Blue LED tips, my version
#41
putting a 330 ohm resistor after the dimmer
Hey Toolrocks,
I was re-reading your posting on how you used a 330ohm resistor for the LED's, but I realized that the placement would affect the gauge lights as well. If you don't replace the gauge lights with LEDs, won't they burn much dimmer than before? I noticed you later went to Indiglo's for your gauge faces... is this why?
~Gary
I was re-reading your posting on how you used a 330ohm resistor for the LED's, but I realized that the placement would affect the gauge lights as well. If you don't replace the gauge lights with LEDs, won't they burn much dimmer than before? I noticed you later went to Indiglo's for your gauge faces... is this why?
~Gary
#42
Re: putting a 330 ohm resistor after the dimmer
Originally posted by Gary95
Hey Toolrocks,
I was re-reading your posting on how you used a 330ohm resistor for the LED's, but I realized that the placement would affect the gauge lights as well. If you don't replace the gauge lights with LEDs, won't they burn much dimmer than before? I noticed you later went to Indiglo's for your gauge faces... is this why?
~Gary
Hey Toolrocks,
I was re-reading your posting on how you used a 330ohm resistor for the LED's, but I realized that the placement would affect the gauge lights as well. If you don't replace the gauge lights with LEDs, won't they burn much dimmer than before? I noticed you later went to Indiglo's for your gauge faces... is this why?
~Gary
Multiplexor you're fine with your calculations at 3 volts.
trinity000 I pulled my BOSE face plate apart too (real easy) I don't think that a led is going to light the buttons up well enough for you. Remeber the light comes out of the end of the led in a fairly narrow beam, since you've had the face plate off, you've seen the clear plastic, that is meant to channel the light to the buttons. This plastic channel needs the light to be emitted to the sides. You know what I mean? If you do it let me know how it goes please. Good luck everyone.
#43
hey toolrocks i bought the resistors but the radioshacks near my house are out of the 276-311 (430 vs 470nm blue) cause i bought them all lol seriously. but i did by the resistors and if my math is right (wanna chk it for me?) i measured the bulbs at about 13v and the leds are 5v and figuring out the amp into it... i came out with a 250-ohm resistor so i got a 270 so that way the 5% tolerance would bring it to about 260ish (i tested a minute ago and they are 258-260 ohms)
i did buy a 470 that i can use for testing puposes so later tommorrow i will test the led out in the head unit and let you all know how it goes...
i did buy a 470 that i can use for testing puposes so later tommorrow i will test the led out in the head unit and let you all know how it goes...
#44
Sweet, can't wait. I'm about to redo some lights in my dash and have been considering doing this again. So I can't wait to see your results. If you can post a pic please do. I know the second I put leds in my radio, the BOSE will die it's always my luck. hehe
One question, what's the mcd rating on the 470? I can't remeber the specs but the bluer led is the #276-316 and it's got a bright mcd, I think like 1200 which is more than the #276-311 which I think is like 300 mcd?? Good luck.
One question, what's the mcd rating on the 470? I can't remeber the specs but the bluer led is the #276-316 and it's got a bright mcd, I think like 1200 which is more than the #276-311 which I think is like 300 mcd?? Good luck.
#46
Re: Re: putting a 330 ohm resistor after the dimmer
Thanks, toolrocks. That makes sense... of course, LEDs draw much less than filament bulbs. (I should have realized it myself).
I didn't bother with the Bose... I just replaced it with a JVC KD-SH99, with absolutely no regrets. Playing 100+ songs on a single CD (MP3's) is just so damned awesome.
I didn't bother with the Bose... I just replaced it with a JVC KD-SH99, with absolutely no regrets. Playing 100+ songs on a single CD (MP3's) is just so damned awesome.
