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Building a speaker box

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Old 07-06-2003, 10:48 PM
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Building a speaker box

I want to build a custom speaker box to fill in the back gap... Im not looking to buy a bulky speaker box. Instead, I want to build my own. But I want it to sound good. heres some install that this guy did. That's how I want to do mine but I just want the subs right there. Im going to build a small box and put it on top of my tire rack.. Plexy glass on top of it so u can see both amps and a neon+ distro block. Can you guys tell me the best way to build one of these??????

http://www.botos.com/matthew/maxima/amprack.html

heres tha guys website.
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Old 07-07-2003, 11:37 AM
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It is not very complicated at all!
First you need to decided what sub you want, once the specs for the subs are obtained it will let you know if you should build a ported or sealed box.
Ported is louder better used for SPL competition, more difficult to build.
Sealed is for SQ (sound quality) easier to build.

Once you decide what type of box, then you need to decide how fancy you want the box, do you just want a square box, or a contoured box. A contoured box is best made with fiberglass, square box is easier to build.
Let me know which way you want to go and I can give you more advise.
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Old 07-07-2003, 01:59 PM
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I have 2 JBL 1200.1 Amps to power my audiobahns. I'll be punching 1000 watts max through the subs.

my audiobahns can take up to 1100 watts rms and 1200 watts peak.
heres a pic of what i want mine to look like




* Amps on the bottom
*Subs on the top.

Thats a photoshopped look. Now I gotta put it into reality.
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Old 07-07-2003, 03:41 PM
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so let me ask this right what plays better bass...2 subs in the box or subs built in the car facing the rear or front?
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Old 07-07-2003, 09:28 PM
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look its a real speaker box.. with a cover over them...
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Old 07-08-2003, 06:34 AM
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It is very easy for your trunk setup to look like that pic. All you have to do is build a square box and put a "facing" over it.

Reggaeboyz,
You can acheive better bass with the sub facing the rear about 6 inches away from the rear of the trunk. In my setup I am going for more show, so I will have mine facing inside the cabin! If you want to compete for SPL (BIG HUGE BASS) then you build the wall in the back of your car and have it facing inside the car. Not very practical for daily drivers like myself.
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Old 07-08-2003, 12:50 PM
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aight that sounds good..i might want to do that but ill think on it more
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Old 07-08-2003, 06:24 PM
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Originally posted by image
I have 2 JBL 1200.1 Amps to power my audiobahns. I'll be punching 1000 watts max through the subs.

my audiobahns can take up to 1100 watts rms and 1200 watts peak.
heres a pic of what i want mine to look like




* Amps on the bottom
*Subs on the top.

Thats a photoshopped look. Now I gotta put it into reality.
That doesn't sound right to me. The RMS and peak are way too close.
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Old 07-08-2003, 10:28 PM
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check out there site http://www.audiobahninc.com/products...oferFrame.html

says 1100 watts rms I forgot the peak.
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Old 07-09-2003, 01:22 PM
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Originally posted by image
check out there site http://www.audiobahninc.com/products...oferFrame.html

says 1100 watts rms I forgot the peak.
I'm not doubting that it's 1100W rms. Lots of subs are that high. I'm just pointing out that those numbers cannot be accurate, because the rms and peak are never that close.

For example, my JBL 15" GTi is 800W and 5000W peak. This is mostly because the 800W is just there way of being conservative. A more accurate rating would be 1200W and 5000W. Why do they underrate? Because there is a reputation to be had when you know that company x's product is ALWAYS underrated.

Now I have no doubt you have 1100. I'm guess you're in the 5000W range as well.

Now looking at your sub setup, I don't doubt that these stats don't concern you all that much. From an aesthetic point of view, your setup is great. However, from an acoustical point of view, you have no idea how inefficient you are being.
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Old 07-09-2003, 01:52 PM
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RMS Power Range (Watts) 50-1100

Peak Power Handling (Watts) 2200
- - - - - - - - - - - -- - -
These Audiobahn stats are hard to get. I looked in the box it came with (for both subs) and there was no stat sheets. Im def. getting 2 JBL 1200.1 Amps. And if I run 4 gua to my Cap. then to my distro then split 8 guage to each amp I'll be shooting 1000 watts max. Which seems safe... Dont you guys agree?

Also I want this box to sound good! I guess I gotta build a wholeround good sounding box/good looking setup. Thats where we have to prioritize.
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Old 07-09-2003, 01:54 PM
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Originally posted by image
RMS Power Range (Watts) 50-1100

Peak Power Handling (Watts) 2200
- - - - - - - - - - - -- - -
These Audiobahn stats are hard to get. I looked in the box it came with (for both subs) and there was no stat sheets. Im def. getting 2 JBL 1200.1 Amps. And if I run 4 gua to my Cap. then to my distro then split 8 guage to each amp I'll be shooting 1000 watts max. Which seems safe... Dont you guys agree?
Depends on who you ask. I run about 8 guage for 500W, and 4 gauge for 1000W.
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Old 07-09-2003, 02:11 PM
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yea but the 8 guage is running like not even a foot from the distro - to the amp.. and the other side is 4 guage.. Ive been told by cartoys and some installers that I should be ok.
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Old 07-09-2003, 03:10 PM
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Originally posted by image
yea but the 8 guage is running like not even a foot from the distro - to the amp.. and the other side is 4 guage.. Ive been told by cartoys and some installers that I should be ok.
Your call. You are adding unecessary resistance to the setup. What's the cost of 1 foot of 4 gauge man? This is not worth the savings. If you are worried about the wire fitting into the terminal, get those gold plated connectors where they accept up to a 0 gauge wire, and have an 8 gauge gold plated tip. They only run about $5 each. You definetly need a good ear to hear the difference, but it can definetly be heard, mostly in the clarity at high volumes.
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