2 12's under the rear seats, anyone have em?

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Jun 14, 2005 | 12:50 PM
  #1  
hey can anyone tell me if i have 2 12s facing back to back pretty close, maybe 2 or 3 inches apart, if thats going to mess somehting up?
i have to do somehting about this 100lb sub box in my trunk its way to much and sags like a mother. loud as sht though, such a good box
im going to try these 2 12s in a box meant for 1 12 and see how they work. the origional hole for the 12 will be open, and ill cut 2 holes on the sides to put the subs. the box is like 1.5 to 2 feet square
anybody think im retarded? or just ghetto
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Jun 14, 2005 | 02:00 PM
  #2  
use baltic birch or ultra lite mdf to shed about 30lbs...
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Jun 14, 2005 | 03:15 PM
  #3  
Yup what slick said...it cost a good amount more than MDF, but weighs a lot less.
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Jun 14, 2005 | 10:25 PM
  #4  
Like the above posts said, just user lighter material.

As for the project with the box...not a good idea. I wouldnt call you retarded, just uneducated in this aspect.
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Jun 25, 2005 | 10:27 AM
  #5  
Just FYI ... you CAN do something similar to this. Observe Isobaric loading. Isobaric loading is loading two speakers into one enclosure that is half the size of the recommended enclosure for ONE speaker. They can be oriented face to face (clamshell design), back to back, front to back, etc.

The secret is in the wiring. Reverse the polarity of one speaker, so that the cones move in unison, as a single mass. Effectively you are increasing overall power handling by quite a bit, but you are lowering (dramatically) your efficiency.

The best vehicle I ever heard with such a setup was my buddy's Hyundai Excel POS circa 1987. He had 4 10" Kappas (2 clamshells) loaded in a hatchback. For whatever reason, the transfer function in the hatchback was AWESOME for that type of box. Car was loud both inside and out ... simply killer.

That said, when I later tried this myself in my Honda Accord (in the trunk), I found lackluster performance from 2 12's loaded in a clamshell design. However, if I remember correctly I had them in too big of a box, so I never got the full effect from them.

Isobaric bandpass is also possible. I've seen this done with 4 self powered 6x9's from a late 80's Chrysler minivan believe it or not. Even harder to believe that, for what it was, it hit pretty hard due to good box design (and bandpass enclosures are always VERY efficient).
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Jun 25, 2005 | 11:12 AM
  #6  
^interesting. i'm probly gonna buy a roto zip and build yet another enclosure to save some trunk room. i am much more interested in sound quality nowadays so having a huge boomer is not a necessity really, but crystal clear highs and punchy azz midbass are appealing.
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Jun 25, 2005 | 11:16 AM
  #7  
In that case, you may want to consider Isobaric, I think you would like it if you have anough power to throw at it.
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Jun 25, 2005 | 11:28 AM
  #8  
^who? me?
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Jun 25, 2005 | 06:50 PM
  #9  
i'm new and im just wondering, what does the material of the boxes matter, better sound reproduction?
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Jun 25, 2005 | 06:56 PM
  #10  
resonance, mdf and fiberboard are less prone to rattling than plywood etc.
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Jun 26, 2005 | 08:07 AM
  #11  
The key is rigidity. You don't want your box to flex or leak air where it isn't supposed to. MDF is the installers choice for price, practicality and availability reasons.
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Jun 26, 2005 | 08:10 AM
  #12  
Quote: ^who? me?
Yes. Your earlier comments:

Quote: ^interesting. i'm probly gonna buy a roto zip and build yet another enclosure to save some trunk room. i am much more interested in sound quality nowadays so having a huge boomer is not a necessity really, but crystal clear highs and punchy azz midbass are appealing.
Isobaric is best at preserving sound quality and getting truly punchy bass in addition to saving LOTS of space and box weight. So, as I said, as long as you have enough power to push them right, you may like Isobaric.
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Jun 26, 2005 | 12:29 PM
  #13  
sweet thanks btw is isobaric a square-shape? like kicker solobaric? or can it use round subs also?
^
ROOK!!!!!!!
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Jul 2, 2005 | 12:37 PM
  #14  
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/786951/1
thats a schematic, it may be a little sophisticated for alot of you but try to bear with me. at the very bottom of my car domain (3rd pic down)
1st diagram is the origional box
2nd is my idea of an isobaric box
3rd is another one but with a smaller space between the speakers...
is any of this right?????
the 3rd empty hole is just for air i guess...unless i should not have an open hole...ive looked up isobaric and found alot of info but i wanted to just ask you guys here what you would do. "hmm if i wher ghetto i would..."

i only have a 300w amp running 2 ****y 12 crunch speakers in a giant box. it can pound like mad with the right song bieng played, sometimes its farty sounding but its awsome. is an isobaric box going to give me any good sound with low power? anything with remote poundageeageage
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