#47
i don't wish to deal with changing a system that is good enough for me... plus i enjoy all this stuff we are doing
update: i did do the led change in the bose for the disc light... it looks great in blue but this time i used the 3.7v 2600mcd 470nm led (radioshack 276-313) it is is birghter but still pretty close to the same color as the switches not THAT far off...
i still like the windows better but the brighter ones suits the bose better...
i think as long as the leds are bright enough then the plastic reflective stuff won't hinder us much at all (aimed at you toolrocks) oh and by the way i agree TOOL does ROCK!!!!
update: i did do the led change in the bose for the disc light... it looks great in blue but this time i used the 3.7v 2600mcd 470nm led (radioshack 276-313) it is is birghter but still pretty close to the same color as the switches not THAT far off...
i still like the windows better but the brighter ones suits the bose better...
i think as long as the leds are bright enough then the plastic reflective stuff won't hinder us much at all (aimed at you toolrocks) oh and by the way i agree TOOL does ROCK!!!!
#48
Well cool, I'm glad I could help some people out. I love doing electrical stuff, so it's great talking with others that do the same thing. My next electrical project is going to be wiring up one of my brake lights to work like a rear fog light. I just don't know which bulb to illuminate. Should I do the drivers side on the trunk lid, or the drivers side on the body? I'm thinking trunk lid but the body would probably be easier to wire (access wise).
I also plan to install leds in the dome light area.
I need to get a digital camera. I'd like to post a how 2 occasionally when I do these things. Hope all your projects go well
I also plan to install leds in the dome light area.
I need to get a digital camera. I'd like to post a how 2 occasionally when I do these things. Hope all your projects go well
#49
i am putting led's in my dome and my clearance lights this week... (i bought some eurolights bulbs for the clearance lights but it is too electric blue for me! it is crazy!)
i am slo gonna do the bose but i don't have the money to buy that many leds right now so i wanna work on a few other things that i think are more important right now...
by the way did you figure out what resistor to use for the dome light? what voltage are the bulbs in their right now (haven't chked yet)
i am slo gonna do the bose but i don't have the money to buy that many leds right now so i wanna work on a few other things that i think are more important right now...
by the way did you figure out what resistor to use for the dome light? what voltage are the bulbs in their right now (haven't chked yet)
#50
Originally posted by Toolrocks
Well cool, I'm glad I could help some people out. I love doing electrical stuff, so it's great talking with others that do the same thing. My next electrical project is going to be wiring up one of my brake lights to work like a rear fog light. I just don't know which bulb to illuminate. Should I do the drivers side on the trunk lid, or the drivers side on the body? I'm thinking trunk lid but the body would probably be easier to wire (access wise).
I also plan to install leds in the dome light area.
I need to get a digital camera. I'd like to post a how 2 occasionally when I do these things. Hope all your projects go well
Well cool, I'm glad I could help some people out. I love doing electrical stuff, so it's great talking with others that do the same thing. My next electrical project is going to be wiring up one of my brake lights to work like a rear fog light. I just don't know which bulb to illuminate. Should I do the drivers side on the trunk lid, or the drivers side on the body? I'm thinking trunk lid but the body would probably be easier to wire (access wise).
I also plan to install leds in the dome light area.
I need to get a digital camera. I'd like to post a how 2 occasionally when I do these things. Hope all your projects go well
#51
sadly they don't make spolier leds for the max that are the right layout and still clear (with red leds inside) i wish they did... i am thinking of having a piece of plastic custom molded to the same specs as the red one on the car... i can always rewire the leds if needed as i am not sure what color the leds inside the stock one are.
#52
First off, the dome light is a single 12 volt bulb. I think I'm gonna get some superhigh mcd rated leds and wire them in place of the bulb. I'm not sure of the configuration I'll use. Maybe 4 leds w/a resistor each, all paralleled, or maybe 2 sets of seriesed - so I haven't figured out the resistor value yet. I'll post once I do it. I really need that electronics class. Last semester it was cancelled - too many dummies at my school. hehe
About the clear brake light in the spoiler. Ben Blanco from this board has one that is clear w/ red leds I think. YOu may want to pm him? If I can remember, I'll ask him tomorrow in class if he has one and where he got it.
For my rear fog light I want it to operate similar to European cars, Audis, Volvos, and I'm sure a lot of other makes have one of the brake lights constantly illuminated whenever you have the headlights on. It's meant to help people behind you that might not see you in inclement weather. I will simply take a trigger (+ or -) from my fog light circuit to pilot a relay that will then switch +12 volts to the + of the brake light. I will also need to put a diode in that brake light wire so that the +12 volts I send the lights doesn't get fed back into the other lights, illuminating them all. Again, if I can, I'll post what I do and if I have success.
