Sound deadening material
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,353
From: Upland CA
Sound deadening material
Has anyone with an upgraded exhaust in a 6th Gen Maxima used sound deadening material in the trunk area or anywhere else to quiet it down some? I know they make material to do it but Im wondering if anyone has actually tried it to see if it works.
Hey Dues, I had the ziebart tar finish treatment done under the car, and it really quiets it down... The treatment was $100, with a 3 year warranty. I don't have an upgraded exhaust, but just wanted to give you a heads up no something you could do....
[QUOTE=DeusExMaxima]Has anyone with an upgraded exhaust in a 6th Gen Maxima used sound deadening material in the trunk area or anywhere else to quiet it down some? I know they make material to do it but Im wondering if anyone has actually tried it to see if it works.[/QUO
I would do what Wakkus_Maximus did first. The deadening material costs a lot of money and you still will hear it.
I love the growl of my sewer pipes. Its really not loud at idle.
The cheapest way to go is turn up the audio.
BTW Good luck with your new system and I hope everything was taken care of with your last problem.
Peace Warren
I would do what Wakkus_Maximus did first. The deadening material costs a lot of money and you still will hear it.
I love the growl of my sewer pipes. Its really not loud at idle.
The cheapest way to go is turn up the audio.
BTW Good luck with your new system and I hope everything was taken care of with your last problem.
Peace Warren
Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
Im not familiar with the tar treatment. Can you guide me as to where to go for it?
http://www.ziebart.com/storeLocatorMain.htm
Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
Has anyone with an upgraded exhaust in a 6th Gen Maxima used sound deadening material in the trunk area or anywhere else to quiet it down some? I know they make material to do it but Im wondering if anyone has actually tried it to see if it works.
Does the new exhaust drone on the highway? If so, have you tried the resonator package and did it help?
A cheaper fix for the trunk area is to cut a piece of carpet padding to fit under your trunk mat. May not solve the problem to your satsfaction but does not cost much to try.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,353
From: Upland CA
The exhaust does drone at lower rpms when throttle is more than about halfway, typically uphill. I did try some carpet padding, but I may try more under the spare tire area. I have not received the resonator yet to test. I would prefer not to use it, but if it quiets the drone, I may. People seem very favorable to the sound for the most part, except the drone is a bit much for me.
Originally Posted by Tek-Niq

I've used a TON of their stuff...the best around, without a doubt.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,353
From: Upland CA
I bought some carpet padding for about 20 bucks for a 6'x9' roll. I used the Maxima carpet as a template and cut a piece of padding. Then I cut out the spare tire area, spread some carpet glue on the metal area and laid the padding. I then cut pieces of padding to fit into the spare tire well. I also laid some pieces over the spare tire once I installed that. Lastly, I cut out pieces to cover the area that goes up toward the trunk latch and spread more carpet glue. I will put more padding around the top of the rear wheel well as well as around the rear speakers on another day.
The results? Quite impressive. The drone is about 60% reduced and the car is overall quieter. Definitely worth it, in my opinion.
Here are some pics of before installation and during installation.


The results? Quite impressive. The drone is about 60% reduced and the car is overall quieter. Definitely worth it, in my opinion.
Here are some pics of before installation and during installation.


