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Any 4th gens here with 15" sub (S) in the trunk?

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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 09:19 PM
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Any 4th gens here with 15" sub (S) in the trunk?

As the subject states, anyone here with 15" sub(s) in the trunk. I am wondering whether or not there is enough clearance for a 15" sub plus the height of the baffle, such that the box can still be easily removed. I do not want to do an angled baffle, because I have a theory of 90 degree baffles giving the best response in a trunk setup. I am thinking of going with either a RE XXX 15" or AA Brahma 15".
Old Mar 28, 2004 | 09:25 PM
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Just get 2 12's

15's are sloppy and the box has to be huge
Old Mar 28, 2004 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Conrad283
Just get 2 12's

15's are sloppy and the box has to be huge
Sorry but you have fallen victim to misconception. BTW I already have 2 12" Kicker 12L5's.
Old Mar 29, 2004 | 04:39 AM
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Either of those are great subs....go for it!
Most people in this forum unfortunatly should spend
more time in "real" audio forums
Old Mar 29, 2004 | 07:56 AM
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I have a 15 in my trunk, 3.8ft^3 tuned to 22.57hz, there is enough clearence for it.
Old Mar 29, 2004 | 08:37 PM
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pics would be nice
Old Mar 30, 2004 | 09:05 AM
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Great choice in subs kingrukus, I wish I could afford anyone of those. Previously I was thinking about going with a 15" tempest myself, until I saw peoples setups in CAF. It looks like i'm gonna have no trunk space left. I didn't realize how big a 4ft^3 box was.
Old Mar 30, 2004 | 08:27 PM
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the XXX is nice but definately go with the brahma. nothing can beat that beast of a sub man.
Old Mar 30, 2004 | 09:55 PM
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Old Mar 31, 2004 | 10:23 AM
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ORION H2 15.2 3ft^3 ported tuned to 30.
Old Mar 31, 2004 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by NEW2DAGAME
ORION H2 15.2 3ft^3 ported tuned to 30.
I need to see pics please!
Old Apr 2, 2004 | 03:55 PM
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I think hitmanse has a 15 inch brahma in his trunk. I should have a pic of a 15 inch Tumult that uses the same basket as brahma, within about 7-10 days. Same basic box as mine should work for B15. Just need the box a bit wider to accomadate the higher Qts of the B15.

You can not use a 90 degree baffle and mount the sub on the side effectively. Not enough wood to hold the sub firmly. The tallest box that will easilly fit in and out of the 4th gen is 15.5 inches, same as the frame of the B15, and same as the height of the hole through the rear seat.
Old Apr 2, 2004 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jmax
I think hitmanse has a 15 inch brahma in his trunk. I should have a pic of a 15 inch Tumult that uses the same basket as brahma, within about 7-10 days. Same basic box as mine should work for B15. Just need the box a bit wider to accomadate the higher Qts of the B15.

You can not use a 90 degree baffle and mount the sub on the side effectively. Not enough wood to hold the sub firmly. The tallest box that will easilly fit in and out of the 4th gen is 15.5 inches, same as the frame of the B15, and same as the height of the hole through the rear seat.

Thanks for the info. Let me get this straight, the reason why I cannot mount it perfectly vertical is because there is simply not enough height to accomodate it? Shoots, my worst fears have been confirmed. I was even thinking of going with a lower end RE (RE HC 15") to get powered off my of RE35.1.

BTW is the Tumult a clone of the Brahma as well?

jmax, what are your thoughts on my theory of a verticle mounted sub being able to produce higher SPL #'s vs one that is not?
Old Apr 3, 2004 | 04:09 AM
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The Tumult is the Adire home audio sub with XBL^2. Basically a 2nd generation XBL^2 sub, lower fs, lower Qts, therefore smaller box and slower roll-off. >>Edit - that should read as the lower fs provides a lower point at which roll off begins. Roll off rate is still dependent on box design and any filtering networks.>>End edit

There is no benefit to mounting it parallel to the rear of the car. The sub bass is non-directional and the only reflection off the a*s of the car will be distortion / upper harmonics.