I wish I could write my school papers this easily.laugh:
About the clear brake light in the spoiler. Ben Blanco from this board has one that is clear w/ red leds I think. YOu may want to pm him? If I can remember, I'll ask him tomorrow in class if he has one and where he got it.
For my rear fog light I want it to operate similar to European cars, Audis, Volvos, and I'm sure a lot of other makes have one of the brake lights constantly illuminated whenever you have the headlights on. It's meant to help people behind you that might not see you in inclement weather. I will simply take a trigger (+ or -) from my fog light circuit to pilot a relay that will then switch +12 volts to the + of the brake light. I will also need to put a diode in that brake light wire so that the +12 volts I send the lights doesn't get fed back into the other lights, illuminating them all. Again, if I can, I'll post what I do and if I have success.
I wish I could write my school papers this easily.laugh:
#53
lol i agree with the school paper thing
yea i know the dome light is a single 12v and never thought about doing seriesed i think this would work best and if done right the longest without blowing anything... do you know ben's username so i can't pm him?
yea i know the dome light is a single 12v and never thought about doing seriesed i think this would work best and if done right the longest without blowing anything... do you know ben's username so i can't pm him?
#54
Originally posted by trinity000
lol i agree with the school paper thing
yea i know the dome light is a single 12v and never thought about doing seriesed i think this would work best and if done right the longest without blowing anything... do you know ben's username so i can't pm him?
lol i agree with the school paper thing
yea i know the dome light is a single 12v and never thought about doing seriesed i think this would work best and if done right the longest without blowing anything... do you know ben's username so i can't pm him?
Here ya go BenBlanco218 - he's on the DC boards most I think.
#55
Originally posted by Toolrocks
I'll let you know if I figure anything out further about the dome light.
Here ya go BenBlanco218 - he's on the DC boards most I think.
I'll let you know if I figure anything out further about the dome light.
Here ya go BenBlanco218 - he's on the DC boards most I think.
I was going to try 2 blues and 2 whites. blues rated at 1500 mCd's and whites at 2300 mCd's.
#56
Originally posted by multiplexor
i was going to try 4 leds as a dome light... but i never thought it would be as bright as having the light you have now...
I was going to try 2 blues and 2 whites. blues rated at 1500 mCd's and whites at 2300 mCd's.
i was going to try 4 leds as a dome light... but i never thought it would be as bright as having the light you have now...
I was going to try 2 blues and 2 whites. blues rated at 1500 mCd's and whites at 2300 mCd's.
#57
Originally posted by Toolrocks
I think the whites would over power the blues I know that my 276-316 blue security light is really bright - I think 4 or 5 of these would be nice and bright. BTW, the Harlan shift light I have is comprised of 6 blue leds and it is very bright too.
I think the whites would over power the blues I know that my 276-316 blue security light is really bright - I think 4 or 5 of these would be nice and bright. BTW, the Harlan shift light I have is comprised of 6 blue leds and it is very bright too.
instead i used the 2 blues and installed those in the in my front vents and took the whites and put those where my shift boot is. lights up the boot area. looks cool.
#58
Spoiler LED unit, rear fog light
As for the spoiler LED unit being white, I think that guy has an aftermarket spoiler. It happens to accept a 4 tab LED unit, which Electrodyne makes with a perfect fit. Unfortunately, we're stuck with a 3 tab LED unit. Even the 3 tab version that Electrodyne sells has the tabs in different positions, so that won't work for us.
What I'm thinking of doing is to take a 15.5 inch clear LED unit and just mate the OEM black plastic base to it. Of course, it probably won't fit perfectly, but that's part of the challenge in the DIY world.
Toolrocks, the 276-0316 bulb is rated at 2600mcd. I just checked at Radio Shack. They sure don't carry many of these bulbs... they were completely out when I went there (restocking is "automatic" when the system detects an empty inventory--wonder how long that takes).
