Alright, I have some random cash laying around, and I'll be purchasing a toggle switch, two 6" interior neons, and two 3" interior neons. The 6" will go up front, the 3" will go in the back under the front seats. The switch will go in my ashtray (I'm cutting a hole).

I have questions, though. For example...how can I hide the wiring to the rear lights? I'd like to hide it in the armest console, like underneath where the carpet is. What can I remove/take out to get access to that space?

 

Not sure about how to get access to that space on a 4th Gen, but alternatively, you can run the wiring along the door sill molding (where you'd run audio wiring). Then snake it over to the opening in the carpet under the seat (where the power seat wiring comes up to the bottom of the seat).

 

That's a pretty good idea. But for simplicity and wire length sake, I'd like to keep it "central."

 

Take the center console out. Remove the shifter trim, the ash tray, and four screws.

 

Ok. I know how to take all of the center console out, just not the area that includes cupholders, armrest, etc. I've taken the other section out where the headunit, climate control, etc. is...because I've painted it. That's where I'm hiding the rest of the wiring. I need to know how to get access to the area under the armest and what not.

Also...is 18-guage wire gonna work for me? I have like 50 ft. of it on a spool laying around that I used for my foglight rewire. The wiring that comes with the lights looks to be about the same size, or atleast that's how I remember it when I saw them in my friend's car. (Haven't bought my own lights yet)

 

Yup, take ths shifter trim out. Then take the ash tray out. Then to remove the whole arm rest/cup holder unit take out two screws right near where the ash tray was. There will also be two screws in the back of it right over the hump. Push the driver and passenger seats forward.

 

Hmm...that statement confuses me. If I push the seats forward, I'll see 2 screws. Is that what you're trying to say?

 

Correct.......

 

Ok, good. Now I have everything sorted out as far as where I'm going to run the wiring. I decided I'll hide the front light wires behind the center console in that big huge empty space () and I'll run the wires out the sides where the ECU/foot air vents are and up to the lights, keeping them as out-of-view as possible.

Another question though...does the cigarette lighter have it's own ground wire I can tap into? I'd like to keep this as simple as possible and just have the switch's power and ground tap directly into the cig. lighter and not have to worry about finding my own ground. I'm gonna do a 4-2-1 wire setup for the lights into the switch. They'll all feed off this one source and ground (which the switch will be connected to), whatever that ground may end up being.

 

Don't everyone reply at once...

 

The cigarette lighter should have its own ground. However, in 5th gens, the cigarette lighter only works with the key in acc or ignition. So if you plan on having these lights turn on with your other lights when you unlock the car, open a door, etc., you shouldn't get your power from the cigarette lighter (unless 4th gens are different).

A few months ago, I did something similar to this, but with small interior accessory lights rather than neons. I got four lights--one in each front footwell and one under each front seat. I tapped into the ground on the dome lamp and got my +12V source from a 24-hour wire near the fuse box. Whenever the dome lamp is manually turned on or automatically goes on with doors being opened, the ground is connected and my floor lights turn on as well. Really makes the inside look much nicer with all the added light. I also have a relay wired up to the map lights, so they, too, come on with the dome lamp. (But I'm not going to get into how to wire for that, because my dad did the relay wiring and I wasn't paying attention.)

-Brian

 

Well I'm wiring them to a switch, I don't want them to come on with the other lights. So getting power from the cig. lighter is not going to be a problem.

 

Yes, the Cig Lighter has a Ground. It will be the black wire. It only supplies power when the key is in the ignition.

 

Well I just got back from the store, I was out buying everything. Those tubes are more expensive than I remember, so I only got the front ones for now. I think I got the wrong kind of switch, though I got a simple on/off toggle switch. Can I make that work?

Here's my goal: to have the lights come on when I flip the switch to on. Can I accomplish that with a simple 2-prong on/off switch? (As in just one prong for power, just one for ground). How would I wire it to accomplish this? I guess I never thought about how I was gonna wire stuff til now...

 

the switch isn't power and ground. the switch is a pass throught ype of application.

Your power goes to 1 prong on the switch, and the other prong connects to the + of you neon. Then you just ground the neg. the switch will cut the power when off and keep a flow when on. It must be spliced in the power wire only.

 

Ahh I see! So then about the negative...could I just take the negative from the neons and splice it into the neg. for the cig. lighter? I think I get this now...thanks for explaining it.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=376013

 

Interesting. Still need an answer to my last question, guys!

 

Hey, man. I am running 8 CCFLs and about 20 LEDs froma centralized power source...I will get back to you later on today, I have a very clean and simple apporoach using an fuse-integrated PCB board

 

Some quick shots...

 

Alright, here is my $0.02 on the matter. For powering the lights, a fuseblock is highly recommended. Tap a 10AWG wire to the (+) of the battery terminal, then run to the following fuseblock...



