ho alt for 4th gen
11-08-2005, 01:36 AM
#1
ho alt for 4th gen
you guys think thisll work on a 99?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7958308970
It says 95-97, but what about the 98-99? I wonder.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7958308970
It says 95-97, but what about the 98-99? I wonder.
11-08-2005, 02:15 AM
#2
Back from Hibernation
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,100
I emailed him to see. His alts have a strong reputation as being solid. Would be nice if it was a fit. I'd rather have a lil more at idle and a lil less at high rpm's personally, but I think the higher amp rating (he highest number you can put down that an alt can reach) sell more.
Oh, and if it doesn't work out, I think Creative Designs from this forum has a lead on some alts made in Florida that fit. Maybe he'll chime in with another option.
Oh, and if it doesn't work out, I think Creative Designs from this forum has a lead on some alts made in Florida that fit. Maybe he'll chime in with another option.
11-08-2005, 08:10 AM
#3
Originally Posted by BBOYSTEVIE
Oh, and if it doesn't work out, I think Creative Designs from this forum has a lead on some alts made in Florida that fit. Maybe he'll chime in with another option.
http://www.canammotors.com/
11-08-2005, 08:34 AM
#4
can-am is the worst company i have ever dealt with for my alternator. i wish i would have just gone with stinger or ohio gen. my alternator blew about 6 times from can-am till art finally got the pulley size and rotor size correct. i will never buy another alt from them again. not to mention i had to take it out of my car and ship it to florida everytime it broke, and pay shipping there. have 2 weeks of downtime from my car each time because i refused to pay for next day air which was 85 bux. so it was about a 2 week downtime each time it happened. well good part is i can change my alternator faster than i can change my oil.
11-08-2005, 08:47 AM
#5
Check this web sit out www.excessiveamperage.com I received a price quote of $365 with a 6 month warrenty, for a 200 amp alternator that suppose to make full voltage at 800 to 900 rpms. He can powdercoat it also for an additional $25 Dollars.
11-08-2005, 08:52 AM
#6
lol...well, i hope that this ebay one that i linked above works, because the guy trafficjamz aka Dominick never replies to my questions. He just tells me that 'he has them in stock'..but i never see an exact auction for a 1999 alt, just the one above.
my other option was allterstart, i calleed and spoke to Bill, and he does have them, but only 180A and $423 shipped...less amperage for more money. Why can't these things just make sense.
my other option was allterstart, i calleed and spoke to Bill, and he does have them, but only 180A and $423 shipped...less amperage for more money. Why can't these things just make sense.
11-08-2005, 09:59 AM
#8
Originally Posted by CreativeDesignz
can-am is the worst company i have ever dealt with for my alternator. i wish i would have just gone with stinger or ohio gen. my alternator blew about 6 times from can-am till art finally got the pulley size and rotor size correct. i will never buy another alt from them again. not to mention i had to take it out of my car and ship it to florida everytime it broke, and pay shipping there. have 2 weeks of downtime from my car each time because i refused to pay for next day air which was 85 bux. so it was about a 2 week downtime each time it happened. well good part is i can change my alternator faster than i can change my oil.
11-08-2005, 10:13 AM
#9
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,674
A few people inquired with me about this and I was ready to set a GD for them from OG, but then the interests seemed to have diminished. If its still there my account with OG is good to go....
OG is the only one that Ive used.
OG is the only one that Ive used.
11-08-2005, 11:04 AM
#11
Originally Posted by Maximeltman
Nabu6, Are these good for daily driving i wonder, or just for competition..good site though
11-08-2005, 11:48 AM
#12
well from the excuses that art gave me they are not meant for racing applications by any means and i was over spinning the rotor causing it to rip apart. but as i recall deezo has the same alt as me and a 7200 rpm rev limit, and i still have stock rev limit. he has not reported any problems as far as i have seen. i tried putting a stock size pulley on there to slow it down but then i get very little charge at idle. oh well we will see how this holds up if not back to stock it is. i cant deal with 2 weeks of downtime because of someones bum products
11-08-2005, 12:22 PM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 16
The alternators will hold up if they are built right. They need to use an epoxy where the wires go into the slip ring on the rotor, they are bad about pulling loose. I do that with all of my alternators to prevent problems with the wires breaking loose.
11-08-2005, 02:19 PM
#14
Back from Hibernation
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,100
That is good to know about the Can Ams. I couldn't afford weeks of downtime because of my alternator, plus having to uninstall/reinstall it.
I woulnd't be ready for a high amp alt till the spring, but I'd have to consider jumping on it if the group deal price was good enough.
And "excessive", you excessive form excessive amperage? If so, I thought you'd chime in with info about a h.o. for a maxima?
I woulnd't be ready for a high amp alt till the spring, but I'd have to consider jumping on it if the group deal price was good enough.
And "excessive", you excessive form excessive amperage? If so, I thought you'd chime in with info about a h.o. for a maxima?
