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how to read a frequency response

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Old 01-21-2005, 12:37 PM
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how to read a frequency response

Is it the higher it is ther better? Like what is better between 45hz -22khz and 30 hz -30Khz?
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Old 01-21-2005, 12:38 PM
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for what a speaker? below 80hz is what people usually use for car audio subs. any higher than that is used for mids and highs.
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Old 01-21-2005, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by OutMaxxed
Is it the higher it is ther better? Like what is better between 45hz -22khz and 30 hz -30Khz?
That's specs for a HU or amp, right? 30 Hz - 30 KHz would be better.
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Old 01-21-2005, 02:21 PM
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sorry about that i was talking about coaxil speakers
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Old 01-21-2005, 02:49 PM
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send a link. either way the human ear cant really hear past 20khz and below 20hz.
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Old 01-22-2005, 09:32 AM
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Like this..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...744809105&rd=1
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...745654435&rd=1.
Is it like the bigger the range is between the speakers the better it is ?
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Old 01-22-2005, 02:35 PM
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either set is perfectly fine.
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Old 01-22-2005, 05:00 PM
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can't really trust those kind of specs really..........
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Old 01-22-2005, 06:36 PM
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Best bet is to get components. All the highs are below you and you won't hear most of it.
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Old 01-22-2005, 08:57 PM
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i thought about getting tweeters seperatly .. woulndt that be cheaper ?
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Old 01-23-2005, 08:21 AM
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^^ you can custom make your components with a woofer and a separate tweeter with a xover matched for it. i'd however just go components especially if you're a newb (which i still am) because they're just matched better for each other.
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:18 AM
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i hear that the components are really strong speakers and that people even take their rear speakers out. Can i hook up a component set on my front and coaxil's in the rear with a 4 channel amp? Would the amp have to have a higher wattage for each channel? I dont want the high wattage to be fine with the components and blow out the coaxils ( would that happen?) Thanks
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:29 AM
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yeah, you should concentrate on front speakers. the rears are mainly for...well...rear fill.
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Old 01-23-2005, 12:00 PM
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hrmm... that why i thought about going with coaxials and then buying seperate tweeters
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:03 PM
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^^ just get components up front, coax in back, if you're using a 4ch set the gains lower for the coax. mine are MUCH lower in teh back, probably all the way down if i remember correctly. can hardly tell they're on. you can tell when theyre off but when youre sitting back there you can barely here it, just added ambiance
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:20 PM
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i dont know, but the tweeters on my coaxials get plenty loud even for being so low to the floor. i bet they could probably make my ears bleed if i wanted to, so i dont see no point of having seperate tweeters. coaxials do the job, but yes components are better.
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:23 PM
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loud and sound good are completely different things
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Old 01-24-2005, 08:47 AM
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so you mean to tell me a good sounding system cant get loud?
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Old 01-24-2005, 09:56 AM
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no. he means you might be hearing distortion which can be loud but in reality a system that is high in distortion is bad for the ears when compared to a loud system with very low distortion. i mean playing loud loud music is bad but from what ive heard (no pun intended), distortion is bad for the ears when compared to a clean signal.
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Old 01-24-2005, 10:09 AM
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WTF?!
good soundingn systems CAN be loud.. in fact they should be able to. Dynamics are a requirement- which takes plenty of power and a speaker able to handle the power.

OTOH, loud systems don't always sound good. it's one thing to throw in some cheapo speakers in a horrible install and crank them up.. it's another thing to have good parts in a good install and crank them up to the same level.


Back to the point.....

Either of the speakers shown above are good speakers. You'll be happy with either of them if you're shopping for a $100 set of speakers. don't worry about components or coaxes.. most people can't tell the difference if they're installed properly.

the overall frequency response on them is just one indication of what to look for. as long as they play below about 60hz for a front speaker set, you'll be fine. If you want low bass, you know you'll need a sub anyway, so don't worry about response below about 60hz.. It *IS* a good indicator of the magnet size and speaker's capabilities, but don't rely on it as the one and only aspect.
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Old 01-24-2005, 03:11 PM
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in fact a good sounding system "sounds" louder to the ear but not to the mic. a lotta jl's and what not with low power "sound" louder than say a couple mtx's or kicker's despite what the mic might say because of the fidelity of the sound. i know we're talkin bout speakers but just an example.
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Old 01-24-2005, 06:23 PM
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i think ive decided with components... another question: should the amp wattage be higher or lower than the speaker wattage. (Like the max amount) I.E.- i saw a set of components that saw they have an rms of 175, so the total for the set would be 350. Then i found an amp with a watage of 360. Good combo? Bad combo? I kno that i probably wont be running on the max levels seeing that it will be 12v instaed of the 14.4 i hear about.
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Old 01-24-2005, 08:06 PM
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try to match the rms ratings the best you can
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Old 01-24-2005, 09:27 PM
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You actually want an amp that can put out MORE clean power than the speakers...
you can ruin a 500w set of speakers with a crappy 50W amp.. a good set of 50w speakers will last a while on a clean 500W amp though..

Case in point.. I'm running some Focal 165K2 components up front.. 200W RMS to each mid and 50W to each tweeter (biamped w/ active crossover.. 200x2 amp on my mids, 50x2 on my tweets).. Rated at 100w/channel nominal, 200w Max...

I've been pounding the CRAP out of them with 200W RMS for about four years now.. I've only had one tweeter go bad, and it was after I left the windows open in a downpour and the tweeter got soaked in the rain.
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:56 AM
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but you still have active xovers, i was just sayin for basics, rule of thumb ya know sorta thing
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