Best sub for 1 cu. ft.?
#1
Best sub for 1 cu. ft.?
I am currently running an Orion 10 DVC in a 1 cu. ft. sealed cabinet and it is at about the end of it's life.
What do you think would be the best replacement sub for this cabinet? I can rebuild the face of the cabinet to hold either a 10" or a 12". Single sub only - I need the trunk space.
My music tastes are vary from Chingy to Metallica to Toby Keith. Since I am out of the competative realm SPL is not that big a deal but I still like a bit of thump.
I look forward to your suggestions and comments.
Thanks
Largest
What do you think would be the best replacement sub for this cabinet? I can rebuild the face of the cabinet to hold either a 10" or a 12". Single sub only - I need the trunk space.
My music tastes are vary from Chingy to Metallica to Toby Keith. Since I am out of the competative realm SPL is not that big a deal but I still like a bit of thump.
I look forward to your suggestions and comments.
Thanks
Largest
#2
Originally Posted by largestal
I am currently running an Orion 10 DVC in a 1 cu. ft. sealed cabinet and it is at about the end of it's life.
What do you think would be the best replacement sub for this cabinet? I can rebuild the face of the cabinet to hold either a 10" or a 12". Single sub only - I need the trunk space.
My music tastes are vary from Chingy to Metallica to Toby Keith. Since I am out of the competative realm SPL is not that big a deal but I still like a bit of thump.
I look forward to your suggestions and comments.
Thanks
Largest
What do you think would be the best replacement sub for this cabinet? I can rebuild the face of the cabinet to hold either a 10" or a 12". Single sub only - I need the trunk space.
My music tastes are vary from Chingy to Metallica to Toby Keith. Since I am out of the competative realm SPL is not that big a deal but I still like a bit of thump.
I look forward to your suggestions and comments.
Thanks
Largest
also...where are you located? i am trying to find a 1.0 cubic feet sealed box for the perfect 12.1D.
#3
#6
#7
Originally Posted by MaxSE03
#9
Originally Posted by HitManSE
The best sub ive heard on 1cu.ft is by far the Elemental Designs 12A. Powered by a Hifonics Brutus BX1000 amp ($300ish ) so its not exactly too costly of a setup, but it does pound like hell.
#10
The ED12K sounds alright, its pretty much even with a JLw312 so it hold its own pretty well. I have not heard a perfect so I cant really comment. But I will say the ED is by far the sexiest looking sub ive ever seen
Honestly, Id tell you to port it, regardless of brand.
Honestly, Id tell you to port it, regardless of brand.
#12
Originally Posted by Cool J
port it huh? i was gonna go with a sealed setup. i am going for sq not spl
Just because you port the box does not mean its all SPL, it all depends on what frequency the port is tuned to.
If you wany SQ then tune it to 27hz. If you want a mix if both SQ/SPL have it tuned to 32hz. If you want SPL tune it to 35+hz. The db drag guys tune it to about 55hz for a one note burp, sounds like @ss but its loud.
The ported design will just let the sub reach its limits using less power, for example. If you got the ED12a in a 1ft box using 1200watts, its would pound just as hard (if not a bit harder) with a ported box using only 600watts. Efficiency is the key. Porting allow the sub to be more efficient.
Check out www.caraudioforum.com (use search) for more info in you need. You'll find A LOT more useful audio info on that site then on the org.
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
With 1 cubic foot sealed I would get an Adire Audio Brahma 12". It is my favorite sub style for almost the past two years. But I would build a new enclosure that can contain the bull without exploding or leaking like a fire hose. Minimum 1" thick enclosure walls if MDF. Same if you go with the Ed 12. You will not be able to port this sub in a 1 cubic foot box and still get good sound. Port dimensions alone would amount to more than 1 cubic foot. Ported has potential for 3 to 12 dB more SPL than sealed. Possibly more in extreme cases.
For the most accurate and useful info go to autosound2000.com.
For the most accurate and useful info go to autosound2000.com.
#14
Agreed. The Brahma just sounds more natural and overall is a better sub. Its just that it costs more, to me its worth it. Its just a matter of is that extra difference down low worth it to you. I say one brahma, even sealed with 600rms would still shock some1 as to how loud it would get.
#15
Thanks for the comments. Tough decision.
My cabinet is airtight. Before I cut the sub hole, I drilled it for an air valve and pressurized it to 60psi. It held overnight.
