AMP is fixed, and now works, new thread for a potential problem.
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AMP is fixed, and now works, new thread for a potential problem.
This is a follow up on my previous thread that has now been buried:
Does anyone have a site for rebuilding an amp?. I've been hella busy at school the past two weeks, and this is the first time I've been able to post about the success. Basically, that little resistor being burnt out caused big problems in my 1000w Kenwood 2 channel amp that I bought off ebay, and never worked. We repaired some of the board, and replaced the resistor with what we believe to be the correct resistor, and the amp pushed my sub. I was so excited when I got home and was able to test her out.
I started by leaving the cover off, and playing the amp at a decent volume for about 20 minutes straight, looking for color changes, smoke, anything, and sniffing for any kind of burning smell. This test was with the amplifier bass boost setting at +0 dB, and only running off 1 channel IIRC, wiring my DVC Rockford Fosgate Punch at 8 ohms (in series). There were no smells, no discolorations, and the bass sounded good, so I removed it and put the cover back on.
The next day, when re-installed my amp, I bridged the sub across the two channels, and turned up the bass boost so that it read +12 dB. I also did that from my headunit, so both my amp and headunit said the bass boost was at +12 dB. I was driving around for maybe 20 minutes enjoying my newfound bass, with my windows open. As I was on this 4 lane road, I started smelling a burning smell. I cut over, got into a parking lot, popped both my trunk and hood, and ripped the fuse. The smell was really noticable in the passenger compartment, but IIRC, when I opened my trunk, I really couldn't smell it that badly. I remember this smell when trying to hood this amp up BEFORE we fixed the resistor.
Since this happened, the fuse has been pulled on the amp. I can't really work on it in my college's parking lot, we have a lot of break-ins. This is what I think the problem may be:
1. The 8ga. wiring that I'm using for the power/ground wires are heating up. (I'm hoping this is it, as I was going to change these out soon) When I tested the amp, it was being used in a less "strained" state compared to when I was driving (for lack of better word). The sub was bridged across the two channels, instead of just one. The bass boost was turned up as well. And I was listening to my music at a higher volume.
2. There is a place on the amp that accepts a ground next to the power wire, but there is also a ground on the other side. This one is actually a screw, and I had not had this one grounded. Would this cause the problem that I had?
3. Make suggestions please.
Thanks,
Lou
It was just nice seeing this amp actually push this sub, it was such an improvement from my crappy amp that I had been using.
Does anyone have a site for rebuilding an amp?. I've been hella busy at school the past two weeks, and this is the first time I've been able to post about the success. Basically, that little resistor being burnt out caused big problems in my 1000w Kenwood 2 channel amp that I bought off ebay, and never worked. We repaired some of the board, and replaced the resistor with what we believe to be the correct resistor, and the amp pushed my sub. I was so excited when I got home and was able to test her out.
I started by leaving the cover off, and playing the amp at a decent volume for about 20 minutes straight, looking for color changes, smoke, anything, and sniffing for any kind of burning smell. This test was with the amplifier bass boost setting at +0 dB, and only running off 1 channel IIRC, wiring my DVC Rockford Fosgate Punch at 8 ohms (in series). There were no smells, no discolorations, and the bass sounded good, so I removed it and put the cover back on.
The next day, when re-installed my amp, I bridged the sub across the two channels, and turned up the bass boost so that it read +12 dB. I also did that from my headunit, so both my amp and headunit said the bass boost was at +12 dB. I was driving around for maybe 20 minutes enjoying my newfound bass, with my windows open. As I was on this 4 lane road, I started smelling a burning smell. I cut over, got into a parking lot, popped both my trunk and hood, and ripped the fuse. The smell was really noticable in the passenger compartment, but IIRC, when I opened my trunk, I really couldn't smell it that badly. I remember this smell when trying to hood this amp up BEFORE we fixed the resistor.
Since this happened, the fuse has been pulled on the amp. I can't really work on it in my college's parking lot, we have a lot of break-ins. This is what I think the problem may be:
1. The 8ga. wiring that I'm using for the power/ground wires are heating up. (I'm hoping this is it, as I was going to change these out soon) When I tested the amp, it was being used in a less "strained" state compared to when I was driving (for lack of better word). The sub was bridged across the two channels, instead of just one. The bass boost was turned up as well. And I was listening to my music at a higher volume.
2. There is a place on the amp that accepts a ground next to the power wire, but there is also a ground on the other side. This one is actually a screw, and I had not had this one grounded. Would this cause the problem that I had?
3. Make suggestions please.
Thanks,
Lou
It was just nice seeing this amp actually push this sub, it was such an improvement from my crappy amp that I had been using.
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Originally Posted by slickrick
wait so you messed up the amp with BB on +12...hmm.