Originally Posted by Tek-Niq
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
I use the stereo volume control, works wonders...
Actually when cruising, the exhaust seems pretty quiet, to me when you punch it, the exhaust / cold air intake sounds loud, however the noise lessons when cruising and to me, very bearable...
Actually when cruising, the exhaust seems pretty quiet, to me when you punch it, the exhaust / cold air intake sounds loud, however the noise lessons when cruising and to me, very bearable...
With my 4th gen. Infiniti I-30t, I did all the doors, the trunk, and under the carpet with "Brown Bread." It's basically tar paper lined with foil. I added a hood liner, plus a layer of lead encased in foam up the firewall under the feet of the people in the front seat. Overall, it made a big difference in quieting the Greddy exhaust and road noise in general. (Road noise is bad on that car because it's dropped, has Eibach springs and Kone shocks. Stiff ride, but handles great.)
Now I also have a new 6th Gen. Maxima. The car is stock and very quiet, but the tinny sound of the doors sounds so cheap; it bugs me every time I open and close the doors. So, I bought some "Black Mat" on eBay, ($80 for 50 sq. ft., incl. shipping). It's just like Brown Bread, though a little thicker, I think. Last night I did the rear driver's side door. Installation was pretty easy. That naked sheet metal inside the door really bothers me. The Black Mat did take away that tinny sound from opening and closing, and you can definitely tell a difference when you knock on the metal from the outside. Having done only one door so far, however, I can't tell any difference on the quietness of the ride. I'll post pics of the installation process soon.
There's no Ziebart location near me, otherwise I would definitely pay $100 for a tar underspray.
Now I also have a new 6th Gen. Maxima. The car is stock and very quiet, but the tinny sound of the doors sounds so cheap; it bugs me every time I open and close the doors. So, I bought some "Black Mat" on eBay, ($80 for 50 sq. ft., incl. shipping). It's just like Brown Bread, though a little thicker, I think. Last night I did the rear driver's side door. Installation was pretty easy. That naked sheet metal inside the door really bothers me. The Black Mat did take away that tinny sound from opening and closing, and you can definitely tell a difference when you knock on the metal from the outside. Having done only one door so far, however, I can't tell any difference on the quietness of the ride. I'll post pics of the installation process soon.
There's no Ziebart location near me, otherwise I would definitely pay $100 for a tar underspray.
>HOw easy was it to take off door panels?
I only did a rear door, because it looked easier. Before you start, get a small phillips head screw driver, a 10mm socket on a screwdriver handle or socket extension (or just a really big phillips head screwdriver), a clean cloth, a small flat-head screwdriver, and something comfortable to kneel on.
Use the small flat-head to take out the small square plastic tab inside the door handle (about the size of a dime). Unscrew the 10mm/phillips head screw behind that tab.
Pop off the chrome/silver/whatever door strip that goes across the outside of the inside door handle. You might put the cloth over the flat-head and use that to start prying. The cloth is to help prevent scratches. (This part always scares me the first time. Start from the front of the door. Just pull it off. It's held on with plastic clips that give way once enough force is applied. Mine didn't break.)
Now pop out the power-window switch plate. (The rear clip is visible once the chrome strip is removed. I pushed in that clip and pushed up on it.) Disconnect the wire harness to the power-window switch plate. (Small screwdriver helps there, too.)
Remove the two 10mm/phillips head screws that are exposed in the door handle.
Now (really scary the first time), just grab the bottom of the door panel and pull out (pop, pop, pop), then up. Don't pull it too far off the door because the step-light wire and the door handle cables are still attached to the panel.
Now unscrew the door handle. (4 small phillips head screws.) The handle and plastic molding come off and are still attached to the cables, but a small rectangular piece of plastic trim is still on the door panel and falls off easily. Try not to step on it and break the tabs (like I did). Even if you do, the piece goes back into place without a problem.
Now you can disconnect the wire harness for the step-light. (Have a small flat head screw driver ready to push down on the clip.)
The interior of the door is covered in clear plastic held on with a tar-like glue. I pulled the left side away from the door, applied the sound deadener behind it, then put the plastic back on. Reverse every other instruction, and you're done. Took me about 45 minutes to do that one door, but it was my first time trying to remove a door on a 6th Gen., so I was going slow.
I only did a rear door, because it looked easier. Before you start, get a small phillips head screw driver, a 10mm socket on a screwdriver handle or socket extension (or just a really big phillips head screwdriver), a clean cloth, a small flat-head screwdriver, and something comfortable to kneel on.
Use the small flat-head to take out the small square plastic tab inside the door handle (about the size of a dime). Unscrew the 10mm/phillips head screw behind that tab.
Pop off the chrome/silver/whatever door strip that goes across the outside of the inside door handle. You might put the cloth over the flat-head and use that to start prying. The cloth is to help prevent scratches. (This part always scares me the first time. Start from the front of the door. Just pull it off. It's held on with plastic clips that give way once enough force is applied. Mine didn't break.)
Now pop out the power-window switch plate. (The rear clip is visible once the chrome strip is removed. I pushed in that clip and pushed up on it.) Disconnect the wire harness to the power-window switch plate. (Small screwdriver helps there, too.)
Remove the two 10mm/phillips head screws that are exposed in the door handle.
Now (really scary the first time), just grab the bottom of the door panel and pull out (pop, pop, pop), then up. Don't pull it too far off the door because the step-light wire and the door handle cables are still attached to the panel.
Now unscrew the door handle. (4 small phillips head screws.) The handle and plastic molding come off and are still attached to the cables, but a small rectangular piece of plastic trim is still on the door panel and falls off easily. Try not to step on it and break the tabs (like I did). Even if you do, the piece goes back into place without a problem.
Now you can disconnect the wire harness for the step-light. (Have a small flat head screw driver ready to push down on the clip.)
The interior of the door is covered in clear plastic held on with a tar-like glue. I pulled the left side away from the door, applied the sound deadener behind it, then put the plastic back on. Reverse every other instruction, and you're done. Took me about 45 minutes to do that one door, but it was my first time trying to remove a door on a 6th Gen., so I was going slow.
Yikes! Today I put the sound deadener in the other back door, then took off the interior panel on the front passenger door. Behind that front door panel is a solid wall of metal, unlike the back door. There is a big metal panel bolted on; it covers most of the inside of the door. It looks like the power window motor is bolted to it on the other side. There are no openings through which to put sound deadener on the interior of the exterior metal, which was my main goal. I unbolted most of the bolts on that big panel, just to take a peek behind it, but it was firmly in place, probably from an adhesive. I did put the sound deadener on that part of the metal, though that wasn't really my goal.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,353
From: Upland CA
I have been driving around for about a week now with the sound deadening in the trunk and I am very very pleased. I still have a few more panels to put the padding: under the rear deck where the rear speakers are, the trunk, and other places. I think the benefit far out weighs the $20 plus a few extra pounds. It smells really good too, hehe.
Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
I added more deadener to under the rear deck where speakers are and the trunk lid. Makes the car quieter and is well worth it.
I might do the same thing. How much material did you use and where did you order it from?
Thanks
Warren
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,353
From: Upland CA
I got it from Home Depot - $20 bucks for a big roll. I cut it to fit the pre-existing liner, so it is not visible. I used spray adhesive for carpet and padding I got from Pep boys. Basically I cut carpet to fit over bare metal and sprayed the metal with adhesive and laid the piece down. NOt rocket science. It really helps.
Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
I got it from Home Depot - $20 bucks for a big roll. I cut it to fit the pre-existing liner, so it is not visible. I used spray adhesive for carpet and padding I got from Pep boys. Basically I cut carpet to fit over bare metal and sprayed the metal with adhesive and laid the piece down. NOt rocket science. It really helps.
Thanks
Warren
Aftermarket exhausts muddy up my midbass, stock for me!

