Easy way to tell if a subwoofer is cooked?
Easy way to tell if a subwoofer is cooked?
It is a 4ohm sub, but when I attach a multimeter to it, I get 3.5ohms.
Solobaric S10c round 10" sub. I've had this thing for several years (since new) and have never been able to get it to sound good. It's in a 0.61cf sealed box and I had 500w RMS going to it just recently. It would start to clip at high volume. Sounded like a clapping sound. I went back to my Kicker Comp C10 in a sealed 1.25cf with same amp and it sounds great.
Solobaric S10c round 10" sub. I've had this thing for several years (since new) and have never been able to get it to sound good. It's in a 0.61cf sealed box and I had 500w RMS going to it just recently. It would start to clip at high volume. Sounded like a clapping sound. I went back to my Kicker Comp C10 in a sealed 1.25cf with same amp and it sounds great.
Originally Posted by nismos14
A sub never tests at the same resistance.
Originally Posted by nismos14
You can send me the solo and Ill have a look for u.
Think maybe I had the gains turned up too much on the amp?
First, they are very picky about the airspace. You say you have it in .61. Is that before or after sub displacement? IIRC they are to be put in .66 and no smaller. I have heard them sound great in .80. You have plenty of power, I would suggest trying to regain and build the correct box. You are choking the sub out right now.
Oh, and if it were blown, it would either scratch (vc scrubbing on the gap walls) or not move at all.
Also, it is normal for a coil to read "close" to the stated Ohm load. My TDX's, which are dual 4ohm vc's, read 3.78 on both coils.
Oh, and if it were blown, it would either scratch (vc scrubbing on the gap walls) or not move at all.
Also, it is normal for a coil to read "close" to the stated Ohm load. My TDX's, which are dual 4ohm vc's, read 3.78 on both coils.
Originally Posted by filtor1
First, they are very picky about the airspace. You say you have it in .61. Is that before or after sub displacement? IIRC they are to be put in .66 and no smaller.
I'd love to get this thing working since I would like to keep as much trunk space as I can. I already custom mounted the amp into the rear driver side wheel well and put a carpeted cut out over it. Took no trunk space to do that.
Originally Posted by nismopc
Kicker specs state if pushing up to 350w, use 0.66cf, but if using up to 450w, use 0.60cf. I built it as a 0.61cf with a 500w rms amp and that is without subwoofer. So it actually is probably closer to 0.58cf or so. That's most likely my issue.
I'd love to get this thing working since I would like to keep as much trunk space as I can. I already custom mounted the amp into the rear driver side wheel well and put a carpeted cut out over it. Took no trunk space to do that.
I'd love to get this thing working since I would like to keep as much trunk space as I can. I already custom mounted the amp into the rear driver side wheel well and put a carpeted cut out over it. Took no trunk space to do that.
Thta would be the route I would go. New box. Try doing a .8 cf box. I think it will suit your situation best. Let us know how it turns out.
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