There is enough height but it will be very tight. Ask Hitmanse if he has a pick of his ported B15. The total height of the trunk under the rear deck is about 17 inches. You need at least 1.5 inches clearance to get it in under the hole through the rear seat and for the steel bars that raise and lower the trunk. I tried building a box the full 17 inches in height and it couldn't fit through the trunk opening. But 15.5 inches can slide in through the rear seat.
Old Apr 3, 2004 | 07:53 PM
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Little late but atleast I caught this thread

Yeah I got the B15 in there, the box is friggin huge & yeah I have pics, ill get to that. External dimensions of the box are 40" wide, 16" tall and 14" depth. Thats about as large a box you could possibly fit into the trunk of a 5th gen I did find a few flaws, like not enough port area, ect... but that can & will be corrected. If you plan on going ported, your not going to have much trunk left.

One thing you can do is use cardboard and build a replica of the box, then make sure you can get it to fit in your trunk. As funny as it would be to take your tine building a box and not being able to get it in your trunk, obviously that would suck so take your time and do it right.

One thing im planning on changing with my setup is the port area, its only at 22". Its fine for the time being considering im running only 400rms for now but I spoke to Adire and was told 35" would be more then enough for upto 1Kw. Im going to make the port 2.5" wide and 14.5" tall, depending on tuning frequency im not sure how long im going to run it but im probably going to keep it in the 28hz tuning area and bump the power upto 800-1200/rms. It should more then make up for any loss in airspace.
I have two options though, I can either lose some airspace in the box and drop it down to about 2.8-2.9ft^3 and keep it the same size, or I can run the port about 8-10" inside the box and wrap it around the front of the box and end it at the sub.

Another issue jmax mentioned, this thing is heavy. Its a good 40lbs+ and thats another issue I need to address. You can actually mount the sub with a 90 degree baffle but your going to have to support the basket of the sub. Either that of you could use two 3/4" baffles Im using only a single 3/4" for now but I know I should have used more. Needless to say I still got a few small kinks to work out but all in all its working just fine.

As far as the way the sub is facing, it is non-directional. You could mount it at an angle and leave it be. I doubt you'd notice any difference. You would however notice the difference if you front fired it.

Dont overestimate you power needs, you dont need much power to make a Brahma 15 loud. I have only 400 going to it, (amps only at 4ohms, but I can drop it to 1ohm to push it to 1200) if you plan on going sealed, 2.75ft^3 with about 1500rms should push the sub near its limit.

Oh and be4 I 4get, here are the pics.
http://gallery.azmaximas.org/view_al...bumName=system
Old Apr 3, 2004 | 11:46 PM
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Hitman, before you go with a larger and much longer port try using a 3/4 inch roundover bit on the end of the port that you have now. To keep the same tuning frequency you will need to extend the port in the box about an inch. Or you could simply build a little rectangular baffle extension that just sits in front of the port. Use about 1 to 1.5 inch thick wood and cut the port hole in it the same and then go around the opening with the roundover bit. That gives you the extra length and the wider port opening. If you got the 4.5 inch by 5 inch port opening from me that was intended to have the ends flared.

kingrukus, the RE subs are not "clones" of the Brahma. They simply use the same motor "technology" and the same build house to put the speaker together. Adire doesn't have the square footage to build a large quantity of speakers in house. I beleive they do prototypes and other electronics on site as well as some other speaker design and testing.
Old Apr 4, 2004 | 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jmax
Hitman, before you go with a larger and much longer port try using a 3/4 inch roundover bit on the end of the port that you have now. To keep the same tuning frequency you will need to extend the port in the box about an inch. Or you could simply build a little rectangular baffle extension that just sits in front of the port. Use about 1 to 1.5 inch thick wood and cut the port hole in it the same and then go around the opening with the roundover bit. That gives you the extra length and the wider port opening. If you got the 4.5 inch by 5 inch port opening from me that was intended to have the ends flared.
Will that actually give it the same effect of having a larger port from start to finish? I know it will give more port area at the exit but the rest of it is still going to be 2.75" x 8" If I flare it with a .75" rollover it would pretty much make the port are about the same as the 4.5" x5" with the flared end, about 30.5"

The port speed would still be rather high right? As far as the "huffing" noise goes that a slot port would have, I dont hear any of that. 22" of port are is still too small IMO.

