Yep, just as the title reads, my Arc Audio 4150 XXK has a crossover and so does my 9833, soooo...which crossover do I set?

 

I'm don't know the specifics of the alpine, but from what I hear, it at lease similar to the Eclipses. In this case, forget the amps crossover. You want to do all your tuning sitting the drivers seat, with that HU right there.....Edit: Also, a digital crossover is going to be a lot more flexible and exact than the one on the amplifier. If your Alpine is anything comperable to the Eclipses, you will love it. It is quite "powerful", a step up from your typical amp crossover. No dig on arc AT ALL. Tuning from up front is the only way to be, man....get to know how to play w/ that HU.

If you would like to like me to the manual, I could tell you with more certainty...and what drivers? Locations? Maybe I could take a guess or two

 

Stevie, I can't thank you enough, man. You're def. helping me tie up the loose ends here. I'll be sure to add a "credits" section when the install is done!

Amp Page There is a .pdf file for the manual, I cannot really tell how they would want you to do this. My setup is as follows:

FRONT STAGE: Arc Audio 265 ACS
SUBWOOFER: Adire Audio Kopa 10
AMP: Arc Audio 4150 XXK feeding to the FS and Sub

I am running rearfill of the HU, so that does not come into play here.

 

Dude I don't give a crap about credit's but thanks

I'm on Alpines site for the 9833. It's not giving me a link to download the manual, so all I'm looking at is the two advertisement pages, where they totally don't go in to depth about the processing, which would prolly be the most important reason most would be buying this unit. From what this says, it appears it may only offer 24 db/oct slopes. maybe they're just advertising that it goes up to that steep?

So in this case it seems you're using the passive crossover? These certainly qualify as nice drivers, so if your doors are deadened, I'd start at around 80 hz at a 24 db slope. Shame, not going active takes away your ability to individually time align each individual mid/tweet and play with mid tweet crossover points..might even take away some EQ bands from you (it would if you were doing this with the eclipse). Not trying to be a salesman, but talk to Manny...he likes active Oh, and maybe start by lowpassing the sub round the 60's I guess. Don may have more experience with these drivers specifically, but a cut around the lower midbass section is sometimes in order (as much as people like powerful midbass) around 80-120...oh and try wiring the passenger side midbass driver out of phase drivers mid in....At least give it a try and listen to it for a while.

 

What part of NJ you live in? You might have Don, Manny, or me near by.

 

Southern NJ, about 10 mins from Philly. I probably live equally as close to all three of you guys.

 

ill tune your system, and i dont live too far

 

I'd say go active on that ACS set, wish i did. The ACS xover can take power well, but i found now nothing beats doing your filtering at the signal. Your HU allows for adequate actively control.

On another note the linkey witz/butterwork xovers on the Arc amp are top notch.I believe there's 12db/24db option on the 4150. I actually used the amps xovers when i had it for both comps and sub, i tried a full range signal to the comps and didn't handle it well, so i high passed'm. Just used the HU for equalization.

SINCE your 4ch is to power your whole system, so you'll be using the passives anyway- Run the amp full range and xover the high pass on the HU and see how well it filters. 80hz worked best for me on that set....trying diff things is part of the tuning process

 

The 9833s Slope goes up to 24db. 0 6 12 18 24db. Have Metal Maxima IPersonalize, its easy. Also if he used the 3Way switch on top of the unit he is able to set up the sub cross, mid cross and tweet cross. He's also able to time align each set of speakers.

 

Great to hear about those slopes. Thats the versatility of digital. Any idea on what the potential x/o points of this unit are, maybe some info about the flexibility of the EQ...is it 5 bands per channel? How many/what bands can you select from? How adjustable is the Q? Oh and one more that I wish Eclipse picked up on...can you adjust the phase of individual drivers via the processing function??????? (Nothing like being able to instantly a/b phase switches instead of get out of the car, manually switch wires, get back to car, compare...)

I've heard one real crazy I personalize story....It woudl be cool it it really "popped evenything into place like that"

Steve

 

Ohhhh, man...this is getting intense...

