For running a sealed enclosure, is the most important parameter that it be sealed and simply have x.x cuft? Or will the geometry of the box play a role in its response?

 

As long as the box is solid/well braced and has the right airspace you're OK. Geometry shouldn't matter.

 

otherwise all those custom boxes would prolly sound like poo.

though i've never heard one.. id like to

 

ya unless you plan on running your sub above 200hz you are fine. standing waves are not an issue with a typical car audio install.

 

Rigidity to eliminate flexing and being properly sealed are key. A sealed enclosure application that leaks sounds like ***. An enclosure that's slightly too large for your application can easily be fixed by adding extra volume inside the box by gluing some MDF scraps inside to decrease internal volume or better yet, you can add more bracing to displace internal volume.

 

how many subs?

generally the sub just needs the airspace, but angling can play into it when its completed. More than a single sub i would start worrying about angling, but a single sub setup youll be fine.

 

Or, if it's a multiple sub set up, just make sure each enclosure is sealed off from the one next to it.

 

I'll agree with the above... except to add that extreme geometries will have an effect. By "extreme", I mean two cubic feet with two 0.95-cubic ft boxes attached by a 0.1-cubic foot channel (think like a dumbell shape). Don't laugh, I've seen it attempted. When space gets tight, people will weasel their boxes along any open path to get that magic volume. Once you go down that road, the wave interference totally destroys any advantage from going with that specific volume. Just an FYI...

 

I would be looking into placing two subs into the wheelwell. I don't want to have to FG the bish, but whatever may come...

 

ugh oh...what 2 subs? I assume 8's or 10's?

 

2 x Alumapro Alchemy RX...gotta see it I can even come close to fitting them in there foist.

 

somebody FG's 2 10" momo's into the spare tire well. I wanna see how this comes out.

 

I'd LOVE to fg the whole trunk, although I think Imma just go 'stealth' route and just have them rear firing, with the distroblock, x-overs, and amps all showing on the bottom.

 

Ideally, an irregular geometry should be used. The worst shape is a cube. This is because of resonance effects. I use a couple of different pieces of software when designing bass cabs; the last free-standing labyrinth cab I made, did +7dB at 40Hz. The trunk is plenty big enough to make an excellent bass enclosure.