Bose HU is removed, Kenwood HU is installed
#161
yeah, i had the same problem when installing my aftermarket HU, the solid blue wire is for the power antenna, and the white with blue stripe is the amp turn on for the bose speakers. when i installed my HU there was only 1 wire to connect both of those to, meaning that if you wanted to power antenna to go up you had to install a switch, or just deal with it being up all the time (not just when you were listening to the radio). without connecting the blue w/ white stripe wire your bose speakers wont turn on and you will have no sound at all. hope thats not too confusing.
#162
I've got myself a Bose system with a new Alpine 9885 and got it set up at Best Buy. It sounds a lot better than the stock HU, but the sub isn't hooked up. I assume one of the four harnesses that was back there was it, but none of those are RCA's. How would I wire/tell them to wire the sub into a RCA based head unit?
#163
hi guys, i'm new here and i made an account to basically ask yall this question regarding replacement of a factory bose system with an aftermarket radio in my 97 SE. Now the circuit city installers told me that i have to rewire the entire car and replace all the speakers because the factory amp will blow due to a couple ohm loads incompatible with the radio speaker outputs. They said that since it will basically be an "amp to amp" connection with the factory amp running through a signal from the radio's built in amp, there will be too much pressure on the factory amp and the guy said it will blow after a few months.
SO THEN, i went to best buy to see wat they would say, and the guy there told me that nothing will happen as long as i dont blast the volume or anything and the worst that would happen is i'd have to rewire everything eventually WITHOUT having to replace the speakers....if i did what circuit city told me, it woulda cost me around $400 when i dont want to replace my speakers in the first place...so i let the guys at best buy install it and i guess i'll see how it goes....so my question is will my amp eventually blow and if so, how long will it last?
i just signed up so i couldnt make a thread, i hope someone sees this and can give me some feedback, thanks.
SO THEN, i went to best buy to see wat they would say, and the guy there told me that nothing will happen as long as i dont blast the volume or anything and the worst that would happen is i'd have to rewire everything eventually WITHOUT having to replace the speakers....if i did what circuit city told me, it woulda cost me around $400 when i dont want to replace my speakers in the first place...so i let the guys at best buy install it and i guess i'll see how it goes....so my question is will my amp eventually blow and if so, how long will it last?
i just signed up so i couldnt make a thread, i hope someone sees this and can give me some feedback, thanks.
#174
Hey guys,
I am lowly noob, so I have to post in someone elses thread to ask any questions. So I apologize ahead of time for the threadjack.
I have a 01 Maxima GLE. I recently replaced the stock Bose HU with an aftermarket one (thanks to this forum). Anyway in the process I was using the voltmeter to test some things out and accidentally shorted one of the probes on the cig lighter blowing the fuse. I figured no big deal replaced fuse cig lighter has power again. Wrong, I now have no dome lights, door lights, visor lights. The power locks and the trunk pop only work with the key on. The key light does not work. When I flip the visor down instead of the light coming on, it makes the door/trunk open light on the dash come on. Same with the Garage door button, makes the dash door/trunk light come on when pushed and no longer opens my garage door. My key remote no longer works as well. I did searching here first and my initial thought is its the BCM. I guess I am just looking for some other people to verify that for me. I have checked all fuses under the dash and under the hood. I don't know if the fuse popping caused this to happen or if maybe something I wired up in the radio did it. I did have to make a ground for the radio as the one on the adapter to the factory harness didn't seem to work. So the ground from the factory radio harness is not hooked up to anything. Maybe this causes some sort of open in the system? It just seems weird that the trunk pop and power locks work with the key on, but not when the key is off. No trunk light or door chime from keys in ignition either.
So if I do need a new BCM is Ebay the way to go? I take it has to match my car perfectly number wise? I can't just buy any BCM for 00-02? I don't know a ton about this car, but I am a bit of a car guy so I definately can dive in and check out anything you guys think I should check.
Thanks.
I am lowly noob, so I have to post in someone elses thread to ask any questions. So I apologize ahead of time for the threadjack.
I have a 01 Maxima GLE. I recently replaced the stock Bose HU with an aftermarket one (thanks to this forum). Anyway in the process I was using the voltmeter to test some things out and accidentally shorted one of the probes on the cig lighter blowing the fuse. I figured no big deal replaced fuse cig lighter has power again. Wrong, I now have no dome lights, door lights, visor lights. The power locks and the trunk pop only work with the key on. The key light does not work. When I flip the visor down instead of the light coming on, it makes the door/trunk open light on the dash come on. Same with the Garage door button, makes the dash door/trunk light come on when pushed and no longer opens my garage door. My key remote no longer works as well. I did searching here first and my initial thought is its the BCM. I guess I am just looking for some other people to verify that for me. I have checked all fuses under the dash and under the hood. I don't know if the fuse popping caused this to happen or if maybe something I wired up in the radio did it. I did have to make a ground for the radio as the one on the adapter to the factory harness didn't seem to work. So the ground from the factory radio harness is not hooked up to anything. Maybe this causes some sort of open in the system? It just seems weird that the trunk pop and power locks work with the key on, but not when the key is off. No trunk light or door chime from keys in ignition either.
