PLEASE critique my system! If you think there is anything I should change/remove please let me know how you would change it! All feedback is welcomed. The headunit is the Alpine CDA-9833.

 

i really cant wait to hear your results from the extremis mids! looks good so far. whos installing all of this?

 

good choice of components,youll love the Arc and the Rainbows, btw what kind of amp is that for the interiors? you might as well get another arc one, o and would that EXTREMIS fit in the door? nice choices though

 

what's the recommended volume for the koda? thought it was less than 1 cu ft

 

Me, me, me! I have a week off in July set aside for the install, I am going to start on fiberglassing the sail & kick panels neck weekend.

No, the extremis will not fit in the doors...the deepest woofer that can fit behind the door is 3.125"...the extremis is 3.88", so I will have to cut the OEM panel and make an MDF ring, thereby giving me the extra depth I will need to clear the door, and 'glass it to the door...nothing too crazy. As for getting another XXK, yes it would be nice, but it is going to take me some time to save up for a 2500xxk to power them, so I am throwing a cheapo for the time being.

I have heard a variety of volume for the Koda, but I called Adire and they said this would work equally as well.

 

Not much to criticize except the crappy amp on the extremis's, and that u should get an eclipse deck lol, come on man if you can afford all that one more amp cant be that much more. Did you buy the Q form kicks? Because I was debating this, but I was worried about it being that I also have a 5 speed and how tight it would be in there with the clutch.

-kevin

 

is this your first setup? because those like great products, your car would sound very very clean

 

wait i didnt realize that amp both powers your componnents and sub? is it a 4 channel? how much rms is the sub getting from that amp?

 

The amps should be more than sufficent at providing clean power so there is no need to use an HU with an 8v preout; IMHO it would be overkill at that point. Yes, the 2500xxk IS that much more. And finally, I am fiberglassing cutom kickpods, so I can change the mounting depth & height to my liking as to not interfere with the clutch.

In a car? No. In a Max? yes.

The RMS is far less than their thermal capacity. The comps will bee a VERY underrated 85W per channel and the Koda will be seeing around 230W.

 

There was a hint of sarcasm in there, everyone dogs on Alpine now (including me) but that deck will be fine.

-kevin

 

I like the setup. Of course not favoring the HU although it will do the job. Keep in mind though the 4150 and Especially the 2500 are Extremely sensitive as far as inputs go.

As for the Eclipse 3.5s...might create a bit of an imaging problem, nbut since theyre relatively cheap and are only running off of HU power, try it out and let us know how it sounds. I am still procrastinating on putting in my Rainbow CP80 center channel and CSP center channel amp...and since Im now selling the car they may never make it in.

My obvious question would be...where did you buy all the stuff from?

 

I thought it was, not enough coffee when I read it...haha

Yeah, the new Eclipse decks do outpace the new Alpines, but I bought this one for $315 including the power kit...a price I was very happy to recieve!

 

System looks good. Set that unkn own amp on fire. Why not upgrade. Every other piece of the system is of high quality. I am of the opinion that your system is only as good as your weakest component. That is the only thing I would change.

 

Yeah, I think I am going to scrap the 3.5s and just bridge the HU down for two channels to feed the 165SLs. I think I will run into a phasing issue and that is the last thing I will need considering how I will have enough work to do with bandpassing the Extremis.

If the company whom I work for ends up in the green this fiscal year then I will probably pick up the 2500...but until then I will simply be running the crapola amp until I have enough money to upgrade. Which XXK would you recommend for Extremis'? I would want to run at least 150W @ 4-ohms per channel.

 

I was not aware HU ch's were bridgeable....

On the Extremis I'd recommend an XXK2100...more than enough power

I dont like the 3.5's idea- unless you are putting the ACS tweets in the kicks as well-might have a low stage, and they could raise the stage- non the less I personally dislike the mix of different company tweets -let us know how it turns out

 

^ i do think some pioneer models say they can in the manual and you get like 70wattsx2 to run a sub, lol.

 

lmao Im very surprised I havent gotten a car at work from the typical Gainesville residents with their head unit powering a sub

rich and chris know what im talkin about by these people

 

I would highly recommend against bridging the HU, it will most likely become very unstable. Pioneer has the option, but only on their rear outs....

