Bose LED display on 96 GLE
#1
Bose LED display on 96 GLE
I'm sure this has been addressed before and seems to be a common problem, but I would like to know how to go about fixing the sporadic working LED display on my bose stereo. The sound is amazing but it is annoying for the display to go out. Does anyone have experience with this or know how to repair it?
Appreciate it.
Appreciate it.
#2
I have the same problem. The display started fading out about a year ago and now it is usually off. There seems to be a problem with Bose head units in Nissans, Infinitys, and Acuras. There are several online repair shops that charge about $165-$190.
http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalNisMax0.htm
I recently saw that several people are selling the repair service on ebay for $90.
Other common problems include cd not working, audio fading out or stereo not turning on. I don't know enough about this but I am determined to figure it out. I have read that these units have either bad solder or leaking capacitors.
Madchef has traced these problems to the power supply board on the unit by swapping parts from two non-working units. One has the no disply problem and the other has the no cd problem. He realized that each of the units has the problem caused by the same board.
Has anyone sent their head unit in for repair? Perhaps you can take pictures of the board to help us determine what was replaced. Or if you are going to send it in for repair, photograph the boards first, then send it for repair, then photograph them again to see which capacitors were replaced.
Hope someone can shed some light on how to fix this.
If I can't figure it out I will send it in for repair and post the pictures when I get it back.
http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalNisMax0.htm
I recently saw that several people are selling the repair service on ebay for $90.
Other common problems include cd not working, audio fading out or stereo not turning on. I don't know enough about this but I am determined to figure it out. I have read that these units have either bad solder or leaking capacitors.
Madchef has traced these problems to the power supply board on the unit by swapping parts from two non-working units. One has the no disply problem and the other has the no cd problem. He realized that each of the units has the problem caused by the same board.
Has anyone sent their head unit in for repair? Perhaps you can take pictures of the board to help us determine what was replaced. Or if you are going to send it in for repair, photograph the boards first, then send it for repair, then photograph them again to see which capacitors were replaced.
Hope someone can shed some light on how to fix this.
If I can't figure it out I will send it in for repair and post the pictures when I get it back.
#3
I posted in my orig thread that the solution to the display problem is to basically resolder everything on the power board.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=267550
This fell right off when I went to resolder it, so it's highly likely that this is the display problem culprit (but it's also possible it was something else):
(part to the right of contact)
I haven't had time to resolder connections on the CD player Bose unit, so no news on that.
But my vacuum fluorescent display has been working perfectly ever since!
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=267550
This fell right off when I went to resolder it, so it's highly likely that this is the display problem culprit (but it's also possible it was something else):
(part to the right of contact)
I haven't had time to resolder connections on the CD player Bose unit, so no news on that.
But my vacuum fluorescent display has been working perfectly ever since!
#4
UPDATE
Madchef, thanks for posting the link to the other thread. I had gone back as far as I could and didn't find it. I wish the search feature was enabled.
I have followed up on Madchef's idea that the display problems were caused by a bad solder joint at location R510 on the Power Supply Board. Madchef made a great tutorial on how to take the head unit apart.
http://madchef.5u.com/maxima/bose/bose.html
I confirm that the no display problem is caused by bad solder joints at location R510. Furthermore, I have discovered that location R519 solves the problem with no audio.
When re-soldering the pads, i realized that R519 was cracked. Also, both locations (R510 and R519) have the same resistor labeled 471. It is a small flat black surface mount resistor. I soldered the good resistor to R510 and the display works, but not the sound. When I soldered the good resistor to R519, the sound works, but not the display.
I have called Clarion at 1-800-421-5080 and spoke to a parts sales representative and gave them the Head Unit model number PN-2083D, and the location of the part I need (either R510 or R519) and they promised to call me back within 24 hours. They said that resistors are not commonly in their sysyem and that they would need to research the part.
Does anyone know how to measure or determine the exact specs of the part I need. Like I said, the unit has two, so I can remove the good one and measure it if it is possible to determine what I need.
This is awesome. I'm glad I don't have to spend $165 + shipping for a couple of $.69 parts. Who knows, maybe they don't even change them, they might just re-solder them.
Madchef, thanks for posting the link to the other thread. I had gone back as far as I could and didn't find it. I wish the search feature was enabled.
