrader: (4)

this will bring you to a one ohm load

victor

iTrader: (1)

i believe that will drop him to a 0.5 ohm load.

KiLLeR2002se

iTrader: (4)

oh yea, thats right, i thought they were d4s

Conrad283

iTrader: (2)

day 3 pics????????

this is so cool

jmax

Running just one voice coil on a dual coil sub won't ruin the sub. But it will have half the efficiency and half the power handling. If each coil is good for 300 watts RMS, you would have a 300 watt sub. Wiring both coils you can use up to 600 on the same sub. Of course thermal limits and mechanical limits are not the same.

victor

iTrader: (1)

hmm, i didn't think that. i always thought you had to run both. specs for some dual voice coil subs state 2 configs, never three.

that makes DVC subs even more durable.

jmax

http://adireaudio.com/tech_papers/dvc_subs.htm
http://adireaudio.com/tech_papers/rdo_operation.htm

What about driving just a single coil, and leaving the other open? Well, as you would guess, the push is weaker. The system has a peakier resonance (for the techie types, Qts increases because Qes increases).

BUT - let's drive one coil, and short the other. Guess what? Things change from the original (both coils driven) situation, but they also stay the same. The driven voice coil is pushing and pulling, as normal. But what about the shorted voice coil? Well, it's trying to keep things at rest - it's trying to resist ANY motion! The net result is the overall peakiness of the resonance is the same as it was when both coils were driven, even though we are only using half the motor (driving one coil). The other coil helps "tame" the driven coil, so that the system basically behaves the same as before.

Hey, maybe we can exploit that! Actually, we can...

Say you want to use our Shiva driver. Say you like everything about it (especially the massive Xmax!), but for your intended application, you want a higher Q. Well, this is the way: drive one voice coil. But rather than just shorting the second coil, or leaving it open, terminate it with a resistor. The result? The Qts of the driver will change from the open to the shorted Qts as the resistance is decreased. That means you can tune the Q of the driver, with nothing more than a potentiometer!

In fact, for our Shiva subwoofer, operation in this mode allows one to literally dial in a Qts from ~0.4 to ~0.80. Now THAT'S flexibility! So a dual voice driver is actually amazingly flexible. Much more so than usually pushed. Use a dual voice coil driver, and you can use a much wider range of enclosures, and even have a system that can have a "Qts" **** on it, for changing the Qtc of a sealed system on the fly, according to your tastes.

There's one thing that often comes up about wiring DVC subs, and that is the mistaken conclusion that running different signals to each voice coil will "ruin" the driver. Let's recall how a dual voice coil driver is built. Basically, a dual voice coil driver consists of two motors (the voice coils) co-axially mounted (that is, wound together on the former) to a single diaphragm. The net force on the diaphragm is the sum of the inputs of the two motors.

Now, when you feed disparate signals to the motors, they do try to counteract each other. However, this will NOT result in mechanical stress in the system!