This fuseblock will allow you to power 9 other devices off of it. You will need to purchase fuses for each of the devices you are going to power. Ok, now you have your power source for ALL of your lights, without even having to tap into OEM lights.

I would recommend putting this in the glovebox, although putting it under a seat is also a viable recommendation.

Now each of the inverters will need to be ground. I would put the inverter close to where the device will be mounted. Simply punch a hole into the chassis using a small self-tapping screw.



This gives you the liberty of placing the ground wherever you see fit. Punch the hole, sand a small ptach away using some 60-grit sand paper, then attach a ring terminal to the inverter ground, and screw it all together.

Oh, and 18AWG will be fine for powering the inverters.

This takes care of your power, ground, and location.

Hope this helps!!!

 

ya for your ground...dont go to the cig lighter. You can put the neg wire to a bolt in your chasis. It will be much more conveniant this way. I guess you can splice into the cig...but if you dont have to..why do it?

i dont think he is planning on lighting up the moon here metal so the power source that you are using may not be needed to run his couple of lights.

I suggest you take his advice and get wire from the battery with an inline fuse. Run it into your car and then split it into 4. put the switch in the main wire before it splits into 4 that way your 1 switch controls all 4 lights. then like i said...take the negs of the lights and connect them to any bolt that goes into the chasis of your car. or like metal said get a tappering screw and create your own. this will be a much better ans safer way to power your lights.

 

True...but the fuseblock is only $4.50 and gives you huge flexibility to add on later if desired.

 

touche

 

Good link metal maxima, i've been looking for an inexpensive fuse block for my future lighting project!!

 

Well for now I'm just putting in two small 3" lights up front. Who knows if I'll get around to adding the ones in the back. If I do, I may upgrade. Until then, I know just about jack squat about electrical work so the simple approach will be much better for me. Thanks for answering all my questions, guys. I guess I'll be grounding to somewhere else rather than tapping the neg. wire on the cig. lighter. I'll be using the cig. lighter for power, though, so I will have to tap it's positive wire.

 

not a gripe but i would check to c if the 3inchers put out enough light for the look you are going for. i put 12in tubes (c link http://www.clearcutaudio.com/infinitiint.htm ) in my 4 foot wells...i didnt think the 9's cut it. good luck with the project

 

And I don't know why you are getting neons...CCFLs are superior in every way...including price. Just my $0.02

 

Well everyone posted all that AFTER I bought them and hacked up the wiring to do the install.

Anyway, I have some questions. I'm in the middle of the install and have everything torn apart. I have the power going to the switch...then going to the light, yadda yadda. I know I have power because I tried plugging stuff into the cig. lighter and it the stuff I've plugged in is getting power. I need somewhere good to ground the light, though. Can any of you suggest a good place in the driver's side footwell or beneath the center console to ground it?

If not, I'm going to have to resort to using the neg. wire from this little plug I found taped to the wiring of the cig. lighter. It's inside the same black tape as the wiring for the cig. lighter, but it leads to a plug that isn't plugged into anything. It was just taped in place. It's not the light for the ash tray, and it's not going to the cig. lighter...so I have no idea what it is. Do any of you? Could you tell me which wire might be the neg. one? (They're both red...one has a blue stripe and the other has a different color stripe, don't remember what color though)

Help is appreciated!

 

This thread + me =

 

Nevermind. I ended up using that mystery plug as my ground, and it worked. I got the light working. However now there's a loose connection SOMEWHERE in the 502985296 connections I made, and I can't seem to figure out which one it is

 

I've heard that cathodes are fragile. Although what's the difference between CCFL and neons?

 

CCFLS

(1) Cheaper
(2) Less current draw
(3) Unaffected by ambient temperature
(4) Brighter...ALOT F'N BRIGHTER
(5) A bit more fragile, yes, but I have dealt extensivley with them with 0 defects

 

Since you have experience with these, would you say that 12" CCFLs are too bright (and distracting) to install in the front footwells and under the back of the front seats? If so, what size might you recommend? Thanks.

 

Well, the thing is, I like it bright. I have 12" under the dash, two 6" under each seat, and a 12" in each door side pocket. I don't think it's too bright because I adjusted the mounting depth. My suggestion would be to buy a set (it's only $10) and see how you like it. I don't think it's distracting, but that's just me.

 

Good point. w00t for ebay!

 

Here's better...

http://www.elwirecheap.com/noname15.html

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/12-DUAL-GREEN-CC...QQcmdZViewItem

I was thinking green would match the color of the clock, auto climate control, etc.

 

i actually just bought red ones from this guy because i've been thinking...and yes..i'm going to put them under the front seats so that there is some shine in both the front and the back.

 

So I said screw it and I'm getting rid of all the wiring I did and hopefully getting the ability to use my 12v outlet back (I messed something up with that connection, too). I'll have my friend wire everything for me over Christmas break