HELP! Bose questions (Studman? )
HELP! Bose questions (Studman? )
OKay.. i have searched, and i still don't understand this.
I have a 2003 maxima iwth BOSE audio. In my 2002 i installed the stuff because i have an aftermarket head unit..
But this time round i want to use the factory HU. How does the bose interface differ from a regular line convertor?
I am going to take the output from the headunit (before the bose amp) and use a line converotr there. WHy is the bose convertors so special if you are just taking the signal on the INPUT side of the bose amp??
Please let me know because I need to proceed with my installation
ED
I have a 2003 maxima iwth BOSE audio. In my 2002 i installed the stuff because i have an aftermarket head unit..
But this time round i want to use the factory HU. How does the bose interface differ from a regular line convertor?
I am going to take the output from the headunit (before the bose amp) and use a line converotr there. WHy is the bose convertors so special if you are just taking the signal on the INPUT side of the bose amp??
Please let me know because I need to proceed with my installation
ED
Hey hey MiniRX7... glad to hear that you "upgraded" your smashed car for another Max. Lemmie tell you what I know.
First off, I just replaced the stock HU. Read this thread to get info about running the car with the stock speakers/amp. It's sounds good.
As for replacing the speakers and subs, get the PAC AOEM-NIS2 kit. It's a Bose-to-Line-level convertor. The Bose system uses line level, but the voltages vary from 0.7v all the way up to 9.0v, which will kill a pre-amp input on a normal amp. Even my Rockford amp can only tolerate a 4.5v input. The PAC kit will convert the Bose voltages to line level with little-to-no noticable difference. That's what I used to run my subs off the stock HU.
As far as keeping the HU... it's nice looking, but my thread above stated that it was the weakest part of the system. When I replaced it with my Kenwood, I again used PAC's ROEM-NIS2 kit (they just change the cables, so you don't have to buy the OEM-1 unit again) to hook up the HU to the Bose amp. If you are looking for quality, crisp sound, replace the Bose HU. I'd still recommend scrapping the Bose completely, but I'd recommend that the HU be replaced first. HU = weakest link.
First off, I just replaced the stock HU. Read this thread to get info about running the car with the stock speakers/amp. It's sounds good.
As for replacing the speakers and subs, get the PAC AOEM-NIS2 kit. It's a Bose-to-Line-level convertor. The Bose system uses line level, but the voltages vary from 0.7v all the way up to 9.0v, which will kill a pre-amp input on a normal amp. Even my Rockford amp can only tolerate a 4.5v input. The PAC kit will convert the Bose voltages to line level with little-to-no noticable difference. That's what I used to run my subs off the stock HU.
As far as keeping the HU... it's nice looking, but my thread above stated that it was the weakest part of the system. When I replaced it with my Kenwood, I again used PAC's ROEM-NIS2 kit (they just change the cables, so you don't have to buy the OEM-1 unit again) to hook up the HU to the Bose amp. If you are looking for quality, crisp sound, replace the Bose HU. I'd still recommend scrapping the Bose completely, but I'd recommend that the HU be replaced first. HU = weakest link.
Originally posted by VQMAN
I searched google for "PAC ROEM-NIS2" and it didn't have anything.
where can I buy one of these, and how much do they cost.
also, the PAC link above doesn't work anymore.
thanks
-vq
I searched google for "PAC ROEM-NIS2" and it didn't have anything.
where can I buy one of these, and how much do they cost.
also, the PAC link above doesn't work anymore.
thanks
-vq
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Posts: n/a
Originally posted by maximamaybe
Go to AffSave.com. You can call them and get the ROEM-NIS2. I paid 59.95 shipped. Well, I had to pay tax because I was in Texas. Anoter option is Tune Town, but it was 80 + shipping.
Go to AffSave.com. You can call them and get the ROEM-NIS2. I paid 59.95 shipped. Well, I had to pay tax because I was in Texas. Anoter option is Tune Town, but it was 80 + shipping.
ROEM-NIS2 95-99 Nissan w/Bose
I have a 2k3, does the ROEM-NIS2 work for the 2k3?
and this thing does what exactly?
I was under the impression that this was a converter that allowed me to run a non BOSE amp of my BOSE HU.
I want to keep the BOSE HU, and hook a different amp and speakers to it...with this it is possible...right?
-vq
I have a 2k3, does the ROEM-NIS2 work for the 2k3?
and this thing does what exactly?
The ROEM-NIS2 is a line/speaker-level-to-Bose-level convertor.
The main guts of both of the AOEM-NIS2 and ROEM-NIS2 is the OEM-1. The cables are the only thing that are different between the 2 sets.
I was under the impression that this was a converter that allowed me to run a non BOSE amp of my BOSE HU.
The ROEM-NIS2 is designed to replace the stock HU, while keeping the Bose amp and speakers.
