MaineI30

Ok .. I have a direct-wired Valentine One with a remote display unit. As you know, the cables connecting the V1 display to the power unit and the power unit to the main unit are regular telephone wire.

The wire is picking up electrical interference from two items and is causing my V1 to give a false alert. I need some kind of RFI-deadening/insulating WRAP to wrap around this V1 wire so that the noise from other wires does not cross-pollute the signal on the V1 line and cause this.

Who makes a wire wrap like that?

thanks,
/aac

mingo

iTrader: (4)

but close. u got a faulty v1 send it back. mines fine. or did u use a real telephone wire? wrap it up with foil followed by a thing peice of rubber followed by e tape. if that doesn't work. then the other wraps u'l buy will most likely not work oh shiny part goes on the inside

MaineI30

No guy, it's not faulty. Yours may be fine but are you running the wires next to other wires that might generate noise? Probably not.

I've seen this happen with other V1's. It's RFI noise from the other wires with voltage/RFI in them (like a strobe cable) and sometimes when I adjust my driver-side mirror .. this also use to happen in my 95 Max when I really punched the engine.. the V1 would false (a different unit).. electrical noise from the engine.

I need to WRAP the wire .. and I will try your suggestion and let you know. Electrical tape and aluminum foil? Worth a shot I guess... :-)

TimW

iTrader: (6)

by swapping the TFT with another. I had cheesed up the tape that goes over the transformer.. and I was getting some odd RF interference. So I had a friend at an avionics shop. he gave me a partial roll of metal tape. It did the trick. I have it sitting right here.. Scotch brand, Core Series 591 (made in new zealand). I dont think its cheap if you had to buy. I think he said the full roll was almost $100. I can send you some. how much do you need?

pic of tape sent to your email....

-tim

mingo

iTrader: (4)

use silicone too. use it between the foil and the wire. or was it silicon. hmm forgot hehe. just try it. dont' work the run the wire differently, i got strobes but it doesn't effect teh v1.

MaineI30

I might figure out a way to run the wire differntly, kinda tuff since my volume control needs to be right by my left side in my setup...

I noticed your mention of strobes on your car page. Pardon my ignorance, but do you have "strobes" or do you have STROBES? Because it's clearly the power supply for my strobes that's causing the bursted RFI. I talked to a guy who does these things for the state police and he said they have RFI problems too that are not always easy to solve.

Tim thanks for the tip on the tape. I will probably need a lot, to wrap a cable from just under my dashboard back to behind my drivers' seat. I should not take yours. If you can think of a place to buy it online, tell me. Unless you never anticipate using it again, then tell me a fair price and I will buy the whole roll from you.

/aac

MaineI30

Well here is an update from my afternoon of messing with it:

I have isolated it to a particular 5-foot length of wire (the wire that leads from my Valentine 1 audio unit to the V1 power unit under the dash). If I pull this out from under the pillar it shares with the strobe cable, and turn on the strobes, the V1 does not false. But if I tuck it back in there (right up against the strobe cable all cozy), it falses. Running the V1 audio unit through another path is an option, but not a very good one. I also wrapped the strobe cable in electrical tape and aluminum foil, seems to be no help.

Another weird thing is that when I use my driver's side power mirror, the V1 falses. Another weird mystery. The V1 wires aren't run near the wires for the mirror. But my hunch is the mirror's motor is sending some noise back on the electrical system. I'm tempted to forget the direct-wire deal altogether and find a low-profile way to power it from the lighter again.

Thoughts?

/aac

mingo

iTrader: (4)

i mean your v1 is weird.i ran my power from the fuse box. instead of tapping into a wire. i used a wire connector to plug it into a spare fuse slot. and for the strobes, i did the same thing. but my strobes are on the outside. i got the power from the fusebox under the hood. (did same thing tapped inot spare fuse slot "empty slot") i then ran a ground wire instead of power inot the car to a switch then onto a bolt. no noise. and i ran my v1 cable through the a pillar and never heard a beep when i adjusted my mirror. sorry i have no clue on this one then.. i suggest you take a volt meter and test your power. perhaps your power regulator is faulty, causing all your wires to carry extra current.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

MCM Electronics sells cable shielding stuff by the foot. it's not cheap, but it's worth a shot. They only come in 50ft lengths.
This is out of the catalog that's about 6-8 months old.. they might have something new also.. you may try giving them a call.
(also check their website. http://www.mcmelectronics.com)


part# 24-2175
50' solid copper shield tape, 1" wide. $29.95

part# 36f220wb
50' braided, tinned copper shielding wire. 0.125" I.D. $28.95

part# 36f225wb
50' braided, tinned copper shielding wire. 0.21875" I.D. $36.95

part# 36f221wb
50' braided, tinned copper shielding wire. 0.20313" I.D. $42.95


the bottom three are the same thing, just different sizes. I'm not sure which you'd need, but I'd think the small one would work. the top one is basically the metal tape TimW was talking about. it's made by TaperWire instead of scotch though. the braided cables are made by Belden.

Hope that helps.. good luck!

One other thing.. does the V1 have regular phone plugs on the end, or does it just use the flat phone wire with stripped ends? Either way, you could go buy some 4 wire shilded microphone cable or something and have ends put on it at radio shack for $1 each ( I used to work there several years ago, and that's what we charged back then).. it may be worth a shot also..

Chebosto

iTrader: (1)

you just need thicker insulated wire.
telephone wire only has like 1/4 mm of padding. the dielectric constant is too little to prevent interference.
yada yada yada, you just need to separate the wire from each other.. coax? maybe too thick..

only way is to move the wires away from other power sources in the car.

jmax

You can get some foil tape at home depot. It's sold with the insulation. Thus it must be insulating foil tape. It is used in construction to seal gaps in insulation. And it isn't even expensive.

MaineI30

No, it's all fixed. I disabled laser detection on the V1 (if I get the laser warning, I'm dead anyway....) and all the problems stopped.

/aac