I've used a TON of their stuff...the best around, without a doubt.
he's not exaggerating. he's literaly used a TON of second skin stuff in his car!
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima

I've used a TON of their stuff...the best around, without a doubt.

How much does that Ziebart sound barrier stuff cost for a maxima?
I'm currently loading up my car with sound deadener. As soon as my server is back up, I'll post all the pics. So far i've done:
Trunk:
Damplifier
Sludge
Rear Deck:
Damplifier
Passenger seats:
Damplifier over the back
Driver side passenger door:
3 layers damplifier (outer inside wall, inner inside wall, outside.. if that makes sense)
Driverdoor:
working on the damplifier
I plan on doing pretty much everything that Metal did. Problem is that I've got 3 weeks before I drive cross country from my internship back to school... I doubt I'm going to finish it all in time. :-/
To do:
Damplifier
-Passeger side doors
-floor
-wheel wells
-dash (how the hell did you pull that off, Metal?)
Sludge
-All doors
-Rear deck
-wheel wells
Spectrum
-floor
-roof
I'm actually wondering if you could pull of putting sludge on the roof. Would it be too heavy? There appears to be more than enough room (i've got a sunroof).
All in all, it's costing me about $700 including shipping and all that jazz.
I'm currently loading up my car with sound deadener. As soon as my server is back up, I'll post all the pics. So far i've done:
Trunk:
Damplifier
Sludge
Rear Deck:
Damplifier
Passenger seats:
Damplifier over the back
Driver side passenger door:
3 layers damplifier (outer inside wall, inner inside wall, outside.. if that makes sense)
Driverdoor:
working on the damplifier
I plan on doing pretty much everything that Metal did. Problem is that I've got 3 weeks before I drive cross country from my internship back to school... I doubt I'm going to finish it all in time. :-/
To do:
Damplifier
-Passeger side doors
-floor
-wheel wells
-dash (how the hell did you pull that off, Metal?)
Sludge
-All doors
-Rear deck
-wheel wells
Spectrum
-floor
-roof
I'm actually wondering if you could pull of putting sludge on the roof. Would it be too heavy? There appears to be more than enough room (i've got a sunroof).
All in all, it's costing me about $700 including shipping and all that jazz.
Originally Posted by WxAxGxS
How much does that Ziebart sound barrier stuff cost for a maxima?
-dash (how the hell did you pull that off, Metal?)
-dash (how the hell did you pull that off, Metal?)
Originally Posted by WxAxGxS
Spectrum
-roof
-roof
Get some pics up, man!!!
OK, sludge on the roof. Ant gave me a 5gallon bucket instead of 4gall cuz i guess it's cheaper for him 
I've got a 2k2 Max. I tried getting the sucker off, but ended up doign nothing but breakign a piece of plastic in the dash where the head unit sits
I figure if I put in 2-3 hours a night after work and my next 3 weekends, I MIGHT be able to get it done.
Also, Metal, where did you get the asphalt spray? I haven't been able to find any. And what is taking so long with the wells? You're worrying me as that was the first part of the car you tackled!
And to stay more on topic: So far, I haven't noticed much improvement, but then again every single one of my pillars, panels, rear seats, etc are gone. The doors sure shut with a nice "thud" though

