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Who here has run speaker wire through 4th gen doors?

Old Jul 12, 2003 | 11:57 PM
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Who here has run speaker wire through 4th gen doors?

Has anyone been able to easily run speaker wire to their front doors in a 4th gen? It looks difficult. I will need to soon to wire up my components. How hard is this task?
Thanks
Old Jul 14, 2003 | 10:14 PM
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Re: Who here has run speaker wire through 4th gen doors?

Originally posted by kingrukus
Has anyone been able to easily run speaker wire to their front doors in a 4th gen? It looks difficult. I will need to soon to wire up my components. How hard is this task?
Thanks
It is not hard at all. Just lift up the door sills and run the wiring from there. You'll find a white, plastic piece where the factory wire runs thru.
Old Jul 14, 2003 | 10:20 PM
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i think he means into the doors, i'm kinda curious as well gonna be installing my system this week.
Old Jul 14, 2003 | 11:14 PM
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okay there is a rubber grommet covering the hole on the door. Take that off and you will put the wire in through there. Now the hard part is putting the wiring through the opening on the body of the car. I wrapped a coat hanger wire on the tip of the speaker wire and pushed the way through the hole and pulled the wire. Once you find the opening it shouldnt be too hard. Hope this helps.
Old Jul 15, 2003 | 04:04 AM
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Originally posted by max_pusher
okay there is a rubber grommet covering the hole on the door. Take that off and you will put the wire in through there. Now the hard part is putting the wiring through the opening on the body of the car. I wrapped a coat hanger wire on the tip of the speaker wire and pushed the way through the hole and pulled the wire. Once you find the opening it shouldnt be too hard. Hope this helps.
Thanks...but were you able to get the wire to go within the same tubing as the rest of the wires, or did you have to run it outside of that? And you were able to keep the wire through the grommet, correct?
Old Jul 15, 2003 | 10:06 AM
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I ran my wire through the grommet. All you have to do is make a little slit in the rubber so its easier to pull through. It takes little to no time.
Old Jul 15, 2003 | 03:49 PM
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Originally posted by Pizatt
I ran my wire through the grommet. All you have to do is make a little slit in the rubber so its easier to pull through. It takes little to no time.
Thanks...but were you able to get the wire to go within the same tubing as the rest of the wires, or did you have to run it outside of that?
Old Jul 16, 2003 | 06:40 AM
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I didnt cut the electrical tape that holds all the other wires together. So if that is what you are asking no. I did run them next to the other wires and then taped them up
Old Jul 16, 2003 | 12:29 PM
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AS a 3 gen owner, I am surprised that there aren't existing speaker-wires-plus-some in the door of a 4 gen. I removed the Bose amplifier and speaker, cut the audio signal wires running to and from the amplifier (the amplifier power leads are solid black and red on mine), twisted the audio signals back together, and stuck them directly on the new speaker terminals. No new wires, plus you can buy a $7.00 adapter plug that connects the original speaker wires in the harness to the wires of an after market head unit. You don't need huge cable for speakers. At 4 ohms, 20 watts draws 2.2 amps and 100 watts draws 4.5 amps. 18 gauge stranded wire will carry about 5.5 amps, 22 gauge will carry 2.2 amps, at least for the length of a car.
Old Jul 16, 2003 | 01:48 PM
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Originally posted by a5d
AS a 3 gen owner, I am surprised that there aren't existing speaker-wires-plus-some in the door of a 4 gen. I removed the Bose amplifier and speaker, cut the audio signal wires running to and from the amplifier (the amplifier power leads are solid black and red on mine), twisted the audio signals back together, and stuck them directly on the new speaker terminals. No new wires, plus you can buy a $7.00 adapter plug that connects the original speaker wires in the harness to the wires of an after market head unit. You don't need huge cable for speakers. At 4 ohms, 20 watts draws 2.2 amps and 100 watts draws 4.5 amps. 18 gauge stranded wire will carry about 5.5 amps, 22 gauge will carry 2.2 amps, at least for the length of a car.
It isnt that simple in my case...I am running 2 sets of speaker wire per door...tweeter and mid.
Old Jul 17, 2003 | 04:26 AM
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Originally posted by kingrukus


It isnt that simple in my case...I am running 2 sets of speaker wire per door...tweeter and mid.

Use the BOSE amplifier power supply wires (appropriately disconnected at each end of original harness) for the mid, and use the original audio wires for tweeter. Or you can just put your cross-over in the door, and run one set of wires to the door, then split into two at the crossover inside the door. If you are amplifying each door, use original amp/speaker wires, then split in door.

It's not that I think you are wrong, it's just that my experience has been that any attempt to put new wire through the flexible weather proof boots is a messy business, requiring stiff lead wire through some tight spaces. This runs the risk of damaging the boot or the insulation on existing wires or requires some kind of slit or external tape job. Four new wires will also stiffen the boot and possibly cause it to come unseated when the door opens or closes.

I'd consider putting the tweeters up higher, say in the front roof pillars, for best fidelity. That's where Nissan put them in my Pathfinder, probably because of all the engine, road and wind noise. In a quieter environment, high frequencies are directional and can get absorbed in the carpeting and clothing if they originate under your legs.
Old Jul 17, 2003 | 11:54 PM
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Originally posted by a5d



Use the BOSE amplifier power supply wires (appropriately disconnected at each end of original harness) for the mid, and use the original audio wires for tweeter. Or you can just put your cross-over in the door, and run one set of wires to the door, then split into two at the crossover inside the door. If you are amplifying each door, use original amp/speaker wires, then split in door.

It's not that I think you are wrong, it's just that my experience has been that any attempt to put new wire through the flexible weather proof boots is a messy business, requiring stiff lead wire through some tight spaces. This runs the risk of damaging the boot or the insulation on existing wires or requires some kind of slit or external tape job. Four new wires will also stiffen the boot and possibly cause it to come unseated when the door opens or closes.

I'd consider putting the tweeters up higher, say in the front roof pillars, for best fidelity. That's where Nissan put them in my Pathfinder, probably because of all the engine, road and wind noise. In a quieter environment, high frequencies are directional and can get absorbed in the carpeting and clothing if they originate under your legs.

I should have mentioned originally that I had no Bose stereo from stock. I had the base system (4 speakers and a single din cassette deck).
Old Jul 18, 2003 | 04:36 AM
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You should have 16-18 gauge audio signal wires going into the door from the back of your radio to your front speakers.

Accoding to the wiring diagram for a '92 there is an amplifier in the trunk that serves both speakers. Don't really know what you have in teh trunk.
Old Jul 18, 2003 | 04:47 AM
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The standard speakers should have one pair of 16-18 gauge audio signal wires going into the door from the back of the radio to the front speakers.

Accoding to the wiring diagram for a '92 there is an amplifier somewhere that serves both rear speakers. Don't really know what you have in the trunk.
Old Jul 18, 2003 | 06:51 AM
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I apologize to the moderator because my replies have produced "Cannot display this screen" a couple of times. I have since found out that this means they went through.
Old Jul 18, 2003 | 01:38 PM
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