powering subs
#1
powering subs
if a sub's RMS rating is at 150 watts, how much of an improvement in both sq and spl wise, would i expect to see if i pushed them at 150 watts? they're being pushed by an old amp making 50 X 2. i want to install these old subs into my dad's car, but thinking of upgrading the amp on it. Each sub is only getting 50 watts, but can handle 150 rms. any imput? thanks
#3
Originally posted by jmax
Depends on the box. You'll need to model it in a box program to get an idea of the difference.
Depends on the box. You'll need to model it in a box program to get an idea of the difference.
#5
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Originally posted by Fosgate Fan
the box will be the same. just thinking about getting a bigger amp. if it won't make a noticeable difference, then i won't get a bigger amp for it.
the box will be the same. just thinking about getting a bigger amp. if it won't make a noticeable difference, then i won't get a bigger amp for it.
Like I said, depends on the box. If box is small enough adding power will help. But if box is on the big side adding power will just make it easier to blow the subs. Don't expect the difference between 50 watts and 150 watts to be huge, it isn't.
#6
Not too sure....
Originally posted by jmax
Don't expect the difference between 50 watts and 150 watts to be huge, it isn't.
Don't expect the difference between 50 watts and 150 watts to be huge, it isn't.
In this case Fosgate Fan is looking at tripling the power. I do believe that will make a difference. Especially if the speakers are made to work with more power.
Sorry jmax, I don't know about all the big numbers and figures bud, but I do know that after more than 15 years of messing around with stereos, my ears won't lie to me.
Just my 2!!,,,,DMAN
#7
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Look at it this way, some 50 watt amps put out 150 watts clean RMS. Some 150 amps put out 65 watts RMS. If you have been buying stereo equipment 15 years you should have realized this 14.5 years ago.
What's the electrical theory, double power and you get 3 dB? 1 watt in car can hit 100 dB's or better with many sub systems. 120 - 125 dB is the pointof permanent hearing damage. So the difference between 50 and 150 in my opinion is very little. Just a magnitude of 3, both numbers being small. Like the difference in an SAT score of 200 and 600. 600 is better but you still won't get into Duke even as a basketball prodigy.
What's the electrical theory, double power and you get 3 dB? 1 watt in car can hit 100 dB's or better with many sub systems. 120 - 125 dB is the pointof permanent hearing damage. So the difference between 50 and 150 in my opinion is very little. Just a magnitude of 3, both numbers being small. Like the difference in an SAT score of 200 and 600. 600 is better but you still won't get into Duke even as a basketball prodigy.
#8
i think that old box is about .75 - .80 cubic ft.
guess i won't need to get a new amp for it then if it won't make a difference. i just always had the idea that if you drive a woofer at its RMS wattage or a little higher, it'll perform at its best.
guess i won't need to get a new amp for it then if it won't make a difference. i just always had the idea that if you drive a woofer at its RMS wattage or a little higher, it'll perform at its best.
#11
Originally posted by jmax
If you push it as hard as the current amp can push and still want more, get a new one. Otherwise why waste the money? In other words don't get new just to have it.
If you push it as hard as the current amp can push and still want more, get a new one. Otherwise why waste the money? In other words don't get new just to have it.
#12
Originally posted by AudioAltima
True, yet then again, look at it as not a waste. He started a basic system off well, with a multi channel amp. This amp can be re-used to power some nice speakers up front in his car. That is assuming that it's a full range amp But it all depends on what he's looking for, IMO if your out for better sound and arent already feeding you fronts a little power, I would definetly consider getting a new small amp (200-250W) and sticking the old 50x2 on your front speakers (as long as they are rated at least 40W each)!
True, yet then again, look at it as not a waste. He started a basic system off well, with a multi channel amp. This amp can be re-used to power some nice speakers up front in his car. That is assuming that it's a full range amp But it all depends on what he's looking for, IMO if your out for better sound and arent already feeding you fronts a little power, I would definetly consider getting a new small amp (200-250W) and sticking the old 50x2 on your front speakers (as long as they are rated at least 40W each)!
on my car, i just have a beginner system with a pair of tens pushed by 400 watts, and an old 150 watt amp pushing my rears.
#13
Originally posted by Fosgate Fan
no these subs are for my dad.
on my car, i just have a beginner system with a pair of tens pushed by 400 watts, and an old 150 watt amp pushing my rears.
no these subs are for my dad.
on my car, i just have a beginner system with a pair of tens pushed by 400 watts, and an old 150 watt amp pushing my rears.
#14
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Originally posted by AudioAltima
Pushing the rears? Don't you want the sound to come from the front of the car? You'll notice a world of difference powering JUST your front speakers rather then the rears. That jusy my opinion though!
Pushing the rears? Don't you want the sound to come from the front of the car? You'll notice a world of difference powering JUST your front speakers rather then the rears. That jusy my opinion though!
#15
Originally posted by jmax
He did say beginner system. That's how most beginners start.
He did say beginner system. That's how most beginners start.
not sure for the subs. gotta do more research. (yea i know my name says fosgate, since i have a pair of HEs. but i wanna broaden my views on other brands)
#16
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The cheap and easy way for better fron stage sound is to mod the door to hold a 6 1/2 and amp it with at least 50 watts. Is that a 3rd gen Max? I haven't seen the door panel in a third gen so I don't know how difficult it would be to get it to hold a 6 1/2. For most cars it doesn't involve much work
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