11-08-2005, 03:52 PM
#17
Originally Posted by BBOYSTEVIE
And "excessive", you excessive form excessive amperage? If so, I thought you'd chime in with info about a h.o. for a maxima?
11-09-2005, 07:38 AM
#20
What is the warranty on a Can Am anyways? I have one, and I think it may have been causing all of my electrical problems. I'm wondering if the voltage regulator is shot, but the guys at Can Am swear that it couldn't be the problem. And then 2 days ago, at full throttle, near redline, my car shut down and then restarted. Turns out my battery fuse blew and there's a short in the system somewhere. But since the battery fuse blew and none of the other smaller fuses, it looks like the only thing it could be is the alternator or wiring from the Alt. I've already checked all the wiring and now shorts, so I'm wondering if it is the alternator.
And you're right, the Can Am guys are very slack on the customer service. Their only answer is "if you wired it right, it should work fine". Well, it was wired right, and it did charge the car, but I'm pretty sure it also drained my battery due to the voltage regulator not shutting off (we found a draw on that circuit, but it wasn't in the wiring so I'm thinking it's the regulator itself).
BTW, according to Art, Can Am makes Stinger's alternators, so I don't think they're a good choice either.
Finally, did you have trouble getting your alternator in? Mine barely fit and I can't use 2 out of the 3 bolts. The mounting points don't look too much like the stock alternator. And upon comparison, it looks more like the alternator on my friend's Taurus SHO than it does the Maxima's. The part number shows it is for a Maxima, but it's curious.
And you're right, the Can Am guys are very slack on the customer service. Their only answer is "if you wired it right, it should work fine". Well, it was wired right, and it did charge the car, but I'm pretty sure it also drained my battery due to the voltage regulator not shutting off (we found a draw on that circuit, but it wasn't in the wiring so I'm thinking it's the regulator itself).
BTW, according to Art, Can Am makes Stinger's alternators, so I don't think they're a good choice either.
Finally, did you have trouble getting your alternator in? Mine barely fit and I can't use 2 out of the 3 bolts. The mounting points don't look too much like the stock alternator. And upon comparison, it looks more like the alternator on my friend's Taurus SHO than it does the Maxima's. The part number shows it is for a Maxima, but it's curious.
Originally Posted by CreativeDesignz
well after me repeatedly telling art that the pulleys were too small the leads into the rotor are tack welded and now (west systemed) epoxied and balanced. it should be good to go now
11-09-2005, 07:43 AM
#21
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 16
Originally Posted by BBOYSTEVIE
That is good to know about the Can Ams. I couldn't afford weeks of downtime because of my alternator, plus having to uninstall/reinstall it.
I woulnd't be ready for a high amp alt till the spring, but I'd have to consider jumping on it if the group deal price was good enough.
And "excessive", you excessive form excessive amperage? If so, I thought you'd chime in with info about a h.o. for a maxima?
I woulnd't be ready for a high amp alt till the spring, but I'd have to consider jumping on it if the group deal price was good enough.
And "excessive", you excessive form excessive amperage? If so, I thought you'd chime in with info about a h.o. for a maxima?
Yeah, this is Nathan from Excessive Amperage.
11-09-2005, 08:50 AM
#23
can-am alternators are pretty much ford alternators. my top mounting hole does not work so i only have the bottom bolt holding it on and i am in the process of making a bracket. art helped me out a lot but you would think after the alternator blowing up 6 times that he would pay for next day shipping or something. i did have a little trouble getting that large bolt through the bottom so i took my dremel and a grinding stone a grinded a small put off the inside. then where i used 0 guage wire for my power wire there was all these nubs and one of them actually dug through the power wire so i had to grind that off too because it blew a 200 amp fuse with that! so all in all i have come to realize that this is a ford alternator. if it blows up again and i dont get a refund i will be making a phone call to the BBB
11-09-2005, 09:09 AM
#24
I just spoke to Art, and he is pretty helpful, but that doesn't help the situation much. He's saying that my blown battery fuse may be the alternator power wire grounding out on the case. So I guess I'll find out tonight when I pull it. At least everything is still under warranty just in case.
Originally Posted by CreativeDesignz
can-am alternators are pretty much ford alternators. my top mounting hole does not work so i only have the bottom bolt holding it on and i am in the process of making a bracket. art helped me out a lot but you would think after the alternator blowing up 6 times that he would pay for next day shipping or something. i did have a little trouble getting that large bolt through the bottom so i took my dremel and a grinding stone a grinded a small put off the inside. then where i used 0 guage wire for my power wire there was all these nubs and one of them actually dug through the power wire so i had to grind that off too because it blew a 200 amp fuse with that! so all in all i have come to realize that this is a ford alternator. if it blows up again and i dont get a refund i will be making a phone call to the BBB
11-09-2005, 09:33 AM
#25
yea its probably gorunding out on the case...i had the same problem. i probably had just about every problem possible with this alternator. u will see the nub i am talking about that u have to grind off. if thats where its grounding out. the good part is that i can change my alt faster than i can change oil 
11-10-2005, 06:13 AM
#29
if my can-am takes a dump AGAIN i will probably be in touch with you. what would the output be at idle? the can am has a super small pulley on it to boost up idle charge. i tried to put on a factory size pulley to slow down the internals a little but i get no charge below 1300 rpm so i had to switch back to the small one.