I want to keep the BOSE HU, and hook a different amp and speakers to it...with this it is possible...right?
Originally posted by studman
The AOEM-NIS2 will do that for you. The AOEM-NIS2 is designed for those wanting to keep their stock HU, but replace (or add) speakers, amps, and/or subs.
The ROEM-NIS2 is designed to replace the stock HU, while keeping the Bose amp and speakers.
The AOEM-NIS2 will do that for you. The AOEM-NIS2 is designed for those wanting to keep their stock HU, but replace (or add) speakers, amps, and/or subs.
The ROEM-NIS2 is designed to replace the stock HU, while keeping the Bose amp and speakers.
OK...thanks Studman
....now what if I want to replace the HU AND interior speakers as well as run a 4 channel and a 2 channel amp? Will the ROEM-NIS2 allow me to do all of this without completely re-wiring the Bose? And do you know the max wattage per channel rating for the OEM-1? I'm running an Alpine HU rated at 60x4...is this too much for the OEM 1 to handle?
Originally posted by I30 Boogie
OK...thanks Studman
....now what if I want to replace the HU AND interior speakers as well as run a 4 channel and a 2 channel amp? Will the ROEM-NIS2 allow me to do all of this without completely re-wiring the Bose?
And do you know the max wattage per channel rating for the OEM-1? I'm running an Alpine HU rated at 60x4...is this too much for the OEM 1 to handle?
OK...thanks Studman
....now what if I want to replace the HU AND interior speakers as well as run a 4 channel and a 2 channel amp? Will the ROEM-NIS2 allow me to do all of this without completely re-wiring the Bose? And do you know the max wattage per channel rating for the OEM-1? I'm running an Alpine HU rated at 60x4...is this too much for the OEM 1 to handle?
I wanted to keep the Bose headunit and amp for the front and rear. Therefore, I purchased the AOEM-NIS2. Studman wanted to replace the headunit, but keep the stoke bose for front and rear. Therefore, he purchased the ROEM-NIS2.
If you want to add a new headunit and completely change the amp for fron, rear and sub then you don't need any of the PAC converters. All you would need is the adapter for the Nissan wiring harness. You could get that from crutchfield.
Originally posted by maximamaybe
I'm not studman, but if you want a new headunit and new amps, I don't think you need that kit. Those kits are only necessary if you want to keep any part of your Bose system.
I wanted to keep the Bose headunit and amp for the front and rear. Therefore, I purchased the AOEM-NIS2. Studman wanted to replace the headunit, but keep the stoke bose for front and rear. Therefore, he purchased the ROEM-NIS2.
If you want to add a new headunit and completely change the amp for fron, rear and sub then you don't need any of the PAC converters. All you would need is the adapter for the Nissan wiring harness. You could get that from crutchfield.
I'm not studman, but if you want a new headunit and new amps, I don't think you need that kit. Those kits are only necessary if you want to keep any part of your Bose system.
I wanted to keep the Bose headunit and amp for the front and rear. Therefore, I purchased the AOEM-NIS2. Studman wanted to replace the headunit, but keep the stoke bose for front and rear. Therefore, he purchased the ROEM-NIS2.
If you want to add a new headunit and completely change the amp for fron, rear and sub then you don't need any of the PAC converters. All you would need is the adapter for the Nissan wiring harness. You could get that from crutchfield.
Originally posted by MarcusJY
Can some one tell me where to purchase the AOEM-NIS2. I didn't see it on any of those sites.
Can some one tell me where to purchase the AOEM-NIS2. I didn't see it on any of those sites.
Thank you very much!!!
You may also want to make sure your amp needs this adaptor first. I went to HiFi Buys, told them what amp I had, and the installer said I already have that built into my amp, and my current set-up of tapping into the Bose sub does the same thing as that adaptor would do for a different amp.
Originally posted by studman
Hey hey MiniRX7... glad to hear that you "upgraded" your smashed car for another Max. Lemmie tell you what I know.
First off, I just replaced the stock HU. Read this thread to get info about running the car with the stock speakers/amp. It's sounds good.
As for replacing the speakers and subs, get the PAC AOEM-NIS2 kit. It's a Bose-to-Line-level convertor. The Bose system uses line level, but the voltages vary from 0.7v all the way up to 9.0v, which will kill a pre-amp input on a normal amp. Even my Rockford amp can only tolerate a 4.5v input. The PAC kit will convert the Bose voltages to line level with little-to-no noticable difference. That's what I used to run my subs off the stock HU.
As far as keeping the HU... it's nice looking, but my thread above stated that it was the weakest part of the system. When I replaced it with my Kenwood, I again used PAC's ROEM-NIS2 kit (they just change the cables, so you don't have to buy the OEM-1 unit again) to hook up the HU to the Bose amp. If you are looking for quality, crisp sound, replace the Bose HU. I'd still recommend scrapping the Bose completely, but I'd recommend that the HU be replaced first. HU = weakest link.