I have followed up on Madchef's idea that the display problems were caused by a bad solder joint at location R510 on the Power Supply Board. Madchef made a great tutorial on how to take the head unit apart.
http://madchef.5u.com/maxima/bose/bose.html
I confirm that the no display problem is caused by bad solder joints at location R510. Furthermore, I have discovered that location R519 solves the problem with no audio.
When re-soldering the pads, i realized that R519 was cracked. Also, both locations (R510 and R519) have the same resistor labeled 471. It is a small flat black surface mount resistor. I soldered the good resistor to R510 and the display works, but not the sound. When I soldered the good resistor to R519, the sound works, but not the display.
I have called Clarion at 1-800-421-5080 and spoke to a parts sales representative and gave them the Head Unit model number PN-2083D, and the location of the part I need (either R510 or R519) and they promised to call me back within 24 hours. They said that resistors are not commonly in their sysyem and that they would need to research the part.
Does anyone know how to measure or determine the exact specs of the part I need. Like I said, the unit has two, so I can remove the good one and measure it if it is possible to determine what I need.
This is awesome. I'm glad I don't have to spend $165 + shipping for a couple of $.69 parts. Who knows, maybe they don't even change them, they might just re-solder them.
#5
Originally Posted by Vikter
Madchef, thanks for posting the link to the other thread. I had gone back as far as I could and didn't find it. I wish the search feature was enabled.
For future reference, you can find the link in the 4th Gen How-To sticky.
Originally Posted by Vikter
I confirm that the no display problem is caused by bad solder joints at location R510. Furthermore, I have discovered that location R519 solves the problem with no audio.
Originally Posted by Vikter
I soldered the good resistor to R510 and the display works, but not the sound. When I soldered the good resistor to R519, the sound works, but not the display.
Originally Posted by Vikter
Does anyone know how to measure or determine the exact specs of the part I need. Like I said, the unit has two, so I can remove the good one and measure it if it is possible to determine what I need.
That will get you in the ballpark, then you can buy a new reisitor. (for instance 470 ohms might come up as 465 or so)
Should work...unless it's not a reisitor Haven't looked into it myself, but I am pretty sure it is.
Originally Posted by Vikter
This is awesome. I'm glad I don't have to spend $165 + shipping for a couple of $.69 parts. Who knows, maybe they don't even change them, they might just re-solder them.
BTW if anybody is looking for other parts, such as a new face plate, volume control, etc, you can buy that stuff here:
https://www.pacparts.com/scripts/def...FTOKEN=4961474
#6
I just received the call from Clarion regarding the type of resistor in location R510 and R519. They said they don't carry it, but it can be purchased locally. They gave me the following specs. 470 ohm at 1/2 watt
I dashed down to RadioShack and bought a pack of 5 for $.99
Soldered it, installed it and presto! My Bose display works perfectly! I took a few pictures of the the installation. I don't have hosting, but I can email it to anyone who is interested.
The resistor from Radioshack is much bigger than the original resistor, but there is plenty of place on the board, so it's not too big of a deal.
I'm off to post on google groups, so that others can find this thread. Thanks to everyone for keeping this forum thriving and a special thanks to you Madchef for finding the mysterious culprit that keeps our bose displays off.
Vikter
I dashed down to RadioShack and bought a pack of 5 for $.99
Soldered it, installed it and presto! My Bose display works perfectly! I took a few pictures of the the installation. I don't have hosting, but I can email it to anyone who is interested.
The resistor from Radioshack is much bigger than the original resistor, but there is plenty of place on the board, so it's not too big of a deal.
I'm off to post on google groups, so that others can find this thread. Thanks to everyone for keeping this forum thriving and a special thanks to you Madchef for finding the mysterious culprit that keeps our bose displays off.
Vikter
#7
Nice, glad to hear it worked! Good idea about posting info on google groups.
So yeah I totally forgot.... you know the 471 printed on the resistor? It means 47 + 1 zero (last digit is number of zeroes...aka 47 x 10^1) so 470 ohms....sorry man I should have said that before!
Take a look around the .org, you can find a lot of good info here
So yeah I totally forgot.... you know the 471 printed on the resistor? It means 47 + 1 zero (last digit is number of zeroes...aka 47 x 10^1) so 470 ohms....sorry man I should have said that before!
Take a look around the .org, you can find a lot of good info here
#8
Guys, I am so grateful of finding this thread since I found the CD err problem in my infiniti I30 (96). Unfortunately, I am not as good as you guys on fixing electrical parts. So could you tell me which one is the power board and do I have to pull off the stereo unit from dash? Thanks a lot.
