i asked this on 5th generation forums..but i will try again here..

i have a component system for the front with crossovers and tweeters

i need to hook the tweeters and speakers to the crsosovers and then run speaker wire from teh x-over to the head unit (im not using an amp)

im gonna mount the crossovers somewhere inside the body, not on/inside the doors

now...since my speakers are inside the doors, and my crossover and tweeter are in the body, how/where do i run speaker wire from teh speaker to the body??? i know there's a rubber insulation that covers the wires going from teh door to the body, but i disconnected the end going INTO the body (it has a screw -- very hard to get out) and saw that there was an actual wiring harness right @ the edge of the rectangular hole, thus, no space for a speaker wire to fit...

i noticed that the rear doors have no such screw, and consequently do NOT have the wire harness at the edge of the rectangular hole, and i was able to fit in teh speaker wire INSIDE of the insulation and feed it into the body...it looks really clean.

but i gotta figure out the fronts...

here are the options i've heard:
1. drill holes (do NOT want to do this)
2. run the wires thru the hole behind/below the steering wheel going thru the engine bay firewall and from there, sneaking behind the fenders and then fed around the outside of the door panel, finally reaching the seaker.. (yeah..pretty complex)

Please help!! pictures, advice...anything...i want/need to get this done a.s.a.p.!!

 

drilling is not that bad. trust me. its 2 small holes on each side and your set. a 12volt drill and a bit will work perfectly. drilling was my last resort and i wish i did it first... it would have saved me tons of time.

 

Yup, those are your options. Nissan made it difficult to fish wires thru the front doors. The only way to fish wires thru the boot is to take the whole door off and remove the bolt holding the boot. But, who wants to do that! Anyway, when I installed my components, I found it easier to note the wires going to the factory speakers. Then note all the wires coming OUT the kick panels openings that are coming from each door. For the passenger's side it was easy because there wasn't much obstruction like the driver's side. Note the wire colors going to the factory speaker. Cut that same wire coming out the kick panel opening. Hook up a multimeter and check for ohms. If it reads about 4 ohms, then you know you got the right wire. (Note, if you have the factory Bose tweeters, you need to cut these, as well, because they're tied in with the door speakers. But, you don't use the Bose tweeters). Now, for the driver's side it was a little difficult. It's hard to access thru the kick panel opening because its obstructed by so many things underneath the dash. Your best option (like I did) is to drill a hole thru the door underneath the boot inside the door jamb. Run that wire up thru the fenderwell thru the engine bay and back down thru the firewall inside the car. Follow that? Then hook up all your leads to your speakers and crossovers. I thought I would pick up noise thru my system when I chose this route for the driver's side, but luckily, I didn't. I hope this helped you out any.

 

Yup, those are your options. Nissan made it difficult to fish wires thru the front doors. The only way to fish wires thru the boot is to take the whole door off and remove the bolt holding the boot. But, who wants to do that! Anyway, when I installed my components, I found it easier to note the wires going to the factory speakers. Then note all the wires coming OUT the kick panels openings that are coming from each door. For the passenger's side it was easy because there wasn't much obstruction like the driver's side. Note the wire colors going to the factory speaker. Cut that same wire coming out the kick panel opening. Hook up a multimeter and check for ohms. If it reads about 4 ohms, then you know you got the right wire. (Note, if you have the factory Bose tweeters, you need to cut these, as well, because they're tied in with the door speakers. But, you don't use the Bose tweeters). Now, for the driver's side it was a little difficult. It's hard to access thru the kick panel opening because its obstructed by so many things underneath the dash. Your best option (like I did) is to drill a hole thru the door underneath the boot inside the door jamb. Run that wire up thru the fenderwell thru the engine bay and back down thru the firewall inside the car. Follow that? Then hook up all your leads to your speakers and crossovers. I thought I would pick up noise thru my system when I chose this route for the driver's side, but luckily, I didn't. I hope this helped you out any.

 

Well my car is a 95 its not not 5th gen, but I had the same problem running the wires into the car. I was about to start drilling, When I decided to grab a aluminim hanger. and cut one end and try and fish it through the hole. I got it through. It came out to the left of the ABS thing, near the kick panel. I dont know if yours has that there, it might be different. It took me a while to do it, but I managed to get it done without drilling holes.