 

Nah man, consider it a great learnig experience. Once you hook up a system, and you have some decent processing, things generally only get better from there . You'll be fine. It would be a lil more fun if you were going active, though

 

I used the IPersonalize site to hook my x-over and time alignment up. worked perfectly. You can only change the Subwoofers phase from the deck.
Parametric EQ Frequencies can be changed to which ever 5 frequencies you'd like. There ar 3 width levels and you can set the levels of each frequency from -6bd to 6db. The default freqs are 20hz, 80hz, 315hz, 1.2khz, & 5khz. You can pick anything from 20hz to 20khz to set the eq points to but they can be placed too close together. The manual doesn't go into detail, but IPersonalize makes it easy to change that function.

Crossover points:
2 Way Mode -
Low Range Speaker 20hz - 200hz LPF. Slope - Flat 6, 12, 18, 24dB/oct Level 0 to -12 dB.
Rear High Range Speaker, 20hz - 200hz HPF. Slope - Flat 6, 12, 18, 24dB/oct Level 0 to -12 dB.
Front High Range Speaker 20hz - 200hz HPF. Slope - Flat 6, 12, 18, 24dB/oct Level 0 to -12 dB.

3 Way Mode -
Low Range Speaker 20hz - 200hz LPF. Slope - Flat 6, 12, 18, 24dB/oct Level 0 to -12 dB.
Mid Range Speaker 20hz - 200hz HPF & 20hz - 20khz LPF. Slope on both HPF & LPF - Flat 6, 12, 18, 24dB/oct Level 0 to -12 dB.
High Range Speaker 1khz - 20khz HPF. Slope - Flat* 6, 12, 18, 24dB/oct Level 0 to -12 dB.
NOTE: To use the Flat slope, you have to go to the menu and set up TW SETUP and set to USERS.

Link to Manual
http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/html/asb/...da-9835_om.pdf




Also if you send me what he wants his, Parametric EQ settings, time alignment, x-over points, levels and slopes set to I can hook it up and email him the file.

 

lotsa great info thanks

 

No problem. I looked to set up my 10 channel sony crossover to control the phase on all speakers but the tweeters and sub were the only speakers I could change the phase on. I was disappointed. BTW, what is the "Q" and how does it work?

 

By the Q of an equalizer cut, it means essentially the "width"...are you cutting just that frequency narrowly, or are you cutting wide, where the frequency you select is the center being cut, but with it affecting other corresponding bands. I've heard the terms "smaller" for a wide q, and larger Q for a narrow slope, but that kinda confuses me.

So if yo have a little peak at just 5k, you narrowly take it out at 5k, but if you got a big boomy midbass and wanna level the whole thing off, find your center frequency of the peak, maybe 120 hz, and cut wide.

Again, the powah of digital. I used to have 3 rack mount processors in my trunk, 2 31 band eq's and a 24 db rack mount xo....never again..tuning up front with one of the digital options out there is just too much fun and can be powerul. I love being able to EQ out peaks on drivers, not the overall system. The Eclipse gives you that.

flipping phasing back and fourth and the flip of a switch is such a nice tuning feature from a practical point of view. the difference isn't automatic night and day (cept for sub phasing), so flipping back and fourth is just effective practice....total pain in the butt to do when you have to manually flip phasing......

Featurewise, if Eclipse would upgrade to individual driver phase flipping instead of the whole system (useless), and maybe forgo one of the parametric Eq bands on the mid and one on the tweet and give it to lower octaves on the sub channel, GET RID OF bass and treble control altoghether (every time i try to turn the volume up or down I end up turning the bass and treble up and down)...anyway if they did that, those units would be above and beyond the great buy they are now.

Oh well , i"m upgrading hehe



Wanna keep it more simple..this would be my advice
crossover
phasing
level match
crossover again
check phasing
maybe another level match
one more check at the x/o
EQ

I was having problems I was trying to EQ out at one point, but there were in the intersection of my x/o point...WRONG....make the drivers blend as best as possible first, then take out the individual peaks left over.