As for the rear fog light, this only comes on when you activate a switch AND have the headlights on. For the location, I'd recommend doing it in the trunk lid unit. Seems that's a pretty standard location. If you do the outer one, I think it'll look a little weird. Let us know how it works out. Hopefully you can intercept the wiring near the dashboard, rather than having to run an extra wire all the way from the trunk.
What I'm thinking of doing is to take a 15.5 inch clear LED unit and just mate the OEM black plastic base to it. Of course, it probably won't fit perfectly, but that's part of the challenge in the DIY world.
Toolrocks, the 276-0316 bulb is rated at 2600mcd. I just checked at Radio Shack. They sure don't carry many of these bulbs... they were completely out when I went there (restocking is "automatic" when the system detects an empty inventory--wonder how long that takes).
As for the rear fog light, this only comes on when you activate a switch AND have the headlights on. For the location, I'd recommend doing it in the trunk lid unit. Seems that's a pretty standard location. If you do the outer one, I think it'll look a little weird. Let us know how it works out. Hopefully you can intercept the wiring near the dashboard, rather than having to run an extra wire all the way from the trunk.
#59
Originally posted by trinity000
well i have taken on a great challenge i wanted my bose HU to have blue leds so i took it apart...
the tiny little leds are running at 13v so i am in the process of finding some nice 12v 430nm blue leds...
but if that doesn't work could i use the radishack 276-311 that we are using for the windows? they physically fit ok just need to put in a resistor right? what size?
oh and if any of you have a bose and find that green disc led really ugly it is a 2.2v led so the 276-311 will still work and give off a good color as well as fit (did it)
well i have taken on a great challenge i wanted my bose HU to have blue leds so i took it apart...
the tiny little leds are running at 13v so i am in the process of finding some nice 12v 430nm blue leds...
but if that doesn't work could i use the radishack 276-311 that we are using for the windows? they physically fit ok just need to put in a resistor right? what size?
oh and if any of you have a bose and find that green disc led really ugly it is a 2.2v led so the 276-311 will still work and give off a good color as well as fit (did it)
-zach
#60
those blue condoms actually cover leds not bulbs... but regardless yes i know i need resistor and don't need surface mount led as a stock 5mm will work fine and fit... i figured out that with a 5v led one would need a 250ohm reisistor so i picked up a 270 and with the 5% tolerance that brings it to about 259 ohm or so if i bought the 250's i might be over jucing the leds so i would rather go a little over and loose a tiny bit of light
#61
YES THEY DO!!!! Look-->
Originally posted by trinity000
sadly they don't make spolier leds for the max that are the right layout and still clear (with red leds inside) i wish they did... i am thinking of having a piece of plastic custom molded to the same specs as the red one on the car... i can always rewire the leds if needed as i am not sure what color the leds inside the stock one are.
sadly they don't make spolier leds for the max that are the right layout and still clear (with red leds inside) i wish they did... i am thinking of having a piece of plastic custom molded to the same specs as the red one on the car... i can always rewire the leds if needed as i am not sure what color the leds inside the stock one are.
Make sure you type in Rear Brake Light in the search.
http://www.electrodyne.cc
code #555111CLEAR
#62
Originally posted by zboy
You sure they were LEDs? I took apart the Bose unit from my 96 a few months ago, and it was little light bulbs (with blue condoms on them). If you want to replace them with LEDs, you'll have to get some surface mount LEDs and a resistor for each LED to drop the current. www.eled.com is a good place to check for LEDs. Although, I suppose if you could find 3mm blue LEDs, you might be able to use those instead of surface mount ones...depends how much room there is behind the face in the Bose unit..
-zach
You sure they were LEDs? I took apart the Bose unit from my 96 a few months ago, and it was little light bulbs (with blue condoms on them). If you want to replace them with LEDs, you'll have to get some surface mount LEDs and a resistor for each LED to drop the current. www.eled.com is a good place to check for LEDs. Although, I suppose if you could find 3mm blue LEDs, you might be able to use those instead of surface mount ones...depends how much room there is behind the face in the Bose unit..