I still havnt decided yet The reason I was going to go with a 2.5x 14.5 is so I can use the wall of the box as a part of the port. Run only about 8-10" inside and the rest on the outside. I dont have much room left in my trunk as you can see, and I cant even use whats left of it so

As one point I was even thinking about getting anoter b15 and using my entire trunk as a box, and front fire both through the rear seat...then I thought to myself, do I really need to go above to and above150db... I think ill keep my hearing.

Here is what I what I got right now:
Pic 1

Here is what I was thinking of going with to save space inside the box but get more port are:
Pic 2

...and here is what ill get if I keep the box the same, but with more port area:
Pic 3

Stupid ported boxes require so much math, lol.
Old Apr 9, 2004 | 12:05 AM
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i have 2 15's in my 4th gen's trunk within a 12 ft^3 box. so anything is possible if you want it to be in there.
Old Apr 9, 2004 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by btmax96
i have 2 15's in my 4th gen's trunk within a 12 ft^3 box. so anything is possible if you want it to be in there.
Does your rear sag a lot?
Old Apr 10, 2004 | 01:23 AM
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ha ha ha
yes a he!! of a lot. i dont hink it will be as bad after i order my lowering springs
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 02:05 PM
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Just a thought, you might want to consider getting a JL audio W7 13". They kill most of the 15's I've ever heard. I had 3 JL audio 12" W6's & 1 W7 blew them away. And yes I had more then enough power to push the 3 W6's...
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 07:42 PM
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It all depends on your idea of "blow them away". 13W7 is a nice SQ driver with good SPL to match, but for raw output I would end up going with an RE XXX.
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 09:15 PM
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ugh oh. lets not start a w7vs.xxx flame war here. im sure you would be pleased with an xx,w7, or brahma. or the new elemental designs sub coming out.
Old Apr 11, 2004 | 11:25 PM
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Blew my 12w6's away meaning the W7 13" was just as loud as the 12's & only needed to be 1 speaker instead of 3 to produce equal if not more bass... I'm not trying to debate brands, people have there prefrences. Besides I know it's more about speaker position then speaker price!!!
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by HitManSE
Will that actually give it the same effect of having a larger port from start to finish? I know it will give more port area at the exit but the rest of it is still going to be 2.75" x 8" If I flare it with a .75" rollover it would pretty much make the port are about the same as the 4.5" x5" with the flared end, about 30.5"

The port speed would still be rather high right? As far as the "huffing" noise goes that a slot port would have, I dont hear any of that. 22" of port are is still too small IMO.

Pic 1

Here is what I was thinking of going with to save space inside the box but get more port are:
Pic 2

...and here is what ill get if I keep the box the same, but with more port area:
Pic 3

Stupid ported boxes require so much math, lol.

Sorry, never saw this post with all the others after it. With the flare you get the reduced air speed at the exit that you would have from the port being significantly larger. The larger the flare the better. Also if you can flare the inside end of the port it helps since noise on that end is heard outside the box. There was a good article in AudioXpress several months back and the reduction in port noise was significant. They only tested the flared port kits but results should be similar. You do need to increase the port length by a couple inches to keep the same tuning frequency. It's similar to the difference between pushing a large amound of water through a garden hose or a fire hose. Or a 1 inch exhaust pipe compared to a 2 inch pipe. Fluid pressure and velocity are inversely proportional, basic fluid dynamics.
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