Non-Bose System in 5th Gen ?
Non-Bose System in 5th Gen ?
Traded my 92 max in for an 03 with the non-bose HU. I pulled the stereo out of my old ride(aftermarket HU, kappa 5 1/4" components, kappa 6x9's and 2 amps) and want to install in the 03.
Question is two parts 1) Can do this with the existing stock HU? and 2) If I can, does it make sense?
Question is two parts 1) Can do this with the existing stock HU? and 2) If I can, does it make sense?
Sorry for the confusion, don't think I worded the first post well.
2 options:
1) Install speakers/amps with stock HU
2) Install speakers/amps/aftermarket HU and remove stock HU
Is option 1 possible? If so, does it make sense?
2 options:
1) Install speakers/amps with stock HU
2) Install speakers/amps/aftermarket HU and remove stock HU
Is option 1 possible? If so, does it make sense?
Sure, all you need is a line output converter [unless the amp has speaker level inputs, then using those may be okay]. Some people don't think you can get as good of sound from them, but I've never had a bad sounding stereo using them, just make sure you use a good one.
dh
dh
Option 1 makes NO SENSE AT ALL. There will be WORLDS of difference between powering amps with a line output converter and an aftermarket deck. I install at Circuit City, and not to be contradictory or start an argument, but out of the multiple stereos I install every day, I have never had a single amp sound what i would consider good with high level input. A line output converter is a little better, but the only time I would ever run one is when adding a sub to a complete factory system. When adding a 4 channel amp, or speakers, or anything else at all, you DEFINITELY need an aftermarket head unit. When starting a system from scratch, the radio and 4 speakers should be the first things you replace, then worry about amps and subs. Your system is only as good as its weakest link, and factory head units, whether they are Bose or not, SUCK.
On a side note, youll need to make or buy 6.5 to 5.25 adapters to get your 5.25 speakers to fit in front, and since you don't have Bose, youll either need to cut a hole in the door or A-pillar to make a spot for the tweeter. Or you can buy the factory A-pillars with the grill on them, and make everything look factory. Youll also have to cut the rear door to hell to get a 6x9 to fit in there. Your better off buying a decent set of 6.5" coaxials for the rear, and selling the 6x9s you currently have.
-Kevin
On a side note, youll need to make or buy 6.5 to 5.25 adapters to get your 5.25 speakers to fit in front, and since you don't have Bose, youll either need to cut a hole in the door or A-pillar to make a spot for the tweeter. Or you can buy the factory A-pillars with the grill on them, and make everything look factory. Youll also have to cut the rear door to hell to get a 6x9 to fit in there. Your better off buying a decent set of 6.5" coaxials for the rear, and selling the 6x9s you currently have.
-Kevin
I pretty much agree with you about high level inputs on amps, but it would be something he could check out for himself, so see if it's worth saving the $30ish for a decent LOC.
I almost completely disgree with the needing of an aftermarket head unit for 'good' sound. If the stock headunit has a lot of EQ'ing [vs the flat response you'll get from an aftermarket hu], then you have a good point [and yes, many stock stereos nowadays do], but if the signal is flat [ala bose headunits prior to the amp], then it's not necessarily the case.
There's a new product coming out [may be out] by JL that flattens the signal, and adds an aux input, that would be great for keeping OEM headunits w/ nav [or climate controls, etc. . .]. Not really a player in this discussion as it costs like $300-400, but worth mentioning.
dh
I almost completely disgree with the needing of an aftermarket head unit for 'good' sound. If the stock headunit has a lot of EQ'ing [vs the flat response you'll get from an aftermarket hu], then you have a good point [and yes, many stock stereos nowadays do], but if the signal is flat [ala bose headunits prior to the amp], then it's not necessarily the case.
There's a new product coming out [may be out] by JL that flattens the signal, and adds an aux input, that would be great for keeping OEM headunits w/ nav [or climate controls, etc. . .]. Not really a player in this discussion as it costs like $300-400, but worth mentioning.
dh
Originally Posted by danhaman
I pretty much agree with you about high level inputs on amps, but it would be something he could check out for himself, so see if it's worth saving the $30ish for a decent LOC.
