Hey guys. I wanna give the Bose in my '91 SE a little more *****. I listen to a lot of clubbing music(Oakie, Ian M, Lisa Lashes), and the kick is murder on my speakers. Can you guys recommend an amp/speaker system for my tastes? I'M LOOKING FOR CLARITY (NO DISTORTION OR BUZZ), NOT ABSOLUTE POWER. I like it loud, but not THAT loud (don't need a sub). I just HATE when the speakers buzz!!!

Feel free to contact me directly with your advice. Thanks!!

din@lawngnome.org

 

and i have rockford and mb quartz stuff.... i would recommend mb quartz components with a rockford amp and some good subs... that would sound bada**

 

Since the operative word is clean.......

amp: a/d/s PH 640.2
Components: a/d/s 336i


By the way, I do listen to house in its various forms (from old school to progressive).

 

If its just sound quality/clarity you want then you should just consider getting a new headunit or an amp with just your stock speakers. You'd be surprised at how good they can sound with more power. That buzzing you get when the base hits just means that your speakers aren't getting enough power, and the stock headunit that comes with the max is really low wattage. New headunit with good wattage would probably be the easier way to go since there would be a lot less wiring to do than setting up a 4 channel amp.

 

DJBOO....The idea of adding more power can help. Also part of that buzzing could be your door panels vibrating. Now if your looking for better speakers without a sub.. I used BostonAcoustic PRO's... They can handle the likes of Chicago hardhouse's tramatizing midbass. As well as the likes of Judge Jules and your hard trance. Oakie... NO PROB!! If you go with the PRO's your gonna need juice from an amp. But I promise you they will get the job done. MB Quart is another cheaper alternative. They produce good sound as well...

 

Say what? Cheaper? Maybe the low end stuff, but then again low end Boston's sound like crap too. Q series components cost a grip. They aren't any Focal utopia's but they still cost $$.

 

Xtantmaxima.... I like your ride. Nice install... Bet that cost a pretty peny )

 

Hmm... I don't see how you think you're gonna enjoy house & techno without a sub. Modern house & techno is just loaded with low frequencies that small drivers can't reproduce.

 

so what kind of sub would you recomend me to add to my stock bose system in my 2000? i want to add a good sub but i want it to hit hard, crisp and clean... i dont want it to have that buzz... Is bandpass good? how bout this one

is that good? its 3 10" speakers...

thats the info about it:
Model VB3P10
TRIPLE 10"
800 watts continuous power • 1600 watts maximum power • Plexi view window • Gold plated terminals • High density MDF • Heavy duty industrial carpet finish • 4-Ohm • Dimensions 12-3/4 Inch (h) x 18 Inch (d) x 35 Inch (w) The bandpass enclosure woofers have double stacked strontium magnets with dual 6 Ohm, 3 Inch Kapton voice coils wired in series to a single 4 Ohm terminal making this one a monster. Depending on the amplifier, these enclosures may also be wires to 1 Ohm. Plexi front & top view window and interior neon lighting round out the perfection of these bandpass enclosures. The center woofer is inverted creating a push pull effect which equals massive amounts of clean rich hard hitting BASS!


1VIS-VB3P10 original = $399.95 our price = $279.99

is that a good price for it?

what kind of amp would you recomend for that box? i really like how it looks too... lemme know if its ok for what i want... i just want to add it to my stock bose system... thanks

 

the shipping will be like $22 for that to me...
i attached the picture of it because for some reason its not loading...

 

I'm not a fan of bandpass enclosures. Unless you are planning on entering SPL contests, all you need is one 10 or 12 with a decent amount of power.

 

im not entering any contests... i just like how taht one looked and it seems that it has good power... how bout quality wise is that good? can i get something better that is cheaper but doesnt look as nice? i am basically listening to trance and rap... i listen to other music too but this is the music i need the bass for...

basically i just really like the way it looks... i have no clue in quality and stuff like that in this stuff...

 

I've never heard of Visonik before. I've seen hundreds of companies come and go in the car audio arena; I have a hard time recommending anything but the well-known, well-seasoned brands that have been around for at least 10 years. Like I said, get a 10 or a 12 in a sealed enclosure. Less weight, less money, less space, plenty of bass. See if there are any competitions in your area this summer. Go and listen to a lot of systems and see what you think you'll need.

 

ok... lets say i choose this as what i want...
what kind of amp do i get? and does the amp matter if i have a sealed or a bandpass?

what would u recomend as an amp for me to power this? or any other sub

 

The amp doesn't care about the enclosure type. The amp selection has to be based on each sub. Different subs create different issues as far as wattage, load stability, efficiency, etc. For that Visonik enclosure, you should aim for an amp that puts out 400-500 watts into a 4-ohm load. There are quite a few of those.

 

i see they have 2 channel 4 channel.. what do i need? can you maybe gimme an example of a good amp that i could use and then i will be able to compare specs?

 

and whats the difference between stereo stability and bridged stablility?

am i looking for 4 ohm stereo stability or 4 ohm bridged stability?



thanks soo much for helping me...

 

If you get a two-channel amp, you'll need one that is 2-ohm stable (all amps are these days). Then bridge it mono to drive the subs. Or you could get a monoblock amp. A Class D monoblock would be a good idea when getting high wattage, because it will be less strain on the charging system of the car. Monoblock examples: JL Audio 500/1, DEI 1100d. Two-channel examples: Alpine MRV-1507, PPI PCX-2200, Kenwood KAC-929, Kicker IX1302, Soundstream Rubicon 502, Zapco 750.

 

k thanks a lot

then what is a crossover and do i need it?

what does it do?

so do you recomend monoblock? which would be easier for me to install? how do you "bridge" an amp?

 

A crossover lets you adjust which frequencies can go to the speaker. Pretty much all amps these days have xovers built-in. Some are better than others. If you get a two-channel amp, the manual will tell you how to bridge it. It usually involves wiring the subs to the negative of one channel and the positive of the other. Like I said before, the Class D monoblocks are more efficient than Class AB stereo amps, so the Class Ds are better for your alternator and battery. You'll have to get a monoblock that has high output into 4 ohms, though; most of them are optimized for 1- or 2-ohm loads.

 

wow thanks a lot for all the infoo
i really really apreciate it!!

 

Come to think of it, if you can open the enclosure and get to the wiring going to the subs, you could parallel all of the voice coils for a 1-ohm load and then use a mono amp that's 1-ohm stable. That would give you some more possibilities.

 

hmmmm sounds interesting... now what does it mean

 

ok another question.... what is a cap/capacitator/farad cap?

what does it do and do i need it?

thanks

danny

 

Capacitors are used for various tasks in car audio. Obviously, there are capacitors inside of the components. Then you can use capacitors to high-pass speakers, to block low frequencies from getting to them. The different µfarad ratings create different cutoff points. Then there are the big caps that are used for powering amps. They are typically 500,000 µfarads - 1 farad (there's one that's 5 farads and one that is 25 farads). These are wired inline with the amp's power cable and provide quick bursts of power to the amp, such as when the bass hits really hard (low frequencies require more power than high frequencies). The cap can supply power to the amp much quicker than the alternator can, so it helps the amp to maintain a steady input power. Some details: You don't need a cap on amps that have a regulated power supply; there will be no benefit. The rule of thumb is 1 farad for every 1000 watts, and you really need them on only the sub amp, if you have a separate one. Do you really need one? You'll have to figure that out after you install all of your stuff and see what the demand of the system is on the car's charging system. I don't need one, so you might not either. The Maxima has a pretty strong alternator (at least the GLE does).

 

thanks again for all the help! so basically i will install what i want and then i will see if i need it or not... cool