Sup fellas

Looking for the same ole "wanna hook up amp/sub to Bose" blah, blah, blah....Currently have a 2k w/ Bose and retreived the wiring diagrams from the Stickys (nice)

I know most people here recommend buying a PAC-OEM2 and hooking up to the head unit. But I would like to tap into directly the trunk, right before the factory amp. I have found a converter that alters a speaker level signal into an RCA output. I would also like to take my remote lead of the factory wiring in the trunk as well.

But, reading thru a few threads, people mention problems from doing it this way. But I haven't found exact problems. So what kind of problems should I expect from this kind of install? And maybe the reasons behind these problems, maybe due to Bose running 1 ohm? Thanks in advance for any information on this type of install. Thanks guys

 

C'mon, somebody has got to have their system hooked up this way

If not, I'll just do it and let you guys know how it goes. Hooking up my old system, Vega Vega 12" in a sealed/ported box and Power Acoustik(yeah, I know, cheap at the time) 800 watt hammer amp. Had this setup in my old bimmer and the one 12" hit way harder than a few pairs of 10"s that I've gone thru...Peace_

 

I did it this way when I had my XTant 1001D and 3 12W6 JL Audio subs and had no problems. But I didn't need a converter either b/c the amp did it...said the guy at HiFi.

 

No kidding, eh>? Yeah, I was originally going to tap into before the Amp, but after reading around, some guy said it didnt provide enough signal before the amp and tapped it after the amp. Hmmm......good stuff. Thanks

 

you can use line level converter that takes the signal from the rear speakers and runs them to your amp providing a signal for you sub.

 

In a 4th gen, yes you can. It's still not the best setup, but it does work.

But in a 5th gen, that's probably the 2nd worst thing you can do, since it is after the Bose amp, which also includes the Bose EQ and Crossover units.

How you tap the signal level is up to you. The best (and recommended) way is to use the PAC kit. If you can't afford the $59.95 price tag from http://www.affsave.com/pac5.htm (the AOEM-NIS2 kit works for 1995-2003 models, even though it only says 1995-1999), then you can cheap-out using a $20 module instead. You'll get a lesser quality signal using the $20 module, but it's also $40 cheaper... and for those who aren't audiophiles, they probably wouldn't notice the difference anyway.

As for using the $20 convertor, you won't get as "loud" of a line-level signal that you would with the PAC kit, so you'll have to increase the gain on your amp to compensate. Again, for those who aren't audiophiles, you won't really care.

But, for those who are audiophiles, you'll understand this next part:

For a system to sound "clean", it must meet several requirements. Some of those requirements are a (1) low noise-floor, (2) high audio ceiling, (3) wide dynamic range, (4) equally volumized ranges, and (5) direction-oriented sound.

With the PAC kit, you're still dealing with a crappy source signal, which is the HU. The HU doesn't put out numbers 2, 3, or 5. When you use the $20 convertor, you also are cutting out number 1. Number 5 is mostly based upon speaker placement, EQ, and crossover settings.

So, if you are not an audiophile, you can go with the cheap $20 convertor. Tap the lines going into the Bose amp from the HU and convert them to RCA. Turn up the gain on the amp and enjoy a moderate sound.

But if you can afford to spend the extra $40 for the PAC kit, I would definitely recommend it.

And to validate my comments for this post, I have a degree in Audio Engineering, as well as I have tested both methods on the same system in my own car (before replacing the Bose altogether).

 

the man sure seems to know his stuff...

 

If you are tapping Before the amp...then a convertor isnt needed. As the lines that you are going into are only a signal. A high-lo convertor takes a high (powered) and converts to low (Non-powered). Before the amp is already a low so just tap in with a set of RCAs and your done.

--Don

 

hmm...i'm just sayin this because my buddy who got an '05 Altima SE-R added an aftermarket sub to his bose system with line level converter and hasn't had any problems with it. How would you tap in RCAs? i thought it wasn't good to splice RCAs.

 

who told you that?

 

Someone had misinformed you. To splice them in is just like splicing any other wire.Use the center for positive, the shielding for negative. All you are doing in converting a signal line to a RCA signal.....

--Don

 

Thanks for all the reply's guys, they really help.

After giving it some thought, and reading your recommendation, it seems like the PAC route is the way to go. However, it seems a lot less complicated to splice RCA's than removing the head unit. If anybody has any info on removing the head unit on a 5th gen, much thanks.

Just trying to do this myself. Peace_

 

http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalNisMax0.htm

That should help you remove the radio. The rest is pretty apparent when you get the PAC kit.

 

That's awesome! Thanks!