The sub was bridged over the two channels versus just running off the first channel; BB was switched to +12; the volume was also turned up over what it was when testing; the cover for the amp was reinstalled; etc.
you're proviing my point...I can guarantee anyone on this board who has a quality system never uses BB. it is what causes malfunctioning to occur and is just bad in general. the other stuff you mentioned (besides the cover) could be at fault, but the BB IMO is what caused the downfall.
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Originally Posted by slickrick
you're proviing my point...I can guarantee anyone on this board who has a quality system never uses BB. it is what causes malfunctioning to occur and is just bad in general. the other stuff you mentioned (besides the cover) could be at fault, but the BB IMO is what caused the downfall.
(I didn't see the sarcasm/whatever in your first post, I don't know a whole lot about audio, but I'm learning.)
So: should/can I use BB from my headunit, and just stay away from the BB on my amp, or should I steer clear from both?
steer clear of both. lol sorry about the sarcasm...yeah turn off all BB on the radio and the amp. running 4 gauge would help also assuming the amp puts out 500 watts rms. also only play it at the volume you will listen to.
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Originally Posted by slickrick
steer clear of both. lol sorry about the sarcasm...yeah turn off all BB on the radio and the amp. running 4 gauge would help also assuming the amp puts out 500 watts rms. also only play it at the volume you will listen to.
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And another thing - is it a good idea to hook each coil to one channel of the amp? I was told to do this in my other thread. Since my sub is a 4 ohm, DVC sub, would running 1 coil/channel create a 4 ohm setup, or something different?
Originally Posted by BigLou93SE
And another thing - is it a good idea to hook each coil to one channel of the amp? I was told to do this in my other thread. Since my sub is a 4 ohm, DVC sub, would running 1 coil/channel create a 4 ohm setup, or something different?

dukes, DOnt do this unless you have a method to ensure that you have the exact same voltage coming out of each channel of the amp. IE if the amp isnt capable of master slave config id call it a day and just bridge them on the one channel. I WOULD NOT USE ONE CHANNEL PER COIL>
IE with your ground you have an equal wire to the power wire correct? IE the ground should be right next to the power and remote, your first one confused the matter a little. The one on the other side is more than likely a signal ground for your rcas.
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Originally Posted by Cant_Get_Ryte
you again 
dukes, DOnt do this unless you have a method to ensure that you have the exact same voltage coming out of each channel of the amp. IE if the amp isnt capable of master slave config id call it a day and just bridge them on the one channel. I WOULD NOT USE ONE CHANNEL PER COIL>
IE with your ground you have an equal wire to the power wire correct? IE the ground should be right next to the power and remote, your first one confused the matter a little. The one on the other side is more than likely a signal ground for your rcas.

dukes, DOnt do this unless you have a method to ensure that you have the exact same voltage coming out of each channel of the amp. IE if the amp isnt capable of master slave config id call it a day and just bridge them on the one channel. I WOULD NOT USE ONE CHANNEL PER COIL>
IE with your ground you have an equal wire to the power wire correct? IE the ground should be right next to the power and remote, your first one confused the matter a little. The one on the other side is more than likely a signal ground for your rcas.
Yes, I have equal power/ground wires, but I wanted to ensure that I didn't need to ground the other side (what you say is the signal ground).
I'm just glad that this thing pushes my sub, it's nice knowing I did fix it.
Thanks for your help, I'm glad this paid off.
I'll keep it bridged as is right now then -- + on channel 1, - on channel two running the sub at an 8 ohm setup. Hopefully this smell won't come back.
let me get this right. You have
Channel 1
To Voice Coil 1
and
CHannel 2
to voice coil 2?
If so thats more than likely your problem.
You should bridge the woofer to an 8 ohm load
VC1+ and VC2- tied together
VC1- to channel 1- (Or whatever is the bridged method for the amp)
VC2+ to channel 2+ (Or whatever is the bridged method for the amp)
as well set your gain properly. Start with the gain ALL the way down, all bass boost on the amp neutralized. Set eh volume at the max that you will listen to it in the car IE at the headunit. Turn it up at the amp until you are either satisfied or its distorting. Turn it down a little and live la vida loca...
congrats on the cheap fix bro.
Channel 1
To Voice Coil 1
and
CHannel 2
to voice coil 2?
If so thats more than likely your problem.
You should bridge the woofer to an 8 ohm load
VC1+ and VC2- tied together
VC1- to channel 1- (Or whatever is the bridged method for the amp)
VC2+ to channel 2+ (Or whatever is the bridged method for the amp)
as well set your gain properly. Start with the gain ALL the way down, all bass boost on the amp neutralized. Set eh volume at the max that you will listen to it in the car IE at the headunit. Turn it up at the amp until you are either satisfied or its distorting. Turn it down a little and live la vida loca...
congrats on the cheap fix bro.
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Originally Posted by Cant_Get_Ryte
congrats on the cheap fix bro.
Thanks manNo - I was wondering if I should wire my sub up this way - that's how Nismos14 told me to do it in my previous thread, and since I've been advised to turn my BB off, I was looking into bringing a little more power to the sub.
