Shadow

iTrader: (15)

I'm posting this here because I figured you guys are a little more versed on the electrical system than the guys in the regular forums. So I hope you can help, my car is undrivable until I get this sorted out.

Basically, my car is not charging. The alternator, battery, alternator harness are all brand new. But for some reason, there is no longer any current going across the AltS fuse. When the ignition is in the on position, from my understanding, there should be current going across the Alt S line because that is signalling the alternator. And I know there was before this problem happened. But I just tested it, and with the car on, there are 0 amps going across that circuit.

All of this began with the POS Can Am alternator. It shorted out on me several times and kept blowing the battery fuse. The final time it did it, I hit redline at which point the car shut off and then came back to life and kept running. This had happened before, so I got home in a hurry and my suspicions were confirmed, the batter fuse had blown again. But everything else seemed to be alright electrically.

So I swapped out the Can Am for a standard rebuilt alternator along with new battery and fuse. The first time I started the car, I noticed the battery light had come on. If I revved it up, it went away. And when the car was running, the voltage was only 11.8V. Everyone told me this was a defective alternator, so I had it warrantied and swapped in a new one. Now I crank it up, no battery light, but still 11.8V at the battery when the car is running.

I checked all the connections, and they appear to be in order. Then I checked the current at the fuse, and it's 0. So I'm wondering where to look now. Could the alternator shorting out like that last time burned something out on the signal side? Everything electrical on the car works with the exception of the charging system. The car will run, drive, etc. Just not for long since it's running on battery only. AC works, all lights work, radio, power windows, etc.

This is bugging the crap out of me and I'm out of ideas. Is there a relay somewhere in the system I'm not aware of?

FWIW, never ever buy a Can Am. It is the biggest piece of junk ever. It's nothing but a modded Ford alternator that doesn't even fit on our cars. I could have saved money and just bought an aftermarket alternator for a Ford SHO, it's not like Can Am did anything to modify it for our cars. It would have been about 1/2 the price of what I paid for the Can Am. You have to splice all the wiring and totally rig the mounting points. And mine shorted out internally twice, both times at redline.

Shadow

iTrader: (15)

Forgot to mention, I tested the voltage at the alternator charging wire (the thick one), and it's 0. That's just not right when the key is in the on position and the rest of the system is at 12V.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

I'd imagine that you're only going to get current out of the big wire when the engine is running? Because then the alt pulley is getting spun, creating current?

That's what I've got for now, I'm going to re-read and continue to think about this.

reygarcia

iTrader: (9)

now, when you say on? is the car running or is the key just turned to the on position?

the car has to be running for the alternator to work (provide a charge to the battery).

Shadow

iTrader: (15)

Key in the on position. From what the alternator guys told me, when the ignition is on, the big wire should show 12V because that's what the rest of the system is at. When the car is running, it should show 14V or somewhere around there. Also, when the ignition is on, the AltS wire should be live and current should be going through it. At least that's what the manufacturer is saying when I called them for troubleshooting.

The one thing I am sure of is that when the car is running, the alternator is not on as system voltage is only 11.8V with the engine running.