This is my new system im going to have in my maxixma.

2 pairs---SLC 265 + Arc Audio KAR600.4
Image Dynamics IDMAX12-D2 + Arc Audio KAR900.1D

SLC 265 $220 each 2 pairs ($440)
KAR600.4 $450
IDMAX12-D2 $350
KAR900.1D $ 390
Total $ 1630

What do you guys think?? is it good, couse i think its going to be a damn good system, and it's going to have a nice SQ.


Any and all input is welcomed

 

Awesome choices.

 

thank you

PS: i was on ebay and i got 1 pair of old KICKER Competition Subwoofer 250RMS i think, i used to have just one, back in the day and i loved them. i wanna see if i can make a home made box, put this subs in. I wanna see if people can hear the bass from 2 blocks away lol

 

I think you will love it.

 

the kickers?

couse this is the link


http://cgi.ebay.com/Pair-of-12-Kicke...QQcmdZViewItem

 

I had the old Freeair version .

 

nope...so you switched from an ID max to 2 kickers?

 

Nah... you need to find the ones with the gold lettering. C-12's. I'll pay BIG BUCKS for these if you got them.

 

You have TWO pairs of components?
Where...and WHY?

 

wow those kickers look really old.... I got some comp vr 10's for sale (the new style)..

 

What head unit?

Sounds like a nice setup. I'd add some dampening. Personally, I'd ditch the rear speakers or at least run them off head unit power and biamp the front speakers, especially if you got one of the head units with a crossover and EQ (the Eclipses or the new Pioneer)....then you could go active and have a lot of control over each speaker (and fade out the rear speakers once you figure out it sounds better withtout them).

Should sound nice!

Enjoy

 

seriously? lol a C-12 is the first sub I ever bought way back in the day. Sold it to a friend and it's been in his Maxima for years now with no problems.

 

Good quality stuff all around, should make for a nice sounding setup indeed if you tune it well. Congrats, and dont skimp out on dampening.

Nice choice on the KAR600.4, very few around here have tried that beast-its a hell of an amp.

 

Is there a reason you went with two comp sets? Should have just got coax's for less or a set of midbass for the rear.

 

is the Kar 900.1d gonna be enough for that sub? cause if it is I might copy you

 

Oh yes, IDMax's get down with less than that. That amp will push it VERY hard.

 

what if i wanted to buy a d4 and run it at 2olms?
how much wattage do most people feed their idmax?

 

Oh no, Im going to have the IDMAX in the car, I got the kickers just for the fun of it. im going to meke a box for the 2 kickers, i wanna see how it sounds. plus the kickers were cheap.

 

these were good speakers. Kicker used to make good sub back in the day, but not i think its all crap, or maybe better brand of subs are out now. And kickers sound like crap.

 

I have 2 pairs of components couse i have one in the front doors and 1 in the rear doors. I got 2 pairs of components couse If i want to watch a movie in the car it will help .

 

Thanks alot,

the head unit i dont know wich one to get, i looking for a flip out, but i dont know which one. I was thinking about this one
Alpine IVA-D310 or Clarion VRX935VD or anything better.
Im going to get a 2 channel crossover, and maybe a EQ
And yes im going to use a dampening in the trunk, for the sub.

You know when sometimes you going down the steet and you see a car with a system stop next to you in a red light and you can hear the trunk making more noise than the sub. its not the sub making these nise its the metal on the hood. i dont want my car to sound like that, lol that sounds cheep

 

Guys thanks alot for the input

 

650 rms @ 2ohms will still drive that sub mighty nice.

All the 1000rms power ratring on the IDmax is its 'thermal' rating. It doesnt NEED that power to reach full excursion or provide the best sound quality.
I know people that run as little as 300-400rms to IDMAX 12's and get very good output out of sealed boxes. With double that you should be pretty happy given the sub is in the right box.

 

hey Manny how are you new subs sound?? i bet it sound nice.
BTW, how much are these subs?

 

would it be wiser to get a d4 and run it at 1olm or a d2 and run it at 2olms??

 

d4 in parallel=2 ohms. dual 2 in parallel= 1 ohm.

 

I think you mean the other way around...
DVC4=2ohm or 8ohm
DVC2= 1ohm or 4ohm

I personally would run that sub and give it 650rms in a 1.25-1.5cu/ft sealed box. If you are craving its best output, I'd experiment with a 1.75cu/ft vented enclosure. At 900rms you are not doubling the power to be able to hear an immense difference in output vs 650rms, and you are feeding it higher distortion and losing damping . I know others would probably feed it the full nut, but I dont think its necesary to push the thermal limits if your main objective is SQ with very nice volume levels. You chose one driver, not two- so if you want be loudest it could be, i'd look into tuning (enclosure type) before risking damaging the sub for a minimal SPL increase. IDMax is not quite the kind of sub you want to blow, they are scarce, production is slow and so is their repair service.

 

Still breakin in, still listening critically. I have to say that they are without a doubt the amongst the finest sounding subwoofers I have heard to date. As far as detail and tonal cues, my bass line is the most realistic and authentic I've heard in car-as I expected. Their attack and decay is superb. It makes for great sound reproduction, however not a choice for those that like to pile on the bass boost/gain and expect the transducer to move alot of air and deliver overly thick bass- its strength is being very true to recordings, without exageration..

 

FYI I ran @ 450 to 500 watts to a single IDMAX (actually was running that with a few setups, I've been through the v1, v2 and now v3's) sealed and it was just fine.

Now running the same to each sub in a pair but in an IB setup, so I loose some SPL going IB, but still is fine. As Manny said, you don't need anywhere close to 1k watts for a single IDMAX, though It'll take it. I remember when an ID team member near me got one of the first IDMAX v1's made and he competed in the under 600 watt class (for the WHOLE SYSTEM)...he had 150 watts to each max and you'd be shocked how hard they hit.

PS. I recommend (for my tastes) a little bit bigger than the 1.3 cubic feet per sub for the Max...like 1.5 or 1.6...helps on the low low low end of things. I have a nice 1.3 that I'd sell ya for a Max if you'd like though.....

edit...nevermind, just saw you're in Cali....

 

Fans of this sub. Just a FYI. There's one of these models but an 18"...yest thats right....18" er for sale on elite right now.


http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showt...hreadid=130200

Seller is reliable and it's dirt cheap. You're making me want to pick it up just to play. I Love big speakers.

 

I run my max sealed at with about 1200wrms @ 1 ohm. However I have tried it at 4 ohms agiving about 500wrms and she still came to life nicely. I wouldn't recomend going over 1000wrms though, I'm just using a cheaper hifonics bx1500d that I got very cheap locally until I invest in a nicer sub amp. Also my sub gains were set using an oscilloscope so I know theres no clipping. I wouldn't do it any other way if your using a cheap amp like I am, however I'm sure that Arc will do a great job however you set the gains.

 

Nice, Thanks how much $ is it???