title explains it all, about how much for a new upgraded alternator? and how hard is it to replace it your self? any write ups?

 

Expect to pay around 300-600 for an alternator with about 200+amps. Installation is not too bad.

 

A company in Tampa will make a 200 amp one for ~$400. Can-Am Motors. They dont have a website, so google and call. No write ups for a high output alt that I know of, not sure about just a regular alternator swap, thats probably something better suited for your generation forum so if you decide to get one, Id ask there.

 

What are you running? Have you done the big 3?

 

no i havent doen the big three and i think am am gonna try upgradein them frist before i spend 300+ on a new alternator at this moment i am running 820 watts rms, and once i buy my front componets from Don it will push me up to 1280 rms

 

sorry i will be running 1120 rms when i get my front componets not 1280

 

With that power you should be fine with the stock alt, although your grounding upgrade would be extremely beneficial.

IF you do shop for a new Alt, make sure it is All new parts, not a rebuild using original diodes...

 

An easier solution would be to get a capacitor. You can get a 1.2 or 2 farad at circuit sity for like 100 somthething. The headlights dim because it sucks the power out, a good cap will stop that.

 

OH GOD please quit while your ahead so we dont get another cap thread going.

 

YES PLEASE!!!

There is no such thing as a "good cap"

 

lol, my bad. I don't really recomend them either, I just know when they would be somewhat uselful.

Usually I just tell people not get a system that their car can't handle.

 

LOL yea i read that cap thread it was a mess...... but hitachi sells aslight upgraded alternator brand new for our cars (140 amps over 110) which is what i use. since mine went out.(160 bucks shipped it was)... but i dont notice any light dimming not even before the alt. swap, cept for the check engine light likes to dim(i think it just likes too bee seen tho, pita) i bought mine off ebay a few months ago....im at around 8-900 watts rms

 

running 1240watts rms via fosgate and orion powered by stock alt. and red-top optima, dimming WAS reduced using 1farad lightening audio cap, which is a little too small but an improvement nonetheless.

 

Dont come crying to us when your alternator dies

 

If you are gonna get a HO alternator which I dont think you'll need, double check the amps it puts out at Idle and not at 3.5 0r 3k RPM.

 

?are you sure you know what you're talking about? been running this config. over 5 yrs. in '95 maxima and no complaints from my alt. or me for that matter.

 

I think he knows. I personally went through 2 alternators in my 3rd gen and had 2 1 farad Stinger caps. The load on the stock charging system was just too high. I would get a new alternator now but I just can't afford it. My bandaid is an extra yellow-top in the trunk until I can afford the new alternator. Depending on the current your system is drawing and how often you let the battery recharge will determine the life of the stock alternator. Capacitors are just a bandaid.

 

i'de recomend getting a better alternator if you are going to be adding caps to your set up. i have the PG powercore and i'm just waiting for my alternator to die. and i'm running two batteries in the trunk pumping out 2800rms

 

I am gonna do the big 3 soon, that should help atleast. When I had my HIDs in, it did not dim at all, except my gauge light, since HID is only 35 watts.
Good luck.


- ßaller

 

the hid's might not dim but the power to the balast fluxuates and that is really bad for it.

 

is there a write up on the big three for the maxima? i saw the post in sounddomain, but it looks a bit differnet and im just worried..if someone has pictures or something.... would be greatly appreciated

 

Follow your neg lead from the battery. It connects to a common point with one of the other wires that needs to be upgraded. The second of which is grounded to the motor. Replace both of those. The last one is the Alt+ to Bat+. That's just a matter of finding the Alt+ terminal on the top of the Alternator and running a new + to the Batteries+ terminal.