Any other suggestions??
My cabinet is airtight. Before I cut the sub hole, I drilled it for an air valve and pressurized it to 60psi. It held overnight.
Any other suggestions??
#16
I recommend the JL Audio 12W6AE (anniversary edition). I have the non-AE which is now discontinued but is very similar to the AE. I'm very happy with the sound. Oh, and my box is also 1 cubic foot sealed. Good overall bass with short rolloff, just the way I like it. Now I just have to get rid of the rattles, one at a time.
#17
What most people dont realize is that bass is naturally boosted inside a car. Ever octave lower you go, you get a 12db boost. At 80hz bass is boosted by 12db, 40hz its boosted 24db, & at 20hz its boosted by 36db. Considering every time you increase 6db your basically doubling your acoustical power in terms of volume.
GeoLemon on CAF kinda gave me a lecture about that. It makes sense & IS the main reason you can get big bass in a car.
Even sealed subs will have very little roll off & stay flat due to this.
Depending on how powerful of a setup you got, sealed it feels like your getting hit with a sledge hammer. Ported it feels like getting hit by a semi
Btw- if any1 hasnt felt 145-150db...it hurts. Felt like jello & actually was kinda hard to breath every time the bass hit hard.
GeoLemon on CAF kinda gave me a lecture about that. It makes sense & IS the main reason you can get big bass in a car.
Even sealed subs will have very little roll off & stay flat due to this.
Depending on how powerful of a setup you got, sealed it feels like your getting hit with a sledge hammer. Ported it feels like getting hit by a semi
Btw- if any1 hasnt felt 145-150db...it hurts. Felt like jello & actually was kinda hard to breath every time the bass hit hard.
#19
Originally Posted by jmax
Numbers are off a bit in the above post. Off by about double the realistic increases for in car low frequency extension.
So since you know what the "realistic" increases are care to point them out
Im guessin your saying the gains are more like...
80hz: 6db
40hz: 12db
20hz: 18db
Si? no Si?
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
I don't have the curve in my head. But I know in a car the size of the maxima you should have between 12 and 20 dB gain at 20 Hz. Most likely close to 20 dB. I don't know the order of the increase - 3, 6, 9, 12 dB or whatever per octave. It is undoubtably common knowledge to many on carsound.com. And it can be looked up fairly easy in many resourses such as the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook by Vance ****ason. But the most accurate and extensive testing has been done by Autosound 2000 independently or by speaker design engineers. I would not be surprised if you could find it in the tech or tutorial sections at jlaudio.com, jbl.com, etc.
#21
HitMan
My old Toyota Corolla (long time ago) held 147. Small cabin in the car felt like a damn linebacker hitting you on certain notes. Other notes would give a girl an orgasm. I really miss that car (and some of my hearing)
My old Toyota Corolla (long time ago) held 147. Small cabin in the car felt like a damn linebacker hitting you on certain notes. Other notes would give a girl an orgasm. I really miss that car (and some of my hearing)
#22
My Pioneer TS-w255c 10" subs are in 1 cu ft per sub sealed boxes, and when I had only 1 hooked up it hit pretty hard, and a LOT lower than most 12" subs..700w peak, 350 RMS driven by 600w from a 1200w legacy 4 chan amp..the subs run $100 each from Crutchfield...Crutchfield also has Kenwood Tornados 10 and 12" subs buy one get one free for like $129 and $139 respectively right now..I'm building a somwhat custom box for my 10s to take up less trunk space, and I'm thinking about getting a set of 10" Tornados and putting them on the sides of the trunk in ported enclosures..
The Tornados don't hit as LOW but they hit harder than my Pioneers do..
The Tornados don't hit as LOW but they hit harder than my Pioneers do..
#23
Originally Posted by jmax
I don't have the curve in my head. But I know in a car the size of the maxima you should have between 12 and 20 dB gain at 20 Hz. Most likely close to 20 dB. I don't know the order of the increase - 3, 6, 9, 12 dB or whatever per octave. It is undoubtably common knowledge to many on carsound.com. And it can be looked up fairly easy in many resourses such as the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook by Vance ****ason. But the most accurate and extensive testing has been done by Autosound 2000 independently or by speaker design engineers. I would not be surprised if you could find it in the tech or tutorial sections at jlaudio.com, jbl.com, etc.
I was going to build a 3.5cu.ft box & port it to about 32hz.
