Aight, I'll tackle the install this weekend
I figure why not try it myself, I can always give up and take it in if it comes to that, and I got you guys to help me...thanks! What do I need, wiring harness and antenna adapter for the receiver. Is using the stock wires for my speakers ok (no speaker amp)? Will this affect my sound at all? If it's ok, do I just bypass the bose amps (directions on how would be helpful) and plug the speaker wires into the new speakers? I don't need to worry about any electrical stuff or fuses with just doing the head unit and speakers right? I can't find the diagrams I saw before on how to dismantle dash and door panels (crutchfield insturctions scanned to someones website). If anyone has this please give me the link. Also, if I need to wire new speaker wire any instructions/diagrams for this will be helpful.
Thanks,
PJ
PS-No need to post to any of my other threads in this forum
Thanks,
PJ
PS-No need to post to any of my other threads in this forum
started install today
Got my wiring harness and antenna adapter and went at it (got the removal of dash and door/rear deck instructions)...I guess nobody saw my post. Well I have a few questions. I got allthe wires hooked up on the back of the receiver and there are 2 yellows comming off my clarion (bus power 3A fuse, then regular power 15a fuse) and only one yellow on the wiring harness...I guess that "bus" is cd changer or sumtin like that and just ran it to the other yellow (w/ 15 a fuse). Was this correct? Also, theres an illumination connector from the clarion receiver, but 2 of the same color (illumination and dimmer) from the wiring harness. I didn't know what dimmer was and just connected the two illuminations. What is the dimmer for? Well I powered the receiver back up and it turned on and seemed to be working (no sound cuz new speakers not hooked up) and the antenna went up when i switched to radio. I did all my connections by twisting the wires then electrical taping. Tomorrow I am most likely tackling speakers. Oh yea on the drive home from my friend garage (dash left open with 4-ways, cigarette lighter, and "at" switch unplugged) my turn signals wouldn't work, the light went on but no blinking is this because the 4 way is disconnected? And is it bad to drive with "at" switch disconnected?
Thanks a lot,
PJ
Thanks a lot,
PJ
install info
The wire with the 15 amp fuse (main unit power)should be switched, which means that it is only on when your key is on. This wire is usually red, it probably is red comeing from the harness.
The yellow 3 amp is for the head unit memory, and is not switched. It has juice all the time to hold station presets, clock ect,ect.
The thing you need to be carefull about is if your, if you don't turn your unit off, it will drain your battery.
Twisting with electrical tape will work to connect, but it would be better to use butt connectors (and a crimping tool), or soldier and tape.
Neither tool costs much $ ($15-20), and will come in handy pretty often. Another great toll ($5) to have is a voltage tester. You just connect on end to ground and touch a connector/wire with the other end a it lights up if you got power. It's great for trouble shooting, and hooking up your head you can find out which of the hot leads is switched ect.
Good luck, take your time!
The yellow 3 amp is for the head unit memory, and is not switched. It has juice all the time to hold station presets, clock ect,ect.
The thing you need to be carefull about is if your, if you don't turn your unit off, it will drain your battery.
Twisting with electrical tape will work to connect, but it would be better to use butt connectors (and a crimping tool), or soldier and tape.
Neither tool costs much $ ($15-20), and will come in handy pretty often. Another great toll ($5) to have is a voltage tester. You just connect on end to ground and touch a connector/wire with the other end a it lights up if you got power. It's great for trouble shooting, and hooking up your head you can find out which of the hot leads is switched ect.
Good luck, take your time!
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