I'm sure a lot of u guys out there...with hard-hitting systems...have had this problem. How do we keep the trunk torsion bars from rattling? My box was custom built, along with a raised false floor to level it out, leaving me with about 1/2" or 1/4" between the top of my box and the bars. If anyone can please give me any help. All opinions would be appreciated, but try to only post if u have actually dealt and fixed this problem. THX!!

 

I would try some sort of tubular foam material with a slit on it. Something like the stuff that comes on a little kids bike, or something similar.

 

Thx....that's something that i hadn't thought of. Do u think maybe a spray on deadener would work?

 

No problem .

If the bars are actually making contact, I do not think that the spray on will work that good, but I may be wrong. I have heard from a few people that the spray on stuff is not as good as the actual mat material. If you want, give it a shot, and if it works it was an easy fix.

 

I'm going to Lowe's/HD and looking into rubber tubing. You can euther lube it or cut it and fit it over the bars. If that doesn't work for me, I am removing it. Drives me crazy.

 

i coudln't think of anything so i cut mine out

 

lol well yo do have a bigasss box

 

ShRapNer, I had been thinking about just cutting it out, but didn't know if the trunk would be ok without it. I guess u really had no other choice when u put a 15" n the 4th gen trunk. If u haven't had any problems, then i may just go the same route u went. Sounds like the best way to fix a problem is to just get rid of the problem.

 

Anybody else run n2 this problem?

 

i do have a big box... didn't really hear mine rattling over the bumper and the rest of the rear section rattling but still... now i have much more room for my box and i have a little bit of space left..

i don't get in my trunk much anyway. so i don't really have to worry about keeping the lid open for long periods of time..

 

Yea i can't really hear the torsion bars actually rattling n the inside of my car, but when i opened my trunk the other nite to let some of my friends see and hear my system, that's all u could hear. My box was gonna be as big as yours but i didn't really want to lose all of my trunk space. Have u had ur setup on a meter yet? Would love to know how loud it is.

 

BTW....I know that sub has to beat the $hit outta the back of the trunk between the inner tailights. My sub is sitting 15"-16" from the rear of my car, and sometimes it looks like it just might blow out...maybe its because i haven't completly shaved the trunk, just the nissan emblem

 

havn't tested it yet... as this town is crap and all the shops are too ****ing cheap to buy one lol...

im hoping to soon get it metered though.. just not sure where yet.

 

its inside the trunk lid.. there is no way or atleast that i know of.. to actually stop all the rattling

 

I actually have put one layer of Xtreme Dynamat through the opening in the frame of the trunk so it would actually be on the inside of the trunk skin...it helped a little. I was thinkin maybe a cf trunk would be nice 2 have with a big system, but its $600 and u can't have the cf trunk w/o a cf hood...so that's another $400.

 

Try looking up fatmat on the internet. I just purchased about $40 for 30 sq ft. I think...to test it out. You will want to mat your trunk to improve sound quality, decibel level, and to isolate noise. Generally, you can put some of the wrap material under the areas the torsion bars it and it will deaden the rebound. Also, it doesn't hurt to wrap the torsion bars in foam or cloth, whatever is handy...

 

I'm gonna try to cover them n something soon. I'm gonna have to do somethin about the rear deck also. Gonna have to get the welder and some metal angle, and c if i can't brace it a little better. It moves a lot, but makes no noise. Could b a reason why the torsion bars move as much as they do since they r braced to the deck.

 

Today I heard a loud pop and the rattling got extremely intense. The plastic piece that seperates the two bars actually broke free from the rear deck and started a tare in the sheetmetal. I bought some foam pipe insulation HD # 803014117968 $5.97. It is found near the PVC. I also bought a rool of insulation tape HD #803014123310 $159 to secure it to the rods. The insulation will need to be scored to fit the rods tightly. I will take pictures and let you know how it turned out. Hoping to have some free time Satuday.

 

Thanx a lot filtor1. Definatly gonna have to do something.

 

It's a freaking monsoon here today. Sorry for the delay. Will do as soon as I get dry.

 

super glue the trunk shut...

 

Do what Marco did, remove the torsion rods all together. Then retrofit some sort of hood struts into the rear trunk.

 

That is a good idea. Just worried about the cost of the struts. How much are they? I went to replace mine on my 89'SE and they were outragously priced. If you know of a good place, please let us know. If my $8 fix doesn't work, I will try it.

 

I don't know, PM POLO. He can tell you the cost.

 

That's exactly what I was going to suggest. You could also try that sprial wrap plastic stuff...not sure what it's called. It's used for electrical wires, similar to split loom tubing. You could even try heat shrink tubing if you can find the appropriate size.

Tony

 

I am elbow deep in this project today. It is relatively time consuming. Another thing, I removed the light in the trunk. It had been one of the random buzzes coming from the deck. If you have a giant box like I do. The light is blocked anyway. Just take it out andsecure the wire via sticky double sided tape. I was suprised to see how much noise came from that little bugger. I have been taking pictures, and will be doing a small write up for you.

 

I also had to take my bar out for my boxes to fit and not have it rattle to hell. I have a traveling tool case that I use to hold the trunk up when I need to.

 

Yeah, if this doesn't work. That is exactly what I am going to do. Even though I have about 1/3 of my trunk left, I rarely use it. Just incase someone pulls out in front of me and whatever is back there goes through the cone.

 

Driving into town. 30 mins both ways. I will put it through some punishment and then post results/how-to.

 

come by my house.

 

Was shopping with the wife. I am free tomorrow though. If your free, I would love to hear that 15" wangin.

As for the project. Night and day. I am very pleased with my $8 fix. There were signs where the tension bar actually was hitting the rear deck(scrathes). I scored the foam in half and wrapped the middle 14 inches and then wound pieces of the tape around it to secure the foam to the bar. I removed the trunk light and used double sided tape to secure it to the rear deck and then put a piece of the insulation tape on top of them to further secure and to keep them from hitting the cover for the rear deck. Almost all the rattles are gone. I can't wait to get my V-mat and blanket the car to take care of all the other buzzes and rattles. All in all it was a huge success and I am very happy with the results. I have a host but he is asleep. If you want pics just PM me with an email address. The whole job took roughly 1.5 hours. On a scale of 1-10, def a 1 or 2. Very easy. Hope my descriptions help.

 

tru. kevin tells me you are doing the big 3... in interested in doing this also. how much is the big 3 gonna cost you ( what gauge wiring, etc)? maybe i can stop by and we can both do this project.

 

Appreciate the help filtor1. Whenever u get ur host to post some pics would love to c them. And let me know how the big 3 turns out. I have been meaning to do this, but just haven't had the time. I'm either doin mine with 4g or 1/0g wire.

 

I will have you both out for that project. I am not sure about the cost yet. It depends on what kind of deal I get on the wire. If you and Kevin really want to do your cars, I will order enough for all three cars. Of coarse I will let you know the cost before hand. As for the wire size, I have been instucted to use 1/0g for the big 3 and 4g for the rest of the engine grounding kit. We will need approx 8ft of 1/0g and 12ft of 4g for the entire project. The most expensive part will be the actual connectors you choose to use. Jeremy has a hookup at a wire warehouse in Orlando. I will be asking him first. As a matter of fact, I will ask him today.

One thing I forgot. I already have a Dremmil tool. I was also instructed to use it at every contact point to ensure a good connection.

As soon as I get my host(hopefully tonight) I will post a link to the pics.