 

All I did is put a hole through that rubber piece, ran wire through then just took electrical tape and wrapped it all up.

 

And not only did I have to run wire from the door to the car.. But because I mounted my crossover box in the glove box, I had to run them from door to car ..then back into door for the tweeter..

a good 2 hour job let me tell you.

 

i guess 4th generations are different

here's what happend...

for the rear doors, i was able to do what u guys did, but didn't have to go thru the trouble of using a coat hanger, that's cuz i was able to access the rubber from the outside -- from the front doors, if u get what i mean....

the front doors however, they use a bolt on one end of the rubber, and that end goes into the body...i really wanted this install to look as clean as possible so i struggled mightily to get that bolt off with a flat wrench (i guess that's what it's called)..well i got it out, and found out there was an actual white plastic wire harness that fit into the hole, RIGHT at the edge of the hole...so say the rectangular hole was 1" by 2" in dimensions, then teh harness itself was 1" by 2" in dimensions...so i was ****ed that i did all that work for nothign...so this is what i did..

below and behind the steeringwheel, there is a bare spot of metal for the firewall, and i drilled a hole there that would accompnay two wires fitting thru. right next to hat hole, i mounted the two crossovers for the front speakers (yes, even the right crossover)..

for the tweeters, i was able to run the wires within the interior of the car

for the components however, i had to fish two wires from the crosssovers to their respective component thru that hole that i drilled..they both went to the rear of the engine bay. one went thru the inside of the front left fender and to the door...and the other went to the front right fender and to the door -- each ultimately connecting to the components

this was no where near as clean as i thought i could have gotten it, cuz i can see orange wire all around...but...im gonna cover that up with some stock-looking insulation, and hopefully it'll look better...the way i did it, u only had to drill one hole, and that hole most of you would have to drill anyway to power your sub/amp (because of the wire needing to go to the battery)

 

see. drilling is fun.

 

I'm still against drilling as there's no need (as I said on the 5th gen forum). When mounting components, use the stock wiring to feed the door mounted mids. You can run the wiring for your tweeter easily down from the A-pillar and out beneath the dash. It's simple. The stock wiring will handle the wattage that most people will send to their door mounted mids.

 

uhhh i just wired up my max for a system and it was the easiest car i'v ever done...my brother helped me and he agreeded as well. getting the wires into the cabin was a sinch.

 

well, what generation maxima was it? and was it bose or non?

 

why not just tap into the existing speaker wire in the body just before the door, and tap out right after? if your not using an amp the stock wire should be ok.

 

97 GLE BOSE is what i ran wires on. i also did a 97 GXE a few months before.

 

You do not have to drill holes in a 5th gen to run wires into you front doors. Basically you need to put a slit in the door side of the factory wiring loom. Yes I know ther is a big white connecter that goes in the door, but if you feel the top of the connector (or the bottom) you can push on it with your finger. You can make a slit in the top(or bottom) of the factory wire loom and run cable into the door. I ran 14 guage wire with no problems

To get the other end of the wires inside the cabin, open you door all the way, stand on the outside of the car and look into the small crack between the door and the front quarter panel. You need to look in from the outside and be froward of the car door to see in. You will see a factory grommet that is approx 3/4" in diameter just sitting there all by itself. This grommet is hidden from view if you are inside your car. It is slightly forward of the factory wire loom that goes into the cabin. Just poke this grommet with a clothes hanger and use the hanger to pull the speaker wire into the kick panel area.

Check out my home page for pic's, I had a cheesy camera so the pics aren't the greatest. For some reason I can't insert the pics in post anymore.

 

Yeah, the 4th gener's were easy to work on. I had a '95. But, now owning a 5th gener., Nissan got smart and made things a little more tougher for us to work on.

 

Seems logical, but sometimes more diificult, especially with a Bose system. I found this out when I swapped my system from my '95 to my 2K. Sometimes the colors change at the plug. If I'm not mistaken, I believe there is a plug harness in between that rubber boot in the door jamb. The colors going in don't match in color going out, which makes it more difficult unless you follow the path going into the plugs. (A service manual makes it alot simplier, but I don't think they make a Hayne's manual for the 5th gener's). They make them up to 2001 models, but looking thru it, it's completely the same as the '94-'99 editions. I don't know why, 2K's+ are different than the 4th gener's.

 

sound like an easy job with a dvom, but that doesn't mean it is.