11-10-2005, 08:35 AM
#30
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 16
Originally Posted by CreativeDesignz
if my can-am takes a dump AGAIN i will probably be in touch with you. what would the output be at idle? the can am has a super small pulley on it to boost up idle charge. i tried to put on a factory size pulley to slow down the internals a little but i get no charge below 1300 rpm so i had to switch back to the small one.
11-10-2005, 12:33 PM
#31
Originally Posted by Excessive !
By the way, I can custom build the factory style alternators to 200 amps - they will bolt on with no mods just like the factory alternator too.
11-10-2005, 02:39 PM
#32
Originally Posted by Excessive !
You should get between 80-100 amps
11-12-2005, 08:20 AM
#33
Hey Creative, sorry to keep bothering you with this, but since you're very familiar with the Can Am, I have a final question.
You were right, the wire did ground out on that stupid nub next to the post, it looks like it just worked it's way through the insulation and blew out (it actually blew the wire in half, I have two burned ends).
I was speaking to Art the other day, and he mentioned that my voltage drain problems were probably because I had the signal wires mixed up. ie, the yellow wire should go to the constant 12V, and the other green wire to the keyed ignition. Made sense at the time, but now looking at it, I'm confused again. I only have 1 yellow wire. On the Can Am plug w/ 3 wires, 1 went to the post (had a ring terminal), the other is run back into the alternator (it came that way), and finally the yellow one is the only one that I can connect to the stock signal wiring. So did I get the wrong alternator harness from them? Or am I just crazy?
You were right, the wire did ground out on that stupid nub next to the post, it looks like it just worked it's way through the insulation and blew out (it actually blew the wire in half, I have two burned ends).
I was speaking to Art the other day, and he mentioned that my voltage drain problems were probably because I had the signal wires mixed up. ie, the yellow wire should go to the constant 12V, and the other green wire to the keyed ignition. Made sense at the time, but now looking at it, I'm confused again. I only have 1 yellow wire. On the Can Am plug w/ 3 wires, 1 went to the post (had a ring terminal), the other is run back into the alternator (it came that way), and finally the yellow one is the only one that I can connect to the stock signal wiring. So did I get the wrong alternator harness from them? Or am I just crazy?
11-12-2005, 08:28 AM
#34
ok theres one wire on the harness with a plug that goes right into the alternator again. theres a second wire with a ring terminal which goes on the positive post. i actually took a small gold plated washer and put it on before i put anything on cause this alternator is a piece of junk and is totally not made for our cars. the third wire i have is blue, its called a f light wire or something. i ran that through my firewall to a true ignition source, ie, my ignition harness. i just t taped it right in there. tell art his alternators suck and that everyone on the org complains about them. oh yea and if ur rotor leads arent epoxied u might as well send it back becuase its going to blow apart eventually if u go anywhere remotely close to 6200 rpm
11-12-2005, 08:43 AM
#35
So basically, you didn't use the wires off of our stock alternator harness? Just run the free wire I have to an ignition source and that's it? BTW, how do I check the rotor leads? Alternator is out, I might as well take a closer look at it.
Originally Posted by CreativeDesignz
ok theres one wire on the harness with a plug that goes right into the alternator again. theres a second wire with a ring terminal which goes on the positive post. i actually took a small gold plated washer and put it on before i put anything on cause this alternator is a piece of junk and is totally not made for our cars. the third wire i have is blue, its called a f light wire or something. i ran that through my firewall to a true ignition source, ie, my ignition harness. i just t taped it right in there. tell art his alternators suck and that everyone on the org complains about them. oh yea and if ur rotor leads arent epoxied u might as well send it back becuase its going to blow apart eventually if u go anywhere remotely close to 6200 rpm
11-12-2005, 01:17 PM
#36
u need to take the regulator off the side its 2 or 4 torx i dont remeber. i ran everything seperately i have 0 guage from the alt to the battery and 0 guage from alt to chassis ground. i shrink wrapped all the factory wiring in case i put the stocker back in. also i used a drive belt for the alternator that is one size smaller than stock, with the stock size pulley the tensioner was barely doing anything.
11-14-2005, 10:11 AM
#39
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 16
Originally Posted by CreativeDesignz
right now im getting about 150 at idle so im very pleased with that. i also had to go one size smaller with the belt, which i have to pry onto the pulleys with a screw driver. as soon as they get onto the ribs it gets looser so i can still use my tensioner.
11-14-2005, 11:02 AM
#40
Originally Posted by Maximeltman
is anybody interested in going with a GD from excessive? 365 is a pretty good price, but that price could go lower he said if there was a GD?