So if I do need a new BCM is Ebay the way to go? I take it has to match my car perfectly number wise? I can't just buy any BCM for 00-02? I don't know a ton about this car, but I am a bit of a car guy so I definately can dive in and check out anything you guys think I should check.
Thanks.
#175
Wow, that's a mess. If you're sure that every fuse is good, BCM would be my guess. But from the cigarette lighter?! That doesn't make any sense because it's fused. Try a junkyard or car-part.com for the part. Dealer may be expensive but no harm in checking with Dave Burnette in the meantime.
#176
Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Wow, that's a mess. If you're sure that every fuse is good, BCM would be my guess. But from the cigarette lighter?! That doesn't make any sense because it's fused. Try a junkyard or car-part.com for the part. Dealer may be expensive but no harm in checking with Dave Burnette in the meantime.
#177
The only fusable links in the car are at the battery. Everything else is actually fused. No harm in putting everything back to stock and retracing your steps.
Oh, and also, there is a reason you're not allowed to make a new thread, and hijacking other threads is usually heavily frowned upon.
Oh, and also, there is a reason you're not allowed to make a new thread, and hijacking other threads is usually heavily frowned upon.
#178
Originally Posted by YoMax
I've just connected Apline HU through Metra 70-7551.
I connected RCA plugs and red, yellow, black, blue, and orange wires. First, I did not hear any sound at all. Then I realized that I need to connect blue with stripe wire in order to turn on the bose amplifier. Now the HU works. However every time when I change tracks or radio stations there is a loud click. Does anybody have an idea how to fix this?
I connected RCA plugs and red, yellow, black, blue, and orange wires. First, I did not hear any sound at all. Then I realized that I need to connect blue with stripe wire in order to turn on the bose amplifier. Now the HU works. However every time when I change tracks or radio stations there is a loud click. Does anybody have an idea how to fix this?
I have checked my wiring over and everything is plugged correctly. I have the amp ground capped off by itself.
Any resolution to this problem yet?
#180
Correct. I was told and read on here that it shouldn't be connected to all the other grounds...?
I guess I could try to connect that with the other grounds and see if the sound goes away. But I doubt that would make a difference with the popping noise I'm hearing.
I guess I could try to connect that with the other grounds and see if the sound goes away. But I doubt that would make a difference with the popping noise I'm hearing.
#184
no good. I checked the wire harness and I had actually wired the amp ground and ground together. It was the pink interruption wire that I had capped off on its own since I don't have any use for it.
still hearing the popping noise =(
still hearing the popping noise =(
#191
ok so its my girls car and for christmas i got her a new stereo, kenwood kdc-mp438u.
reason was her bose just stopped working all together and she took it to mechanic and he said just get another one cause that one was not worth time or money to open and fix.
ok so i bought scosche integration kit from cruthfield. which uses kewood speaker outs and allows you to adjust each speaker out through a box in the line to turn down wattage so that aftermarket stereo is converted to basically bose low output system. so you can use the bose speakers with amps and have no problem with the diff olhm set up etc.
so ok i hooked everything up but get no sound?
a)i took wires coming directly out of kenwood head and hooked to speaker and head is working, music could be heard.
b)next i took wires coming out of head unit to scoche box then took those wires coming out of adjustable box and it too was working and could be adjusted by box. so box is fine
c)then i checked fuse just to be sure even though i figured her mechanic would have done that and the fuse labled bose WAS BLOWN!! i then replaced but still no sound.
d)i then poped bose head unit back in figuring that it was probably just the fuse all along but still could not get to turn on so i guess it was a blown bose.
f)i then started to wonder why it fuse under dash blew in the first place and found that she must have jammed something in the trunk and the cup and amp had fallen off and wires to speaker from amp to were off and dangling right next to each othe so obviously at some point they touched and blew fuse and shut the system off.
g)what i dont get is coincidence that speaker and head unit just happened to blow at the same time? i put rear speaker back together and connected wires back properly and fuse up front i replaced is good so why are speakers/amps not working?
headunit is working, scoche adjustable output is working but either all four amps or speakers are blown and i just cant accept that. how could they all go at the same time? no way.