I would say another 4150XXK would suit them Very nicely.

Ya didnt answer my other question though..PM me if youd like.

 

Aren't your fiberglass pods going to cover the dead pedal area? I too was considering doing something with pods but I wasn't certain I wanted to give up space to the left of the clutch for my foot. If you've found a way around it, I would love to know. Sounds like a good setup and I'm totally jealous of the time you've got to do it... Good luck!

 

I know when I was in HS and coudn't afford a thing, I had my Alpine HU hooked up to a free air JL W0 15. It sucked and I got the idea from another gainesville resident. Terrible. Just terrible.

 

YES thats what im talkin about

 

not too bad. I have been installing for 15 years now and was MECP certified for a long time. Things I see are.
1. scrap the center channel idea. If you have your mids set up right your center stage will be anchored.
2. scrap the rear doors idea. That is a horrible place for a rear fill, and you don't really need rear fill anyway. When you go to a concert, you never hear music coming from behind you.
3. Think about putting your tweets in the kicks on the same plane as your mids. You are trying to equalize wave paths. The drivers a pilar tweet will be much closer than the passenger side.
4. Consider useing 8's in the doors. I put 8" audax woofers in my doors. They played down to 50hz.
5. Also consider suspending your woofer enclosure from the rear deck and fire the speaker through the deck. You will not get the loading effect from firing it into the truck, but the bass will be pristine.

 

The way I position my left leg in the car is the quad against the door and the foot back towards the seat...I don't use the dead pedal so I am more than willing to lose the space.

 

4. Have you read the Extremis' spec sheet?
5. The rear deck does not have ample width as to support chopping a 10" hole; that idea is just silly. I also have no desire to put my rear passenger into a coma due to a mild concussion that is the result of low frequency waves being fired at their skulls.

 

The only time I would really want/need my dead pedal is for highway trips, dunno if its worth it.

 

I'm short (5'8"), so I'll find ways around it.

 

man I was just trying to offer a little advise from someone who has a hell of alot more knowledge than you. FYI I am a tried and true competitor, haveing built one IASCA pro world champion. I thin you need to watch whoat you call "silly"
Maybe you wish to check out how IASCA Expert world champion Scott Buwalda has his 3 10's mounted in his altima.

It is also pretty naive to think you are going to cause any damage to anyone with a single driver mounted anywhere unless you are running an Adire Parthenon with a hell of alot more power than you are talking about useing.

 

The problem those of us with 5th gen is the trunk tension bar. It will not allow the necessary depth that that Altima does. BTW, that install is awesome. Did they make a baffle for the top/bottom of the rear deck?

 

Hhe altima has the tortion bas as well, He replaced them with gas struts like used on our hoods, as you can see in the picture. Believe it or not all he did was build a wedge shaped baffle to mount the three DLS 10's to and then greatly deadened his rear deck. The 10's play through the factory speaker locations (no cutting at all)
This uses the trunk as an infinate baffle inclosure and firing them through the speaker holes, which has less area than that of the tranducers, creates a loading effect. Also addressing the issue of "not enough room in the rear deck for a single 10". This would not be a hard thing to do at all, tortion bars or not. All it takes is a little imagination, and a little basic know-how. I have built tons of show-quality systems doing things that others said could not be done. I.E. mounting a very deep 8" polykevlar woofer in the doors of my 4th gen, installing 4 12's in a 5th gen and still keeping 1/2 the trunk area, and maintaining an decent sub bass response, and creating a single 18" system that broke the 160DB barrier.

 

Very nice. I applaud your enginuity. Sorry to ***** the post but do the gas struts pose any issues in the trunk? My box is way too wide to add them at this point. If I were to remove the torsion bar, what effect would that have on the trunk w/o replacing them with anither type of support?

 

NICE! Whatcha running there?

 

it's not mine. That is Scott Buwalda's car from 2003-2004.

 

I have never used this exact setup, but what I have done, and it takes less space. You can remove the tortion bars, and install a linear actuator on one hinge arm. That way you can open and close your trunk with an alarm remote.

 

Only thing i can think of right now is rattle... are you dynomating at all because max's tend to go crazy when bass shakes em. Ive never heard of the sub. what kind is it?