#9
I took out my Clarion PN-2083D stereo from my Nissan 1996 Maxima SE.
It has a problem where it powers on and off especially when it hits a bump.
I took the stereo out and re-soldered the two resistors on the power supply board per madchefs instructions. Put the stereo back in and still the same problem. So I jiggled the connectors in the back and presto, the problem was in the connectors. Not sure at this point if it is on the white male connectors from the car cable or at the power supply board black female connectors.
Not sure where to buy a power supply board or even the white connectors
Any help guys ?
Thanks y'all. Props to madchef for taking time out to put in detailed instructions.
It has a problem where it powers on and off especially when it hits a bump.
I took the stereo out and re-soldered the two resistors on the power supply board per madchefs instructions. Put the stereo back in and still the same problem. So I jiggled the connectors in the back and presto, the problem was in the connectors. Not sure at this point if it is on the white male connectors from the car cable or at the power supply board black female connectors.
Not sure where to buy a power supply board or even the white connectors
Any help guys ?
Thanks y'all. Props to madchef for taking time out to put in detailed instructions.
#10
Originally Posted by jimmy9252
I took out my Clarion PN-2083D stereo from my Nissan 1996 Maxima SE.
It has a problem where it powers on and off especially when it hits a bump.
I took the stereo out and re-soldered the two resistors on the power supply board per madchefs instructions. Put the stereo back in and still the same problem. So I jiggled the connectors in the back and presto, the problem was in the connectors. Not sure at this point if it is on the white male connectors from the car cable or at the power supply board black female connectors.
Not sure where to buy a power supply board or even the white connectors
Any help guys ?
Thanks y'all. Props to madchef for taking time out to put in detailed instructions.
It has a problem where it powers on and off especially when it hits a bump.
I took the stereo out and re-soldered the two resistors on the power supply board per madchefs instructions. Put the stereo back in and still the same problem. So I jiggled the connectors in the back and presto, the problem was in the connectors. Not sure at this point if it is on the white male connectors from the car cable or at the power supply board black female connectors.
Not sure where to buy a power supply board or even the white connectors
Any help guys ?
Thanks y'all. Props to madchef for taking time out to put in detailed instructions.
#11
I have the display problem, and my display actually works SOMETIMES, occasionally it will be dim, other times not work at all, and other times it works just fine! Anyway, I checked the two resistors, and the ohms are correct (470), and visually they look ok (not cracked, etc.)... So, what do you think I should try next?
#13
I have a pn-2083d in my 95 Maxima that just crapped out. CD player wont take a CD and the tape deck no longer works, only the radio...and the screen goes out frequently. Just found this post after hunting online forever. I am going to try to replace the 2 resistors you guys listed on here years ago and see if it fixes it and post my results. I am surprised that no one has posted about this fix in years. Seems like such a cheap fix.
Last edited by guinnesshead; 03-24-2010 at 01:06 PM.
#14
Well I replaced the 2 resistors and my unit is still shot. I may have a bigger issue than just the cd err message because the unit will not load the cd when i put it in the slot. The display is working all the time now but I still only have radio....
Not sure if anyone else out there has a tip to give me on fixing the cd player. If not I may just send it to someone to repair/replace it or pick up a newer bose model on ebay.
Not sure if anyone else out there has a tip to give me on fixing the cd player. If not I may just send it to someone to repair/replace it or pick up a newer bose model on ebay.
Last edited by guinnesshead; 03-24-2010 at 01:10 PM.
#15
Look into this unit:
http://www.amazon.com/Boss-865DBI-Re.../dp/B001QXDSPE
I settled on this after a brief search and have been very satisfied especially considering how much it cost. Bluetooth, Aux, USB input, SD Card, IPod Doc, 5V pre-outs, all for around $170.00.
All I needed was the antenna adapter and the Metra-7551 harness.
http://www.amazon.com/Boss-865DBI-Re.../dp/B001QXDSPE
I settled on this after a brief search and have been very satisfied especially considering how much it cost. Bluetooth, Aux, USB input, SD Card, IPod Doc, 5V pre-outs, all for around $170.00.
All I needed was the antenna adapter and the Metra-7551 harness.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AaronL
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
15
08-08-2020 10:31 AM
trsandrew
Group Deals / Sponsors Forum
2
10-25-2015 02:47 PM