so what am i missing? is there a special way to reset the amps? i disconnecte the battery thinking that might reset or something but i still get no sound? some one please help and thanks in advance to any that may help.
reason was her bose just stopped working all together and she took it to mechanic and he said just get another one cause that one was not worth time or money to open and fix.
ok so i bought scosche integration kit from cruthfield. which uses kewood speaker outs and allows you to adjust each speaker out through a box in the line to turn down wattage so that aftermarket stereo is converted to basically bose low output system. so you can use the bose speakers with amps and have no problem with the diff olhm set up etc.
so ok i hooked everything up but get no sound?
a)i took wires coming directly out of kenwood head and hooked to speaker and head is working, music could be heard.
b)next i took wires coming out of head unit to scoche box then took those wires coming out of adjustable box and it too was working and could be adjusted by box. so box is fine
c)then i checked fuse just to be sure even though i figured her mechanic would have done that and the fuse labled bose WAS BLOWN!! i then replaced but still no sound.
d)i then poped bose head unit back in figuring that it was probably just the fuse all along but still could not get to turn on so i guess it was a blown bose.
f)i then started to wonder why it fuse under dash blew in the first place and found that she must have jammed something in the trunk and the cup and amp had fallen off and wires to speaker from amp to were off and dangling right next to each othe so obviously at some point they touched and blew fuse and shut the system off.
g)what i dont get is coincidence that speaker and head unit just happened to blow at the same time? i put rear speaker back together and connected wires back properly and fuse up front i replaced is good so why are speakers/amps not working?
headunit is working, scoche adjustable output is working but either all four amps or speakers are blown and i just cant accept that. how could they all go at the same time? no way.
so what am i missing? is there a special way to reset the amps? i disconnecte the battery thinking that might reset or something but i still get no sound? some one please help and thanks in advance to any that may help.
#195
now that it has been 2 years and im bumping a very old thread. What is truely the best harness to get now with the stock bose and aftermarket HU. Will that after a while blow the speakers with this type of setup. I have been reading on this and i haven't found the answer i have been looking for since a lot of people have different opinions about this.
I might a pioneer deck from crutchfield probably the Pioneer DEH-P6200BT and from what i have been hearing is the 70-7551 metra harness the best one or something else that i don't know of. I have tried the schosche integration harness with the clarion CZ300 HU and it felt like there was no bass at all. what do you guys think?
P.S. This is for a 1996 Infiniti I30
I might a pioneer deck from crutchfield probably the Pioneer DEH-P6200BT and from what i have been hearing is the 70-7551 metra harness the best one or something else that i don't know of. I have tried the schosche integration harness with the clarion CZ300 HU and it felt like there was no bass at all. what do you guys think?
P.S. This is for a 1996 Infiniti I30
Last edited by mayur914; 05-30-2011 at 09:13 PM.
#196
Your two options are:
1. 70-7551
2. Line output converter, such as the Scosche SLC-4
Your deciding factor is the preout voltage of the aftermarket head unit. If it's 2-3 volts, you need the LOC. If it's 4 or more volts, 70-7551 will suffice.
...But you can also use the LOC on the units with 4v or more, if you choose.
1. 70-7551
2. Line output converter, such as the Scosche SLC-4
Your deciding factor is the preout voltage of the aftermarket head unit. If it's 2-3 volts, you need the LOC. If it's 4 or more volts, 70-7551 will suffice.
...But you can also use the LOC on the units with 4v or more, if you choose.
#197
Ohhh ic ic. Alright so i would have to check out the preout voltage for the DEH-P6200BT that im looking at then. When I do get either the LOC or the 70-7551 would the bass be as good as it was with the bose unit and better with the bass especially? Im not trying to spend money on a new system right now. I know with the setup im questioning about is not going to be the best but hopefully it is as good as stock, what i think is good that is.
If I do get the LOC do i get the NN03BCB harness with it?
If I do get the LOC do i get the NN03BCB harness with it?
Last edited by mayur914; 05-31-2011 at 04:53 PM.
#199
wait im confused i would i run from the aftermarket HU to the LOC then? JW. I was looking at the product and i had to connect the harness to the SLC-4. Do i have to cut the stock harness then?
sorry if im being annoying
sorry if im being annoying
Last edited by mayur914; 05-31-2011 at 07:58 PM.
#200
No cutting. NEVER cut the stock harness.
Aftermarket HU speaker leads to the LOC. You also need a standard 70-7550 for the power wires.
If you don't know what you're doing, maybe you should hire a professional.
Aftermarket HU speaker leads to the LOC. You also need a standard 70-7550 for the power wires.
If you don't know what you're doing, maybe you should hire a professional.