I almost completely disgree with the needing of an aftermarket head unit for 'good' sound. If the stock headunit has a lot of EQ'ing [vs the flat response you'll get from an aftermarket hu], then you have a good point [and yes, many stock stereos nowadays do], but if the signal is flat [ala bose headunits prior to the amp], then it's not necessarily the case.
There's a new product coming out [may be out] by JL that flattens the signal, and adds an aux input, that would be great for keeping OEM headunits w/ nav [or climate controls, etc. . .]. Not really a player in this discussion as it costs like $300-400, but worth mentioning.
dh
I almost completely disgree with the needing of an aftermarket head unit for 'good' sound. If the stock headunit has a lot of EQ'ing [vs the flat response you'll get from an aftermarket hu], then you have a good point [and yes, many stock stereos nowadays do], but if the signal is flat [ala bose headunits prior to the amp], then it's not necessarily the case.
There's a new product coming out [may be out] by JL that flattens the signal, and adds an aux input, that would be great for keeping OEM headunits w/ nav [or climate controls, etc. . .]. Not really a player in this discussion as it costs like $300-400, but worth mentioning.
dh
Originally Posted by kpr10is
Option 1 makes NO SENSE AT ALL. There will be WORLDS of difference between powering amps with a line output converter and an aftermarket deck. I install at Circuit City, and not to be contradictory or start an argument, but out of the multiple stereos I install every day, I have never had a single amp sound what i would consider good with high level input. A line output converter is a little better, but the only time I would ever run one is when adding a sub to a complete factory system. When adding a 4 channel amp, or speakers, or anything else at all, you DEFINITELY need an aftermarket head unit. When starting a system from scratch, the radio and 4 speakers should be the first things you replace, then worry about amps and subs. Your system is only as good as its weakest link, and factory head units, whether they are Bose or not, SUCK.
On a side note, youll need to make or buy 6.5 to 5.25 adapters to get your 5.25 speakers to fit in front, and since you don't have Bose, youll either need to cut a hole in the door or A-pillar to make a spot for the tweeter. Or you can buy the factory A-pillars with the grill on them, and make everything look factory. Youll also have to cut the rear door to hell to get a 6x9 to fit in there. Your better off buying a decent set of 6.5" coaxials for the rear, and selling the 6x9s you currently have.
-Kevin
On a side note, youll need to make or buy 6.5 to 5.25 adapters to get your 5.25 speakers to fit in front, and since you don't have Bose, youll either need to cut a hole in the door or A-pillar to make a spot for the tweeter. Or you can buy the factory A-pillars with the grill on them, and make everything look factory. Youll also have to cut the rear door to hell to get a 6x9 to fit in there. Your better off buying a decent set of 6.5" coaxials for the rear, and selling the 6x9s you currently have.
-Kevin
Fortunatley my A-pillar has the tweeter opening, so I'm set there. Regarding the 6x9's, I was afraid of that. I was going to the pull the door and see how bad it looked before I made a decision. Probably go with the 6.5" to keep everything clean.
Ever seen the 6x9"s mounted in the rear deck on this model?
Originally Posted by terp03se
Ever seen the 6x9"s mounted in the rear deck on this model?
Originally Posted by danhaman
I pretty much agree with you about high level inputs on amps, but it would be something he could check out for himself, so see if it's worth saving the $30ish for a decent LOC.
I almost completely disgree with the needing of an aftermarket head unit for 'good' sound. If the stock headunit has a lot of EQ'ing [vs the flat response you'll get from an aftermarket hu], then you have a good point [and yes, many stock stereos nowadays do], but if the signal is flat [ala bose headunits prior to the amp], then it's not necessarily the case.
There's a new product coming out [may be out] by JL that flattens the signal, and adds an aux input, that would be great for keeping OEM headunits w/ nav [or climate controls, etc. . .]. Not really a player in this discussion as it costs like $300-400, but worth mentioning.
dh
I almost completely disgree with the needing of an aftermarket head unit for 'good' sound. If the stock headunit has a lot of EQ'ing [vs the flat response you'll get from an aftermarket hu], then you have a good point [and yes, many stock stereos nowadays do], but if the signal is flat [ala bose headunits prior to the amp], then it's not necessarily the case.