I've got a 2k2 Max. I tried getting the sucker off, but ended up doign nothing but breakign a piece of plastic in the dash where the head unit sits

I figure if I put in 2-3 hours a night after work and my next 3 weekends, I MIGHT be able to get it done.
Also, Metal, where did you get the asphalt spray? I haven't been able to find any. And what is taking so long with the wells? You're worrying me as that was the first part of the car you tackled!
And to stay more on topic: So far, I haven't noticed much improvement, but then again every single one of my pillars, panels, rear seats, etc are gone. The doors sure shut with a nice "thud" though
the only sound problem i have is in the rear, trunk maybe. theres a metal rattling sound every time my 12'' hits ...sounds almost like the license plate but the plate is on plastic backing and i held it and still heard the rattle.
ive also held the muffler so i have no idea what it could be. spare maybe? do you guys have it?
ive also held the muffler so i have no idea what it could be. spare maybe? do you guys have it?
Originally Posted by WxAxGxS
OK, sludge on the roof. Ant gave me a 5gallon bucket instead of 4gall cuz i guess it's cheaper for him

Originally Posted by WxAxGxS
I've got a 2k2 Max. I tried getting the sucker off, but ended up doign nothing but breakign a piece of plastic in the dash where the head unit sits 

I figure if I put in 2-3 hours a night after work and my next 3 weekends, I MIGHT be able to get it done.
Originally Posted by WxAxGxS
Also, Metal, where did you get the asphalt spray? I haven't been able to find any. And what is taking so long with the wells? You're worrying me as that was the first part of the car you tackled!
Pep Boys will have the generic asphalt spray.
Originally Posted by WxAxGxS
And to stay more on topic: So far, I haven't noticed much improvement, but then again every single one of my pillars, panels, rear seats, etc are gone. The doors sure shut with a nice "thud" though 

Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
Time, my friend. The wells are a good 4 - 6 hours each. You'll notice I only had pics of one wheel well...
Pep Boys will have the generic asphalt spray.
Yes, it's VERY loud without any of that stuff in there...keep it up! WHERE ARE THE PICS?!
Pep Boys will have the generic asphalt spray.Yes, it's VERY loud without any of that stuff in there...keep it up! WHERE ARE THE PICS?!

I guess i'll have to shop around. No Pep Boys in these parts (in Boise, ID for the next 4 weeks.. and the last 25.. ai... Then back to Rochester, NY for school, where it's too damn cold to do this... As opposed to my home home of Fargo, ND where it's been too cold to do this for the last 1,000,000 years).
As for pics... All my good webpages are maxed on space and my server at school is dead. I'll see what I can muster up!
Originally Posted by WxAxGxS
How much does that Ziebart sound barrier stuff cost for a maxima?
With the Ziebert, the $100 for the trunk doesn't sound bad. How much for the whole car. Does it make a big difference?
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