-zach
#63
Originally posted by zboy
You sure they were LEDs? I took apart the Bose unit from my 96 a few months ago, and it was little light bulbs (with blue condoms on them). If you want to replace them with LEDs, you'll have to get some surface mount LEDs and a resistor for each LED to drop the current. www.eled.com is a good place to check for LEDs. Although, I suppose if you could find 3mm blue LEDs, you might be able to use those instead of surface mount ones...depends how much room there is behind the face in the Bose unit..
-zach
You sure they were LEDs? I took apart the Bose unit from my 96 a few months ago, and it was little light bulbs (with blue condoms on them). If you want to replace them with LEDs, you'll have to get some surface mount LEDs and a resistor for each LED to drop the current. www.eled.com is a good place to check for LEDs. Although, I suppose if you could find 3mm blue LEDs, you might be able to use those instead of surface mount ones...depends how much room there is behind the face in the Bose unit..
-zach
.....Though if i didn't have my nephew and had to ship straight to canada, would have cost me 38$.....
but i'd still save 2$
#64
ok even if they are really bulbs the leds will still work as i replaced the same type of ting in my cruise control switch and although i can't get the switch to work when i put it together (don't ask) when i have it apart it works fine...
also on the dude who say electrodyne has the rear brake light in clear that is incorrect as we need one that is 15.5" with a 3tab layout and they do have one but the tabs are the wrong poistion for a direct fit... i am sure i could jerry-rig it but i don't want to really do that... at least i was told we have a 3 tab led bar
also on the dude who say electrodyne has the rear brake light in clear that is incorrect as we need one that is 15.5" with a 3tab layout and they do have one but the tabs are the wrong poistion for a direct fit... i am sure i could jerry-rig it but i don't want to really do that... at least i was told we have a 3 tab led bar
#65
also i am having a hard time getting my manual climate control apart... i can get the back off and the first daughter board unscrewed but can't get the board out cause that black box that hooks to the fan dial is in the way and i can't seem to get it out even with the tabs on the side of the box... am i missing something.. i only spent a few minutes so maybe i did... any help or pictures would be appreciated.
#66
Originally posted by trinity000
also i am having a hard time getting my manual climate control apart... i can get the back off and the first daughter board unscrewed but can't get the board out cause that black box that hooks to the fan dial is in the way and i can't seem to get it out even with the tabs on the side of the box... am i missing something.. i only spent a few minutes so maybe i did... any help or pictures would be appreciated.
also i am having a hard time getting my manual climate control apart... i can get the back off and the first daughter board unscrewed but can't get the board out cause that black box that hooks to the fan dial is in the way and i can't seem to get it out even with the tabs on the side of the box... am i missing something.. i only spent a few minutes so maybe i did... any help or pictures would be appreciated.
-zach
#68
Originally posted by trinity000
also on the dude who say electrodyne has the rear brake light in clear that is incorrect as we need one that is 15.5" with a 3tab layout and they do have one but the tabs are the wrong poistion for a direct fit... i am sure i could jerry-rig it but i don't want to really do that... at least i was told we have a 3 tab led bar
also on the dude who say electrodyne has the rear brake light in clear that is incorrect as we need one that is 15.5" with a 3tab layout and they do have one but the tabs are the wrong poistion for a direct fit... i am sure i could jerry-rig it but i don't want to really do that... at least i was told we have a 3 tab led bar
#69
Originally posted by Gary95
That's right. My thought is that you could buy the 15.5" clear one, then switch bases with the OEM one currently on your car. But you have to assume that the thickness is the same... it is likely to be different, since there are more LEDs in the Electrodyne one. Might be worth contacting them to get the exact dimensions of the unit. I was able to repair my malfunctioning LED unit, so I'm not burning to get it replaced... but if you end up finding some useful info in your research, please post. Thanks!
That's right. My thought is that you could buy the 15.5" clear one, then switch bases with the OEM one currently on your car. But you have to assume that the thickness is the same... it is likely to be different, since there are more LEDs in the Electrodyne one. Might be worth contacting them to get the exact dimensions of the unit. I was able to repair my malfunctioning LED unit, so I'm not burning to get it replaced... but if you end up finding some useful info in your research, please post. Thanks!
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