The way I have it wired now (except it is off until I get home again), is exactly how you say to, wiring to the pos of channel 1, and the neg of channel 2, and wiring the sub to run in series - 8 ohm. Do you think that wiring it on one channel at a 2 ohm, parallel wiring setup will produce more power?
I'll also set the gain better, I had fiddled with it a little bit but didn't get into depth with it.
Again, thanks for the help, I definately learned a lot, and am glad that I didn't waste that money on this amp without ever hearing it power my sub. Next up is some 4 ga. wiring.
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Originally Posted by 1996blackmax
Why not get a new amp and stop the worrying
. Besides the smell of a burned out amp can stay in your car for a while. Trust me on this
.
. Besides the smell of a burned out amp can stay in your car for a while. Trust me on this
.
Honestly, I know bb adds distortion etc etc. but I use it now in my current setup, and have used it in all my previous setups, without problems.
I think the main problem your having here is the amp itself. Your starting off with a problematic amp to begin with, having repaired it may only be masking a larger problem with the board. I would suggest saving the money and possibly purchasing a new amp. You did a great job fixing it and all, but it's time to let go and purchase something better.
Of course it's not going to hurt experimenting a bit. On my amp (Arc Audio 4150XXK) I have the bb up about 1/3 of the way. The sub level on my HU is at -15. Obviously you having yours up at +12 and +12 is a little much. I would lower one or the other. If you want the bass emphasis to be in the low end which the BB most likely provides, I would leave that switched to +12. If you want a more balanced sound with a larger spectrum of bass keep the bass on the HU up a bit higher, I still wouldn't have it at +12 (but on the amp I believe your working with a fixed 12 db boost, not a variable one).
As far as wiring since you have a dual 4 ohm I have to agree with Doug. Wire it bridged to the amp with the coils wired in series.
I think the main problem your having here is the amp itself. Your starting off with a problematic amp to begin with, having repaired it may only be masking a larger problem with the board. I would suggest saving the money and possibly purchasing a new amp. You did a great job fixing it and all, but it's time to let go and purchase something better.
Of course it's not going to hurt experimenting a bit. On my amp (Arc Audio 4150XXK) I have the bb up about 1/3 of the way. The sub level on my HU is at -15. Obviously you having yours up at +12 and +12 is a little much. I would lower one or the other. If you want the bass emphasis to be in the low end which the BB most likely provides, I would leave that switched to +12. If you want a more balanced sound with a larger spectrum of bass keep the bass on the HU up a bit higher, I still wouldn't have it at +12 (but on the amp I believe your working with a fixed 12 db boost, not a variable one).
As far as wiring since you have a dual 4 ohm I have to agree with Doug. Wire it bridged to the amp with the coils wired in series.
Originally Posted by nismos14
Honestly, I know bb adds distortion etc etc. but I use it now in my current setup, and have used it in all my previous setups, without problems.
I think the main problem your having here is the amp itself. Your starting off with a problematic amp to begin with, having repaired it may only be masking a larger problem with the board. I would suggest saving the money and possibly purchasing a new amp. You did a great job fixing it and all, but it's time to let go and purchase something better.
Of course it's not going to hurt experimenting a bit. On my amp (Arc Audio 4150XXK) I have the bb up about 1/3 of the way. The sub level on my HU is at -15. Obviously you having yours up at +12 and +12 is a little much. I would lower one or the other. If you want the bass emphasis to be in the low end which the BB most likely provides, I would leave that switched to +12. If you want a more balanced sound with a larger spectrum of bass keep the bass on the HU up a bit higher, I still wouldn't have it at +12 (but on the amp I believe your working with a fixed 12 db boost, not a variable one).
As far as wiring since you have a dual 4 ohm I have to agree with Doug. Wire it bridged to the amp with the coils wired in series.
I think the main problem your having here is the amp itself. Your starting off with a problematic amp to begin with, having repaired it may only be masking a larger problem with the board. I would suggest saving the money and possibly purchasing a new amp. You did a great job fixing it and all, but it's time to let go and purchase something better.
Of course it's not going to hurt experimenting a bit. On my amp (Arc Audio 4150XXK) I have the bb up about 1/3 of the way. The sub level on my HU is at -15. Obviously you having yours up at +12 and +12 is a little much. I would lower one or the other. If you want the bass emphasis to be in the low end which the BB most likely provides, I would leave that switched to +12. If you want a more balanced sound with a larger spectrum of bass keep the bass on the HU up a bit higher, I still wouldn't have it at +12 (but on the amp I believe your working with a fixed 12 db boost, not a variable one).
As far as wiring since you have a dual 4 ohm I have to agree with Doug. Wire it bridged to the amp with the coils wired in series.
Thats cause your tone deaf.
Loose the BB please.....
Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
Nah, Ill think about the second part, but for now...just too bumpy.
I hear ya, I don't think even I'd want to have them on there. Did you see the amount of potholes that popped up after the blizzard, jeez!
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