I was aiming more for 30hz at 1st, but no longer sure.
Any opinions jmax?
largestal: Like I said, mid 140's-150 hurts. You could seriously feel your eardrums ache every time the bass hits hard. Feels like they are being shoved into the skull even further. I have no interest in getting that loud though. Ill be more then satisfied with mid 130's. I just want more of a SQ type of setup.
btw-I recall seeing a thread over on CAF about a 33hz test tone
#24
Originally Posted by HitManSE
I kinda looked into, will do more research on it later though.
btw-I recall seeing a thread over on CAF about a 33hz test tone
btw-I recall seeing a thread over on CAF about a 33hz test tone
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by HitManSE
I kinda looked into, will do more research on it later though. To be honest, it did nothing but confuse me even further Now I dont know if I should port my Brahma or seal it up Either way its going to get frightingly loud, but I want what sounds best. Up to this point, ive always belives thats ported.
I was going to build a 3.5cu.ft box & port it to about 32hz.
I was aiming more for 30hz at 1st, but no longer sure.
Any opinions jmax?
largestal: Like I said, mid 140's-150 hurts. You could seriously feel your eardrums ache every time the bass hits hard. Feels like they are being shoved into the skull even further. I have no interest in getting that loud though. Ill be more then satisfied with mid 130's. I just want more of a SQ type of setup.
btw-I recall seeing a thread over on CAF about a 33hz test tone
I was going to build a 3.5cu.ft box & port it to about 32hz.
I was aiming more for 30hz at 1st, but no longer sure.
Any opinions jmax?
largestal: Like I said, mid 140's-150 hurts. You could seriously feel your eardrums ache every time the bass hits hard. Feels like they are being shoved into the skull even further. I have no interest in getting that loud though. Ill be more then satisfied with mid 130's. I just want more of a SQ type of setup.
btw-I recall seeing a thread over on CAF about a 33hz test tone
If you want to go with a box that large I would use the B15 instead of the B12. That large box will really increase the low frequency extension. Brahma's don't need an emphasized low frequency extension. For example a 10 inch brahma can hit harder and lower in 0.6 cubic feet sealed than any twelve I have heard before. And as well as many average 15's in much larger boxes.
Does your 3.5 cubic feet include the port and sub displacement? If not I have a nice ported plan for the 4th gen max for a 15 inch Adire Tumult. Roughly 2.5 cubic feet. With your tuning frequency it would likely work well with the B15. If you are interested email me. I will pull out the plans on Monday when I have a day off to send you specifics, j_grieve33@hotmail.com
If you need test tones just download winisd and hook up a cd recorder. Or load the program onto a laptop and hook it up to your car system. CF33 stories have been around for years now.
#26
Originally Posted by jmax
If you want to go with a box that large I would use the B15 instead of the B12. That large box will really increase the low frequency extension. Brahma's don't need an emphasized low frequency extension. For example a 10 inch brahma can hit harder and lower in 0.6 cubic feet sealed than any twelve I have heard before. And as well as many average 15's in much larger boxes.
Does your 3.5 cubic feet include the port and sub displacement? If not I have a nice ported plan for the 4th gen max for a 15 inch Adire Tumult. Roughly 2.5 cubic feet. With your tuning frequency it would likely work well with the B15. If you are interested email me. I will pull out the plans on Monday when I have a day off to send you specifics, j_grieve33@hotmail.com
If you need test tones just download winisd and hook up a cd recorder. Or load the program onto a laptop and hook it up to your car system. CF33 stories have been around for years now.
Does your 3.5 cubic feet include the port and sub displacement? If not I have a nice ported plan for the 4th gen max for a 15 inch Adire Tumult. Roughly 2.5 cubic feet. With your tuning frequency it would likely work well with the B15. If you are interested email me. I will pull out the plans on Monday when I have a day off to send you specifics, j_grieve33@hotmail.com
If you need test tones just download winisd and hook up a cd recorder. Or load the program onto a laptop and hook it up to your car system. CF33 stories have been around for years now.
What I have IS a 15. I got the Brahma MKII 15" sitting at home, in the box collecting dust, along with two amps...collecting dust
The 3.5 cu.ft I was thinking about included port, sub displacment & if need be even a brace...you know what, ill continue with the rest in an email.
I dont want to get into detail here & thread jack
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12-18-2014 10:48 PM