Hey hey MiniRX7... glad to hear that you "upgraded" your smashed car for another Max. Lemmie tell you what I know.
First off, I just replaced the stock HU. Read this thread to get info about running the car with the stock speakers/amp. It's sounds good.
As for replacing the speakers and subs, get the PAC AOEM-NIS2 kit. It's a Bose-to-Line-level convertor. The Bose system uses line level, but the voltages vary from 0.7v all the way up to 9.0v, which will kill a pre-amp input on a normal amp. Even my Rockford amp can only tolerate a 4.5v input. The PAC kit will convert the Bose voltages to line level with little-to-no noticable difference. That's what I used to run my subs off the stock HU.
As far as keeping the HU... it's nice looking, but my thread above stated that it was the weakest part of the system. When I replaced it with my Kenwood, I again used PAC's ROEM-NIS2 kit (they just change the cables, so you don't have to buy the OEM-1 unit again) to hook up the HU to the Bose amp. If you are looking for quality, crisp sound, replace the Bose HU. I'd still recommend scrapping the Bose completely, but I'd recommend that the HU be replaced first. HU = weakest link.
Studman why can't u put the line converter on the wire that connects to the bose sub
Nothing says you can't. But the signal going to the Bose sub has been EQ'd and Crossovered. So why would you want to feed your subs a signal that isn't truely the source, but yet tuned to the Bose system?
Adding an Amp
WOW guys this info i awesome. I want to do basically the same thing. Just add and amp. Do do this your saying i would have to purchase the AOEM-NIS2(right?) Also, what wires do i have to tap into for the signal and more important where are they in the car. I have a 2000 Max with BOSE. Thanks for any help.
-Jared
-Jared
I'm working on a Bose FAQ that will have pictures and all, but that's not ready yet. Basically, the PAC AOEM-NIS2 kit fits between the factory HU and the factory harness that plugs into the HU. It's plug and play. It does not require tapping any wires, splicing, etc. You just remove the factory harness from the HU and insert it into the AOEM-NIS2 kit. Then you take the connector from the AOEM-NIS2 kit and insert it in the factory HU. The rest is basically self-explanatory.
I was also wondering that, I just want to replace the stock Woofers with some aftermarket ones in my 6th Gen Maxima but for some reason the Right Subwoofer has 4 wires where the Driver side sub only has two like a regular speaker. Anybody know what to do with the other two wires?
Originally Posted by Shawoo1969
HELP! I am wondering if there is a connector/adaptor that will allow me to use aftermarket speakers keeping my 96 Max bose head unit? Thanx for any info provided.
D@mn this is an OLD thread...
Originally Posted by Pres7
I was also wondering that, I just want to replace the stock Woofers with some aftermarket ones in my 6th Gen Maxima but for some reason the Right Subwoofer has 4 wires where the Driver side sub only has two like a regular speaker. Anybody know what to do with the other two wires?
The 4 wires is a jumper to the other speaker. I wouldnt recommend just replacing them. Adding an amp to power them would be much more benficial.
Thanks for the feedback,
You dont think that replacing them with some aftermarket subs would make much difference? I was trying to get away from ripping apart the interior running power wires for a separate amp.
You dont think that replacing them with some aftermarket subs would make much difference? I was trying to get away from ripping apart the interior running power wires for a separate amp.
hey i have a 99 maxima just wanted to know where is the factory amp located the bose amp?. i besically wanna keep my bose head unit and just add aftermarket amp and subs.. so your saying i need to purchase a AOEM-NIS2 ??
Originally Posted by indeep
hey i have a 99 maxima just wanted to know where is the factory amp located the bose amp?. i besically wanna keep my bose head unit and just add aftermarket amp and subs.. so your saying i need to purchase a AOEM-NIS2 ??
The factory amps are located in your trunk. One is along the back wall (behind the rear seat) and the other is integrated, essentially, into the subwoofer.
You need to splice RCA's into your Bose preouts at your HU, as well as find a remote turn on lead. Run power from your battery. Find a bolt in the trunk for your amps. That's all.
Nothing to work out....Both are wrong.
indeep...check the FAQs rather than digging up old threads. All the info you need is there.
Nilesh..its a 4th gen = no sub, and the amp(S) are at Each speaker.
indeep...check the FAQs rather than digging up old threads. All the info you need is there.
Nilesh..its a 4th gen = no sub, and the amp(S) are at Each speaker.
hey, i want to keep my bose HU and the stock Bose speaker, I just want to get some subs, probably 2 12" MTX with a 1200 watt MTX amp, with a ported box, and I have a 2000 Maxima GLE. what do you guys think? how should I go about doing this?
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