I have the 115 amp alternator and it seems to dim the lights alot when barely turned up vol level like 14 of 55 my system consists of a pioneer 6500, Kicker KX1200.1 sub amp, sony xm-280gtx for components, 2-12" comp VR dvc, and a stinger 1 farad digital top. In the past i have had vehicles with 60 amp alternator and never had this problem. Does anyone know of a high out put alternator? Or is mine just acting up? Is it me or does that steel plating behind the rear seat suck or what for sound travel? (99' SE Auto) 47,000 miles
Thanx

 

I have the same problem in my car. I think the stock altenator is just crap.

 

I heard of a company called ohio generator, try them out. You might also want to upgrade your battery to a Optima yellow top, it is designed for systems. Good Luck

 

See my sig.....Im putting out close to 1000 watts total and my lights NEVER dim even on the lowest and loudest of bass notes! Dont know what to tell you.

 

My lights dim like hell. I am running a JBL 1200.1 pushing 2 Kicker 12L5's and a JBL 80.4 pushing a set of kicker resolution 6.5 components, controlled by an Alpine 7894.

 

LOL! Ever heard of a class-d amp?

 

I also got a JBL 1200.1 pushing a Brahma 12" and MTX 50 x 4 pushing a Polk comp set and my car dims horribly, even when doing 80mph on the freeway.

 

Sin, the MTX6500d is a Class D amp. Class D amps are among the most efficient at the sacrifice of SQ.

 

The reason the JBLs kill the electrical system is because they run at a low ohm rating. They are actually 1 ohm stable. This draws a tremendous amount of power. I'd recommend a high output alternator, and a 2nd battery mounted in trunk as close to amp as possible.

Don't just add a 2nd battery because thats just one more thing for your alternator to charge. Do it the right way and go for the high amp output alternator WITH a 2nd battery. Be sure to get at least 200 amps. (assuming your running a 1000+ watt amplifier)

 

Or you could also add like 1/4 farad capacitors at each headlight to prevent dimming. Won't solve your voltage dips, but decreases annoying headlight dimming

 

i run my JBL 1200.1 at 1 ohm, its max current draw is 114 amps. thats enough to kill the alternator all by itself. my mtx has a max current draw of 50 amps. add those up plus hvac, HU, etc and my car is dying for more current. I wish i could just install a 2nd alternator under the hood. That would be cost more efficent if it didn't require so much custom modifications. I guess thats the cost we have to pay for bass.

 

i took the sheet metal behind the rear seats out of my max as well as the rear speakers. my box is to big to fit through the hole there so i don't have to worry about it ever flying through the car if I got into an accident. I can definately tell a difference with the sheet gone though.

 

I do have a optima battery, that only does good when the car is off alternator keeps things going when the car is going, my kicker is putting out 1500 watts at 1 ohm and current is 150 amps thats what size of fuse it came with.

 

My amp is class D to mine puts out 1500 watts rms really don't know how your system stays charged the car itself uses @100 amps of the alternator for all the electronics. The L in se-L must mean lightning powered

 

is there a such thing as an Over-drive pulley? I'd buy one even though my performance would be hampered.

 

I run my JBL BP1200.1 at 2 ohms. Even with that said, there are class a/b amps which run at 4 ohms that still draw more current whiles putting out the same wattage.

 

I also got the jbl bp1200.1 and there 4 channel amp. I'm running an underdrive pulley too. My headlights use to blink, but when I upgraded to HID's my blinking problem was solved

 

yeah, a/b amps suck ton of juice. i remember the older orion xtr used to make around 1200 rms but sucked over 200 amps.

 

You have a udp with that equipment...You are brave! Do HID's really suck that much less power?


hmmmmmm

 

For all of u pushing 1000w+ systems I would def recomend 1.0+ caps and red/yellow Optima's. This setup solved my boys prob when we did his system (jbl 1200.1 & rf puching 65x4) if not Ohio Gen. make quality products and are worth it especially if u ever drive in traffic. oh 1.0 caps are rated up to 1000w more than that I'd get a 2.0 cap. Also HID's do draw less power (@35w) so that would be reason for them not dimming.

BTW i know this after doing many a systems and actually losing a good percentage of my hearing do to my car stereo. Didnt realise I had lost some hearing until after failing a hearing tests and not being able to go to the police academy! U have been warned.

just my $.02
-carlos

 

the minimum my hid's can run at, I think is 9 volts.