Standing wave treatment question
04-19-2001, 02:08 PM
#1
Disco Biscuit
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,791
I have just ordered 2 rolls of RAAMmat and will be doing my Maxima in a couple weeks. One thing I am thinking about doing to help eliminate standing waves is to apply a couple layers of mat to the inside of the door, and then apply a layer of egg crate acoustic foam onto that, then another layer or two of mat to the outside of the door to seal it up. My question is this, has anyone else used acoustic foam in treatment? Is there a problem with water absorbtion? Does it even make a difference? Thanks for everyone's replys.
Jonathan
Jonathan
04-19-2001, 08:20 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 778
Originally posted by Whitemax
I have just ordered 2 rolls of RAAMmat and will be doing my Maxima in a couple weeks. One thing I am thinking about doing to help eliminate standing waves is to apply a couple layers of mat to the inside of the door, and then apply a layer of egg crate acoustic foam onto that, then another layer or two of mat to the outside of the door to seal it up. My question is this, has anyone else used acoustic foam in treatment? Is there a problem with water absorbtion? Does it even make a difference? Thanks for everyone's replys.
Jonathan
I have just ordered 2 rolls of RAAMmat and will be doing my Maxima in a couple weeks. One thing I am thinking about doing to help eliminate standing waves is to apply a couple layers of mat to the inside of the door, and then apply a layer of egg crate acoustic foam onto that, then another layer or two of mat to the outside of the door to seal it up. My question is this, has anyone else used acoustic foam in treatment? Is there a problem with water absorbtion? Does it even make a difference? Thanks for everyone's replys.
Jonathan
04-19-2001, 10:27 PM
#3
Yes, I've done it in my doors and it made a HUGE difference.
I used a flat sheet of 3/4" open-cell foam, but the egg-crate stuff is the same thing with different texture.
What I did was put a layer of dynamat on the door skin (2 right behind the speaker), then glued the foam on top of that. then on top of the inner door skin (that the panel attaches to) I added another layer of dynamat, sealing all the unnecessary small holes.
It made a huge difference. each door is 10-15lb heavier, and shuts with a nice "THUNK", but it just makes the car feel more solid. the 4th gens I've driven all sounded like tin cans when you shut the door. it won't when you're done with this! have fun!
I used a flat sheet of 3/4" open-cell foam, but the egg-crate stuff is the same thing with different texture.
What I did was put a layer of dynamat on the door skin (2 right behind the speaker), then glued the foam on top of that. then on top of the inner door skin (that the panel attaches to) I added another layer of dynamat, sealing all the unnecessary small holes.
It made a huge difference. each door is 10-15lb heavier, and shuts with a nice "THUNK", but it just makes the car feel more solid. the 4th gens I've driven all sounded like tin cans when you shut the door. it won't when you're done with this! have fun!
04-23-2001, 10:09 PM
#5
i glued some heat shield on the outermost doorpanel(carpet padding purchased from jcwhitney) and since some moisture was retained (my car is usually parked outside on the street) the heat shield fell off after a couple of weeks. I would not recommend doing what i did. I'm sure there is a better way to do it. Next week i'm putting a layer of carpet padding between the door and the doorpanel to stop that road noise. I will also seal the door off with a layer of dynamat-like material
04-24-2001, 08:11 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
I used a mattress pad from Wal-Mart. Less than $10 to fill all four doors and enough left over to fill many crevises in the trunk. Like others I have a couple layers - Cascade VB2DHD - sorry no Dynamat with the eggcrate filling the gap between the outerskin and the window rails. It is not even necessary to use adhesive on the lower part of the panel because the steel door beam will hold it in place if cut properly, i think 12 to 12 3/4 inches tall. Moisture retention is not a problem. It can still drain out the normal holes, just takes a little longer. The moisture hasn't affected the foam yet and this is the second car in which I have used this treatment. It turns the door into a medium sized aperiodicly damped enclosure.
04-25-2001, 08:20 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
What would you like to see? There isn't much but a a couple rolls of damping material, two cans of cascade spray dampner and the foam mattress pad in each door. Oh yah, and two 6 1/2 drivers. But I am still waiting to seal the door until I can replace the 6 1/2's with 8's. That should tighten it another margin and give me some power handling clearance.
04-26-2001, 10:14 PM
#11
Originally posted by jmax
Either post your email address or email it to me. I'll try to send some pics in a few days. If there is a delay it's because I don't have any days off scheduled this week.
Either post your email address or email it to me. I'll try to send some pics in a few days. If there is a delay it's because I don't have any days off scheduled this week.
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