There's a new product coming out [may be out] by JL that flattens the signal, and adds an aux input, that would be great for keeping OEM headunits w/ nav [or climate controls, etc. . .]. Not really a player in this discussion as it costs like $300-400, but worth mentioning.
dh
2)I dont know what kind of head unit you have, but mine has a 7 band EQ. Name a factory radio that has that
Not to mention my 16 volt preouts own you and Bose. Its not completely impossible to get good sound off a factory deck, but it takes a whole lot of work and knowing what your doing. Which most people dont have the money or knowledge for. (i.e. line driver, etc)
slick - I know he doesn't have a bose, I simply meant, like a bose system, some stock headunits don't mess with the signal [I don't know if the non-bose does or not].
kpr - I am definitely not saying that aftermarket head units don't have thier place, they do, as do stock head units. Aftermarket headunits are much better for specific applications, if the user wants [eq, dvd, higher line voltages, dvd, navigation, satellite radio, . . .]. Stock headunits will almost always have better regular radio reception, and will almost always look better [I don't mean aftermarket stereos look bad, just that it often takes a very good amount of fabrication to make it look 'at home' in the dash], plus the stock unit is already integrated with climate controls, navigation, and/or steering wheel controls, which aftermarket head units are not compatible with [yes a good installer can make some of above work with aftermarket, but not all, and not cheaply usually].
As for 16 volt pre-outs - man that's a little overkill. Besides, if you don't have noise in your system, then it makes no difference whatsoever. High voltage outputs simply allow you to raise the noise floor. A good LOC can provide plenty of voltage to keep the noise floor as low as anyone would ever need.
In this particular case, it sounds like terp doesn't have much need to keep the stock headunit [except looks, which can be huge for some people], and perhaps going with his already owned aftermarket headunit is the best solution. I just don't like comments like 'stock headunits suck', etc. . .
dh
kpr - I am definitely not saying that aftermarket head units don't have thier place, they do, as do stock head units. Aftermarket headunits are much better for specific applications, if the user wants [eq, dvd, higher line voltages, dvd, navigation, satellite radio, . . .]. Stock headunits will almost always have better regular radio reception, and will almost always look better [I don't mean aftermarket stereos look bad, just that it often takes a very good amount of fabrication to make it look 'at home' in the dash], plus the stock unit is already integrated with climate controls, navigation, and/or steering wheel controls, which aftermarket head units are not compatible with [yes a good installer can make some of above work with aftermarket, but not all, and not cheaply usually].
As for 16 volt pre-outs - man that's a little overkill. Besides, if you don't have noise in your system, then it makes no difference whatsoever. High voltage outputs simply allow you to raise the noise floor. A good LOC can provide plenty of voltage to keep the noise floor as low as anyone would ever need.
In this particular case, it sounds like terp doesn't have much need to keep the stock headunit [except looks, which can be huge for some people], and perhaps going with his already owned aftermarket headunit is the best solution. I just don't like comments like 'stock headunits suck', etc. . .
dh
We were talking about SQ...If I had factory integrated Nav and Sat Radio I would probably end up keeping that also. But IMO for the majority of people out there, including on this board, unless it has those theres no reason to keep a factory deck. To each his own.
Its 16 volts to run balanced with Eclipse's Balanced Line Adapter.
-kevin
Its 16 volts to run balanced with Eclipse's Balanced Line Adapter.
-kevin
Originally Posted by kpr10is
We were talking about SQ...If I had factory integrated Nav and Sat Radio I would probably end up keeping that also. But IMO for the majority of people out there, including on this board, unless it has those theres no reason to keep a factory deck. To each his own.
Its 16 volts to run balanced with Eclipse's Balanced Line Adapter.
-kevin
Its 16 volts to run balanced with Eclipse's Balanced Line Adapter.
-kevin
I dig the look of the integrated factory head unit, and as long as it has the capabilities you want, I'm a fan of sticking with it.
dh
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